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Just plain white vinegar. Then just sprinkle in salt till you see bubbles. You might not want to do it in a container you care about. The rust could turn it yellow.

Not really sure I'd want to invest in a salt belt car unless it has been treated to a pampered life. an untreated car = rust? = stay away from it where do we begin? Gen 1 car Rocker boxes, bottom of the doors, rear quarters (especially drivers side in & around the fuel filler), rear suspension up behind the fuel tank, rear brake lines, fuel evap piping at rear of vehicle, engine cradle suspension bushings, rear trailing arm chassis boxes, rear bumper rebar, heater core return piping (passenger side in behind wheel), radiator support (bottom of rad), bottom of the front fenders behind wheels, front strut spring seats rot, exhaust rot....... anything else?

I remember seeing years ago a small computer located on the upper drivers side dash in a 95 Grand prix. What was this computer for again and could i install one in mine? Does anyone have one for sale and/or remember what they were called so I can search for them online. Thanks

Sunday around noon, I was coming home from church when a drunk driver rear-ended a Jeep behind me, propelling it into the back of my Impala. It tore off the rear bumper and mashed in the trunk lid and trunk tub. After I pulled over, I found my license plate under the front wheel of the pickup truck that had caused the accident. Thankfully, no one was hurt, not even the drunk. Amazingly, my car was the only one involved that left the scene under its own power. There was no damage to the suspension and it drove and handled just as it had before the accident, albeit with a few more rattles. Nonetheless, it's teetering on the bubble of being totaled. My insurance company is calling in a third-party appraiser to make the final call. With that in mind, I started looking at used cars on Edmunds.com last night, just to see what was available in my area and at what price points. I started out looking at Malibus and Impalas and was disappointed to find that everything with an affordable price had a ton of miles on it and lower mileage cars were priced considerably higher than I was comfortable paying. I was about to close up my laptop and call it a night when I decided to look at Buicks, in particular the Buick LaCrosse. Imagine my surprise when the first listing was for a 2013 model that Edmunds identified as a "Great Deal" at $2,300 below market. It was the only "Great Deal" I looked at all night. The car looked pristine as the CarFAX report and while eating breakfast this morning, I gave the dealer (an independent in a small town about an hour north of me) a call and decided it warranted a visit, even though I didn't have the final word from my insurance company. Seeing, as they say, was believing and although I didn't intend to do it, I ended up buying the car. It was a bird in the hand that I didn't want to let go of. If the Impala is totaled, which my gut tells me it is, I'm a step of the game, having already replaced it. If not, the insurance company can pay to get it fixed and I'll sell it. Either way, it's a win for me, moving up two model years and back 30,000 miles from the Impala. The ironic thing is my mother has a 2013 LaCrosse also. Hers only has 6,800 miles on it.

As soon I as I read memphisman, I was like he would give that car a great home. You beat to that point. Nice. Too bad he didn't get a response back.

Why did you guys stop, LOL! Do you think I should post this in the For Sale section or a place where it might get some attention?

It really has a gorgeous interior and is in the NC area so should be really solid underneath. MemphisMan was thinking about getting it, contacted the seller but never really got a good response back from the him. Really too bad. MemphisMan would have given it an exceptionally good home.

Back in the day here, we used to beat people up for not knowing simple W-body facts. lol

Believe me, I know your right but I keep getting backlash about it so I just gave up. I'll let those guys figure it out on their own, not worth getting into an argument with them. Thanks man and nice you saved at least one of them!

Extremely rare like what 94oldsvert is talking about, a 96 GP GT sedan. Fully loaded with HUD, DIC, leather, factory CD, moonroof, and the LQ1. Currently for sale on FB for only $500! Non running of course.

Very rare, probably a 1 of 1 car, a 94 GP SE sedan with HUD, DIC, factory CD player, and bench seat/column shift.

I agree too with 94oldsvert. I have been getting some backlash though, guys saying that a 96 will work on the 94-95 cars and I'm not educated enough on how or why. I wish I would have grabbed them now when I seen them in the yards over the years. I didn't know better, rookie mistake. 1995 GTP with both HUD and DIC. You can see them both in the second pic.

I would have sworn I was a member years and years ago, but couldn't find my email, so signed up again! Not new to W-bodies, owned a 93 GP SE w/3.4, 91 GTP with a 5 speed, and a 95 CS Convertible. Enjoyed them all. Been into Fiero's for awhile now, have had a 86 GT (sold), 87 GT (scraped), 88 GT (sold), another 88 GT (sold), and currently have an '88 coupe (Formula tribute) T-top. Looking for my next project, found a 95 CS Convertible for a decent price. Looks like it needs some work, but has decent mileage, and an LQ1. Most of my time in the W-body has been southern cars, this is the first northern one I'm going to look at. Currently in Ohio so rust is going to be an issue. Hoping to find some good info on where these things rust at. Anyways, hoping to be back in the community soon!

That's amazing, I'm gonna try this. Just plain old white vinegar? Thanks man!

