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Well I cant wait any longer for you guys. 23.5 years is a bit long to make a guy hang on. So I just went ahead and got it myself.

Good day, I have been a W body enthusiast since high school 04. In my student parking lot, we had a 93 Gran prix, 94 olds cutlass supreme, 94 cavalier z24, 95 monte, and my lumina z34. These cars were everywhere! My first car was a 94 lumina z34 (still have it). In 2012 I put a 4.9 PFI in it and it is almost complete. I just need to replace the rear suspension and odds and ends. I have a 99 Monte (needs some work), and I just picked up a decent (needs some work) Cutlass supreme. I am buying a new top for the cutlass on Friday. I want to get black canvass instead of the white (the car has black leather interior). They come in black, grey, white, red. What do you all think would be the best color? Just curious. Very few of these ole buggies still around (at least in my area). I thought I would join the forum to see what you all are up to (I feel very late to the party). I already have seen some super nice examples of these cars (nice job everyone!). Ill post more as spring hits and I can get them out, and work on them more. Also, not adverse to loading them up on the trailer for any meets that might happen. Thank you! Hope you all have a wonderful day!

Welcome! I think black top will look great on it. Better late than never! Not as bustling as it was back in the day, but there's a few of us W-body old timers left. I wouldn't mind seeing pics of the 4.9L in a W-body.

anyways, welcome to the site.

Hey everyone, My name’s Ryan, I’m from Long Island, NY, and I’m new to the Monte Carlo platform. I recently picked up a 2003 Monte Carlo SS and I’m excited to finally start a build thread and be part of the community. By trade I’m a licensed marine engineer, so I’m very hands-on mechanically and enjoy learning the technical side of things. On the automotive side, I’ve worked on and tuned a variety of platforms, everything from basic bolt-ons and wiring to full tuning using HP Tuners, Hondata, and standalone setups. I enjoy both the mechanical and tuning sides of builds and documenting the process. For the Monte, the plan is to start simple, catch up on maintenance, fix worn components, and do some basic bolt-ons while I sort out the body and cosmetics. Once the chassis and body are in better shape, the goal is to turn things up. I’m currently torn between a Gen V M90 top swap or going turbo, but either way the end goal is a "reliable", fun street car that still rips when you get into it. I’ll be sharing progress, asking questions, and learning as I go. Looking forward to seeing everyone’s builds and being part of the community.

Hi, I’ve just stumbled onto this forum, and i figure I’ll probably need to post here eventually acquired my luminator last year, 2nd owner from a grandma. 70000 (got w 55000)miles. Here’s some pics; thx yall

Thanks all for this. As of the moment the car is in storage do it will be a while before I can check it out, but I will say I get more & more confident this will be the cause. It has been happening for a long time. Form the day I bought this car in Oct., 1994, I always wondered where a quart of oil was going every 1000 miles or so. My money is on this as pictured above, it was probably badly sealed to begin with. And these things don't get better, only worse. I went in and checked my 2020 repair bills from when I had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. The mechanic also replaced the gasket for the part 10130955 as you see in the photo but no mention is made on whether the distributor plug seal was addressed so I am going to assume it was not. While it's a shame all that work that was done to the motor back then would have to be re-done just to get at what needs to be repaired, so be it. Even if I decide to get the rear head pulled to replace the O-ring rather than trying my luck with sealant, that's still way better than having the entire motor pulled. I might as well go the whole 9 yards and have both head gaskets replaced for a one and done job. I should be getting the car out of storage within the next few weeks, I'll keep all posted on how things progress, and thanks again, much appreciated!

You're in the right place because we love our W-bodies here. Welcome!

I wanna see pictures of the Gran Prix, never seen one before! /s Welcome!

Does the pump run? If it does, unhook a fuel line under the hood and jump the fuel pump relay.

Its likely a pre-production thing that never carried over, as that episode was filmed prior to the 88 cutlass being released.

The *actuator* was discontinued approx 20 years ago.......finding an NOS piece would be a challenge. The item IS serviceable..........

