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Should be 2 or 3 bolts on the seat bottom facing the rear of the front seats. Remove the bottom seat cushion and then you will see the bolts that hold the back seat cushion on.

Locks cycling just means part of the receiver is okay. Doesn't necessarily mean it's receiving a signal correctly. I've had bad ones do that too. Although it's definitely easier to rule it in or out with multiple fobs.

Unfortunately, they are indeed Xmas tree type. I used a standard trim panel puller to remove them. I was able to reuse mine after pulling, but it's possible they lost some strength after pulling.

If it's a coupe, it's where @Black92GS showed a few posts up. If a sedan, on the back deck as @jiggity76 shows. Regal coupes had a much smaller rear deck due to the more vertical backglass. Top is sedan, bottom is coupe.

No problem. Pay attention when ordering a replacement though, as there seems to be different part numbers based on whether the car has column or console shift, and whether it has steering wheel controls. The key fob not working is highly likely to be bad solder joints in the keyless entry module. There is a write up on here about repairing them. Extremely common issue!

That would be the turn signal switch. Not terribly hard to replace, but you do need to pull the airbag, the steering wheel, the clock spring and the lock plate to get to it. Sounds like the Brake shift interlock is acting up. What I can't recall is whether the turn signal switch issue that causes the left/right brake lights to not illuminate correctly also causes issues with the shift interlock not releasing like it should. I'll let someone else chime in regarding that.

Actually its been holding up great. I've got over 20k miles on the swap now over 2 years. Nothing major, a couple ripped cv boots which may be because they were junkyard sourced. I highly recommend adding a HTOB spacer. ZZP sells them for around $50. Sits behind the HTOB and moves it closer to the clutch by 1/4" for earlier engagement and longer life. Aside from engineering the trans mount, the hardest part is getting the clutch pedal mounted and situated. The pedal arm needs to be cut & welded into proper position as well. As far as the mount, the low-profile mount I fabbed up works great. Only modification I made was adding rubber bushings under the nuts at the bottom to further insulate the mount from the frame. On an aluminum subframe, it might have to be done a bit different. Might be able to drill two holes and bolt it in the same way, but I haven't been hands-on with an 04+ subframe so I can't say for sure. I'm not a fan of the modified 4T65E bracket method that requires tubular control arms as the mount sits outside the frame. An extra $650 that could be spent elsewhere. There really are half a dozen ways you could fab up a mount but I can say for sure the one I made does the job. 3/16 steel plate holds up well so far. I have also just finished taking the time to document the changes to the tune that are highly recommended for a manual swap: Idle speeds in-gear changed to match P/N as its going to be wired to be in D at all times now. ( I actually added a toggle switch to change between forcing it in D or P, since P is needed for a crank relearn procedure if you need it) DTC codes changed And finally zeroing out all the auto trans stuff:

Brakes maintenance = experienced personnel

Well…. After going through my 9th 4t65e I wanted to do something different, We had the impala sitting out back, we also had an 06 monte ss out back, and a 07 Grand Prix so I mean, i could have done an ls4 swap, or even shoved and l32 in it and called it a day. But as far as I know the lfx swap was never done before, and I have plenty of time, so I decided that the lfx was to way to go mainly because of how strong the 6t70 has proven itself to be, and the fact that I wanted to modernize the car. I loved how the monte was from the factory but I always wished it was a little bit more modern, now with this entire swap I have gained the stability control + the altogether better traction system, the whole car uses the can-bus now so you can do a few more electronic things in the car, and well, I always have liked dohc v6s and I’ve always liked the dohc v6 sound when they have equal length exhausts so I I just figured it was worth a shot to try the swap so maybe other people could do it in the future too!

I have a 1989 Buick Regal Custom 2.8L V-6. This is my first time replacing the front strut cartridge myself. I just bought the tools on eBay. I need to know, when you remove the strut cartridge, the dealer shop manual says, oil from strut tube using suction device. If the oil has to be removed how much oil has to be removed? Do you ever need to drain the oil with fresh oil? What type of oil do you use? Not motor oil? Sorry for the stupid questions, that’s my only issue I have replacing these. I want to know how much to keep in there and how much to remove. Here is the factory info from my Buick shop manual.

The #50 torx tip is needed to stop the piston shaft from rotating in the shock housing while undoing & tightening up the the retaining nut. As I stated earlier some aftermarket shocks no longer make use of a torx design for the socket interface at the top end of the piston shaft. Spinning the piston shaft with an impact gun is not desirable. Doing so with the outgoing shock is alright but no so with the new shock.