They were DICs. Driver Information Centers. A 1995 grand prix will need one from a 1994 or 1995. One from 1996 will not work. 1996's are rare and you probably won't come across one of those. So it isn't too much of a worry.

I have let stuff sit in salt and vinegar for a month it does a great job. It will only attack the rust not the clean metal. A week should give you very good results. Just as an example a couple of bolts that were very rusty on my 50 year old cub came out great after a week sitting in that solution.

soak it in vinegar with some salt in it. The rust will fall off and only clean metal will be left. Then you could probably just push it out. I would be afraid to cut a seat belt mount. One small cut or scrap and you reduce its structural integrity.

I figured they would since the bolt head was so rotted. If this car was in an accident with belted rear seat occupants, it wouldn't be good.

Prefer a '95, as that is what I had before, and I like the '95 interior much better.

DO NOT HEAT the bar. You will ruin the temper. Bend it cold, or leave it alone.

The lateral arms would prevent that from happening, would they not? They aren't stretching.

Jiggity76 on your 1991 chime module what does the red and purple external wires do? The reason that chimes module sounds so bad is because the sound is produced from an electro magnet pulling on a steel disk. If GM made that 2 wire 7-pin module with a speaker you can greatly improve yhe quality of the sound. My 96 Cutlass had the standard seven pin module with the steel disk that sounded bad. One day I was working on a 1988 Astro Van and noticed that the chime was nicer my Cutlass so I pulled the module and discovered that it had a speaker instead of a steel disk. I went to the salvage yard and pulled about 10 chime modules from late 80’s and found about 4 good modules with speakers. I have wired one of the speaker modules in my 75 Chevy truck so that when I open the door with the lights on it will chime. This is a simple 2-wire hook up. The module with the speaker has holes in front of the speaker and the steel disk module does not.

That's some serious rust. If this CSC is anything like the above, I'll be passing! I'll check all the standard areas for rust, anything hidden that I can easily look for, especially being a convertible? I'm used to the Fiero world, and know where to pull carpet/panels to look for serious rust issues. Most of the W-bodies I have dealt with were not rust belt cars.

I HATE that chime, that's why I replaced it with a fully functional 1994 Cutlass chime, my locks automatically lock at 9 MPH; my turn signal chime works plus it sounds a lot more modern.

I'm not surprised that you can get NOS. The 1994 is slightly different as there are more wires since it also controls the automatic door locks and I think a chime that tells you if your turn signal has been on too long (too bad my mother in law's 1999 Park Avenue didn't have that. I'm sure people used to think she was going around the world to the left.

Any time bud, if it doesn't. I think I have a working 1994 box around here.

The thickest rear was on the 1995-96 Monte Carlo Z34. I think it hits the exhaust on 1st gens though if I remember right.

What's left of the driver's side torque box/support rail areas under where the driver's feet would be.

There's a tab on the bottom, slide a thin screwdriver in there and twist slightly. It's likely that, they tend to go bad over time. My truck has one from a 1994 Cutlass convertible.

Thanks for the intel. Hoping to go look at it this weekend and will pay attention to the specific areas. Not sure what kind of life it has had, first owner owned it for 17 years, but since then, it has been through 3 other owners, which is a bit worrisome. But who knows, won't know anything until I get a chance to look at it. Wouldn't mind finding a good (and cheap!) one farther south, thats for sure! Stuck on the '95 though.

the pistachio colored box.

So, I'm an idiot! I did it again! Due to my scatter brain, I just went and looked, yeah, the parts car still has it. I thought I pulled it already and was worried I had already pulled it but lost it in my parts room. It's not the easiest to get to the driver's door since my Super Duty is next to it so I just couldn't go out and check. I had to move the truck and open the door from the outside. But I was thinking about it...if the wire was still mounted on the door, and the wire is connected to the illuminated ring, it still has to be on the car and that's why I checked. Sorry guys to put you thru this, my own enemy in this case...AGAIN! At least I have an NOS one coming and this one as well. Not sure if it works anymore and I don't see a bulb anywhere so the ring itself must be it's own bulb? I don't know.

Your ability to find parts that haven't been made since the Clinton administration never fails to amaze me.

I've been talking with MemphisMan, there is a ring that basically clips around the key cylinder and two wires that are soldered on. I'm guessing the wires plug into the harness that runs thru the door and yes, I agree about the bulb. I'm going to open up the parts car and the 91 car and see if I can figure this out. That's what I'm worried about. I lost the illuminated ring. I've tore apart my parts room and I don't know where it's at. Unless I left it in the white car or parts car. I'll look again tomorrow. One good thing, MemphisMan said his 95 vert has this option so I might have better chances of finding one in a yard either thru a newer coupe or vert. Thanks digital!

The Cash for Clunkers program wiped a vast majority of older vehicles out, I remember seeing all sorts of nice cars turning up to be destroyed. I know one other person here that drives a 3.1 `92 coupe and he's not interested in giving his up either. I`d like to get another 1st gen for an L67 swap, probably buy one already done looking for a good home. As common as it was for that swap I havent seen those come around for sale that often either.

