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Wanted to update this topic. The lubricate spray appears to have solved the issue and is holding up the conditions it is being exposed to. Thanks to all who have helped!

Should be 2 or 3 bolts on the seat bottom facing the rear of the front seats. Remove the bottom seat cushion and then you will see the bolts that hold the back seat cushion on.

Actually its been holding up great. I've got over 20k miles on the swap now over 2 years. Nothing major, a couple ripped cv boots which may be because they were junkyard sourced. I highly recommend adding a HTOB spacer. ZZP sells them for around $50. Sits behind the HTOB and moves it closer to the clutch by 1/4" for earlier engagement and longer life. Aside from engineering the trans mount, the hardest part is getting the clutch pedal mounted and situated. The pedal arm needs to be cut & welded into proper position as well. As far as the mount, the low-profile mount I fabbed up works great. Only modification I made was adding rubber bushings under the nuts at the bottom to further insulate the mount from the frame. On an aluminum subframe, it might have to be done a bit different. Might be able to drill two holes and bolt it in the same way, but I haven't been hands-on with an 04+ subframe so I can't say for sure. I'm not a fan of the modified 4T65E bracket method that requires tubular control arms as the mount sits outside the frame. An extra $650 that could be spent elsewhere. There really are half a dozen ways you could fab up a mount but I can say for sure the one I made does the job. 3/16 steel plate holds up well so far. I have also just finished taking the time to document the changes to the tune that are highly recommended for a manual swap: Idle speeds in-gear changed to match P/N as its going to be wired to be in D at all times now. ( I actually added a toggle switch to change between forcing it in D or P, since P is needed for a crank relearn procedure if you need it) DTC codes changed And finally zeroing out all the auto trans stuff:

Locks cycling just means part of the receiver is okay. Doesn't necessarily mean it's receiving a signal correctly. I've had bad ones do that too. Although it's definitely easier to rule it in or out with multiple fobs.

Unfortunately, they are indeed Xmas tree type. I used a standard trim panel puller to remove them. I was able to reuse mine after pulling, but it's possible they lost some strength after pulling.

If it's a coupe, it's where @Black92GS showed a few posts up. If a sedan, on the back deck as @jiggity76 shows. Regal coupes had a much smaller rear deck due to the more vertical backglass. Top is sedan, bottom is coupe.

No problem. Pay attention when ordering a replacement though, as there seems to be different part numbers based on whether the car has column or console shift, and whether it has steering wheel controls. The key fob not working is highly likely to be bad solder joints in the keyless entry module. There is a write up on here about repairing them. Extremely common issue!

That would be the turn signal switch. Not terribly hard to replace, but you do need to pull the airbag, the steering wheel, the clock spring and the lock plate to get to it. Sounds like the Brake shift interlock is acting up. What I can't recall is whether the turn signal switch issue that causes the left/right brake lights to not illuminate correctly also causes issues with the shift interlock not releasing like it should. I'll let someone else chime in regarding that.

Brakes maintenance = experienced personnel

Indeed it is........ both the primary & secondary fans will engage. The low pressure sensor engages the entire system when the system is above approx 40lbs, the compressor does NOT cycle, once engaged it runs 100% of the time the a/c is turned on (depending on the volume of system charge).

Yep, I've also read it's not reversible, which is pretty annoying to have to clean it with alcohol all the time. It's been out of the sun for the last 5-years, but the damage is already done. Also gets pretty hot in the garage and I'm sure that doesn't help. Only permanent-ish solution I could really think of is to have it wrapped in color-matched leather. Might look nice if professionally done. Only thing is if leather needs to be glued down, it wouldn't stick for long if the vinyl underneath keeps sweating. Maybe it would need to have the vinyl stripped off, then built up and sculpted with some other material to the right shape so that part can be leather-wrapped. Sounds like very high cost. Other parts of the car would need attention before I go to that extent to fix it though.

New carpet next to the old one for comparison. This is just a test piece as the cut pile option no longer has graphite available to match the old carpet. The original carpet had alot more padding under it too, the Vert seemed to have twice as much. Its just a basic carpet pad easily found anywhere they sell carpet. This task is going to be alot like laying carpet on a spindle staircase with a shift lever and at least 20+ bolt and clip holes/slits that will need to line up perfectly or you`ll have lumps and wrinkles.

