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Got her running boys!! Not only that, she runs tip top again!! It was timing all along. Fabbed some tools in my father in laws shop to replicate those in the Kent moore kit and worked like a charm. A big thank you to those who offered help and guidance through my first real foray into the 3.4L dohc joys and frustrations. It's been better than 12 yrs since my z34 and I never tackled projects like gaskets or timing on it. This is really a great group!!

*It basically adjust the steering feel when going thru a parking lot and then tightens up when on the highway or Interstate*. almost......lol, not quite.... the sensor is there to 1. disengage the a/c .... 2. send a signal to the ecm to raise the engine rpm when the vehicle speed is so slow that the engine rpm is to low to adequately assist the needed power steering pressure. When the pressure in the system drops to a pre determined pressure that switch opens, the ecm *sees* that & raises the engine rpm to increase the pump rpm & power steering pressure. The sensor is referred to as Idle Speed Power Steering Pressure Switch

Hello, I’m new here but wanted to take the first step toward posting. As you can see in the title I have a 1991 Grand Prix. I just finished getting my DIY exhaust mocked up and ready to weld and I will try to post pictures of it soon as well as other things. I have all new KYB struts and just ordered the rest of the parts I need to build rear coil overs, with the intention of lowering the car a lot. Will start a thread on that soon. Glad to be here.

It had to be saved, it was going to the Jawas otherwise. All Jiggity57`s fault for posting it. I got into a bit of a race the other day when I probably shouldnt have. I made a right turn and immediately found a speeding BMW attempting to swerve around me from a sharp corner in the right lane. I laid into the pedal a bit, chirped the tires and heard an awesome turbo wastegate PAHHTISHHHHH and left the kraut cart far into the rearview mirror. Scared the hell out of me and blew the lower hose off the turbo in the process. I love this freakin` car! Decades after WW2 and we can still put the Messerschmitt`s in their place, just not in a P51 Mustangs.

Each of the intake manifolds design is unique to the upper plenum assembly. If one wants to swap the intake manifold to or from the earlier design then one must also swap the upper plenum assembly.

Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!

Pretty sure every one of these cars use this

yes indeed...

Little update, we got it tuned pretty good just having trouble making boost. Fixed a couple leaky intercooler pipes and it takes forever to build boost. Thinking maybe the 2 1/2 is too big for the turbo piping, probably will go to 2 inch. We have cam to put in which will help aswell. More vids coming soon

I just picked up a 93 vert last fall. I owned a 90 coupe as my first car back in highschool over 20 years ago. I've always wanted a convertible version since I first saw one. Now I do. lol She has a little damage from the previous owner which I've almost got all fixed but she's rust free with only 89k on the clock. The only pic i have right now is from the day I got her.

Supposedly you can gain a bit of power on the top end due to the intake being better designed. The downside is its a major pain in the ass to pull off properly, and even then it doesn't really fit the earlier engines well. not worth the trouble in my opinion.

I tried to do this as well probably back in 2010 or so. I couldn't find the parts I needed. So I just replaced the gaskets and moved on. I'd imagine finding the parts today would be very difficult.

I remember hearing it was worth it and wanting to do it back in the day on my cutlass but it was a pain finding everything at the yards. To put it into perspective I sold the cutlass 15 years ago.

Ehh, I dont hate it but it sort of looks funny being the only "chrome" on the car. Might have looked better above the tail light instead. It has little lines going through it like retro things did back then that match the grids in the tail lights and ribs in the bumpers in a very OCD friendly way.

I have an engine support bar ordered to try to make things as easy as possible. I’m adding subframe bushings to the project, too, along with a new trans pan gasket and filter swap. I don’t need to drive the car so I might as well do as much as I can!

I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.

I feel your pain but if it were my car, I would just drop the pan. I haven't done this on a 3.1 car as I own LQ1 cars but it's not a bad job really. Just make sure to clean everything well and you might as well put a new gasket on it. There are instructions in my manuals that require torque for the gasket and the metal tabs in certain areas of the perimeter of the pan flange. You'll also want to add dabs of silicone sealant in the corners of the pan where it goes up and around the crankshaft, etc. Again, the manual recommends this.

Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.

Check the obvious things, is the brake fluid level full? is the switch used to measure it working? Same goes for the parking brake pedal, try lifting on that to see if that causes the BRAKE light to go out High mount won't cause any of that on these cars. As for the ABS, yeah you need an appropriate scantool to read those codes. I use both a Tech1 or Tech2 to pull those codes, if you're anywhere near Pittsburgh I could pull them for you. Likely you have a couple separate issues, but on a 93' the ABS light is a non critical light, you just won't have any anti-lock is all.

Does anyone know if the 91-93 Z34's uses a speed sensor mounted on the steering racks? I know the GP and Cutlass did. It's part # 10096157/10204102 if they used them. Thank you.

