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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/21/2024 in all areas

  1. BradCH

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!
    3 points
  2. cutlassman

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.
    2 points
  3. White93z34

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.
    2 points
  4. White93z34

    HELP!! AARRGH

    You don't "need" a scantool, necessarily, Its a 93' its not that smart in the first place. Qucik and dirty oldschool should get you pointed in the direction. These methods served me well for years. I'm saying this as someone who owns all the diagnostic equipment at this point in my life. Are the plugs fuel fouled? if they are that's a problem, New or not if they are soaked in gasoline they won't do much, pull it out if its wet and smells like gas then yeah Do you have injector pulse? One bad injector can bring the other 5 down with it. Its not uncommon for them to fail as the cars get older and older. To check it, pull the cover off the fuel rail, unplug an injector any injector. get yourself a 194 lamp unfold the leads and stuff them in the injector harness, does it flash while cranking? if it does plug the injector back in and move to another of the front 3 and repeat, this will rule out the one you just disconnected as being bad Make sure the battery is up to the task, the ECM won't run under ~9v or so. is the tachometer needle moving when you're cranking if not its an indication that the crank sensor could be bad Check fuel pressure, put a small flat blade screwdriver to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, do you get a forceful ejection of gasoline with the depression while the key is on? its probably ok pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, does fuel come out of it? if so thats a problem. if you happen to have a small hand vacuum pump pull a vacuum on the regulator if it won't hold any vacuum, thats also a problem Next lets get into the weeds a bit more, the map sensor is located behind the upper intake, is everything connected properly, if its unplugged the car won't start Coolant temp sensor is it connected, if its unplugged it thinks the coolant temp is around -40 or -50 degrees and can often lead to flooding and not starting I mean you did a heap of work to the car do a general sanity check to make sure nothing you did could have caused it. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  5. jiggity76

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    I feel your pain but if it were my car, I would just drop the pan. I haven't done this on a 3.1 car as I own LQ1 cars but it's not a bad job really. Just make sure to clean everything well and you might as well put a new gasket on it. There are instructions in my manuals that require torque for the gasket and the metal tabs in certain areas of the perimeter of the pan flange. You'll also want to add dabs of silicone sealant in the corners of the pan where it goes up and around the crankshaft, etc. Again, the manual recommends this.
    1 point
  6. Callahanj0b

    Post rebuild electrical nonsense

    Replaced relays, vroom vroom.
    1 point
  7. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I knew I read about the Corvette people and hood vents from somewhere. The clear coat didnt make the pattern it was the new coat of primer on top of the scuffed up clear coat. I was thinking a media blaster using some "softer" stuff like baking soda would be enough to remove it evenly. Or just make a week long project out of doing it by hand a few square inches a night with sand paper. While their off I had the idea to see if CS vents fit, I`ll dig them out and see. I also have a set of Daytona vents I forgot I had, only have one drip pan for it though.
    1 point
  8. 94 olds vert

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I don't know if I would use a media blaster on those vents. That could damage them. When I had my 1st gen GP and I added some vents. I took them to a shop that specializes in corvettes. They were able to repair them. I had a few broken mount points and a cracks. Plastics can be tricky to paint. I would try a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Lift-Off-TESF542143-Plastics/dp/B000BQSKQE/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.D26tQF1wV1qdtPU_fCc6S1cn9VBRfVsiKvTkIvtLwO9Xj7KES-1xXQxJ47Qq9lgH1ugikOWGfMueBW5LLxjLesyeN_NSvIv7HVASJKH7TeneFQvPTkj1Xc_Kce2XXeGcm59pzmpIDTG6SzAY6cy2gwWUDI5E3v6v3644kHnJiOR8TK7U8zbG5TwaNg_efrjf9nQocukymTJAwYQnMmLw9yzk1V0c6XBz0e4w9LdMYIHpS-FXEf3ERYySGoZ2Vc5M7rTt9zgP_uWqfwzXC_vpF0ttHWBVNKVtMINh4rRZl4U.xETHwFlqmrxsYAfmsAfwXOaFbWvaTM5EgMQJmR4OmAU&dib_tag=se&keywords=paint+remover+for+plastic&qid=1711146143&sr=8-5 Try a test spot and hopefully it's not too aggressive with the vent. The clear coat left a lightning bolt pattern? Could have just been the clear coat reacting weird to the base layers of paint. I've had it happen and it sucks.
    1 point
  9. 94 olds vert

