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Got her running boys!! Not only that, she runs tip top again!! It was timing all along. Fabbed some tools in my father in laws shop to replicate those in the Kent moore kit and worked like a charm. A big thank you to those who offered help and guidance through my first real foray into the 3.4L dohc joys and frustrations. It's been better than 12 yrs since my z34 and I never tackled projects like gaskets or timing on it. This is really a great group!!

It had to be saved, it was going to the Jawas otherwise. All Jiggity57`s fault for posting it. I got into a bit of a race the other day when I probably shouldnt have. I made a right turn and immediately found a speeding BMW attempting to swerve around me from a sharp corner in the right lane. I laid into the pedal a bit, chirped the tires and heard an awesome turbo wastegate PAHHTISHHHHH and left the kraut cart far into the rearview mirror. Scared the hell out of me and blew the lower hose off the turbo in the process. I love this freakin` car! Decades after WW2 and we can still put the Messerschmitt`s in their place, just not in a P51 Mustangs.

Each of the intake manifolds design is unique to the upper plenum assembly. If one wants to swap the intake manifold to or from the earlier design then one must also swap the upper plenum assembly.

Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!

Little update, we got it tuned pretty good just having trouble making boost. Fixed a couple leaky intercooler pipes and it takes forever to build boost. Thinking maybe the 2 1/2 is too big for the turbo piping, probably will go to 2 inch. We have cam to put in which will help aswell. More vids coming soon

I just picked up a 93 vert last fall. I owned a 90 coupe as my first car back in highschool over 20 years ago. I've always wanted a convertible version since I first saw one. Now I do. lol She has a little damage from the previous owner which I've almost got all fixed but she's rust free with only 89k on the clock. The only pic i have right now is from the day I got her.

Supposedly you can gain a bit of power on the top end due to the intake being better designed. The downside is its a major pain in the ass to pull off properly, and even then it doesn't really fit the earlier engines well. not worth the trouble in my opinion.

I tried to do this as well probably back in 2010 or so. I couldn't find the parts I needed. So I just replaced the gaskets and moved on. I'd imagine finding the parts today would be very difficult.

I remember hearing it was worth it and wanting to do it back in the day on my cutlass but it was a pain finding everything at the yards. To put it into perspective I sold the cutlass 15 years ago.

Ehh, I dont hate it but it sort of looks funny being the only "chrome" on the car. Might have looked better above the tail light instead. It has little lines going through it like retro things did back then that match the grids in the tail lights and ribs in the bumpers in a very OCD friendly way.

I have an engine support bar ordered to try to make things as easy as possible. I’m adding subframe bushings to the project, too, along with a new trans pan gasket and filter swap. I don’t need to drive the car so I might as well do as much as I can!

I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.

I feel your pain but if it were my car, I would just drop the pan. I haven't done this on a 3.1 car as I own LQ1 cars but it's not a bad job really. Just make sure to clean everything well and you might as well put a new gasket on it. There are instructions in my manuals that require torque for the gasket and the metal tabs in certain areas of the perimeter of the pan flange. You'll also want to add dabs of silicone sealant in the corners of the pan where it goes up and around the crankshaft, etc. Again, the manual recommends this.

Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.

Great news!

You're welcome.

Pics? Though Ive got a feeling I know the part being referred too. IIRC its called run channel if its the slotted piece the glass makes contact with on the sides of the "window regulator". It could "possibly" be some universal stuff that solidified over time that just looks like plastic. Hey is this at the front A pillar side of the glass near the mirrors or against the rear part of the door glass closer to the handle? I`m thinking of 2 different parts now.

I've broken a rod end on the driver's side hydraulic ram for the convertible top. It broke off cleanly at the end of the shaft, saving the threads, but the "collar" still remains on the rod end. Any good tricks on how to screw this off without really messing stuff up? There's not much room to work...and I'd rather avoid tearing the interior panels off if I can avoid it. Thanks!

not sure how i missed this before, but nice grab!

I am looking for a Coolant Level sensor that mounts onto the radiator on the top left side of the radiator. I was able to find one NOS GM part made by AC DELCO at a Chevy Dealership last year. I replaced it a couple months ago and the low coolant light is still on. I was hoping the sensor would shut off the light like it should when the coolant is not low. The reason why I replaced it in the first place was because the low coolant light kept going on and off. It must have had a short circuit in it. I replaced the sensor in 2020 when the low coolant light was on then and the light never came back on. The light came back last year and I thought maybe it was the sensor again like before because the coolant is staying full but the light is still on saying coolant is low. After I replaced it the light never went out and the coolant is full. GM has discontinued this part number by GM 14094922. It was suspended to part number 8859353. I was going to purchase one of the remaining ones off ebay. But none of the sellers will offer free returns if the sensor is defective and has to be returned. So I was wondering if anything aftermarket that is reliable has the sensor available so I can get warranty. Keep in mind those parts on ebay are nos. They can't replace it if the part is defective out of the box because they aren't available to get an replacement.

