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Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
90sEraWhips and 3 others reacted to j_train5344 for a topic
Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again4 points -
Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP
94 olds vert and 2 others reacted to BradCH for a topic
Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!3 points -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
j_train5344 and 2 others reacted to White93z34 for a topic
Schurkey is almost completely right but you need a small flatblade screwdriver to wind it back in is all. My main concern is once I need one next its going to be figuring out how to rebuild one or adapt something to fit as I've had more then a few fail in my time. Just a point of interest not that this anything to do with anything but I've done more LQ1 timing belts then most people and NOT ONCE have I actually gotten oil out of a tensioner. when I serviced the belt. I always put some back in... just thought it an interesting thing to point out.3 points -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
j_train5344 and 2 others reacted to Schurkey for a topic
The process is well-described in the service manual. I haven't done this in probably ten years. Going from memory... Remove tensioner from the engine. There's a rubber plug on the tensioner body. You remove the rubber plug, drain the old oil out of it, then refill with fresh synthetic oil of the proper viscosity--might be 5W-30, I don't remember for sure. The plug either has a tiny hole in it, or you PUT a tiny hole in it. The tensioner plunger is wound back into the main body with a wrench. You hold the plunger in place while cramming a wire into the main body through the rubber plug which locks the plunger--otherwise it just unwinds again under spring tension. When the belt is back on, tensioner reinstalled--you pull the wire out, which releases the plunger and tensions the belt. Confirm with the actual service manual. Point is, it's not hard at all to reset the oil-filled (but not "hydraulic") tensioner.3 points -
Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP
94 olds vert and one other reacted to White93z34 for a topic
Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.2 points -
LS4 swap begins
GnatGoSplat and one other reacted to carkhz316 for a topic
Dang, its a been a spell. I'm sorry I havn't checked back in for some time. Anyway, I got the the Monte out to a few car shows last summer. I live in a rural area, so not many eyes and ears for modern cars. I was largely ignored but I don't care. The few people genuinely interested were great to talk to and showed sincere interest, so thats nice. Anyway, some pics and videos from last year. Yes, the vette covers are a cheeky joke, mostly. I figured if anyone else can do it for their LS (Vortec) swapped classic or hot rod, why can't I?2 points -
New member
pwmin and one other reacted to Gp2006 for a topic
Hi all. Just signed up. I’m here from GPForum where I used to get lots of good technical info. Alas the site is no more. Hope to pick up and share info as I go along. Just put my 2006 Grand Prix back on the road after several years in storage. Nothing fancy but it runs great and still looks good.2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
pwmin and one other reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
That's very kind of you! I've learned a lot due to me basically having to get so deep into both my cars restoration. It's forced me to learn how these cars are put together and I've become very good at looking for parts, doing research, etc. I'm trying for perfection but still have lots to learn and work to do. I can't forget to mention the guys who came before me. I've learned so much from them that I can't...NO ONE can do it without their knowledge and guidance. I'm just trying to pay it forward.2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 and one other reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 and one other reacted to rich_e777 for a topic
Nice ride, Ive got a white `95 Vert thats been a project for awhile now. They`re great cars but the Verts and the DOHC engine both have unique parts no longer in production so they have to be maintained. There's several places coolant can get to leaking from, few are easy to get to. They can even get to leaking coolant from a plug inside the bellhousing. One thing Ive encountered on mine and seen on several junkyard cars is the antenna mast seal on those can go bad, leak into the trunk and rust from the inside out just over the rear wheel wheel. You might check behind ya`lls trunk liner to check every now and then.2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
90sEraWhips and one other reacted to j_train5344 for a topic
She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 and one other reacted to Oldsman for a topic
Welcome. I haven't been on here very long and have only a few posts. My wife has a very similar car except hers is a 95 with only 27,000 miles. I found the thread on here about replacing the rear window weatherstrips. They are no longer available and the thread shows how to use 4th generation Camaro door weatherstrips. Excellent article. It looks like somebody has painted your brake calipers red. I did the same thing to my wife's car last year when I replaced the pads. These are really fun cars. Enjoy yours.2 points -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 and one other reacted to j_train5344 for a topic
Wonderful info guys! Truly...thank you! I just bought a 93 olds Cutlass with 108k mi. Confirmed for sure needs a timing belt. All of your info will come in handy guaranteed. Also doing plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, and whatever else comes up in the process. Again, thank you all so much! Pics to come2 points -
TGP hood vent repair.
