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Electric vacuum pump?


joberlee
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If the check valve to the heating controls goes bad every time you go into boost the vents go to full defrost , no matter where they are set at.

That must be my problem then.. It gets annoying when you hammer it and lose the cool air that's blowing on you. :lol:

 

 

Your problem is the rubber vacuum line T down below the cruise control area is leaking, or maybe a line there cracked. Very common problem, all those who bought my chip received a 9-page instruction book that detailed this problem, and a good percentage of owners found they had a problem or soon to have a problem as the rubber T was pretty dried out and crumbling. I had this problem on my TSTE but (only one I heard like this) it was that the check-valve down at that T was installed backwards :shock:

 

Jeff M

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:lol: i could see how a stiffer spring in a PCV valve could work better than "PVC" (plastic pipe?) haha. oh the PCV system....defiately something i need to work on with my GTS :roll: i think i might get a nice catch can from ATP. blow-by sucks :(

 

If you read my other post, maybe some more insight. The spring is supposed to only regulate while the engine is under a vacuum, then "regulate†more as the load increases closing at some point such as when dealing with a boosted intake source on our setup. Too stiff of a spring and we blow into the crankcase when boosted, its tricky to play with all of this, real fun when messing with the dual PCV setup on the SyTys :shock: Catch-can is the answer to all concerns about oil going into the combustion chamber 8).

 

Jeff M

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If the check valve to the heating controls goes bad every time you go into boost the vents go to full defrost , no matter where they are set at.

That must be my problem then.. It gets annoying when you hammer it and lose the cool air that's blowing on you. :lol:

Mine was doing that too when I bought the car. With some help from Jeff, and a little persistence, and nosing around other W-bodys in the shop, I got mine the way it is supposed to be.

I drew up a diagram for someone else here, but I'll post it again, maybe it will help some people. This is what they should look like, I poked around several W's to try to get all of the routing correct and such

scan0001s.jpg

Any "T" would indicate a t fitting, or split in the line.

The Jewish Dradel (sp?) looking things are the vacuum check valves pointing in the correct direction.

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So.. the PCV valve will be there but not hooked to anything? For the love of god why? All the pressure that builds up in the crankcase has to go somewhere, if it can't get sucked out through the PCV valve, then it's forced out of the breather and you end up with a freakin mess of oil in your airbox or around the engine.

The mess of oil would still happen regarless. Thats why when you take apart a intake manafold...theres like a ton of crud. THe pressure would not build up...it will get sucked by the turbo inlet. The turbo will suck all that bypass gas..and the open PCV will let nice clean air in or just get shut closed..soppsidly. That catch can is a good idea. Or I will clean up my check valve/PCV setup.

THe horror of my turbo ford is that I would find the oil dipstick two inches off the tube and oil all over the place after a few full boost blast. Now on the 3.1..that doen't seem to be the problem since it seems that this engine has better venting inside the block(I had to test it out leaking to make sure). So even if 1lb of pressure builds inside the oil pan...it would still vent out the breather. Turbo fords seem to have oil return holes that only serve that purpose.No venting...so when the PCV leaks...out goes the dip stick. NOW on my 3.1...If I leak one gram of air..the turbo had to work that much harder. Im greedy. :twisted:

 

Thanks for the info.

Heres a pic of my mess(getting everything cleaned up during "REDs" install). Notice the brake booster check valve and the angled PCV... :lol: . What a mess. Getting everything tucked in, cleaned up, and organised. Getting a IC in there too. Mind you this was my "TUNE" phase. Like I'll finish tunning :roll: .

Picture3001.jpg

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The pcv valve goes in the rear valve cover, the front grommet is for the breather tube or filter. If the pcv valve is angled it WILL leak, that's why is goes flat in the rear cover, the hose running under the intake basically holds it in place. Jeff M covered this a few entries ago.

 

Anybody have an answer on my transmission modulator vacuum question? Why would it need to run off of an engine vacuum source if it would be getting no vacuum signal at all when under boost? (check valves vents the boost)

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The pcv valve goes in the rear valve cover, the front grommet is for the breather tube or filter. If the pcv valve is angled it WILL leak, that's why is goes flat in the rear cover, the hose running under the intake basically holds it in place. Jeff M covered this a few entries ago.

:bash: :mrgreen: :lol: I know ha.

I was aware that MY PCV leaked (my test)..so I routed the PCV in front and used a BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK Valve that won't let the PCV see boost at all..it will just let the PCV suck air in to the manafold (triple tested at 10psi..no leak). I will keep my setup..but I will just clean it up and put the PCV back in back..but with the Check valve in place still.

 

The answer to your trans qs is that the modualator needs to see the "load" of the engine. HIGH vacume will make the trans think its at idle or part throttle/cruse. THis means no line rise. Smoth shifting. At no vacume..the trans thinks its at WOT or high load. Line rise..firmer shifting.

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That really doesn't make any sense to me. Isn't the TGP trans just a beafed up version of a regular 3.1/ 2.8 N/A trans? If so, it would want to see vacuum all the time, right? I must be missing something here. None the less the vacuum pump is getting installed, in the trunk i'm thinking, to run the cruise, heat controls, etc.

 

Anyone remember the part # for those check valves, or have one they can sell me?

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