You don't "need" a scantool, necessarily, Its a 93' its not that smart in the first place. Qucik and dirty oldschool should get you pointed in the direction. These methods served me well for years. I'm saying this as someone who owns all the diagnostic equipment at this point in my life. Are the plugs fuel fouled? if they are that's a problem, New or not if they are soaked in gasoline they won't do much, pull it out if its wet and smells like gas then yeah Do you have injector pulse? One bad injector can bring the other 5 down with it. Its not uncommon for them to fail as the cars get older and older. To check it, pull the cover off the fuel rail, unplug an injector any injector. get yourself a 194 lamp unfold the leads and stuff them in the injector harness, does it flash while cranking? if it does plug the injector back in and move to another of the front 3 and repeat, this will rule out the one you just disconnected as being bad Make sure the battery is up to the task, the ECM won't run under ~9v or so. is the tachometer needle moving when you're cranking if not its an indication that the crank sensor could be bad Check fuel pressure, put a small flat blade screwdriver to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, do you get a forceful ejection of gasoline with the depression while the key is on? its probably ok pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, does fuel come out of it? if so thats a problem. if you happen to have a small hand vacuum pump pull a vacuum on the regulator if it won't hold any vacuum, thats also a problem Next lets get into the weeds a bit more, the map sensor is located behind the upper intake, is everything connected properly, if its unplugged the car won't start Coolant temp sensor is it connected, if its unplugged it thinks the coolant temp is around -40 or -50 degrees and can often lead to flooding and not starting I mean you did a heap of work to the car do a general sanity check to make sure nothing you did could have caused it. Hope this helps.

I don't know if I would use a media blaster on those vents. That could damage them. When I had my 1st gen GP and I added some vents. I took them to a shop that specializes in corvettes. They were able to repair them. I had a few broken mount points and a cracks. Plastics can be tricky to paint. I would try a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Lift-Off-TESF542143-Plastics/dp/B000BQSKQE/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.D26tQF1wV1qdtPU_fCc6S1cn9VBRfVsiKvTkIvtLwO9Xj7KES-1xXQxJ47Qq9lgH1ugikOWGfMueBW5LLxjLesyeN_NSvIv7HVASJKH7TeneFQvPTkj1Xc_Kce2XXeGcm59pzmpIDTG6SzAY6cy2gwWUDI5E3v6v3644kHnJiOR8TK7U8zbG5TwaNg_efrjf9nQocukymTJAwYQnMmLw9yzk1V0c6XBz0e4w9LdMYIHpS-FXEf3ERYySGoZ2Vc5M7rTt9zgP_uWqfwzXC_vpF0ttHWBVNKVtMINh4rRZl4U.xETHwFlqmrxsYAfmsAfwXOaFbWvaTM5EgMQJmR4OmAU&dib_tag=se&keywords=paint+remover+for+plastic&qid=1711146143&sr=8-5 Try a test spot and hopefully it's not too aggressive with the vent. The clear coat left a lightning bolt pattern? Could have just been the clear coat reacting weird to the base layers of paint. I've had it happen and it sucks.

I have a very similar issues on my jet ski, with metal screws and plastic mounts. I slammed into a wave pretty hard and broke the tabs. Luckily I was able to get the hood vent cover out of the lake. Looks like I know what to use for the repair now.

I need to fix the hood vents on my Grand Prix but one of the problems is a couple posts have broken and I'm not entirely sure how to fix that.

Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again

She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.

Do not use the flexible bumper repair stuff, it doesnt hold at all. As soon as I screwed the vent back down it all seperated and I could peel the urethane off clean. So now I`m going to strip it and try again, might do the other just to be sure they match. I used Gorilla glue gel to re-attach the unobtanium and ran a mounting screw down the glued on provision and it all held very nice. Let it cure for 24 hours.

Low coolant light was lit up on my '92 for a couple of years. Then it went out. I wouldn't guarantee that it's the sender at fault. Could just as easily be the wire harness with bare wire, or a fault in the instrument cluster. I would absolutely verify the harness before I crammed-in another sensor, whether from GM or an aftermarket sensor from a local parts store.

Glad you got this TGP! It is really clean looking. I'll take a look for a grill. I used to have one.