It's a misconception that one or all need to *go to* Birchmount Spring here near to me in Toronto to get a replacement steel leaf spring for their car. Any spring shop can fab up a replacement multi leaf arrangement, the shop just needs to know what spring rate you want, how many leaves you require (the fewer the better ..more than 1 leaf), the total length of the leaves, the ride height you're looking for. What you see below is what is under my car...the shop I approached arched the 2 leaves to the right height I wanted, seeing as this is a transverse spring each leaf on each side has to be tweeked to ensure that each side of the car's ride height is identical.

Gotcha. Thank you for the accurate description. I was just making a guess. So...the Z34's do use this sensor as well then?

Great news!

You're welcome.

Pics? Though Ive got a feeling I know the part being referred too. IIRC its called run channel if its the slotted piece the glass makes contact with on the sides of the "window regulator". It could "possibly" be some universal stuff that solidified over time that just looks like plastic. Hey is this at the front A pillar side of the glass near the mirrors or against the rear part of the door glass closer to the handle? I`m thinking of 2 different parts now.

I've broken a rod end on the driver's side hydraulic ram for the convertible top. It broke off cleanly at the end of the shaft, saving the threads, but the "collar" still remains on the rod end. Any good tricks on how to screw this off without really messing stuff up? There's not much room to work...and I'd rather avoid tearing the interior panels off if I can avoid it. Thanks!

Working on this very car and searched up this thread for that SR P/N. Same thing happened on the passenger side and Ive about convinced myself I can replace the top and parts instead of a shop. Before that I want to disassemble and repaint/coat the frame pieces and go the extra mile a shop wouldnt. Can`t wait to get her back on the road and towards Pensacola, a convertible`s natural habitat!

not sure how i missed this before, but nice grab!

Good idea! It sucks for sure, but sounds like there will be a few things to do that will be easier with the subframe out of the way. 100% get an engine support bar or make one, It'll be way better. I did one with an engine hoist one time, and it was just a pain in the rear because the hoist legs were just in the way!

You don't "need" a scantool, necessarily, Its a 93' its not that smart in the first place. Qucik and dirty oldschool should get you pointed in the direction. These methods served me well for years. I'm saying this as someone who owns all the diagnostic equipment at this point in my life. Are the plugs fuel fouled? if they are that's a problem, New or not if they are soaked in gasoline they won't do much, pull it out if its wet and smells like gas then yeah Do you have injector pulse? One bad injector can bring the other 5 down with it. Its not uncommon for them to fail as the cars get older and older. To check it, pull the cover off the fuel rail, unplug an injector any injector. get yourself a 194 lamp unfold the leads and stuff them in the injector harness, does it flash while cranking? if it does plug the injector back in and move to another of the front 3 and repeat, this will rule out the one you just disconnected as being bad Make sure the battery is up to the task, the ECM won't run under ~9v or so. is the tachometer needle moving when you're cranking if not its an indication that the crank sensor could be bad Check fuel pressure, put a small flat blade screwdriver to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, do you get a forceful ejection of gasoline with the depression while the key is on? its probably ok pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, does fuel come out of it? if so thats a problem. if you happen to have a small hand vacuum pump pull a vacuum on the regulator if it won't hold any vacuum, thats also a problem Next lets get into the weeds a bit more, the map sensor is located behind the upper intake, is everything connected properly, if its unplugged the car won't start Coolant temp sensor is it connected, if its unplugged it thinks the coolant temp is around -40 or -50 degrees and can often lead to flooding and not starting I mean you did a heap of work to the car do a general sanity check to make sure nothing you did could have caused it. Hope this helps.

Bite the bullet and pull the pan off, with a engine bay support bar its not really that hard. Replace the oil pump with a newer higher volume one while your at it. Your timing cover gasket is probably in need of replacement as well so you might as well make it a good project.

Replaced relays, vroom vroom.

I knew I read about the Corvette people and hood vents from somewhere. The clear coat didnt make the pattern it was the new coat of primer on top of the scuffed up clear coat. I was thinking a media blaster using some "softer" stuff like baking soda would be enough to remove it evenly. Or just make a week long project out of doing it by hand a few square inches a night with sand paper. While their off I had the idea to see if CS vents fit, I`ll dig them out and see. I also have a set of Daytona vents I forgot I had, only have one drip pan for it though.

I believe the 04's were more subject to cracking, so I would go with a newer year.

This one has your name al over it! Being California car it should be reall clean https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/290176733382939/?mibextid=6ojiHh

Glad you got this TGP! It is really clean looking. I'll take a look for a grill. I used to have one.

Yep

did you all still want a picture of it installed?