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I have a very similar issues on my jet ski, with metal screws and plastic mounts. I slammed into a wave pretty hard and broke the tabs. Luckily I was able to get the hood vent cover out of the lake. Looks like I know what to use for the repair now.
    1 point
  10. Amanita

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I need to fix the hood vents on my Grand Prix but one of the problems is a couple posts have broken and I'm not entirely sure how to fix that.
    1 point
  11. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    Do not use the flexible bumper repair stuff, it doesnt hold at all. As soon as I screwed the vent back down it all seperated and I could peel the urethane off clean. So now I`m going to strip it and try again, might do the other just to be sure they match. I used Gorilla glue gel to re-attach the unobtanium and ran a mounting screw down the glued on provision and it all held very nice. Let it cure for 24 hours.
    1 point
  12. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat
    1 point
  13. jiggity76

    Tired 88 Cutlass

    He's here. Not consistently, but he does check in once in awhile. He's also on FB. Classic GM FWD Society. Yes, he does both of them. He actually looked at my cluster a few months ago. Sadly, it couldn't be repaired as it was badly damaged. Don't let that deter you though. Each cluster repair is unique and he very well might be able to fix yours. Very fair on price too.
    1 point
  14. 90LuminaEuro

    Larger Rear Brake Rotors(?)

    Check the hoses. I've had several 1G W-bodies, including my current '88 CS. They all had issues with the rear passenger side going through pads and the calipers seizing. My CS regularly smoked brakes. I replaced the master cylinder, calipers in the rear and did a full bleed on the system. Still locked up. Metal lines were intact and in good shape. Turns out, the hose was bad! Collapsed when pressure was taken off and the caliper would only release pressure when I opened the bleed screw. Replace all of your hoses. You can even find steel-braided ones at hawkbrakesdirect.com. just have to look up the 94 Z34.
    1 point
  15. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    I will be pulling my 3100 from my 96 GP soon to put in a 3500, and I was wondering where the lower engine mount is? I know the engine has to come unbolted from the tranny, and then the 2 dogbone mounts on top come off, then all lines get disconnected.... but where is that lower mount and is there anything else that has to come apart for the engine to come out? Tranny is staying in the car. Thanks.
    1 point
  16. Heartbeat1991

    W-body engine pull

    I dropped mine out the bottom all as one unit.
    1 point
  17. DefEddie

    W-body engine pull

    Update for tips and tricks on pulling the whole assembly out from underneath.
    1 point
  18. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    Heh oh yeah, I need to get some videos! Still tryin to smooth out my tune, it's being a pain.
    1 point
  19. Crazy K

    W-body engine pull

    WHO??? LOL yeah. I have three frame swaps scheduled right now, actually!!!!!!!!
    1 point
  20. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    Ah! Finally got it out! Turns out that left side bracket... well if you unbolt it from the trans, there are 2 bolts. But if you unbolt it from the block, there are 2 bolts towards the top, and 1 down towards the bottom of the engine. I did not see this 1 lower bolt! So about 5 hours of fighting for that. After I undid that, it came right out.
    1 point
  21. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    I have been told that everyone swaps their covers because accessories don't fit correctly on the 3500's (including the PS pump). When everything is out and in front of me, if it looks like it will work then I will use it. The cover had to come off anyways for the cam so no biggie.
    1 point
  22. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    Yeah, just unbolt the pump from the engine (3 bolts accessible thru the pulley holes) lift it up and set it aside. Don't disconnect any lines. What's different about the 3500 timing cover? I remember seeing a 3500 in a car with electric power steering, yet the mount for the hydraulic pump was still on the timing cover.
    1 point
  23. TurboSedan