And then there's corrupt Government dirtbags that provided tax-funded giveaways to people who scrapped and destroyed older vehicles. Once the waterglass went through the bearings and lifters, there was essentially nothing salvageable from the engine; and there's only so much market for interior or chassis parts when millions of vehicle get scrapped at once. In other words, "crushed and sent to China". Bastards.

Mission complete!! I went to the junkyard today and found three cars with that mount. 1997 and 1999 Lumina, and a 1994 Grand Prix, All of them still had engines, I was hoping to find one that someone already pulled the engine from. Turned out to not be all that difficult to remove anyway, I just jacked up the engine with the scissor jack I found in the trunk (because they wouldn't let me bring in my own scissor jack!) and unbolted it. Comparison of the original mount on bottom and the new one: Notice the two holes for the subframe bolts are differently spaced. Fortunately my subframe had an additional hole there, so it fit with no trouble at all. Dogbones unhooked, engine mounted and off the hoist, everything just "at rest". Perfectly lined up!! Thank you, mfewtrail! Now on to the next mystery, exhaust. New thread coming soon...

Okay, further research indicates that the cluster uses a NDM457C chip (Nippon Denso) which is an EEPROM. There is a software/hardware combo, for about $80 (from China), that can program the chip "in circuit with appropriate probing of the chip. The NDM457C is exposed through the plastic case, so disassembly of the cluster isn't even required. The software allows for the clean entry of mileage, so "by hand" decoding of the EEPROM is unnecessary. Software/hardware at: http://www.microcontroller-cafe.com.ua/products/automotive/NDM457C Such system also reprograms the digital clusters in: 1) HONDA Prelude, 1994-1996 (OKI 16911G) 2) LEXUS LS, 1996-1999 (TC97101P) 3) LEXUS ES, CS, LS 1992-1995 (NDM457C) 4) GM Cutlas Suprime International, BUICK Regal 1991-1995, PONTIAK Grand AM (NDM457C) 5) GM Safari, Savana, Gxpress Astro, Caprice (Delco 51006A) 6) BUICK Reviera 1996-1999 (TC97101P) 7) SAAB 900, 1994-1996 (59C11) The problem is....its $80! Anyone else have the need to do any of this kind of work (odometer modification) on their UB3 or other NDM457C cluster?

Hi, my name is Tim and for about a year or so I've been a proud owner of a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme that's been passed onto me. I live in Belgium and the car is in Poland for the moment but that's another matter. I had always wanted an American car, maybe the Olds isn't what the average teenager dreams of but these cars are very rare in Europe so I'm happy with it. The Oldsmobile make is almost unknown in these parts, so it adds to the curiosity factor. There are however problems with rarity - the first one being spare parts. The second issue is finding people with enough knowledge to be able to diagnose a problem or recommend any change - that is how I found this forum, I've already found a few useful posts. I hope that one day I'll be able to contribute to this forum to respond in kind.

It's great that you have the ingenuity to fix a problem that the engineers didn't. With the rare cars, you have to come up with fixes on your own sometimes. Your car is one of the ones that definitely deserve the attention! I'm worried that I may have to go this same route on my W's. I want to keep them OEM as much as I can due to their rarity but I obviously don't want to jeopardize my safety or others...and destroy my cars in the process. I'm glad the relay cover worked out! Looks nice and at least I can say I helped a little bit on your car. I'm still going to grab that exhaust shield when I see one.

This is right on the money. I was actually able to get my alternator out without lowering the subframe. Takes some extra twisting and turning of the alt to get free. Make sure he joins the forum though. He'll quickly change his mind on the LQ1 if he's on here and has support instead of just getting shit head comments from lazy mechanics.

Um...if your speedometer now reads less than your actual speed...so does your odometer...you may be driving farther than indicated by the odometer, which would be reflected in lower calculated fuel mileage. How far off would the indicated speed/distance be with tires that have a larger circumference? Find that, and you’ll probably discover the source of your lower fuel mileage

Yeah it's done. I got everything sorted out. Blinkers now blink, and the memory works I used the cig lighter orng. wire for hot all the time. I hooked up the tach. It doesn't show a redline because of my RobertIsaar tune. He bumped my redline to 7k rpm. I still need an oil pressure switch.

check out rockauto: 98 lumi LTZ w/3800: the police packaged cars got a 140 amp piece. no idea what it is though.

They get harder to find by the day. They get scrapped all the time.

I have seen that before in MI. I used to pull on the seat belts at cars in the junkyard just to see if they would pull free. A lot of them did. Pretty scary.

Ok, I'll keep a lookout. By the way, since were talking about rust issues. Get this, my parts car is so rotted, the seat belt bolts that are mounted to the floorpan, they completely tore from the body due to the rot!

Well, it was a bust. While not quite as bad as the pictures above, it still had some serious rust issues, and holes. Not to mention the current owner broke the drivers door handle, and tried to pry the door open. So they put a new dent in it in the rear quarter panel, nice of them to share that before I made the drive out there... Guess I'm on the lookout now for a good one!