I finally did this repair myself last night. I thought it was funny that we were talking about this 10 years ago! Summit still sells the same part with the same part number. Thank you so much for figuring this out and sharing how you did it, it saved me a bunch of time and money. I left my cylinder attached to the car to do the repair. I struggled with getting the broken end off the cylinder rod for a little while before I realized that I could move the rod end up and down into a better position by latching the convertible top in the up position, and just pushing the "up" and "down" buttons. I know this seems obvious, but I never push the up and down buttons with the top latched and didn't think of it until I watched a youtube video. The good cylinder on the other side is held in place and the hydraulic pressure change just moves the cylinder with the broken end up and down. I put a pair of vice grips wrapped with cardboard on the shaft and the broken end spun off easily with another pair of pliers. I used locktite on the new heim joint, because you can't tighten it very well and have it still lined with with the bracket. I also was careful to not drop the nut down into the body, as I'd read about a guy on w-body doing that in another thread. I just want to say I love this forum so much, my car broke and I fixed it for $5. A body shop would have probably charged me a bazillion dollars for a whole new cylinder assembly and labor.

Check the hoses. I've had several 1G W-bodies, including my current '88 CS. They all had issues with the rear passenger side going through pads and the calipers seizing. My CS regularly smoked brakes. I replaced the master cylinder, calipers in the rear and did a full bleed on the system. Still locked up. Metal lines were intact and in good shape. Turns out, the hose was bad! Collapsed when pressure was taken off and the caliper would only release pressure when I opened the bleed screw. Replace all of your hoses. You can even find steel-braided ones at hawkbrakesdirect.com. just have to look up the 94 Z34.

Incase anyone searches and wants the answer to this.... Yes it possible to bolt a 2nd gen subframe to the 1st gen. However there is some Modification needed to the front mounting bolts and some spacers needed to lower the subframe height. Miko k did the swap into his old 96 cutlass. He detailed it in his thread in the members ride section.

Gen1 control arms are bolted to the K frame, and our struts are martian. Swapping the Gen2 frame, doesn't that mean that the whole suspension has to be reworked? I remember Miko's car... that thing was all modded up.

If anyone is wondering, these are still holding up great. Just like the day I put them in.

Milzy Moto says he can do the swap for $5000 so it is possible to make it work and rite. Can't afford $5000 so IDE do it myself. He said for that swap you have to change over most every part controlled by the PCM over. He said virtually you have to make it think it's an 06. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's even worse, some of the newer E and P series PCMs can be programmed with HPTuners or EFI Live but even with PASSKEY disabled they won't initiate until they get a signal via data from the BCM that tells the PCM to start, and the BCM won't send it until it sees the ignition switch cycle properly. I had that issue with my buddies L32 a couple years ago and we got so sick of it's erratic behavior we ran it with an L67 7977 PCM. I had a lot of time into that bastard! In the end I repinned the PCM plugs on an F-Body L36 harness and added the tranny, , MAP and Boost solenoid so it would fit the car the way I wanted it too.

They're not talking about the VATS key, they're talking about Passkey 3 or whatever number it was on when the 3900 came out. The newer cars required the BCM to communicate with the PCM/ECU in order to have all systems go. If you take out that link between the PCM and the BCM then the car will be disabled. The thing with the newer systems is that the VIN gets communicated between each system, and if there's no match or if there's an issue then the security is triggered. Everything nowadays is controlled by it. Speedo, odometer, fuel pump, etc. and one small hiccup, the whole car is stranded. You may have to have the BCM and the PCM and bridge that to make it work with your 95's electronics.

If I can rebuilt a 3900 for $600 and get the transmission for $80 what would I have to do to make it work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup I know lol that's what did when I changed to the cutlass block and Transmission Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wiring seems easy tuning isn't a big deal since it's OBD2 and I have rebuilt axles at the shop before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3900 should be an easy drop in I know it's the 3800 combined with the 3400. With a little different internal setup with the heads. I wanna go with the Gas model not the flex fuel(waaaayyyyy to much work in that) but if I build it I'm gonna make it better than factory specs like my 3100, and this time max out the valve sizes. Then after it's ready gonna do a full XADO treatment on the Engine and Tranny. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so will the Aluminum cradle fit gen 1 and 1.5 cars?

Finally got this fixed. On my way down through Georgia, just south of Atlanta is a Summit Racing Equipment store. They had the rod ends. Mild steel, rated at over 9,000 pounds. They're a bit meatier than the originals, but fit just fine. You'll have to discard the plastic bushings used on the original rod end, these have metal spherical inserts, rather than a large hole for a plastic bushing. Be sure to use Locktite on the threads, as the cylinder rod can rotate, and over time loosen the rod ends. 3/8-24 female thread for the cylinder rod, 3/8 hole for the top bolt. Summit Racing Equipment Part # SUM-MSF6 Cost $4.88 each

WHO??? LOL yeah. I have three frame swaps scheduled right now, actually!!!!!!!!

