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Nick1234

Drop the subframe or pull the motor to change transmission

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I have to get a new tranny unfortunetly. I could not get a loan for a new car so im sol. Now originally i was going to pull the motor, but tonight a a guy i see at work here and there said i should drop 1/2 the subframe (when looking at the motor from the front, the right back L shape) and then unbolt the tranny and take it out there. Is that legit or no?

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Guest TurboSedan

i've never dropped the cradle to remove an engine/transmission but some people prefer to do it that way. it just looks alot harder to do it that way IMO but i really can't say since i haven't tried it.

 

i've always used a hydraulic cherry picker and pulled it up and out the top. the hard part is just pulling the axles out first but even that really isn't too hard.

 

DSC01376.JPG

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pull both at once from above. unless you got a lift, the sub-frame method is a royal bitch.

 

 

Heres a tip for you guys, ziplock bags are your friend when doing this sort of work. put your bolts in them and lable each bag so you know what bolts came from where.

 

Its also a lot better if you drain all of your fluids ahead of time instead of letting shit run every where when you pull you engine and trans out.

 

be sure to label every wire and hose you disconect with masjing tap so you know where it goes. Getting just one hose or wire off can severly screw with the way your car runs.

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When i put my new 3.4 in we were gonna yank from the top but out hoist took a shit. So we ended up jacking t he car sky high and just dropping the cradle tranny motor and all. It was actually easy IMO. Going back in wasnt to bad either.

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Guest TurboSedan

Heres a tip for you guys, ziplock bags are your friend when doing this sort of work. put your bolts in them and lable each bag so you know what bolts came from where.

 

good idea. i'm a little different; i always reinstall the bolt or nut after i remove the part. for example: after removing the exhaust manifolds i will screw the bolts back into the cylinder head.

 

also, i prefer to take digi-pics of hoses instead of labeling masking tape.

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damn it, now im really in a pickle. If i do pull the motor though i can throw a underdrive pulley on it. I want the less work route.

 

Now what good would an underdrive pulley do, aside from increasing your chances of both alternator burnout as well as engine overheating?

 

All to gain maybe a quarter horsepower? Doesn't seem worth it to me.

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Underdrive pulley makes a difference...I don't see that as a good reason to pull the motor. Remember if you drop the subframe (completely) the front suspension and everything will come with it.

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Underdrive pulley makes a difference...I don't see that as a good reason to pull the motor. Remember if you drop the subframe (completely) the front suspension and everything will come with it.

 

The UD pulley is such a minimal gain it's not worth the money. IMO And if you have a kickin stereo don't do it. however it is pretty easy to do on the z34.

 

you can drop the sub frame without taking the suspension......the struts, brakes or any of that need to leave the car. Just seperate the cv's thats what i eneded up doing.

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Guest TurboSedan

i'm having a hard time believing it's easier to take the engine and/or transmission out the bottom...

 

am i the only one here who pulls them out the top? it seems really easy to me. pulling the axles out isn't hard.

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from what i understand i only have to remove 1/2 the subframe, which is the L shape on the drivers side rear, and then unbolt the tranny and all and she will slip right out. I just need to support the motor

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i just removed the engine/trans and whole assembly from a 92 euro 3.4L i ended up cutting the tranny cooler lines and fuel lines, so it may not be the same for you, i didnt need those parts, i did alteast unbolt the a/c lines.

 

i removed the whole assembly at a u-pull-it in 4 hours using hand tools and crank jacks.

 

if i ever do it again, its all coming out the bottom again, very easy to do, i even removed the master cylinder and the radiator.

 

oh just to rub it in some of you guys faces, the whole assembly only cost $200 with 115k on it and ran excellent.

 

matthew

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from what i understand i only have to remove 1/2 the subframe, which is the L shape on the drivers side rear, and then unbolt the tranny and all and she will slip right out. I just need to support the motor

 

Thats right. i have worked with my friend and his dad (who owns a tranny shop) and have seen many a tranny come out of FWD vehicles (Mostly Fords and Chryslers). depending on the car, it will probably take about 1/2 an hour to remove and 3/4 to put back in.

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from what i understand i only have to remove 1/2 the subframe, which is the L shape on the drivers side rear, and then unbolt the tranny and all and she will slip right out. I just need to support the motor

 

Thats right. i have worked with my friend and his dad (who owns a tranny shop) and have seen many a tranny come out of FWD vehicles (Mostly Fords and Chryslers). depending on the car, it will probably take about 1/2 an hour to remove and 3/4 to put back in.

 

Since you have to take everything off and put everything back on dont you think it would take more that a couple hours?

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Since you have to take everything off and put everything back on dont you think it would take more that a couple hours?

 

Yea, but this is a tranny expert who has done this several times a day for over 15 years. And this is just to do a direct swap, without any major fuck ups. ie. breaking bolts.

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