It's that time. The oil leak in the rear main seal of my 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.4L motor has gotten so bad that it needs to come out for repairs. In addition to this being in need of replacement, I am going to have the oil pan gasket replaced as well, along with the 3 coils and the alternator while the motor is out of the car. In addition to that, is there anything else anyone can think of that should be replaced while the motor is out, as this would be a golden opportunity to get it done. The engine compartment will also be degreased to clean up the big mess this leak has been making. It does not need a timing belt, water pump, or any intake manifold work as this was all done 5 years and 10,000 miles ago and no issues here.

UPDATE - I believe I may have found a shop with a mechanic having the experience to have worked on these motors that will do the job. My first hunch was to go to a Chevy dealership as the Lumina had these motors as well, those Z-34's you almost never see (?). As soon as they found out I was in no rush to get the car back, they were more open to the idea of working on it. I guess they thought I wanted it done yesterday. Not the case, anytime between now and July 22 will do........ Stay tuned

One should have the service manual within reach for electrical diagnosis.

Wow, you've almost had that car as long as I've had my 89 Cutlass! Can't remember if I got mine in late 93 or early 94. Yes, that seal goes bad in all of them. Not if, but when. Rear main seal is rare. Oil pump drive O-rings going bad I'd say is 100% rate. If you were going to DIY it, I'd say don't worry about pulling the rear head. I owned my 94 for 12-years and my fudge-fix lasted for most of that time up to the day I sold the car. If you're having a shop do it, I imagine the intake manifold R&R itself isn't cheap, so I can understand wanting to do the head gaskets at the same time so as not to have to pay for a repeat job in the future. However, head gaskets on a DOHC V-engine sounds like it could be quite expensive labor-wise.

I've ground the top ridge of the pump drive down slightly to allow for more room to work, then use a distributer gasket for a Lumina van with a 3.1, just give it a cut and slather it in RTV, seems to work well. and I'll be damned if I'm pulling a head just for that.

It's in the valley right by where the transmission and engine block are joined together. Oil will pool around the distributor plug (also called "oil pump drive") and run down the side right where the transmission mates to the block so where it drips on the ground looks very much like a rear main seal. An O-ring goes bad on it allowing it to leak. Shine a flashlight down there, and if there's oil pooled in that area, that's your culprit. Unfortunately, yes, it's blocked by the rear head. What most people do is lift it up as high as possible and clean it and the block as well as possible. Some sandwich a thin O-ring under it, others RTV it. My memory is hazy, but I think I may have done both. On my pic, high pressure oil-resistant RTV is the stuff kind of squishing out from under it. It's dirty because this was many years later, but it worked great. Official GM procedure is to pull the rear head, but that's way, way too much trouble.

There are various designs...plastic or steel.......seeing as you don't intend on getting into this sort of repair again I'd suggest just picking up the plastic set, you should be able to find them at Harbor Freight. The inlet (pressure side) is 3/8 as for a gas can..really up to you..pick up a pair of containers that will hold a total of 15 gals?

This is the only device that will separate the fuel line from the rail.... there is another method you might try.... raise the car up high enough to get under comfortably & disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel line (one end of the filter makes used of threaded connection , the other end is the same ac/fuel line quick disconnect slip-on connection). Once again run a length of hose long enough to clear the car & fill a gas container to drain the tank.

there should be a loose red wire near the relay jump that to the positive post and it should turn the fuel pump on

Hi guys, I'm still alive and well and still have dome light switches! The site used to send me an email when someone posted on this thread, not sure if that doesn't work anymore? My direct email is mezz@benris.com if anyone else is still looking or switches.

Spammer......

spammer?

not even a difference ABS/non abs on the gen1 front knuckles. the sensor is separate of the wheel hub - why gm couldn't have continued this into the later cars is beyond me. buy whichever brand you determine to be the highest quality or fits within your budget

Welcome aboard!

It's been a while since I've seen one of these out in traffic. These cars were mostly rotted out during the last recession in 2008. I was just thinking if I saw one today it would stand out a lot because of all the crossovers people drive now. Especially a clean one. Most people probably wouldn't know what it was. Welcome to the forum.

