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A friend of mine bought this off of Ebay and wanted to share it with everyone. Pretty cool historical information of the car's development.

My version of the front brakes looks like this Disc 300mm Opel Astra-J GM 13502051 Caliper 2-piston 45mm Opel Antara / Chevrolet Equinox GM 96625936 - left GM 96625937 - right my version is on the left 1,5gen - on the right Use stock 16inch Wheel The mileage on this version is about 30,000 miles System without abs, stock master cylinder

x2 on that, but, IMHO I wish they could have made the 2 doors with door handles in the door and not in the B-Pillar. These handles are nothing but headaches. And, the Verts would not have needed a basket handle (?) I'm needing to replace my LH Door handle. Again.

For once I condone a thread being resurrected 22 years after the fact.

It took me 22 years but I finally did do that manual swap

Like the title says, I am a new member now, but I was a fairly regular member here around 15-20 years ago. My screen name at that time was Regal_GS_1989. I originally owned an 89 Regal GS coupe, a 92 Cutlass International Coupe, and finally a 2000 Regal Sedan. Life got busy, I stopped posting regularly, and the 2000 was sold off about 10 years ago for something newer and more family friendly. Time has marched on, and I am now in a position where I have the time and resources to be able to own a “weekend” vehicle. As luck, or possibly fate would have it, this beauty quite literally fell into my lap at the perfect moment… A 92 Regal GS Coupe. Black, Grey leather interior, low milage, One owner, garage kept its entire life, ordered new with every option box checked off…save for the sunroof. It’s truly worthy of the term survivor, and it’s exactly how I would have ordered one myself back in the day. Gotta say…it feels sort of strange to be back here posting again about a 1st gen coupe…but I can get used to that I am also surprised at how many screen names I still recognize as well!

I know I have one NOS in my my Parts Stash, and theres another member wanting to buy some parts out of that box... I just gotta find it in my garage.. Kids... Dont hoard stuff.. When you want something, you will NEVER find it!

Update. the 9.6121 pads work perfectly. I sprayed them down with silicone during install and not a peep or a squeak out of anything.

I have an f40 trans from an 07 g6 GT as well as a 2006 monte carlo lz9 3900 and will be doing a swap over this winter I will update with details as it goes along

It's been a while since I've logged in. I was more of a lurker back in those days... But I'm glad to see the forum is still up and operating!! Happy New Year Everyone!!

That's OEM m'boy.....no muffler shop involved, the GT coupes that were fitted with the dual exhaust, & the STE's were fitted with that small left side muffler. It was done that way to get needed clearance under the floorpan, you notice that the left side floorpan has no heatshield in place to protect the fuel filler hose & the evap lines, but the right side does have a heatshield. That small muffler is fitted with a strap-on flimsy heat deflector that does literally nothing. If you toss the original rusted out mufflers don't toss the trumpets, keep them, those are near to the point of being unobtanium.

Also of note it looks like this car has the half pop up headlights that this clay model had as well, though it looks like they are taped shut possibly? Ignore the filename, definitely not from 1988.

The automotive news show motorweek holds marathons for their older seasons on Youtube and one of the episodes they played had this spy shot of a Grand Prix prototype that I haven't seen anywhere else. I wonder if they still have the picture in their archives.

I posted this on Reddit and was told to come over here Someone is giving me their 1995 Regal GS that's been sitting for a few years after her husband passed. She's older so hard to know if her memory of timing is right. The battery is dead and the tires look deflated. It's only got ~100,000 miles on it. I'm planning on getting it towed straight to the mechanic, but also wondering if I can just replace the battery, put some air in the tire, and drive it home first or would that just cause more problems? I don't have indoor marking so the car will have to stay outside and endure the winter

Lowered the cutty and got her running on 15 psi of boost. Thinking of taking her up to brainard raceway in September and gettin some runs in

Found on a Pontiac forum.

If you care about originality and how the motor looks to be correct for a 1991 LQ1 car, you would want to stay within the 91-92 model year. You can use a 93 motor as well but the dipstick and tube is the only part that is a lot of work to swap over. 1991-1992 Lumina Z34, (standard with the LQ1). 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4, (standard with the LQ1). 1991-1992 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, (standard with the LQ1). SE, GT, STE trim, (when optioned with the LQ1). 1991-1992 Cutlass Supreme coupe or sedan, (when optioned with the LQ1). ANY W body that has an X in the 8th place of the VIN will have the LQ1. Now...if you don't care about how correct the motor looks in the engine bay, you can go outside the 91-93 year range. The 94-95 motors will work but you would have to do some swapping over of parts to make it look correct. Some things are easy, some are not. The 96-97 LQ1's are dramatically different in appearance and functionality/engineering. They will get you more power but again, lots of internal and mechanical differences. These motors are also interference compared to the NON interference motors from 91-95. If you have any other questions, please ask us or you can PM me personally as I've gone in depth with these motors during my cars restoration efforts.