94 olds vert and one other reacted to rich_e777 for a topic
Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat2 points -
Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt
jiggity76 reacted to cutlassman for a topic
I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.1 point -
TGP hood vent repair.
rich_e777 reacted to 94 olds vert for a topic
I don't know if I would use a media blaster on those vents. That could damage them. When I had my 1st gen GP and I added some vents. I took them to a shop that specializes in corvettes. They were able to repair them. I had a few broken mount points and a cracks. Plastics can be tricky to paint. I would try a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Lift-Off-TESF542143-Plastics/dp/B000BQSKQE/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.D26tQF1wV1qdtPU_fCc6S1cn9VBRfVsiKvTkIvtLwO9Xj7KES-1xXQxJ47Qq9lgH1ugikOWGfMueBW5LLxjLesyeN_NSvIv7HVASJKH7TeneFQvPTkj1Xc_Kce2XXeGcm59pzmpIDTG6SzAY6cy2gwWUDI5E3v6v3644kHnJiOR8TK7U8zbG5TwaNg_efrjf9nQocukymTJAwYQnMmLw9yzk1V0c6XBz0e4w9LdMYIHpS-FXEf3ERYySGoZ2Vc5M7rTt9zgP_uWqfwzXC_vpF0ttHWBVNKVtMINh4rRZl4U.xETHwFlqmrxsYAfmsAfwXOaFbWvaTM5EgMQJmR4OmAU&dib_tag=se&keywords=paint+remover+for+plastic&qid=1711146143&sr=8-5 Try a test spot and hopefully it's not too aggressive with the vent. The clear coat left a lightning bolt pattern? Could have just been the clear coat reacting weird to the base layers of paint. I've had it happen and it sucks.1 point -
TGP hood vent repair.
rich_e777 reacted to 94 olds vert for a topic
I have a very similar issues on my jet ski, with metal screws and plastic mounts. I slammed into a wave pretty hard and broke the tabs. Luckily I was able to get the hood vent cover out of the lake. Looks like I know what to use for the repair now.1 point -
Hey all. New here.............
pwmin reacted to KevenP for a topic
and to Pontiac's. Picked up an '02 Grand Prix SE for the missus. 116K miles and I've already replaced the intake gaskets. Anything else to look out for?1 point -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
Not sure if you care about it or not but it looks like you're missing the lug nut caps. Very pretty car though!1 point -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
jiggity76 reacted to j_train5344 for a topic
Swear jiggity76, between your replies/posts here and YouTube, you seem to be the authority on everything Cutlass!!! I'd love to see your cars in person!!! I imagine perfection!!!!1 point -
'94 Grand Prix SE sedan, installing subwoofer (stock 4-speaker radio)
Robbie reacted to 55trucker for a topic
For speaker level input on any car amp tapping into (or paralleling) the existing circuit is not the proper way to do this. The head unit's amp section is designed to drive four 4 ohm channels, if you upset that impedance to the rears by adding another load in parallel into the circuit you'll cause issues for the head unit amplifier possibly causing the head unit to fail. The proper method would be to open the circuit to the rear channels & plumb in the amplifier using the left & right speaker level inputs to the amp, then reapply the left & right rear channels using 2 of the amps four channels to the parcel shelf speakers & the 2nd set of amp outputs in a bridged mode circuit to the *new* sub. To do this one needs a 4/1 or a 4 channel amp, 2 of the 4 channels out go to the rear parcel shelf speakers & the other 2 channels are bridged into 1 that go to the sub... ASSUMING the sub is a single voice coil driver, if the sub has dual voice coils then no bridging is required.1 point -
TGP hood vent repair.