Looks very similar to a few buildings in Nashville so had to ask.

Thank you(I hope I replied to your comment the right way) will definitely taking care of her best I can. As per my city; I’m located in Philadelphia.

Welcome! I remember when those were your everyday generic GM car back in the day (`99-`04ish) but they really stand out now. 70,000 is great mileage considering the age and the only real problem spot on that 3100 is the LIM gaskets. Flush the fluids and keep the oil changed regularly and there`s no reason you couldnt see 200k on the OD if there isnt any rust. It looks like a brand new car from the pics, and that makes it extremely uncommon to rare nowadays. Great pics with the city background. What town are you in?

Here is info for the the swap based on my own experience of swapping my 88 cutlass w-body. 3800 swap w-body From 98/99 Monte Carlo z34/lumina LTZ with 3.8NA Needed - power steering lines (buy new) - Heater hoses (buy new) - Exhaust downpipe (or have one made) - AC system - all lines/parts from the engine bay (compressors can be from the gtp too) Best to have from the Monte Carlo/lumina but not mandatory - engine bay wiring harness - Cv shafts (buy new if you don’t have them) From gtp donor - motor - Trans - Trans cooler lines - rad hoses - Motor mounts - Cv shafts - PCM - Engine bay wiring harness Notes: cv shafts if using an HD trans you need to use the gtp passenger inner with the 1st Gen shaft and outer joint. If you get them from the Monte you can use the stock Monte drivers side. Wiring: if you can’t find the Monte Carlo harness you can use the gtp harnesss, and merge it into the 1st Gen c100 connector. With the Monte harness it comes with the c100 you just need to remove a few pins around and overall much easier but can be hard to find. You’ll need the GM service manuals for your donor harness and your original car to match the c100 connector. If using a Monte harness you will probably want to add the BBV wiring. This will also convert the car to obd2 PCM: you will need to get the vats/security removed(it’s possible it won’t be an issue but be aware it probably will be) and probably want to remove a few other codes. Rad: you could use your original, but the donor gtp rad will be bigger and fits into the chassis. I’d say it’s recommended but not 100% necessary.

One thing to be careful of there is that 2004 was a bit of a transitional year. A 2004 Lacrosse is a 3rd gen W and came with the 3800 series 3, while the 2004 Monte/Impala was still a 2nd gen and came with the 3800 series 2. Compatibility wise, you’re very much going to be stuck running a compressor compatible with a 2004 Monte SS if you want any hope of things functioning properly. The other potential gotcha is that 2nd gens also ran a BCM. There is a possibility that the PCM requires input from the BCM in order for the AC compressor to run correctly in the first place.

Yeah, that makes it sound even more like the brake lights are the turn signal switch in the column... 1994-2001 Gen 1 and Gen 1.5 Turn Signal Switch Replacement | W-BodyTech Forums But that shifting thing...are you able to turn the key and move the steering wheel? Can you shift out of park with the steering wheel unlocked but with engine off?

Like the title says, I am a new member now, but I was a fairly regular member here around 15-20 years ago. My screen name at that time was Regal_GS_1989. I originally owned an 89 Regal GS coupe, a 92 Cutlass International Coupe, and finally a 2000 Regal Sedan. Life got busy, I stopped posting regularly, and the 2000 was sold off about 10 years ago for something newer and more family friendly. Time has marched on, and I am now in a position where I have the time and resources to be able to own a “weekend” vehicle. As luck, or possibly fate would have it, this beauty quite literally fell into my lap at the perfect moment… A 92 Regal GS Coupe. Black, Grey leather interior, low milage, One owner, garage kept its entire life, ordered new with every option box checked off…save for the sunroof. It’s truly worthy of the term survivor, and it’s exactly how I would have ordered one myself back in the day. Gotta say…it feels sort of strange to be back here posting again about a 1st gen coupe…but I can get used to that I am also surprised at how many screen names I still recognize as well!