I don't remember having any shift interlock issues when my turn signal switch was bad...but I don't usually put it into gear less than a few seconds after startup and that was about 7 years ago.

I've never been able to SEE the bad solder joints, and I think the glossy conformal coating would probably hide them if there were some. I've always just cleaned off the coating and resoldered the joints anyway. That's always worked. I think most people who have done it had the same experience.

The receivers are mounted up in the back glass shelf area. The upper rear seatback needs to come out...which means the shelf also needs to come out. Then, to get the shelf out, you have to pull the rear quarter glass interior plastics that go around the glass. GM layered these pieces. Here's my 93 Grand Prix STE sedan. It won't be identical, but it will be the same process and in the same location. That black box up against the rear glass...that's the receiver.

Thanks that's helpful as I was wondering why I couldn't find many hits for "multi function" switch. The key fob also doesn't work despite fresh coin batteries. What could I be looking at? Took my elderly father for a ride and he is happy to see a car like this still going!

The car runs great so far. I've driven it back to the previous family to show off that it's still running, which they hare happy to see. One issue is that the tail brake lights do not work, but the third small light on the windshield does. I read some other similar issues, and it sounds like the "multi function switch". I think other places have called it a "combo switch". If I pull the signal switch back slightly, but not all the way to engage highbeam, then the brake lights will work. Does anyone have the particular part model or "proper" name for this part? I'm also seeing that it's call "turn signal" switch. I'm not very car-inclined. I'm assuming is discontinued and hoping there's an aftermarket solution.

Like the title says, I am a new member now, but I was a fairly regular member here around 15-20 years ago. My screen name at that time was Regal_GS_1989. I originally owned an 89 Regal GS coupe, a 92 Cutlass International Coupe, and finally a 2000 Regal Sedan. Life got busy, I stopped posting regularly, and the 2000 was sold off about 10 years ago for something newer and more family friendly. Time has marched on, and I am now in a position where I have the time and resources to be able to own a “weekend” vehicle. As luck, or possibly fate would have it, this beauty quite literally fell into my lap at the perfect moment… A 92 Regal GS Coupe. Black, Grey leather interior, low milage, One owner, garage kept its entire life, ordered new with every option box checked off…save for the sunroof. It’s truly worthy of the term survivor, and it’s exactly how I would have ordered one myself back in the day. Gotta say…it feels sort of strange to be back here posting again about a 1st gen coupe…but I can get used to that I am also surprised at how many screen names I still recognize as well!

It’s been just a little over a year now since I got the Regal…so what better way to celebrate that than with some more recent pictures. Nothing much visually has changed except for the refinished wheels and new tires…which was a fairly large, yet subtle change on its own. My intent is to keep the car as stock as possible, and to keep it up to snuff mechanically to be used as a reliable, fair weather cruiser. And to shake things up…. This is the final picture I ever took of my 89 GS before it was parked for good in summer of 2008.

Saesons greettings all! A fellow member recommended this group so I just joined. Sorry I didn't know about the W-Body group in past years...might have saved me some headaches in repairs, LOL My first w-body was a '91 Grand Prix SE that I got in 1997. It served me well over the years, till I sold it in 2003 and got a '95 GP SE with the B4U package. I'd still be driving it today if the rear suspension/frame hadn't rotted away due to that horrible brine/salt they put on the roads here. Who knows, maybe I'll get another GP someday...I really enjoyed driving that car!

'99 GP is the same suspension platform as the '02..........you'll be SOL

Please post some pictures or a video so we can see what is going wrong?

Are you absolutely positive that there is not a rusted out/broken, brake line, hose or caliper? I know it has low miles but what you describe sounds way more like a break in the system then a failed master Treat it like any other master cylinder, bench bleed it, install it it has a couple extra bleeders on the master, start there and then work from the back to front. a Vacuum bleeder would make it easier.

Hey! Had my beautiful GTP for bit now and I am just wondering on the available for transmission rebuild kits for the MT. I know I remember seeing they were like basically impossible to get a long time ago but does anyone know of any that have been manufactured again? For the record it is the 3.4L DOHC V6 with a 5 speed, coupe, the only option it came in I believe. I would also like to learn some more about it if anyone has some random facts haha.