94 olds vert reacted to rich_e777 for a topic
Do not use the flexible bumper repair stuff, it doesnt hold at all. As soon as I screwed the vent back down it all seperated and I could peel the urethane off clean. So now I`m going to strip it and try again, might do the other just to be sure they match. I used Gorilla glue gel to re-attach the unobtanium and ran a mounting screw down the glued on provision and it all held very nice. Let it cure for 24 hours.1 point -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 reacted to rich_e777 for a topic
I have this task on the to do list that never seems to get any shorter. Thanks for the info dudes!1 point -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
Amanita reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
This is a great overall video of not only the tensioner but anything having to do with servicing these wonderful motors. Like in the video, motor oil is used to top off the tensioner. There is a rubber plug that gives access to filling it. The video explains what is acceptable for the tensioner to be at as far as specs to be considered reusable. You'll have to skip forward a bit to find the appropriate sections of information. Hope this helps!1 point -
COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR DISCONTINUED FOR 2.8L V-6 & 3.1L W-body cars
90sEraWhips reacted to 89-W-Body-Regal for a topic
Ok, I checked the sensor a week ago and the wiring. The sensor I got was back in July, last year. I replaced it because I was putting a new radiator in and wanted to save time. I also got a new engine installed too so I wanted to replace some sensors to put on the new motor. I needed a new ECM as well because water got into it. The shop installed everything with the new engine. The low coolant light was on. They thought maybe it was the ecm. But the ecm had no codes and wasn’t causing any drivability concerns. So they said it could just be a bad wire like you said. The shop knows I know my car better than anyone inside out because I provided the parts and found the motor myself. I checked the connector and wiring along the sensor. All clean and connector was tight and clean. I thought for the hell of it, the shop gived me my old coolant level sensor back. I put that back on and what do you know the low coolant light went out. So it had to be that nos sensor the dealer sold me. No wonder they charged me so cheap for it. These sensors nos GM are expensive. It was probably a bad sensor they had sitting on the shelf and wanted to get rid of it. I am going to have to drive the Buick and monitor it to make sure the light don’t come back on. I will let you know if it comes back on or not. I am gonna take her for a long drive.1 point -
97 cutty ls4 swap
carkhz316 reacted to Donny_olds for a topic
Got cooling system and all accessories on. Having some trouble getting tranny to shift, we used a 4l80 as reference for pinning the harness to the ecu and we can get it into first manually but no luck shifting, any tips?? IMG_1476.MOV1 point -
Tired 88 Cutlass
90sEraWhips reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
He's here. Not consistently, but he does check in once in awhile. He's also on FB. Classic GM FWD Society. Yes, he does both of them. He actually looked at my cluster a few months ago. Sadly, it couldn't be repaired as it was badly damaged. Don't let that deter you though. Each cluster repair is unique and he very well might be able to fix yours. Very fair on price too.1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Schurkey for a topic
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat=4T60E&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=105&parent_id=105 Shift kit and accumulator parts. I've come to appreciate Transgo shift kits vs. B&M or other "famous names". There's a bunch of different wiring changes on the 4T60E, at the big round connector. For example, I can't swap a 92 Euro 3.4 trans into a '93 Euro 3.4 car. I have a Kent-Moore "special tool" that can shift the transmission into all the different gears, but there's a bunch of different wiring adapters depending on what application the trans is configured for. I don't have many of the wiring adapters.1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to NCTyphoonKid for a topic
There's nothing like a clean engine, this thing has been covered in grease from where it's never been cleaned although that may be a good thing knowing it hasn't really been boogered with by previous owners/shops. I think I'm going to do the plenum and valve covers red and polish the aluminum fins . I think it would go good with the white. Something similar to the stock fiero 2.8 look1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to NCTyphoonKid for a topic