You know, the ps2 is actually more useful then you’d think, I put one in the GTP and it’s actually quite fun to mess around with while I’m waiting for someone or whatever. i agree with Chris. Leave it how it is, this car has such a huge legacy around here, hell if I had the money and you were selling it I’d so buy it, of course, IF

I can't really say. I've done it both ways from a fully functioning factory CD deck to a early 00's era 1.5 din Pioneer and period correct components. I see it both ways, sure pure stock is great and all but I kinda like when cars are a product of the time they were built in as well or even a homage to that time. I mean how many custom cars of that era still have original PS2s integrated into the dashboard As for your specific car, likely a member here would want to buy it and would probably want to continue or at least keep the vision you had for it. I say clean it up, and take some new pictures of it out and about, it was one of my favorite cars when I joined here back in 2004. Still is.

I would offer this cautionary story if you plan to build a ground pounder as they are called! I can not speak about all FWD’s as I have not built the suspensions of all manufacturers, but of all GM & the like there is a serious issue with McPherson strut/knuckle suspension vehicles, especially when it comes to building an aggressive handling suspension. This is due to the illogical application of the wheel bearing design! In a traditional rear wheel drive the bearings are installed on a traditional spindle with two tapered roller bearings. This design can not fail, I.E. the wheel falls off! Other than to have a bearing go bad, there is little else to occur beyond stranded! As it would be virtually impossible, due to bearing failure, for the wheel to come off! That is not the case with a FWD! The rear hub bearings are held in place by bolts that thread into the knuckle. Which pushes the wheel hub into the knuckle. The wheel obviously bolts to the hub. If the hub bolts that are threaded into the knuckle fail for any reason, the hub has nothing to keep it in the knuckle, or the wheel on the car! This was such the case for me! Fortunately I caught my problem before it became a dilemma or catastrophe. When I built this suspension many years ago I built everything new from the ground up, including hub bearings. They were done more than correctly! The fit to the knuckle was a little tighter than factory & the torque was 5 pounds more. And yes it has taken nearly 20 years to raise its head, but that’s only about 15,000 miles. So it went like this. For the last half of last summer & most of this past summer every time I would make a hard, I.E. aggressive right turn I would get this rattling noise from the left rear that kind of sounded like decelerating exhaust while in the cornering sequence. Straight forward driving it seemed quiet. Over & over again I would check & recheck, exhaust, brakes, tire rub, suspension clearance, suspension component torque, etc., but nothing! It drove me nuts, because I knew something was wrong. I took out the back seat pulled the access plate to the fuel pump. Now it appeared more metallic then. Took it on the freeway & now I would hear a intermittent hard metallic crack. That was it, I knew I needed to put it up in the air & go through the whole back suspension piece by piece, oh great! Well I didn’t have to go far. Removed left wheel, caliper, rotor & bingo! There it was! Looking through the access holes of the bearing hub tire mounting flange was a hub mounting bolt. Loose & bent. I replaced it & checked the torque on the other 3 bolts. All were loose! I check the other side. One needed re-torque slightly, the rest were good. My take on this is this. The hub bearing mounting setup is poor at best, but the front is better than the back. The front use 3 larger bolts mounted from the back. This is better because in hard cornering, the loaded wheel, this places the bolts in compression & the bearing receives more of a angular vertical load. So while this is far less than optimal, it’s by far better than the back. On the other hand the back is abysmal! In a hard corner the rear load wheel has a similar load as the front, but the bolts are a third of the diameter & they’re being stretched & the following wheel is also being stretched because they hold the bearing hub from the front. I have a new design for these that I am building this winter. I will share it with you folks so if you chose you’ll be able to incorporate it as well. This design will be more in the vain the a spindle type attachment that will have a means to be a fail safe design that would prevent this type of bolt failure. This post is to make anyone who wished to do any of the aggressive modifications I’ve done aware of the possibility. I wouldn’t think you would see this type of issue in a non modified vehicle. I have no doubt that the aggressive nature of the Indian’s suspension is the reason for the occurrence. When you’ve increased the track width by a foot, stiffened the suspension components so they transfer power effectively to the ground were it belongs & you actually use it in the manner you built it for; it’s not surprising! What is surprising is that any head engineer would let such a flawed design make it to production! Let alone prevail for decades & hundreds of thousands of vehicles. The simplest of design change would have kept the possibly of the catastrophic failure like the wheel coming off, should have been the mind set no matter how unlikely. I will follow up with this shortly.

Don't know if this will help...I just wanted to be part of the conversation. My STE's system.

When I win the Mega Millions I'm going to produce replacement door handles that don't break. If you would like to support me in this endeavor of spending tons of money on lottery tickets please write me a check.

