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A friend of mine bought this off of Ebay and wanted to share it with everyone. Pretty cool historical information of the car's development.

My version of the front brakes looks like this Disc 300mm Opel Astra-J GM 13502051 Caliper 2-piston 45mm Opel Antara / Chevrolet Equinox GM 96625936 - left GM 96625937 - right my version is on the left 1,5gen - on the right Use stock 16inch Wheel The mileage on this version is about 30,000 miles System without abs, stock master cylinder

x2 on that, but, IMHO I wish they could have made the 2 doors with door handles in the door and not in the B-Pillar. These handles are nothing but headaches. And, the Verts would not have needed a basket handle (?) I'm needing to replace my LH Door handle. Again.

For once I condone a thread being resurrected 22 years after the fact.

It took me 22 years but I finally did do that manual swap

Like the title says, I am a new member now, but I was a fairly regular member here around 15-20 years ago. My screen name at that time was Regal_GS_1989. I originally owned an 89 Regal GS coupe, a 92 Cutlass International Coupe, and finally a 2000 Regal Sedan. Life got busy, I stopped posting regularly, and the 2000 was sold off about 10 years ago for something newer and more family friendly. Time has marched on, and I am now in a position where I have the time and resources to be able to own a “weekend” vehicle. As luck, or possibly fate would have it, this beauty quite literally fell into my lap at the perfect moment… A 92 Regal GS Coupe. Black, Grey leather interior, low milage, One owner, garage kept its entire life, ordered new with every option box checked off…save for the sunroof. It’s truly worthy of the term survivor, and it’s exactly how I would have ordered one myself back in the day. Gotta say…it feels sort of strange to be back here posting again about a 1st gen coupe…but I can get used to that I am also surprised at how many screen names I still recognize as well!

I know I have one NOS in my my Parts Stash, and theres another member wanting to buy some parts out of that box... I just gotta find it in my garage.. Kids... Dont hoard stuff.. When you want something, you will NEVER find it!

Update. the 9.6121 pads work perfectly. I sprayed them down with silicone during install and not a peep or a squeak out of anything.

I have an f40 trans from an 07 g6 GT as well as a 2006 monte carlo lz9 3900 and will be doing a swap over this winter I will update with details as it goes along

It's been a while since I've logged in. I was more of a lurker back in those days... But I'm glad to see the forum is still up and operating!! Happy New Year Everyone!!

That's OEM m'boy.....no muffler shop involved, the GT coupes that were fitted with the dual exhaust, & the STE's were fitted with that small left side muffler. It was done that way to get needed clearance under the floorpan, you notice that the left side floorpan has no heatshield in place to protect the fuel filler hose & the evap lines, but the right side does have a heatshield. That small muffler is fitted with a strap-on flimsy heat deflector that does literally nothing. If you toss the original rusted out mufflers don't toss the trumpets, keep them, those are near to the point of being unobtanium.

Also of note it looks like this car has the half pop up headlights that this clay model had as well, though it looks like they are taped shut possibly? Ignore the filename, definitely not from 1988.

The automotive news show motorweek holds marathons for their older seasons on Youtube and one of the episodes they played had this spy shot of a Grand Prix prototype that I haven't seen anywhere else. I wonder if they still have the picture in their archives.

I posted this on Reddit and was told to come over here Someone is giving me their 1995 Regal GS that's been sitting for a few years after her husband passed. She's older so hard to know if her memory of timing is right. The battery is dead and the tires look deflated. It's only got ~100,000 miles on it. I'm planning on getting it towed straight to the mechanic, but also wondering if I can just replace the battery, put some air in the tire, and drive it home first or would that just cause more problems? I don't have indoor marking so the car will have to stay outside and endure the winter

Lowered the cutty and got her running on 15 psi of boost. Thinking of taking her up to brainard raceway in September and gettin some runs in

Found on a Pontiac forum.

Seven years later I finally got to it. Life gets in the way sometimes. It was a splice gone bad on the engine side, orange wire C461. DIC and scan data restored.

When I win the Mega Millions I'm going to produce replacement door handles that don't break. If you would like to support me in this endeavor of spending tons of money on lottery tickets please write me a check.

Same, I'd rather put that money down for brand new OEM style tailights.