You should be able to OBD2 swap if you want to go that route, but I'm not sure how possible tuning is with the current options besides what GTP091 mentioned. DHP can still be obtained, but support isn't what it used to be. redzmonte had a turbo 3.4 95 Monte that he swapped the OBD1.5 to OBD2 and tuned. I had tuned my 96 3.4 GP with DHP years ago. I believe you can run a 97 PCM and use HPT, who supports 97+ 3.4 Montes, so I'm not sure how that would work. edit: after some research, looks like you can buy the DHP interface from the original manufacturer (AVT) and it SHOULD work. Setting up DHP on a Windows 10 laptop is a bit of a chore. http://www.avt-hq.com/852_hw.htm http://www.avt-hq.com/price.htm

BCC= AXSJ2368 Scan id= 2391 Part number= 16162364 Release date= 11/09/90 Engine size= 3.4 Trans Type= Auto trans ECM/PCM: ECM #16149396 Used in cars: Chevy Pontiac Oldsmobile Possibly used in: LUMINA LUMINA EUROSPORT LUMINA Z34 GRAND PRIX LE GRAND PRIX SE GRAND PRIX GT GRAND PRIX STE CUTLASS SUPREME SUPREME INTERNAT'L CUTLASS SUPREME SL CUTLASS SUPREME CONV Options: With LQ1 3.4L GAS 6 CYL (3.4X) SFI OHC V6 HO With M13 AUTO 4 SPD (4T60-E) With NA5 FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS With QGW ALL P215/60 R/16 N BL R/PE ST TL HWY With QXJ P225/60R16/N NL R/PE ST TL AL3

AYSZ = 1992 LQ1/Auto BBUK = 1993 LQ1/Manual BCFA = 1991 LQ1/Manual BCFA is the one you'll want to use

The 4 memcal's used with the 91-93 LQ1 are AYSZ, BBUK, BCDT & BCFA. BBUK is the early manual trans memcal, & BCFA or *1441* is the later manual trans memcal.

Use the trans that is in the 88 and the ecm from the 2.8 as well. If the 95 doesn't have the coolant temp sensor for the Guage/light in the rear head you will have to install a 3 wire temp sensor where the 2 wire is. The throttle cable from the 95 is needed as well. If your '88 has a 3spd you will have to rig up a kick down cable linkage on the throttle body some how. I welded a bracket to the throttle body myself, wasn't perfect but it made it drivable. Sure there may be some other things that I'm missing since it has been about 6 years since I swapped my old lumina!

on to the wiring this will cover all 97-99 monte/luminas(possibly cutlass too but im not sure) on the c100 plug switch the b1 and d5 wire. literally cut both and switch positions. i also cut and taped off c1 as its unused. will post 2000 lumina and 97 and 98 monte c100 pinouts tomoro mebbe nitehawk or someone else with a3800 swapped 96 monte will post that second part of wiring theres a plug on the d side that plugs into the harness on the fender for the wipers stock has a 6 pin plug, 2000-01 is a 3 pin. cut the female end off ur original harness and the male? end off the donor car with a few inches on each plug. simply match colors splice and b VERY liberal with the electrical tape. voila you just made ur adapter harness for wipers. if ur gonna 3800 swap later this adapter will work for that too will post pics of my adapter and location tomoro also

Welcome to the site - are you thinking of an entire engine swap or just the top end swap? I won't have any answers for you on that but in reading your post I wasn't completely clear. As for the rear suspension, I've been looking into this matter myself recently. Everything on my car related to rear suspension and brakes is rusted beyond recognition (but somehow the body is totally solid!). These two writeups have been Very helpful to me as I've been feeling my way through what my next steps should be... converting to rear coilovers: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/37622-Coilovers-Adj-Mounts-Solid-Cradle-Bushings-UPDATE-3-25-Design-Done%21%21%21%21?p=651227&viewfull=1#post651227 and swapping in aluminum knuckles and bigger brakes: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/46209-Bob-and-Rob-s-Gen-2-Aluminum-Rear-Knuckle-and-Brake-Upgrade-How-To-with-Pics

any '96-03 3400 will drop right in with the 1st gen OBD2 harness. You will have the easiest time with a '97 system (harness and PCM), I'd go with that. A '96 system would work as well (though it's less tunable should you go that route), but with either setup you go with, grab a PCM from a '96-97 Venture/Montana/Silhouette.