I honestly believe that you're *overthinking* this situation. these 2 are found on Amazon, the *781* is priced $8 more than the *761*. They cosmetically appear to be identical except for *what I see* the park return lever being a *new* item on the *761* vs a *used reman* item on the *781*, there were no piston dia changes '88 thru'93. As for ACDELCO themselves, I don't feel that they will supply you with an item that will outlast another rebuilders product & much of what ACDELCO supplies comes from Asia or possibly Mexico, I personally lean towards Cardone for my *reman* items. They are American. This leads me to my next question....what has happened to the current caliper other than a piston seizing up or a fluid leak that you feel it is necessary to replace it?

https://web.archive.org/web/20161019020737/http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html I did find that.

Same, I'd rather put that money down for brand new OEM style tailights.

I thought this was the W-Body old folks home...

Update, I ended up finding a drivers window with the part attached. The only way to get my hands on it was to offer some serious coin to a gent that was trying to sell his 95 without any luck. He ended up pulling the drivers rear window for me also; if anyone is in need. If I plan to keep my Olds, I'll probably just take his whole car for parts as he only wanted 1k for it. At the time, I didn't bother as it was over 800km's away and I didn't want to invest in the tow. FYI, it's a heck of a little job to get the glass out without damaging anything. There are a few parts that (when disassembling) are very likely to be damaged if you don't know the exact process. Even following what little info is in the Service Manuals, the interior door panel is vulnerable to breaking the little molded housings that secure the plastic plugs in place...

Yup...going by memory here and basing it off of my 91 Cutlass coupe. Step one - getting all the screws out of the panel These should all be phillips head screws and the first one will be up top near the outside mirror corner towards the front of the door. There will be another one at the very bottom center of the door. You might have to get low and really look down at the bottom edge of the door panel to see it. The next one will be a for the door handle bezel. You should see it behind the chrome door handle. Once it's removed, pull the door handle where you need it to feed the bezel off of it. Once the bezel is out, you'll have a little bit of a cavity in the door panel now. There might be a big torx bit screw there that needs to come out. I believe this screw holds the door handle THAT YOU PULL THE DOOR CLOSE WITH to a metal support bracket. Just look in that area to be sure. If there isn't one there, there will definitely be one around the armrest pad area...like under it. Just know that there is a big torx bit screw somewhere in those areas, can't remember if it's just one or two. Going back up top, you'll need to pull away the seat belt cover at the top of the panel where the seat belt goes thru the panel. Once that cover is off, you'll see 2 screws there that need to come out. Maybe even one...I've seen GM just using one screw to hold that bezel down, it's hit or miss. That SHOULD be all the screws but double check. Step two - the door panel should now just be held on with plastic tabs, sort of like a Christmas tree looking plastic tab. Using the armrest pad/grab handle...pull it quickly away and it should break free from the door. Not all the way, but you'll just have to give it a quick, snappy, pull to get the panel to come free. If it doesn't, double check those areas where the torx bit screws might be. You'll have to fish the lower part of the seat belt thru the slot in the door to get the panel fully off. It's good to get new Christmas tree plastic tabs as well since some of those tabs might break when you start messing with the door panel. Your local auto parts store should have them. Step three - gently pull your power window/mirror/lock switch up out of the panel. It's held on with some really strong metal tension tabs and you'll just need to take your time and gently pry it away from the panel. I just used my fingers and absolutely make sure your nails are trimmed so that you don't scratch the panel face. Once it's out, you'll see those tension tabs I'm referring too. You'll have to remove the lock tabs for the connectors to the switch, I just use a small flat blade screwdriver. Wiggle the base of the connector out of the back of the switch...they'll be tough to pull as they're really in there. Some pics of when I did this. Disregard the bolt in this pic..it was incorrect and the phillips head screw is the correct one. You should have it as well unless someone before you messed it up or something. This is the door handle bezel. This is the support bracket for the armrest pad/pull handle. This is where that big torx bit screw lives. This is the secondary door handle cover. It will need to come out when you pull the large bezel around the handle off. It just slips out. A view of the door with the panel off for reference. Make sure the doors harness is fastened to the door. You'll have lots of rattling when going down the road if it's not secure.

I promise the only thing you will be hunting me down for on this is pictures. im going to do a rwd conversion, automatic, ls swap, chrome wheels and a killer sound system on this thing! kidding lol I will as meticulously and rabidly restore and preserve to stock condition with utmost cleanliness. My ONLY concern, which Im working with jeremiah on, is insuring it isnt rusty. Jeremiah seems like a fantastic guy. i hate that car discussion is on facebook nowadays. Theres 47 w body groups and then other gm groups etc. I wish this place was what it used to be! Im deeply appreciative of your offer to help I have a pretty open budget for this so am in the market for any/all nice/NOS parts. Stock and perfect are the ultimate end goal. My nerves are really centered around the powermaster 3 and rust. Anything else I should be stewing about? adding a couple of pix of my old w-bodies, my garage now, and an article about a mercury milan i refurbished and sold.