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Well I cant wait any longer for you guys. 23.5 years is a bit long to make a guy hang on. So I just went ahead and got it myself.

Good day, I have been a W body enthusiast since high school 04. In my student parking lot, we had a 93 Gran prix, 94 olds cutlass supreme, 94 cavalier z24, 95 monte, and my lumina z34. These cars were everywhere! My first car was a 94 lumina z34 (still have it). In 2012 I put a 4.9 PFI in it and it is almost complete. I just need to replace the rear suspension and odds and ends. I have a 99 Monte (needs some work), and I just picked up a decent (needs some work) Cutlass supreme. I am buying a new top for the cutlass on Friday. I want to get black canvass instead of the white (the car has black leather interior). They come in black, grey, white, red. What do you all think would be the best color? Just curious. Very few of these ole buggies still around (at least in my area). I thought I would join the forum to see what you all are up to (I feel very late to the party). I already have seen some super nice examples of these cars (nice job everyone!). Ill post more as spring hits and I can get them out, and work on them more. Also, not adverse to loading them up on the trailer for any meets that might happen. Thank you! Hope you all have a wonderful day!

Welcome! I think black top will look great on it. Better late than never! Not as bustling as it was back in the day, but there's a few of us W-body old timers left. I wouldn't mind seeing pics of the 4.9L in a W-body.

anyways, welcome to the site.

Hey everyone, My name’s Ryan, I’m from Long Island, NY, and I’m new to the Monte Carlo platform. I recently picked up a 2003 Monte Carlo SS and I’m excited to finally start a build thread and be part of the community. By trade I’m a licensed marine engineer, so I’m very hands-on mechanically and enjoy learning the technical side of things. On the automotive side, I’ve worked on and tuned a variety of platforms, everything from basic bolt-ons and wiring to full tuning using HP Tuners, Hondata, and standalone setups. I enjoy both the mechanical and tuning sides of builds and documenting the process. For the Monte, the plan is to start simple, catch up on maintenance, fix worn components, and do some basic bolt-ons while I sort out the body and cosmetics. Once the chassis and body are in better shape, the goal is to turn things up. I’m currently torn between a Gen V M90 top swap or going turbo, but either way the end goal is a "reliable", fun street car that still rips when you get into it. I’ll be sharing progress, asking questions, and learning as I go. Looking forward to seeing everyone’s builds and being part of the community.

Wow, that's awesome!

UPDATE: the car is going to the mechanic on 2/23 for this job. It will be going to a chevy dealer whose mechanic has decades of experience which is exactly what I was looking for. This mechanic is semi-retired and picks & chooses the jobs he wants to do. When he learned I'm the original and 4th owner he took the job. I was asked to supply all the parts which I think I will need. Included with these parts will be a new EGR valve and a new Low Coolant Sensor (due to the coolant being partially drained). I made a copy of Gnat's photo so thanks again for this. I will be seeing how the mechanic feels about just going the RTV route in lieu of pulling the rear head. Not only will the job be alot cheaper, I'd really prefer not opening that Pandora's box of potential additional issues if the head needs to be taken off.

Damn, that's a rare one!

Thanks all for this. As of the moment the car is in storage do it will be a while before I can check it out, but I will say I get more & more confident this will be the cause. It has been happening for a long time. Form the day I bought this car in Oct., 1994, I always wondered where a quart of oil was going every 1000 miles or so. My money is on this as pictured above, it was probably badly sealed to begin with. And these things don't get better, only worse. I went in and checked my 2020 repair bills from when I had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. The mechanic also replaced the gasket for the part 10130955 as you see in the photo but no mention is made on whether the distributor plug seal was addressed so I am going to assume it was not. While it's a shame all that work that was done to the motor back then would have to be re-done just to get at what needs to be repaired, so be it. Even if I decide to get the rear head pulled to replace the O-ring rather than trying my luck with sealant, that's still way better than having the entire motor pulled. I might as well go the whole 9 yards and have both head gaskets replaced for a one and done job. I should be getting the car out of storage within the next few weeks, I'll keep all posted on how things progress, and thanks again, much appreciated!