1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to 55trucker for a topic
A 92 with a 3.1 (LHO) engine you'll have the 440T4(4T60) trans which was the predecessor to the 4T60E, if you're going to attempt to do this yourself see these links. the *master* kit doesn't include the *hard* material, http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60_transmission_master_kit_p/370-000037003.htm you'll need the additional items to replace the damaged internals http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60_transmission_solenoids_s/6401.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60_Transmission_thrust_washers_bearings_s/6387.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60E_Vacuum_Modulator_s/6397.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_transmission_parts_s/6392.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_transmission_bands_s/6386.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_transmission_filter_s/6385.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Transmission_Repair_Manuals_s/6395.htm obviously you've got to have a manual to guide you..........there will be need to remove & replace any worn bearing (some of them will be needle bearings), assembling the clutch piston, a guide for selecting the proper thrust washers for the input shaft end play, Try to get an proper manual for the trans, the more exploded views you see will help the process. good luck with this1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Imp558 for a topic
1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to NCTyphoonKid for a topic
Sounds good, I've been looking at rock auto and they sell rebuild kits for the 4t60 reasonably1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Imp558 for a topic
two versions in 1992 looks like the second gear switch.1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Imp558 for a topic
What is the parts car you have? I can look in alldata and see if that tranny is the same for you.1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Galaxie500XL for a topic
If your 4th gear is working when cold, then goes away when the transmission is warm, you probably have an issue with the TCC apply piston...pretty common on the 4T60. The piston is known for galling the cylinder it rides in, and then it sticks in the bore. With the torque converter clutch unable to lock the converter, the ECM disables overdrive to try to save the transmission from high temperatures. I had this problem with my '95 Cutlass convertible, and it actually took a second rebuild by the transmission shop to resolve it, because they didn't listen the first time when I told them what the problem was. A scantool that can read torque converter slip percentage data from the ECM can confirm what's happening. Mine would work perfectly, until transmission temps exceeded 180 degrees, then it would disable 4th. Shutting down, and restarting the car once it was warm would allow 4th to work for a minute or so, then the ECM would disable overdrive again. You might find that simply replacing the valve body resolves the problem. There's a fairly long description of the problem that I wrote on this forum about 8 years ago that more fully describes the problem.1 point -
W-body engine pull
90sEraWhips reacted to Heartbeat1991 for a topic
I dropped mine out the bottom all as one unit.1 point -
95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap
90sEraWhips reacted to Turbocharged400sbc for a topic
one of your biggest headaches is going to be the firewall pass throughs for the harness I'm pretty sure you will not be able to make it weather tight as GM changed the pass through size an xxx shape to accommodate almost twice as many wires as older cars. you also may well get stuck keeping the BCM as most modern Obd2/CAN bus security and anti theft systems depend on a security handshake between the computers. you can shove anything into anything depending on how big your bottle of aspirin is....let us know how it goes. Regards, James1 point -
95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap
90sEraWhips reacted to Michael Savage for a topic
Wiring seems easy tuning isn't a big deal since it's OBD2 and I have rebuilt axles at the shop before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point -
Where exactly is the CPS sensor on the 1990 Chevy Lumina 3.1 Vin T engine?