The #50 torx tip is needed to stop the piston shaft from rotating in the shock housing while undoing & tightening up the the retaining nut. As I stated earlier some aftermarket shocks no longer make use of a torx design for the socket interface at the top end of the piston shaft. Spinning the piston shaft with an impact gun is not desirable. Doing so with the outgoing shock is alright but no so with the new shock.

I don't remember having any shift interlock issues when my turn signal switch was bad...but I don't usually put it into gear less than a few seconds after startup and that was about 7 years ago.

I've never been able to SEE the bad solder joints, and I think the glossy conformal coating would probably hide them if there were some. I've always just cleaned off the coating and resoldered the joints anyway. That's always worked. I think most people who have done it had the same experience.

Thanks that diagram helps. Got my neighbor to help. Putting these photos up for anyone else that finds this thread. Two red clips at the top of door, one white xmas tree clip, and a clip on the inside of the car that requires you pull the panel forward to release.

Yeah, I hate those one time use clips. I don't have the factory service manual, only parts catalogs, but there appear to be no fasteners for that part other than one staple (#3) towards the bottom. Not sure if that staple has to come out. It looks like the same annoying clip setup my Cutlass Supreme has along the top edge. If I recall the metal clip parts have sharp barbs and dig into the plastic, so some wear to the plastic happens every time you pull it. If the plastic tabs don't break off, they usually go back on and fit well enough, but it's not something you want to have to pull often. Looks like something near the top of the quarter glass and I'd guess that's an xmas tree type clip.

That's interesting. My bad...I thought they were all in the same location. My Cutlass coupe is also in the back shelf area. The rear glass is allowing more space for it I'm sure than a Regal coupe.

The receivers are mounted up in the back glass shelf area. The upper rear seatback needs to come out...which means the shelf also needs to come out. Then, to get the shelf out, you have to pull the rear quarter glass interior plastics that go around the glass. GM layered these pieces. Here's my 93 Grand Prix STE sedan. It won't be identical, but it will be the same process and in the same location. That black box up against the rear glass...that's the receiver.

It's actually a very easy install. I did it on my '91 Cutlass Supreme coupe on my lunch hour from work. If you're going with an aftermarket head unit, be sure to spring the extra few dollars for the wiring harness adapter, which allows a plug-and-play connection between the new radio and the car, without cutting any wires. You can easily do the installation in under an hour. When I was married, it made a fun afternoon project with my then-stepdaughter to replace the dead radio in her mom's Jeep Grand Cherokee. I taught her how to use a soldering iron as part of the process, and she had a great sense of accomplishment when we turned it on and put in her favorite CD to test it out.

Like the title says, I am a new member now, but I was a fairly regular member here around 15-20 years ago. My screen name at that time was Regal_GS_1989. I originally owned an 89 Regal GS coupe, a 92 Cutlass International Coupe, and finally a 2000 Regal Sedan. Life got busy, I stopped posting regularly, and the 2000 was sold off about 10 years ago for something newer and more family friendly. Time has marched on, and I am now in a position where I have the time and resources to be able to own a “weekend” vehicle. As luck, or possibly fate would have it, this beauty quite literally fell into my lap at the perfect moment… A 92 Regal GS Coupe. Black, Grey leather interior, low milage, One owner, garage kept its entire life, ordered new with every option box checked off…save for the sunroof. It’s truly worthy of the term survivor, and it’s exactly how I would have ordered one myself back in the day. Gotta say…it feels sort of strange to be back here posting again about a 1st gen coupe…but I can get used to that I am also surprised at how many screen names I still recognize as well!

It’s been just a little over a year now since I got the Regal…so what better way to celebrate that than with some more recent pictures. Nothing much visually has changed except for the refinished wheels and new tires…which was a fairly large, yet subtle change on its own. My intent is to keep the car as stock as possible, and to keep it up to snuff mechanically to be used as a reliable, fair weather cruiser. And to shake things up…. This is the final picture I ever took of my 89 GS before it was parked for good in summer of 2008.

'99 GP is the same suspension platform as the '02..........you'll be SOL

Please post some pictures or a video so we can see what is going wrong?