Hello all you w body guys! Here is my 2003 Monte Carlo with a 3.6 and 6t70 swap! If you guys have any questions feel free to ask!

If I were to guess... the 4T65E in the V8 cars was a pretty tragic weak point so maybe he's tired of cooking those?

Here's the link to the timing belt change I did on 11 January, 2020.

Unfortunately I'm pretty sure things have not gotten any better in the last 5 or so years. Worse at best I suppose.

awesome!

My suggestion to you is to do all you can to stay with a replacement LQ1, if you choose to do otherwise you'll have to deal with the electronic side of the issue. For '91 the trans behind the LQ1 is the 4t60-e, now that may not seem to be much of a concern but the ECM in the car is programmed for the LQ1 & the 4t60-e. You look to drop in another engine of choice & now you have to reprogamme the ECM to accommodate that replacement engine. The mem-cal inside the ECM housing is specific to the LQ1 for that year & that trans.

For replacement bulbs, might I suggest Sylvannia Cool White 194 LED,s they realy brighten it up without overdoing it. These bulbs are not cheap, about $8 each but are much better than those cheap ones you get in a bag.

Also, just a bit of a warning. If a trans fluid/filter change is in the books, it might be a good idea to insist that they use dexron /mercon fluid, instead of DexVI or something like Valvoline MaxLife. You can't get licensed Dexron III these days, so the Dex/Merc fluids that state they are for older GM and Ford vehicles are going to be the closest you can get. I have a 1992 Regal that is fairly low milage (currently under 72k KMs) that still had its original trans fluid in it. It was due for a change, but otherwise everything was functioning as it should. I did a pan drop, changed the filter, and re-filled with Valvoline MaxLife. Got the levels set, and everything seemed great. In short order though, I was dealing with a downshift issue into 1st. Essentially, when the vehicle went into lockup before the trans was fully warmed up, slowing down to the point where 1st would engage resulted in the trans acing as if it were in neutral. Even the increased line pressure in manual 1st. wasn't enough to engage it. You could shift to Neutral and back into Drive though, and it would act exactly as expected, so I simply worked around it and shifted into Neutral while slowing down, then back into Drive just before coming to a stop. The more I dug into the issue, the more I realized that the MaxLife was likely the cause, as older transmissions don't necessarily play nice with the much lower viscosity of MaxLife. I just recently pumped out 4.5 quarts of trans fluid and replaced it with Dex/Merc, and on the first test drive the issue was nearly eliminated. My plan now is to drive it a little bit more, then pump it out and refill again to get as much out as possible. I will be sticking with Dex/Merc from now on for this one.

The lack of cross braces is a series 1 3800 thing. I have yet to see a 1st gen Regal with a series 1 3800 have them. Regals with the 3.1 and 3100s had them, as did the 96s with the series 2 3800. No clue as to why it’s that way though.

Am I the only one who thinks this is way more trouble than it's worth? I know that the first-gen rear calipers have a bad reputation, but it's not deserved in my (admittedly limited) experience. I know that on my '92 and '93 Luminas, the rear calipers haven't given me excessive trouble--at least, not more than any other calipers, and less than typical aluminum-bodied calipers. I have had them apart for cleaning and inspection; and even replaced them with "rebuilt" calipers in desperation, trying to fix a "hard pedal, poor braking power" situation a long time ago. The poor braking was due to failing vacuum power boosters on both vehicles, not the calipers/rotors/pads in front or in back.

There ARE strut cartridges that when replaced, need some oil-bath. Apparently, the W-body ones don't. OR the service manual is wrong. Can you get access to a later-model-year manual?

Step #8 says remove the oil so i removed the oil when I replaced my cartridges. Do whatever you want I don't think it really matters.

The OEM strut has loose oil inside. You'd remove ALL of it to the best of your ability. The replacement cartridge is a different design, that doesn't need oil inside the housing. Remove the oil, drop the new cartridge into the housing, put it together just like the manual says.

You're welcome.

Both engine and tranny are from a 2006 ish impala. The tranny is a 4t65

1991 model year

Maybe this will make it more clear. In these pics, you can see the lift pad and where I have the floor jack, (mine is painted black), positioned to lift up the back of the car. It's basically a formed piece of metal that is designed to be the lift point on the rear axle. As always, you MUST only use the floor jack to lift the car...NOT support it. Please use jack stands or another safe method of supporting the car once it's up off the ground. Jacks are NOT designed to support a vehicle on their own and can fail. Safety is always a priority when working under a car. Please ask for help before you get under your car if you're unsure about anything. Everyone here wants to make sure you're going to be safe!

