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I don't believe you have an issue that warrants any concern if i'm being honest. I couldn't see the dimming, but I did hear when it took place. What I think is happening there is this: As you're coasting down, the engine cuts fuel and is freewheeling. Once you drop below to a certain speed/RPM, it will switch back to feeding fuel and to the IAC for idle speed control. The PCM is likely cutting the alternator output momentarily at the same time to make the overall transition smoother and to prevent stalling, but this will also result in a drop from charging voltage to battery voltage and then back. Non PCM controlled alternators monitor the voltage and self regulate based on that. PCM controlled alternators have the PCM monitor the voltage and the draw, and can adjust the alternator output as required. It also means they can reduce or cut the output completely in certain states to prevent other issues. If the alternator output is completely cut momentarily, you will immediately drop from charging voltage to battery voltage and then back once the alternator ramps back up. Halogen lighting output and blower speed will change along with this voltage change.

More or less, yes. What matters is where the voltage drop is occurring. If the voltage drop is only at the fuse box itself due to an undersized feed, but the battery is maintaining ~14 volts the entire time, then moving the lights to run directly off the battery will have a positive effect, since they will no longer be subject to the drops affecting the fuse box. However, if the voltage drop is due to the PCM briefly turning off the alternator, or the alternator not yet having caught up to the demand, that drop will be at the battery itself, so it effects everything in the vehicle. Moving the lights directly to the battery wouldn't have an effect there, since they would still be affected by the same drop. In the first video it occurred in conjunction with the AC compressor turning on, which I call normal operation for these cars. My 2000 Regal did that and my parents 97 Lumina always did the same thing. The 2nd video was harder to tell, but it seemingly always happening around the same speed when coasting down makes me think that's when the car is coming out of it's deceleration fuel cut off, and the alternator output is briefly being cut to make the transition back to the IAC smoother. Older vehicles didn't experience this in the same manner, as the alternators weren't controlled by the PCM. Newer vehicles with electronic throttle bodies don't seem to experience this either as the PCM has full control over the throttle itself. I really don't think there is an issue that needs solving. If you want to keep the headlights from showing the effects, you could look at switching to LEDs. The LED chips typically run at less than 12 volts, so they have a voltage regulator to keep things in check. This would prevent them from dimming whenever the vehicle voltage fluctuates slightly. Also, ignore what I was mentioning earlier about the ABS. The ABS kicking in will cause the lights to dim briefly due to the load, but after seeing the driving video, i don't think that's what's happening here.

I don't think that would make a difference here. It's not a headlight specific issue, it's the overall system voltage dropping momentarily and noticeably affecting incandescent/halogen light output and the audible tone from the blower. You can sort of duplicate it by leaving the lights on when you shut the car off. There is a slight but noticeable dim that takes place as the overall voltage drops from ~14 volts to ~12 volts.

Maybe you'll want to look into something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/headlight-conversion-harnesses/product-line/united-pacific-headlight-relay-harness-kits

Okay I will look into it! And are you referring to the post that is on the top of the under hood fuse box? The pics in the forum thats what it looks like. Not the positive battery terminal itself right?

Check how hot the auxillary battery terminal gets...mine would get hot and cause voltage drops until I replaced it...previous owners thought it was just going through alternators. I had one of the zinc ones (and one with the bottom threads stripped so it was had a couple of washers for spacers and what appeared to be a Delco radio post nut as well) and replaced it with brass...common issue on the B bodies too, and it's the same process and part number for replacement. Might not apply on a 2000, though... Replacing the Auxiliary Battery Post | Page 3 | Chevy Impala SS Forum

Please do. That slight voltage sag (dimming/fan speed drop) that took place above when the AC compressor kicked in is 100% normal operation for these cars in my view, and its just a byproduct of how the charging system is programmed to function. It can happen whenever a large electrical load comes on line at low RPM, and It is definitely visible in the headlights when they are on. My 2000 Regal did this all the time, and the factory alternator and the 6 year old battery were still fully functional when I got rid of that car in early 2015.