Are you absolutely positive that there is not a rusted out/broken, brake line, hose or caliper? I know it has low miles but what you describe sounds way more like a break in the system then a failed master Treat it like any other master cylinder, bench bleed it, install it it has a couple extra bleeders on the master, start there and then work from the back to front. a Vacuum bleeder would make it easier.

Hey! Had my beautiful GTP for bit now and I am just wondering on the available for transmission rebuild kits for the MT. I know I remember seeing they were like basically impossible to get a long time ago but does anyone know of any that have been manufactured again? For the record it is the 3.4L DOHC V6 with a 5 speed, coupe, the only option it came in I believe. I would also like to learn some more about it if anyone has some random facts haha.

Hello all you w body guys! Here is my 2003 Monte Carlo with a 3.6 and 6t70 swap! If you guys have any questions feel free to ask!

Unfortunately I'm pretty sure things have not gotten any better in the last 5 or so years. Worse at best I suppose.

awesome!

My nephew and took her out last night and he's working on making content for the interwebz. A few of the better pics he took at the same place I took the convertible years ago. Unfortunately the P side rear caliper seized up and cooked the nearby rubber parts. That and most of the rear suspension is crispy from being up in Jersey so shes parked for now while the parts roll in.

When measuring across from clip to clip... All 3 on the coupe are 55" on the money, On the Vert they are all 54 1/2, this will also make the carpet lay funny unless trimmed.

For replacement bulbs, might I suggest Sylvannia Cool White 194 LED,s they realy brighten it up without overdoing it. These bulbs are not cheap, about $8 each but are much better than those cheap ones you get in a bag.

yeah I like both of those. I can’t help but think of the early 2000s Cadillacs that had LEDs for the rear taillights and brake lights that were more…crystallized? Only way I can think of to describe it. I really liked how those looked. Not the best picture I could find but I really liked the way these looked.

Personally I'd rather look for as many needed bottles of AC DELCO ATF Type III (H) which one can still purchase today, it IS GM's designated fluid for all older transmissions that used Dexron II or Dexron III (H).

Also, just a bit of a warning. If a trans fluid/filter change is in the books, it might be a good idea to insist that they use dexron /mercon fluid, instead of DexVI or something like Valvoline MaxLife. You can't get licensed Dexron III these days, so the Dex/Merc fluids that state they are for older GM and Ford vehicles are going to be the closest you can get. I have a 1992 Regal that is fairly low milage (currently under 72k KMs) that still had its original trans fluid in it. It was due for a change, but otherwise everything was functioning as it should. I did a pan drop, changed the filter, and re-filled with Valvoline MaxLife. Got the levels set, and everything seemed great. In short order though, I was dealing with a downshift issue into 1st. Essentially, when the vehicle went into lockup before the trans was fully warmed up, slowing down to the point where 1st would engage resulted in the trans acing as if it were in neutral. Even the increased line pressure in manual 1st. wasn't enough to engage it. You could shift to Neutral and back into Drive though, and it would act exactly as expected, so I simply worked around it and shifted into Neutral while slowing down, then back into Drive just before coming to a stop. The more I dug into the issue, the more I realized that the MaxLife was likely the cause, as older transmissions don't necessarily play nice with the much lower viscosity of MaxLife. I just recently pumped out 4.5 quarts of trans fluid and replaced it with Dex/Merc, and on the first test drive the issue was nearly eliminated. My plan now is to drive it a little bit more, then pump it out and refill again to get as much out as possible. I will be sticking with Dex/Merc from now on for this one.

The lack of cross braces is a series 1 3800 thing. I have yet to see a 1st gen Regal with a series 1 3800 have them. Regals with the 3.1 and 3100s had them, as did the 96s with the series 2 3800. No clue as to why it’s that way though.

There ARE strut cartridges that when replaced, need some oil-bath. Apparently, the W-body ones don't. OR the service manual is wrong. Can you get access to a later-model-year manual?

Step #8 says remove the oil so i removed the oil when I replaced my cartridges. Do whatever you want I don't think it really matters.