I did this swap myself and am very happy with it. The 91-93 sliders are a horrid design. Even with the later aluminum slider they seize up. I got my donor parts off a 96 regal and rebuilt the callipers and powder coated them. I bought new rear cables for a 96 as well and used a female threaded coupler to tie the equalizer and right rear cable together. I can’t remember exactly but part #9 was different between the years. To make it work I cut the threaded rod coming out of part #9 in the photo and screwed the coupler onto it and then screwed the right rear cable rod into the other end of the coupler. The coupler is right at the #8 spot in the photo. Works great. You’ll need to replace the callipers, rotors, calliper brackets, get new rear park brake cables, left and right from a 94-96. very easy swap.

If one updates the older caliper to the newer design one must also make use of the later rotor for the 94+ caliper. One cannot mix & match *old* with *new*.

First Gen rear calipers: DO NOT "turn the piston" to wind them back in. This is possible, but it's a waste of effort, and a waste of time. REMOVE the park brake lever (one nut, and washer) Push the piston STRAIGHT IN, (I use a vice-grip C-clamp) the threaded rod spins instead of the piston. Re-connect park brake lever once the piston is retracted. Don't forget to reset the park brake by applying it several times after the rear brakes are reassembled.

I've found a shop that will do the front strut cartridges, and as an added bonus, by sheer dumb luck I located and bought an ADDCO 474 rear sway bar which they will also install. I gave up looking for one of these years ago but while looking for something else on Amazon I stumbled on just one they had in stock. Its now in my garage waiting to be installed. I just placed in another post regarding the front strut tower brace being 2 different 3.4 versions and I was wondering if anyone had ever seen the version wherein it's bent in 2 spots to account for the intake manifold.. I need to get another one of these 3.4 bars as the one on the car now will probably be no good as its mangled up and will more than likely fall apart.

I'll second this. The state of aftermarket parts is such that a quality reman is akin to buying a winning lottery ticket. I want to say in all the hundreds of thousands of miles that I've tracked I want to say I've had one OEM (in my old Bonneville) axle actually get excessive wear and necessitate replacement - which was an aftermarket that turned into me doing them once a year till the third one fell out of the transmission, I then put a junkyard one in of unknown miles and it saw the car to the junkyard at 309k. The other axle was original and I never had to worry about it at any point. When I was way bigger into building W cars I had a pile of axles in varying degrees of disrepair that I would pull from, check for play, re-boot as needed and send never had any issues. 93,000 miles is relatively low inspect the boots, and just re-boot the OEM ones as needed.

Good advice, thanx, that could save a big bill. I can move on to other stuff it needs.

If the boots are good, and they're not making noise...leave 'em alone. They might go well over 200,000 miles if they stay sealed. Once the boots tear, and road-splash gets in, it's anyone's guess how long they'll last. I've had good luck pulling 'em apart, cleaning, and reinstalling fresh grease and new boots.

Need to be able to read the sensors. Need either something like a OTC 2000 with the 92 or 93 GM cartridge or visit Moates.net for an 'ALDU1 and CABL1' plus the TunerPro RT software.

Thanks for all the info! I think I'm going with the black pads and start shopping around for replacement springs. I looked art mine closely and the springs are a bit worn at the ends but I'm also concerned with the cross members holding the springs. Aside from being horribly rusted, there's also some bends and twist in them.

There is no difference between FE1 and FE3 subframes or tie rods, so it doesn't matter what rack you use. I have done this job in a parking lot. The return line is available in the aftermarket but it is very difficult to install with the powertrain in the car because the return line is also a cooler and has like six 90* bends and goes all over the subframe. Use bulk hose rated for power steering or transmission lines. Install a plate cooler if you're concerned. Remove the air box. Seperate the steering shaft after loosening the pinch bolt. A pain. Put a jack under the rear of the subframe. Remove the rear subframe bolts and loosen the front ones. Lower the jack a couple inches. Seperate the outer tie rods from the knuckle. Cut the old power steering lines. Remove the two rack bolts to the subframe. Slide the rack out from behind the wheels. Reverse to install. The steering shaft is very frustrating. It will only fit on one way but it is hard to get to. You may need the inner tie rod tool if you don't have a wrench big enough for the inner tie rods.