    W-body engine pull

    i always leave my PS pump in the engine bay when i pull the drivetrain. just unbolt it from the front timing cover and set it aside.
    1 point
  24. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    Yay now I have a sticky on both forums! Is there anything bad about turning it the other way? While I was getting my crank pulley off my 3500 I think I turned it the other way a few times Here is my thread on the Powrtuner forums for those who have access http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=6093 I am basically being told now that my 96 PCM is no good for tuning, and that I can directly swap in a 97 PCM to give me more tuning options.
    1 point
  25. slick

    W-body engine pull

    We could add this to FAQ later once all discussion is done. If someone wants to do a write-up of dropping the entire cradle for swapping engines, I'll make it a sticky as well.
    1 point
  26. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    You'll still have an oil pressure switch there for the dummy light on the gage cluster. Once in there you won't necessarily see the bolts. With the starter out, you'll see the back face of the flexplate. You need to manually turn the engine and stop when the bolts come into view. There's 3 of them, 120 degrees apart. I rotate the engine using a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley/dampener bolt. Turn clockwise of course. I don't have a pic of this but I'll look around. Yeah I was thinking of trying one of those cams too! I saw your thread on there, I'm on that forum as "Rhedalert". I did a basic tuning method like you suggested, except I went from 3100 settings to 3400 settings. This got me closer. (I have since gone to a 3400 file anyway) I'm hoping we get a 3500 file to view (though I'm just about done with tuning, just curious how the 3500 settings are), but things tend to take a LONG time over there to get anything. I waited over 4 months from the time I purchased the PT to the time I was able to TUNE my Olds. It's tough to get the ball rolling quickly over there if you don't have a 3800, but patience is the key and it will happen.
    1 point
  27. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    I have a few minutes at this moment. That lower mount, all you need to do is crawl under the car, and remove the 2 retaining nuts keeping the mount onto its "cup" on the frame. Other things to do.... Bottom: - unbolt AC compressor from bracket and set aside - Remove starter - Remove flexplate-to-torque converter bolts (accessible once starter is removed. You will have to turn the engine manually at the crank pulley to get at all 3) - Disconnect exhaust downpipe (preferred), or unbolt crossover and remove rear exhaust manifold. - Remove right side transmission-to-engine block retaining bolts (I usually just remove the 2 bolts going into the trans diff cone area, and leave the bracket bolted to the engine block) Over: - All hoses including upper, lower, and 2 heater hoses (nearest the throttle body - Remove cables from TB or just unbolt the TB and set it aside - Undo two fuel lines with special quick disconnect tool - Get all accessories out of the way - Unbolt P/S pump and set aside - Remove alternator (preference of mine for added space) keep the bracket bolted to the engine - Disconnect engine wiring harness that goes to the EGR, Throttle body, igniton module, MAP sensor, Oxygen sensor, injector harness, etc and set aside - *** Disconnect knock sensor and oil pressure sensor wiring (You don't want to pull these apart accidentally) - remove crossover heat shield and crossover (optional for added space to get to the bellhousing bolts) - undo bellhousing bolts, disconnect 2 ground wires attached to 2 of these bolts *** ONE Bellhousing bolt in the BACK of the motor is facing the OTHER direction. You can only access this from the passenger side of the car. I usually use a long 1/2" extension and get at it by feel from the passenger side fenderwell. - Support transmission from the bottom with a jack, or jackstand (use a big piece of wood to prevent gouging the pan) - lift up evenly, be sure motor mount lifts out of its cup first, then shake the engine free from the tranny. I may have missed some so I'll add as I think about it.
    1 point
  28. cutlassman

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    I’ve owned this car for almost 24 years and getting that broken crankshaft position sensor out was probably the biggest PITA since! I was able to get various drill bit sizes into the hole and chip away at the plastic sensor. Unfortunately, when it finally started to loosen, I accidentally pushed the sensor into the block where I could hear it thud into the oil pan. New problem now! After draining the oil, I tried to fish it out through the oil pan drain hole with no luck. The metal middle of sensor is in there, along with about 75% of the plastic surround. Dropping the oil pan is such a hassle, so I may just leave the sensor remains in there and roll the dice. Or, I thought about drilling a 3” hole in the oil pan and then patching it. Anybody have any experience doing anything like that? I haven’t found a suitable plug, yet. So frustrating.
    0 points
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