What do you think of this? I don’t know why the shop manual doesn’t say this. I’ve watched a video on YouTube where a guy doing one of these said to keep some oil in there because you have to coat the new cartridge 1/2. So he removed some and said if he had to put some back in you would do it with the suction. The guy mentioned the oil cools down the heat of the strut cartridge so it don’t overheat. Was he right ? I don’t know why the manual didn’t mention this. Don’t want it to overheat the cartridge. But that’s what I hear people done before over the years. Watch 5:40 to 7:35

The OEM strut has loose oil inside. You'd remove ALL of it to the best of your ability. The replacement cartridge is a different design, that doesn't need oil inside the housing. Remove the oil, drop the new cartridge into the housing, put it together just like the manual says.

If one updates the older caliper to the newer design one must also make use of the later rotor for the 94+ caliper. One cannot mix & match *old* with *new*.

First Gen rear calipers: DO NOT "turn the piston" to wind them back in. This is possible, but it's a waste of effort, and a waste of time. REMOVE the park brake lever (one nut, and washer) Push the piston STRAIGHT IN, (I use a vice-grip C-clamp) the threaded rod spins instead of the piston. Re-connect park brake lever once the piston is retracted. Don't forget to reset the park brake by applying it several times after the rear brakes are reassembled.

I did the 94 swap on my cars 100% for the sake of reliability, nothing else. the rear cables are different, but the front one still works as does the pedal the rub is there is a bracket spot welded to the rear frame rail, drivers side that needs to be drilled out and swapped with one from a donor car. I wanna say I just used self tapping sheet metal screws to put the new bracket on my car, not ideal and one of these days I should go back and weld it on now that I have the ability but its been holding up fine since I did the swap in 2008 or 2009

I've found a shop that will do the front strut cartridges, and as an added bonus, by sheer dumb luck I located and bought an ADDCO 474 rear sway bar which they will also install. I gave up looking for one of these years ago but while looking for something else on Amazon I stumbled on just one they had in stock. Its now in my garage waiting to be installed. I just placed in another post regarding the front strut tower brace being 2 different 3.4 versions and I was wondering if anyone had ever seen the version wherein it's bent in 2 spots to account for the intake manifold.. I need to get another one of these 3.4 bars as the one on the car now will probably be no good as its mangled up and will more than likely fall apart.

Please take 55trucker's advice seriously. I will be doing the timing chain on both of my W's. Not nearly as many miles as yours but chains do stretch and it all begins with the chain. My 91 LQ1 International coupe is not running. The dealer is saying it's due to the chain being off. I've retimed everything already thru the belt but since the chain is off, it doesn't matter, mine still won't run after the fact.

At THAT many miles I do not suggest cutting corners on the process of servicing the timing belt. If you skip the process of releasing the camshaft cogs then you cannot properly retime the cams to crankshaft because of the now stretched timing chain. At 240,000 miles I'd be servicing the timing chain as well, but that's not easy to do.

Need to be able to read the sensors. Need either something like a OTC 2000 with the 92 or 93 GM cartridge or visit Moates.net for an 'ALDU1 and CABL1' plus the TunerPro RT software.

Well got the timing belt installed today and the intake put back on. It fired right up. I did a tuneup also. Boy does it run good. Got one issue though. Idling the rpms climb up to about 1500-2000 till I Rev it up then it goes normal. But it comes back. Any ideas. It did this before I tore it all apart. Maybe IAC???

Thanks for all the info! I think I'm going with the black pads and start shopping around for replacement springs. I looked art mine closely and the springs are a bit worn at the ends but I'm also concerned with the cross members holding the springs. Aside from being horribly rusted, there's also some bends and twist in them.

There is no difference between FE1 and FE3 subframes or tie rods, so it doesn't matter what rack you use. I have done this job in a parking lot. The return line is available in the aftermarket but it is very difficult to install with the powertrain in the car because the return line is also a cooler and has like six 90* bends and goes all over the subframe. Use bulk hose rated for power steering or transmission lines. Install a plate cooler if you're concerned. Remove the air box. Seperate the steering shaft after loosening the pinch bolt. A pain. Put a jack under the rear of the subframe. Remove the rear subframe bolts and loosen the front ones. Lower the jack a couple inches. Seperate the outer tie rods from the knuckle. Cut the old power steering lines. Remove the two rack bolts to the subframe. Slide the rack out from behind the wheels. Reverse to install. The steering shaft is very frustrating. It will only fit on one way but it is hard to get to. You may need the inner tie rod tool if you don't have a wrench big enough for the inner tie rods.