Update, I ended up finding a drivers window with the part attached. The only way to get my hands on it was to offer some serious coin to a gent that was trying to sell his 95 without any luck. He ended up pulling the drivers rear window for me also; if anyone is in need. If I plan to keep my Olds, I'll probably just take his whole car for parts as he only wanted 1k for it. At the time, I didn't bother as it was over 800km's away and I didn't want to invest in the tow. FYI, it's a heck of a little job to get the glass out without damaging anything. There are a few parts that (when disassembling) are very likely to be damaged if you don't know the exact process. Even following what little info is in the Service Manuals, the interior door panel is vulnerable to breaking the little molded housings that secure the plastic plugs in place...

Yup...going by memory here and basing it off of my 91 Cutlass coupe. Step one - getting all the screws out of the panel These should all be phillips head screws and the first one will be up top near the outside mirror corner towards the front of the door. There will be another one at the very bottom center of the door. You might have to get low and really look down at the bottom edge of the door panel to see it. The next one will be a for the door handle bezel. You should see it behind the chrome door handle. Once it's removed, pull the door handle where you need it to feed the bezel off of it. Once the bezel is out, you'll have a little bit of a cavity in the door panel now. There might be a big torx bit screw there that needs to come out. I believe this screw holds the door handle THAT YOU PULL THE DOOR CLOSE WITH to a metal support bracket. Just look in that area to be sure. If there isn't one there, there will definitely be one around the armrest pad area...like under it. Just know that there is a big torx bit screw somewhere in those areas, can't remember if it's just one or two. Going back up top, you'll need to pull away the seat belt cover at the top of the panel where the seat belt goes thru the panel. Once that cover is off, you'll see 2 screws there that need to come out. Maybe even one...I've seen GM just using one screw to hold that bezel down, it's hit or miss. That SHOULD be all the screws but double check. Step two - the door panel should now just be held on with plastic tabs, sort of like a Christmas tree looking plastic tab. Using the armrest pad/grab handle...pull it quickly away and it should break free from the door. Not all the way, but you'll just have to give it a quick, snappy, pull to get the panel to come free. If it doesn't, double check those areas where the torx bit screws might be. You'll have to fish the lower part of the seat belt thru the slot in the door to get the panel fully off. It's good to get new Christmas tree plastic tabs as well since some of those tabs might break when you start messing with the door panel. Your local auto parts store should have them. Step three - gently pull your power window/mirror/lock switch up out of the panel. It's held on with some really strong metal tension tabs and you'll just need to take your time and gently pry it away from the panel. I just used my fingers and absolutely make sure your nails are trimmed so that you don't scratch the panel face. Once it's out, you'll see those tension tabs I'm referring too. You'll have to remove the lock tabs for the connectors to the switch, I just use a small flat blade screwdriver. Wiggle the base of the connector out of the back of the switch...they'll be tough to pull as they're really in there. Some pics of when I did this. Disregard the bolt in this pic..it was incorrect and the phillips head screw is the correct one. You should have it as well unless someone before you messed it up or something. This is the door handle bezel. This is the support bracket for the armrest pad/pull handle. This is where that big torx bit screw lives. This is the secondary door handle cover. It will need to come out when you pull the large bezel around the handle off. It just slips out. A view of the door with the panel off for reference. Make sure the doors harness is fastened to the door. You'll have lots of rattling when going down the road if it's not secure.

I promise the only thing you will be hunting me down for on this is pictures. im going to do a rwd conversion, automatic, ls swap, chrome wheels and a killer sound system on this thing! kidding lol I will as meticulously and rabidly restore and preserve to stock condition with utmost cleanliness. My ONLY concern, which Im working with jeremiah on, is insuring it isnt rusty. Jeremiah seems like a fantastic guy. i hate that car discussion is on facebook nowadays. Theres 47 w body groups and then other gm groups etc. I wish this place was what it used to be! Im deeply appreciative of your offer to help I have a pretty open budget for this so am in the market for any/all nice/NOS parts. Stock and perfect are the ultimate end goal. My nerves are really centered around the powermaster 3 and rust. Anything else I should be stewing about? adding a couple of pix of my old w-bodies, my garage now, and an article about a mercury milan i refurbished and sold.

LMAO, I meant to post this on another forum discussing old lawnmowers! They dont know what I`m talking about over there either.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I don't get online as much these days. Anyway, that question is hard for me to answer because I can't comment to the expense and value aspect as I just wanted to always do the LS4 swap. I didn't have any real budget or horsepower goal in mind. I simply wanted to do it to prove to myself that I could. If someone is going for straight power vs cost, it would probably be cheapest to turbo a 3800, and blow the LS4 away. But for me, yes, it was 'worth' it to just do it and have it work.

Cam is in, got engine bay cleaned up and wires wrapped a little better, exhaust painted aswell