I finally did this repair myself last night. I thought it was funny that we were talking about this 10 years ago! Summit still sells the same part with the same part number. Thank you so much for figuring this out and sharing how you did it, it saved me a bunch of time and money. I left my cylinder attached to the car to do the repair. I struggled with getting the broken end off the cylinder rod for a little while before I realized that I could move the rod end up and down into a better position by latching the convertible top in the up position, and just pushing the "up" and "down" buttons. I know this seems obvious, but I never push the up and down buttons with the top latched and didn't think of it until I watched a youtube video. The good cylinder on the other side is held in place and the hydraulic pressure change just moves the cylinder with the broken end up and down. I put a pair of vice grips wrapped with cardboard on the shaft and the broken end spun off easily with another pair of pliers. I used locktite on the new heim joint, because you can't tighten it very well and have it still lined with with the bracket. I also was careful to not drop the nut down into the body, as I'd read about a guy on w-body doing that in another thread. I just want to say I love this forum so much, my car broke and I fixed it for $5. A body shop would have probably charged me a bazillion dollars for a whole new cylinder assembly and labor.

OK kiddies, like the title says, is it possible to use the entire front sub frame and suspension in to a 1.5 lumina? I measured the front upper strut mounting bolts and it looks like the pattern is the same.

Incase anyone searches and wants the answer to this.... Yes it possible to bolt a 2nd gen subframe to the 1st gen. However there is some Modification needed to the front mounting bolts and some spacers needed to lower the subframe height. Miko k did the swap into his old 96 cutlass. He detailed it in his thread in the members ride section.

Yes can be done. -3800 motor and trans from a w-body(mounts are different between the different chassis. Just makes it easier). -Inner tulip cv joint from Same trans out axle from 1g w -Wiring harness 98-99 Monte Carlo/lumina ltz, need to mod c100 conector but easy enough -downpipe from same monte/lumina -power steering lines from monte/lumina -heater core lines from Monte/lumina -rad and hoses from 3800 car Motor will drop right into the subframe and into the car no issues. You can use the 2g wiring but you're into more wiring of the c100 connector as they're completely different.

Gen1 control arms are bolted to the K frame, and our struts are martian. Swapping the Gen2 frame, doesn't that mean that the whole suspension has to be reworked? I remember Miko's car... that thing was all modded up.

You can bolt the 2nd gen subframe in a 1st gen w-body, I've done it... Suspension becomes a headache though...

If anyone is wondering, these are still holding up great. Just like the day I put them in.

Aluminum subframe was 06+ only...

so will the Aluminum cradle fit gen 1 and 1.5 cars?

Finally got this fixed. On my way down through Georgia, just south of Atlanta is a Summit Racing Equipment store. They had the rod ends. Mild steel, rated at over 9,000 pounds. They're a bit meatier than the originals, but fit just fine. You'll have to discard the plastic bushings used on the original rod end, these have metal spherical inserts, rather than a large hole for a plastic bushing. Be sure to use Locktite on the threads, as the cylinder rod can rotate, and over time loosen the rod ends. 3/8-24 female thread for the cylinder rod, 3/8 hole for the top bolt. Summit Racing Equipment Part # SUM-MSF6 Cost $4.88 each

Actually, I have all the part #'s! Cutlass Supreme 88-94 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88-89 FE1 = 26044830 (same as above) 89.5-91 FE1 = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 92-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X FE3 = 26042018 95-96 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26047206 (AC #36-9042) 96 3.4X FE3 = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 97 3.4X, 3.1M = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 97 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26055475 (AC #36-9163) Lumina (didn't get as detailed on Lumina) 90-94 Z34, F41 = AC #36-9021 90-94 FE1 14" tires = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 95-96 F41 = AC# 36-9023 95-96 FE1 = AC #36-9024 97 L82, LQ1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98-99 FE1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) 99 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) Grand Prix 88 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88 FE1 = 26024892 89 FE3 1st design = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP, and others 89 FE3 2nd design = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 89 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26021781 1st design 90 FE3 = 26044830 2nd design (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP??? 91 FE3 = 26044830, FE3 STE (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 coupe = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 91 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.1T = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92 3.1T FE3 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 92-93 3.4X 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92-93 FE1, FE3, 3.1T = AC #36-9023 94-96 3.1M, FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 94-95 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 94 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3 = 26042018 95-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3, NV7 (variable assist) = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 96 3.4X FE3 26047207 (AC #36-9043) I didn't get any rack part #'s for Regal, but I assume it wouldn't be likely to have a quick ratio rack. It looks like the better rack available for Cutlass Supreme FE3 is the same as the base model FE1 rack used in Grand Prix. It's pretty simple until 94+ when GM used many different racks for different engines and different years. I focused more detail on GP racks, because they obviously have the more performance-oriented rack selection. I know the TGP has a very quick ratio rack (36-9020) but I wonder how it compares to 36-9021. Also I wonder if any of the newer variable assist racks are quick ratio or not.