You're in the right place because we love our W-bodies here. Welcome!

The thought here was that you don't drive your W's in the winter.

Got the fuel line disconnected and fuel can ready to go but no go on the fuel pump. Do I have it wrong here? The car has been sitting for 6 weeks so the battery may be weak but radio turns on. Edit nevermind I'm an idiot i see the number on bottom of relay and i had it wrong Works like a charm thanks all

I wanna see pictures of the Gran Prix, never seen one before! /s Welcome!

Does the pump run? If it does, unhook a fuel line under the hood and jump the fuel pump relay.

I mean...those uncoated rotors often flash rust after a single wash and start looking pretty shabby in very short order, especially if the car has the 5 spokes or some other wheel that shows much of the brakes. Definitely won't need protection from salt, but as the coated ones do decently well against that, I can see them lasting forever on a southern car.

Not on my W's...but I use them on my dailies. I prefer to use the rotors with the black coated hat/edge vs the silver coated ones, as I find they hold up better. They seem to hold up relatively well, even throughout the winter. In all honesty though, if your current rotors are still good you could always hit them with a bit of black spray paint. I quickly hit the rear drums of my truck over 5 years ago without any real prep work, and those have held up better than some of the coated rotors i've run.

A maroon or dark green GS, tan interior and tinted windows with "Buick" mud flaps hits a 99-04ish nostalgia spot. Would still have to have those logo puddle lights though.

My grandparents had a 04 Regal GS with a "supercharged" emblem on the trunk lid. If I recall it was on the driver side.

GM if you can get them, anchor would be last resort. I just ordered a complete set of DEA mounts a couple days ago ago for my Lumina.

It's that time. The oil leak in the rear main seal of my 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.4L motor has gotten so bad that it needs to come out for repairs. In addition to this being in need of replacement, I am going to have the oil pan gasket replaced as well, along with the 3 coils and the alternator while the motor is out of the car. In addition to that, is there anything else anyone can think of that should be replaced while the motor is out, as this would be a golden opportunity to get it done. The engine compartment will also be degreased to clean up the big mess this leak has been making. It does not need a timing belt, water pump, or any intake manifold work as this was all done 5 years and 10,000 miles ago and no issues here.

I was able to replace the o-ring and add an extra gasket with the information from the old double gasket thread all without removing the rear head. I also put RTV on it and it never leaked in the 10+ years I owned the car after the repair.

One should have the service manual within reach for electrical diagnosis.

Wow, you've almost had that car as long as I've had my 89 Cutlass! Can't remember if I got mine in late 93 or early 94. Yes, that seal goes bad in all of them. Not if, but when. Rear main seal is rare. Oil pump drive O-rings going bad I'd say is 100% rate. If you were going to DIY it, I'd say don't worry about pulling the rear head. I owned my 94 for 12-years and my fudge-fix lasted for most of that time up to the day I sold the car. If you're having a shop do it, I imagine the intake manifold R&R itself isn't cheap, so I can understand wanting to do the head gaskets at the same time so as not to have to pay for a repeat job in the future. However, head gaskets on a DOHC V-engine sounds like it could be quite expensive labor-wise.

So my hunt begins for an intrigue with the 3.5, I'm looking specifically for a GL or GLS with the 3.29 gear ratio. Anyone know the RPO code for that to help me in my searches? Google and rpocode.com aren't helping me

There are various designs...plastic or steel.......seeing as you don't intend on getting into this sort of repair again I'd suggest just picking up the plastic set, you should be able to find them at Harbor Freight. The inlet (pressure side) is 3/8 as for a gas can..really up to you..pick up a pair of containers that will hold a total of 15 gals?

87 to 30

Hi guys, I'm still alive and well and still have dome light switches! The site used to send me an email when someone posted on this thread, not sure if that doesn't work anymore? My direct email is mezz@benris.com if anyone else is still looking or switches.

absolutely

spammer?

Welcome aboard!