I'm going to be honest, I don't see an issue there. It cranked just fine, and the dip sounded like the AC compressor kicking on. The slight electrical dip is likely just a product of a slight lag between a large electrical load kicking in and the duty cycle of the alternator being increased adequately to compensate.

I'm going to differ with you on this Kyle....... what OP needs is the necessary A/C piping from a 1st Gen Regal with the 3.8 engine. If you intend on keeping as much as your car is currently fitted with you'll need the a/c compressor manifold hose assembly that was fitted to the 3.8 Regal & a new rebuilt pre 94 compressor. Everything prior to 94 is R12 based, everything post 93 is R134 based. When GM introduced 134 in 94 they changed ALL of the A/C line fittings thread pitch so NOTHING from prior & post can be used together. My suggestion to you is to keep your 92 car all 92, get that old 92 3.8 manifold hose assembly & purchase a new *rebuilt* pre 94 A/C compressor, even the manifold hose assembly changed in 94 because GM redesigned the back end of the compressor housing for 94 so the old manifold hose will not attach to the newer design compressor housing. Purchase yourself a new receiver/dryer as well as a new orifice tube. Go into Rockauto, search 92 Regal, they still house most of what you'll need.

Spoke to someone at Crutchfield yesterday, they are dual wired since the factory speakers came with 2 coils. With the speakers these days having only one coil, I will only need to hook up 2 of the 4 leads. The lead I do not use can just be disconnected at the plug (good thing I had the sense to re-wire the leads with plugs instead of not using them). I went for a set of Infinity speakers this time around and I sure do hope they last longer than the prior ones.

That gear drive actuator you replaced controls hot to cold blend. There is a vacuum switch behind the glove box that sends vacuum to separate vacuum doors to control what vent the air comes from. That black plastic vacuum line that powers the vacuum doors goes through the fire wall between the master cylinder and the strut tower. This is what the vacuum door controller looks like. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14268801&cc=1021374&pt=7036&jsn=531

You should be able to get at both sides of the heater core...return is at the front of the engine, that long steel piping that follows along the right side frame rail that sweeps upwards to the coolant pump manifold, the inlet side is right beside the brake vacuum booster, a short hose that passes overtop of the master cyl reservoir slipping over the steel supply pipe from the bottom of the thermostat housing.

Check where your positive battery cable goes to the fusebox on the drivers side under the hood. It is common for the nut to be loose or the connection to be dirty and cause all sorts of weird electrical issues

The Monte. This was a long time ago and it's putting out less now for sure.

3.5l LZ4 with an F23 in a FWD race car. Port work, WOT-Tech VVT Delete with Big Race Cam Kit. 75mm Throttle Body, Megasquirt MS3X. All credit to Dan @ R&R Motorsports for putting this together and sharing the results.

I just figured it out! Got the GXP brackets and calipers from NAPA. They cut the mounting part off and drilled/tapped new mounting holes.

HERE'S MY CAR AFTER ALL THE VISUAL UPGRADES

1993 3.4 DOHC in an 88 Fiero with a Getrag 282 5-speed. The graph says "Flywheel horsepower" but we set the correction factor to "1.0" which means no correction, so this is at the wheels. The 10ft-lb torque dip corresponds to a bad AFR there; I still have to tune it. Engine details: 1993 3.4 DOHC, balanced and blueprinted... Ok, more details: 91 Beretta iron flywheel (16 lbs), Sealed Power hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts, balanced rotating assembly, .030" overbore, honed with a torque plate, exhaust valve guides tightened up a bit, opened the bottom ring gaps to prevent flutter, gasket matched the lower intake manifold, custom upper intake manifold (shorter runners, direct shot from the TB to the runners), stock throttle body, stock ECM, stock injectors, stock cam timing, 3" cold air intake with K&N cone filter, 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflow cat and Spintech muffler. Pic so you can see the intake setup:

That's the one. It looks like you took care of it with your wiring upgrade though.

And it worked as designed yesterday...