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  1. bluecalais79

    Front Dash Speakers

    Thanks for the note. As an update, those speakers in the dash are working. I have one of those dash designs dashboard covers that as it turns out was all but eliminating the sound coming out of those 2 speakers. So, looks like I get to fight that battle another day..............
    3 points
  2. bluecalais79

    Front Dash Speakers

    I highly recommend those covers by Dash Designs. They kill the glare but buy a black one. Also, use some thin strips cut to one inch or so all the way on either side of the dash up by the windshield to hold it down. No need to use velcro anywhere elso, the thing stays put that way.
    1 point
  3. 94 olds vert

    Front Dash Speakers

    I've removed the dash panel in both of my 1st gens at one point in time. I never had an issue with the A pillar clips breaking off. As far as I remember they need to be removed in order to get the dash out. As far I remember removing the top dash panel isn't that hard in these cars.
    1 point
  4. Luminator98

    New member with 98 lumina

    Hi, I’ve just stumbled onto this forum, and i figure I’ll probably need to post here eventually acquired my luminator last year, 2nd owner from a grandma. 70000 (got w 55000)miles. Here’s some pics; thx yall
    1 point
  5. A reman label really muddies the water, so the broadcast code is the one piece that settles it. A logger that connects with the wrong stream can look believable right up until it sends you chasing nonsense.
    1 point
  6. Yep, that tracks. The 7727/7730 confusion trips up a lot of people because the guts and calibration family overlap, but the packaging and mounting are what matter in the W-body. For CuttyBawl’s case I’d still verify the MEM-CAL broadcast code before trusting any ADX/XDF combo, especially with a reman ECM sticker involved. For scanning only, the right data stream/mask matters more than the XDF, so if it’s truly a 1990 LH0 he should be looking at $88 stuff first, not just grabbing A109 because it “sort of connects.” For tuning, yeah, starting from $A1 makes sense if you know what you’re changing, but I wouldn’t send a first-timer down that rabbit hole until the idle fault is sorted mechanically. OBD1 will happily let you chase ghosts all weekend, ask me how I know.
    1 point
  7. 1227727 and 1227730 use the same chips. One is waterproof and used in W bodies and Corvettes. 1990 is the only year to use $88 code mask. 88-89 are $6D. 91-92 is $A1. 93 is $DF. Thats for the 3.1 V6. The most common with all the data code layed out is $A1. I would use A1 to start and modify from there (because I have been tuning these for over 20 years and can do this).
    1 point
  8. carkhz316

    The Holy Grail - Rebuilding the Getrag 284 5TM60

    Thanks for this.
    1 point
  9. 94 olds vert

    New member with 98 lumina

    It's been a while since I've seen one of these out in traffic. These cars were mostly rotted out during the last recession in 2008. I was just thinking if I saw one today it would stand out a lot because of all the crossovers people drive now. Especially a clean one. Most people probably wouldn't know what it was. Welcome to the forum.
    1 point
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