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A friend of mine bought this off of Ebay and wanted to share it with everyone. Pretty cool historical information of the car's development.

My version of the front brakes looks like this Disc 300mm Opel Astra-J GM 13502051 Caliper 2-piston 45mm Opel Antara / Chevrolet Equinox GM 96625936 - left GM 96625937 - right my version is on the left 1,5gen - on the right Use stock 16inch Wheel The mileage on this version is about 30,000 miles System without abs, stock master cylinder

Super stoked for this one! Just picked up this 93 tonight. One owner Michigan car! Not a spec of rust accept for around the windshield trim! Undercarriage looks virtually new! Has been sitting since 19, so some gremlins to work through! New top, but not a documented time of replacement. Has the usual oil leaks etc, and a horn / headlamp issue. But I am looking forward to getting acquainted with it! I think it’ll be a good pairing for my 95 as well.

It's been a while since I've logged in. I was more of a lurker back in those days... But I'm glad to see the forum is still up and operating!! Happy New Year Everyone!!

x2 on that, but, IMHO I wish they could have made the 2 doors with door handles in the door and not in the B-Pillar. These handles are nothing but headaches. And, the Verts would not have needed a basket handle (?) I'm needing to replace my LH Door handle. Again.

For once I condone a thread being resurrected 22 years after the fact.

It took me 22 years but I finally did do that manual swap

All that work and I ended up dropping and breaking that vent awhile back. Thanks to an extremely generous member here I have a replacement vent. I keep the pair inside packed in a box so I can`t break them without effort. Had an idea and went with it in securing the drip pans and screens. Using some things I had on hand I came up with some brackets that can be removed easily for cleaning or paint. I don't know if it helped or not, but I also used a small wire brush to clean out the posts and put a few drops of silicone lube in them before barely snugging up the mounting screws. Everything holds tight and secure when the hood is open and closed and looks good from the top, underneath maybe different but each side is mirrored to the other to the 1/16" with the exact same parts. It could look better with fabbed up metal stock instead, but the idea works and can be covered with some insulation in the future. It really doesnt look half bad with just the screens and pans, and Ive not even painted those yet. Seems like it could match the front grilles...

My nephew and took her out last night and he's working on making content for the interwebz. A few of the better pics he took at the same place I took the convertible years ago. Unfortunately the P side rear caliper seized up and cooked the nearby rubber parts. That and most of the rear suspension is crispy from being up in Jersey so shes parked for now while the parts roll in.

It worked! Thanks for all the pointers. All I did was reflow the old solder so I left the rear deck cover off for now, the cover was very sun damaged anyway. But at least I have a working key fob now. IMG_7474.mov

Seven years later I finally got to it. Life gets in the way sometimes. It was a splice gone bad on the engine side, orange wire C461. DIC and scan data restored.

She dont look like much kid but she's got it where it counts...

Update. the 9.6121 pads work perfectly. I sprayed them down with silicone during install and not a peep or a squeak out of anything.

I have an f40 trans from an 07 g6 GT as well as a 2006 monte carlo lz9 3900 and will be doing a swap over this winter I will update with details as it goes along

That's OEM m'boy.....no muffler shop involved, the GT coupes that were fitted with the dual exhaust, & the STE's were fitted with that small left side muffler. It was done that way to get needed clearance under the floorpan, you notice that the left side floorpan has no heatshield in place to protect the fuel filler hose & the evap lines, but the right side does have a heatshield. That small muffler is fitted with a strap-on flimsy heat deflector that does literally nothing. If you toss the original rusted out mufflers don't toss the trumpets, keep them, those are near to the point of being unobtanium.

Also of note it looks like this car has the half pop up headlights that this clay model had as well, though it looks like they are taped shut possibly? Ignore the filename, definitely not from 1988.

The automotive news show motorweek holds marathons for their older seasons on Youtube and one of the episodes they played had this spy shot of a Grand Prix prototype that I haven't seen anywhere else. I wonder if they still have the picture in their archives.

Well, from where I stand I would probably look for a 3400 LA1 shortblock, plunk the T-code heads & intake down onto it, & install a custom 3400 T-code engine into the car. I personally wouldn't waste my money on just a T code 3.1

Alright I got it all put back together and it works great now! I used a combination of a plastic welder and jb weld to reattach the plastic guide and it seemed to work great, it was very sturdy. The door trim and weatherstripping wasn’t too bad to deal with. It’s all screws and metal clips. Some stuff has double sided foam tape/pads but it was no issue. Hope some of this info helps. IMG_7911.mov

Finally got around to starting on this project again. The window motor turned out to be really easy. Thanks jiggity for the pointers! Just ignore the shawty grinder job. I’ll paint over it so it doesn’t rust. Now I’ve decided I want to try and fix this guide for the glass. I bought the car with this piece already broken and I suspect this is what caused the original window motor to fail. I super glued it for now but I have access to a plastic welder. I’m assuming a junkyard is the only option for replacing these. Removing the glass was a little more difficult but nothing too crazy, I made sure to be really careful with the trim and metal clips. Luckily everything is still intact. Gonna work on it some more tomorrow and see what happens.

Thank You Needed a win, its been awhile.

That's impressive for a MI car. It must have not have been driven in the winter.

Apparently It’s called a spring plate. If I’m seeing things correctly, it seems like it’s used to attach to lower part of a spring compressor.

How long has it been since the strut bearings were lubricated or replaced?

In the GP it's mounted to the topside of the right rear parcel shelf next to the speaker.

Ended up being a bad fuel pump as a result of a plugged return line, which also killed the fpr, thanks though everyone!

I can't really say. I've done it both ways from a fully functioning factory CD deck to a early 00's era 1.5 din Pioneer and period correct components. I see it both ways, sure pure stock is great and all but I kinda like when cars are a product of the time they were built in as well or even a homage to that time. I mean how many custom cars of that era still have original PS2s integrated into the dashboard As for your specific car, likely a member here would want to buy it and would probably want to continue or at least keep the vision you had for it. I say clean it up, and take some new pictures of it out and about, it was one of my favorite cars when I joined here back in 2004. Still is.

Where just the rears are concerned...... If one wishes to do this one will also need the later design rotors as well (larger diameter), along with the entire parking brake system, that includes the pedal assembly. Where the fronts are concerned one will need the 95-96 front struts that provide for the larger diameter rotors. The calipers remain the same.

When I win the Mega Millions I'm going to produce replacement door handles that don't break. If you would like to support me in this endeavor of spending tons of money on lottery tickets please write me a check.

I honestly believe that you're *overthinking* this situation. these 2 are found on Amazon, the *781* is priced $8 more than the *761*. They cosmetically appear to be identical except for *what I see* the park return lever being a *new* item on the *761* vs a *used reman* item on the *781*, there were no piston dia changes '88 thru'93. As for ACDELCO themselves, I don't feel that they will supply you with an item that will outlast another rebuilders product & much of what ACDELCO supplies comes from Asia or possibly Mexico, I personally lean towards Cardone for my *reman* items. They are American. This leads me to my next question....what has happened to the current caliper other than a piston seizing up or a fluid leak that you feel it is necessary to replace it?

https://web.archive.org/web/20161019020737/http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html I did find that.

I thought this was the W-Body old folks home...