Here is info for the the swap based on my own experience of swapping my 88 cutlass w-body. 3800 swap w-body From 98/99 Monte Carlo z34/lumina LTZ with 3.8NA Needed - power steering lines (buy new) - Heater hoses (buy new) - Exhaust downpipe (or have one made) - AC system - all lines/parts from the engine bay (compressors can be from the gtp too) Best to have from the Monte Carlo/lumina but not mandatory - engine bay wiring harness - Cv shafts (buy new if you don’t have them) From gtp donor - motor - Trans - Trans cooler lines - rad hoses - Motor mounts - Cv shafts - PCM - Engine bay wiring harness Notes: cv shafts if using an HD trans you need to use the gtp passenger inner with the 1st Gen shaft and outer joint. If you get them from the Monte you can use the stock Monte drivers side. Wiring: if you can’t find the Monte Carlo harness you can use the gtp harnesss, and merge it into the 1st Gen c100 connector. With the Monte harness it comes with the c100 you just need to remove a few pins around and overall much easier but can be hard to find. You’ll need the GM service manuals for your donor harness and your original car to match the c100 connector. If using a Monte harness you will probably want to add the BBV wiring. This will also convert the car to obd2 PCM: you will need to get the vats/security removed(it’s possible it won’t be an issue but be aware it probably will be) and probably want to remove a few other codes. Rad: you could use your original, but the donor gtp rad will be bigger and fits into the chassis. I’d say it’s recommended but not 100% necessary.

The *actuator* was discontinued approx 20 years ago.......finding an NOS piece would be a challenge. The item IS serviceable..........

Yeah, that makes it sound even more like the brake lights are the turn signal switch in the column... 1994-2001 Gen 1 and Gen 1.5 Turn Signal Switch Replacement | W-BodyTech Forums But that shifting thing...are you able to turn the key and move the steering wheel? Can you shift out of park with the steering wheel unlocked but with engine off?

What they liked the best: The brakes. What folks complain about the most on this site: The brakes. I've said it before, I'll say it again: The biggest problem with Gen 1 brakes is not the brakes per se, it's the brake booster.

"Automatic shoulder belts"

Gotta love that quality 80s GM fit and finish! And that Regal is very oddly equipped. Bench seat, manual locks and windows, no rear reading lights.....but it has alloy wheels. Then there is this: That cluster must be from a pre-production vehicle, as the tach was never red like that on any of the production ones. My old 88 Regal was a November 87 build, and the tach was green like the rest of the cluster.

I think youd have to do it by generation, as there are some significant changes by generation as well as intent (when you get to the later years there was more of a focus on handling handling vs the earlier focus on comfort handling). In addition, its important to consider that skidpad Gs do not equal handling. Ive driven race cars that would do an epic skidpad number but are so ill handling in transition/under braking/whatever, that they are virtually undriveable. I have the most experience with 1st gen w-bodies, and my vote there would be for the FE3 level Grand Prix coupe with the 245 wide tires. Though I suspect/wonder if the 1990 olds international with FE3 and the quad 4 would be the ultimate iteration for handling. Ive never driven one (almost nobody has) so I cant say definitively, hence my mention above of the 245 tire equipped GP. For gen 1.5, Im not sure. For the last generation, its most likely the 2008 GP GXP. The fact they fitted reverse stagger tires (and engineered the suspension to utilize this setup) tells me someone understood how to make an FWD car handle.

That is interesting how the sun visors disintegrated but yet the headliner was ok. My armrests are still soft and pliable, I just had to really clean them due to the years of elbows and forearms constantly touching them. They were pretty dark and black. I used a gentle mixture of Dawn soap and warm water and just gently rubbed them with a lint free cloth until the red started to appear. My headliner and sun visors are perfect in this car thankfully. The STE...not so much. The California desert pretty much baked it's interior. I'm SO THANKFUL that the International has such a nice interior. It's part of the reason why it's a 1 of 1 car. I'm actually restoring the front seats in it right now. The side bolster on the driver's seat is worn out. I'll post pics soon. I have all the hard pieces figured out and collected on the STE. It will be pricey though but I'll do a little at a time. The rear seat headrests and upper top portion of the seat will need to be reupholstered. The front seats are in great condition and just need to be deep cleaned. Same goes for the carpet. Got a new dash pad and found some really nice door panels with perfect door panels. I posted in my thread about all these parts being found. The biggest win was finding a perfect set of door speaker grills and the lenses for the door lamps. Took me years to find those! The original door armrests and the ones I pulled from a junkyard STE...again, not sticky or gooey at all. Pliable and very nice with no cracking or discoloration. I really lucked out there.