90sEraWhips reacted to carkhz316 for a topic
I was gonna share my couple experiences, but this write-up pretty much covers the same: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/16057-crankshaft-position-sensor-tutorial1 point -
W-body engine pull
90sEraWhips reacted to DefEddie for a topic
Update for tips and tricks on pulling the whole assembly out from underneath.1 point -
any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful
90sEraWhips reacted to mike_lumina92 for a topic
yeah, i got a magna flow muffler and dual exhuasts at the muffler shop already paid for, i jus need to take time to go get them put on, tune up and cold air intake will these make it noticably faster or powerfull1 point -
any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful
90sEraWhips reacted to Addicted To Boost for a topic
Give it a full tuneup, a cold air intake, and some Magnaflow muffler(s).1 point -
3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap
90sEraWhips reacted to thunderbirdrob for a topic
3.4 easiest bolt it in and go. if your not in a hurry do the 3.81 point -
3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap
90sEraWhips reacted to White93z34 for a topic
3400 as far as simplicity will be almost a direct swap. there are a few things that need to be changed but it would be hands down the most straightforward a 3800 would be a little more involved, but again fairly straightforward.1 point -
3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap
90sEraWhips reacted to Euro for a topic
Either the 3400 or 3800 swaps wouldn't be very hard. Like Mitch R said, if you choose 3800(*cough* better) then just find a 3800 powered Lumina LTZ, and the wiring and swap would be pretty straight forward. 3400 would be easy too, since the 3100 is the same damn motor1 point -
3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap
90sEraWhips reacted to Dark Ride for a topic
a 3800 out of a lumina LTZ would seem like an easy swap in your case, plus there is alot more aftermarket for the 3800. Plus the potential for a Turbo kit.1 point -
W-body engine pull
90sEraWhips reacted to TurboSedan for a topic
i always leave my PS pump in the engine bay when i pull the drivetrain. just unbolt it from the front timing cover and set it aside.1 point -
W-body engine pull
90sEraWhips reacted to Brian P for a topic
You'll still have an oil pressure switch there for the dummy light on the gage cluster. Once in there you won't necessarily see the bolts. With the starter out, you'll see the back face of the flexplate. You need to manually turn the engine and stop when the bolts come into view. There's 3 of them, 120 degrees apart. I rotate the engine using a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley/dampener bolt. Turn clockwise of course. I don't have a pic of this but I'll look around. Yeah I was thinking of trying one of those cams too! I saw your thread on there, I'm on that forum as "Rhedalert". I did a basic tuning method like you suggested, except I went from 3100 settings to 3400 settings. This got me closer. (I have since gone to a 3400 file anyway) I'm hoping we get a 3500 file to view (though I'm just about done with tuning, just curious how the 3500 settings are), but things tend to take a LONG time over there to get anything. I waited over 4 months from the time I purchased the PT to the time I was able to TUNE my Olds. It's tough to get the ball rolling quickly over there if you don't have a 3800, but patience is the key and it will happen.1 point -
W-body engine pull
90sEraWhips reacted to Brian P for a topic
I have a few minutes at this moment. That lower mount, all you need to do is crawl under the car, and remove the 2 retaining nuts keeping the mount onto its "cup" on the frame. Other things to do.... Bottom: - unbolt AC compressor from bracket and set aside - Remove starter - Remove flexplate-to-torque converter bolts (accessible once starter is removed. You will have to turn the engine manually at the crank pulley to get at all 3) - Disconnect exhaust downpipe (preferred), or unbolt crossover and remove rear exhaust manifold. - Remove right side transmission-to-engine block retaining bolts (I usually just remove the 2 bolts going into the trans diff cone area, and leave the bracket bolted to the engine block) Over: - All hoses including upper, lower, and 2 heater hoses (nearest the throttle body - Remove cables from TB or just unbolt the TB and set it aside - Undo two fuel lines with special quick disconnect tool - Get all accessories out of the way - Unbolt P/S pump and set aside - Remove alternator (preference of mine for added space) keep the bracket bolted to the engine - Disconnect engine wiring harness that goes to the EGR, Throttle body, igniton module, MAP sensor, Oxygen sensor, injector harness, etc and set aside - *** Disconnect knock sensor and oil pressure sensor wiring (You don't want to pull these apart accidentally) - remove crossover heat shield and crossover (optional for added space to get to the bellhousing bolts) - undo bellhousing bolts, disconnect 2 ground wires attached to 2 of these bolts *** ONE Bellhousing bolt in the BACK of the motor is facing the OTHER direction. You can only access this from the passenger side of the car. I usually use a long 1/2" extension and get at it by feel from the passenger side fenderwell. - Support transmission from the bottom with a jack, or jackstand (use a big piece of wood to prevent gouging the pan) - lift up evenly, be sure motor mount lifts out of its cup first, then shake the engine free from the tranny. I may have missed some so I'll add as I think about it.1 point