Ah! Finally got it out! Turns out that left side bracket... well if you unbolt it from the trans, there are 2 bolts. But if you unbolt it from the block, there are 2 bolts towards the top, and 1 down towards the bottom of the engine. I did not see this 1 lower bolt! So about 5 hours of fighting for that. After I undid that, it came right out.

I have been told that everyone swaps their covers because accessories don't fit correctly on the 3500's (including the PS pump). When everything is out and in front of me, if it looks like it will work then I will use it. The cover had to come off anyways for the cam so no biggie.

Yay now I have a sticky on both forums! Is there anything bad about turning it the other way? While I was getting my crank pulley off my 3500 I think I turned it the other way a few times Here is my thread on the Powrtuner forums for those who have access http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=6093 I am basically being told now that my 96 PCM is no good for tuning, and that I can directly swap in a 97 PCM to give me more tuning options.

We could add this to FAQ later once all discussion is done. If someone wants to do a write-up of dropping the entire cradle for swapping engines, I'll make it a sticky as well.

I have a few minutes at this moment. That lower mount, all you need to do is crawl under the car, and remove the 2 retaining nuts keeping the mount onto its "cup" on the frame. Other things to do.... Bottom: - unbolt AC compressor from bracket and set aside - Remove starter - Remove flexplate-to-torque converter bolts (accessible once starter is removed. You will have to turn the engine manually at the crank pulley to get at all 3) - Disconnect exhaust downpipe (preferred), or unbolt crossover and remove rear exhaust manifold. - Remove right side transmission-to-engine block retaining bolts (I usually just remove the 2 bolts going into the trans diff cone area, and leave the bracket bolted to the engine block) Over: - All hoses including upper, lower, and 2 heater hoses (nearest the throttle body - Remove cables from TB or just unbolt the TB and set it aside - Undo two fuel lines with special quick disconnect tool - Get all accessories out of the way - Unbolt P/S pump and set aside - Remove alternator (preference of mine for added space) keep the bracket bolted to the engine - Disconnect engine wiring harness that goes to the EGR, Throttle body, igniton module, MAP sensor, Oxygen sensor, injector harness, etc and set aside - *** Disconnect knock sensor and oil pressure sensor wiring (You don't want to pull these apart accidentally) - remove crossover heat shield and crossover (optional for added space to get to the bellhousing bolts) - undo bellhousing bolts, disconnect 2 ground wires attached to 2 of these bolts *** ONE Bellhousing bolt in the BACK of the motor is facing the OTHER direction. You can only access this from the passenger side of the car. I usually use a long 1/2" extension and get at it by feel from the passenger side fenderwell. - Support transmission from the bottom with a jack, or jackstand (use a big piece of wood to prevent gouging the pan) - lift up evenly, be sure motor mount lifts out of its cup first, then shake the engine free from the tranny. I may have missed some so I'll add as I think about it.

Actually, I have all the part #'s! Cutlass Supreme 88-94 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88-89 FE1 = 26044830 (same as above) 89.5-91 FE1 = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 92-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X FE3 = 26042018 95-96 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26047206 (AC #36-9042) 96 3.4X FE3 = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 97 3.4X, 3.1M = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 97 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26055475 (AC #36-9163) Lumina (didn't get as detailed on Lumina) 90-94 Z34, F41 = AC #36-9021 90-94 FE1 14" tires = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 95-96 F41 = AC# 36-9023 95-96 FE1 = AC #36-9024 97 L82, LQ1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98-99 FE1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) 99 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) Grand Prix 88 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88 FE1 = 26024892 89 FE3 1st design = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP, and others 89 FE3 2nd design = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 89 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26021781 1st design 90 FE3 = 26044830 2nd design (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP??? 91 FE3 = 26044830, FE3 STE (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 coupe = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 91 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.1T = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92 3.1T FE3 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 92-93 3.4X 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92-93 FE1, FE3, 3.1T = AC #36-9023 94-96 3.1M, FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 94-95 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 94 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3 = 26042018 95-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3, NV7 (variable assist) = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 96 3.4X FE3 26047207 (AC #36-9043) I didn't get any rack part #'s for Regal, but I assume it wouldn't be likely to have a quick ratio rack. It looks like the better rack available for Cutlass Supreme FE3 is the same as the base model FE1 rack used in Grand Prix. It's pretty simple until 94+ when GM used many different racks for different engines and different years. I focused more detail on GP racks, because they obviously have the more performance-oriented rack selection. I know the TGP has a very quick ratio rack (36-9020) but I wonder how it compares to 36-9021. Also I wonder if any of the newer variable assist racks are quick ratio or not.