the last 2 3400 swaps I did used 3.1 injectors on stock obd1 ecm's and they both run fine. the bigger injectors will make more power with a tune, but the first thing I would do is start with a better fuel pump. when I first put the 3100 in my old 84 cavalier I went to the track then swapped to a Camaro LT1 fuel pump and went back the next weekend with no other changes an dropped almost 4 tenths off my ET. if I was doing a basic (stock) 3400 swap on a obd1 car I would use 96-99 3400 or 3100 injectors with matching fuel rail (2000+ injectors will not work on stock ecm) or 2.8/3.1 injectors with a 2000+ 3400 fuel rail that has the higer pressure regulator. But if I was mooding a 3400 and dropping it in I would use injectors sized for the fuel requirements of the engine and a full tune.

you will need: -throttle cable and bracket -upper rad hose -coil bracket and module -front pass. side engine mount bracket -ac compressor (not sure if the orginal one will work) -power steering pump and H/P line -brake booster hose all from a 3100/3400 w-body You can get away with running it on the stock ECM as long as you use the stock fuel injectors and injector harness from the 3.1. You will need to change (or have one made up) front pipe/ down pipe to hook up to the rear 3400 exhaust manifold. A 3 wire coolant temp sensor and connector from a 92+ 2.2L Cavalier is the easy way of hooking up your temp guage wire from the rear head on the 3.1\ you will also need a lower rad hose for a 92-93 3.1L w-body The wiring from the coils gets re-routed to the rear of the engine from the front... then its little things like coolant hoses, and vac lines. That is all that I can think needs done right now, but I am sure I am missing a few things.

keep it simple and just bolt in the 3400 its less power than the TDC but less weight too! I would just use the stock tranny to keep cost down. you will need the front pass. side block mount from a 3100 equipped w-body because the bolt holes are in different spots, at least just on that spot of the block. use a coolant temp sensor from the 3400 (3-wire ) and wire up the temp guage to it insead of the back head cause the 3400 has no hole for the sensor. you will also need a throttle cable and exhaust manifolds for a 3100 w-body. Most people use the 3.1 injectors and harness when they do the swap untill they go to tune it. stay away from the '04+ 3400's in the equinox (I beleave it is) they have a plenum that faces the opposite way and a different crank sensor pick up on the crank that will not work with your 3.1 ecm. that is all that is comming to mind right now.

I was the one doing that swap, and if you're going to run a 3400 it's definitely worth it. You don't want puddle fuel injection on a 3400. The hardest part in your case would be repinning the C100 connector to your car's pinouts. Also, if you plan to use the same tranny you have now, that will require doing wiring changes on the harness, or you can just use the tranny for the 3400, and you're set. There really wouldn't be much more beyond that. Mine was a PITA because I had to convince my ECM that it's controlling a tranny when it is in reality a 5 speed.

did i change my front end!? LOL i changed my whole car! j/k but yeah i did i put all the parts from the Z34 coupe on my base model 4 door, and the side skirts are from Razzi. I got a n ew white paint job and all the parts and labor for about $5500. lot of money i know but i love my car, next is to sell my coilovers and get a air cylinder set up. Later Jay check out my www tab on the bottom and see what it used to look like

LOL I drove a quad 4 Grand prix. it was actually pretty quick. That was one of the VERY few quad 4 w-bodies i have seen. I would like to get my hands on one of thoes. Turbo Quad 4 GTP. i think the one i drove was a 1992 or a 1993 (not sure on the year anymore). it was blue (Very nice condition). It seemed quicker then i bet it actually was. I assume that maybe due to gear ratios being lower so it has more off the line get-up. RedZ

That's no shit! That'd be a keeper!

OMG tom lets buy that car....since I could use it for a parts car