BCC= AXSJ2368 Scan id= 2391 Part number= 16162364 Release date= 11/09/90 Engine size= 3.4 Trans Type= Auto trans ECM/PCM: ECM #16149396 Used in cars: Chevy Pontiac Oldsmobile Possibly used in: LUMINA LUMINA EUROSPORT LUMINA Z34 GRAND PRIX LE GRAND PRIX SE GRAND PRIX GT GRAND PRIX STE CUTLASS SUPREME SUPREME INTERNAT'L CUTLASS SUPREME SL CUTLASS SUPREME CONV Options: With LQ1 3.4L GAS 6 CYL (3.4X) SFI OHC V6 HO With M13 AUTO 4 SPD (4T60-E) With NA5 FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS With QGW ALL P215/60 R/16 N BL R/PE ST TL HWY With QXJ P225/60R16/N NL R/PE ST TL AL3

AYSZ = 1992 LQ1/Auto BBUK = 1993 LQ1/Manual BCFA = 1991 LQ1/Manual BCFA is the one you'll want to use

If you use your resources correctly, you can get a 3800 for the same price as the 3400. The smart thing would be to look for an S3 and then get an S2 UIM to make it all work. Anyways, the flywheel between the engines are the same. Both used the same 4T65-E trans. The motor mounts should be the same as well. My understanding is that the blocks are the same but the internals are what differentiate them from a 3.1 liter and a 3.4 liter.

Use the trans that is in the 88 and the ecm from the 2.8 as well. If the 95 doesn't have the coolant temp sensor for the Guage/light in the rear head you will have to install a 3 wire temp sensor where the 2 wire is. The throttle cable from the 95 is needed as well. If your '88 has a 3spd you will have to rig up a kick down cable linkage on the throttle body some how. I welded a bracket to the throttle body myself, wasn't perfect but it made it drivable. Sure there may be some other things that I'm missing since it has been about 6 years since I swapped my old lumina!

Welcome to the site - are you thinking of an entire engine swap or just the top end swap? I won't have any answers for you on that but in reading your post I wasn't completely clear. As for the rear suspension, I've been looking into this matter myself recently. Everything on my car related to rear suspension and brakes is rusted beyond recognition (but somehow the body is totally solid!). These two writeups have been Very helpful to me as I've been feeling my way through what my next steps should be... converting to rear coilovers: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/37622-Coilovers-Adj-Mounts-Solid-Cradle-Bushings-UPDATE-3-25-Design-Done%21%21%21%21?p=651227&viewfull=1#post651227 and swapping in aluminum knuckles and bigger brakes: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/46209-Bob-and-Rob-s-Gen-2-Aluminum-Rear-Knuckle-and-Brake-Upgrade-How-To-with-Pics

It sounds like classic symptoms of a bad ECM. I hope that fixed it for you.

LOL I drove a quad 4 Grand prix. it was actually pretty quick. That was one of the VERY few quad 4 w-bodies i have seen. I would like to get my hands on one of thoes. Turbo Quad 4 GTP. i think the one i drove was a 1992 or a 1993 (not sure on the year anymore). it was blue (Very nice condition). It seemed quicker then i bet it actually was. I assume that maybe due to gear ratios being lower so it has more off the line get-up. RedZ

That's no shit! That'd be a keeper!

I would probably keep it as-is just for the novelty of it! A Quad4 W-body is rare enough, a Quad4 5-speed is extremely rare!

well I know tom wants a 5spd...and i have basically the same exterior package.

OMG tom lets buy that car....since I could use it for a parts car