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  1. 4 points
    negativeMatt

    Another red 90 TGP

    I just picked this one up last weekend. I had it loaded and down the road when I stopped for fuel and then decided to look it over, lol. I was floored when I saw the mileage! The car had all the paperwork from its yearly inspections in the glovebox, confirming the mileage right up until 2008 when it was parked. I'm assuming it was the brakes that did it in. I originally purchased it for parts and the front valance and interior bits were what I was after, but now I believe she will be back on the road soon. Everything inside works like new, the switches feel crisp and positive as they should, all lights, sounds, gauges etc function. The car will fire and run for just a few seconds, so I've pulled the injectors and will drop the tank for a complete fuel system clean and put in a new pump and filter. I'll have my body shop guys pull and fix the quarter panel dent, buff her out as good as possible and see how well she looks. If it was a sunroof car, I would most likely keep it, but since it isn't, it'll be looking for a new home in a few months. Now, if I could only find a dang black car!!
  2. 3 points
    94supremevert

    94 Cutlass vert

    Hello, sorry it took so long to respond. Thanks for the warm welcome! Here are some pics I snapped today.
  3. 3 points
    oldmangrimes

    Front suspension fail

    She's back on the road! After a long winter of fighting rusty bolts, I finally got her back together yesterday. I carefully drove her around the block once, and she seemed to drive and shift fine. I haven't noticed any leaks from the transmission or the brake lines. I'll try a longer drive tonight after work and see how it goes. Parts replaced: Passenger side only: Axle. Both sides: Control arms, tie rods (inner and outer), ball joints, flex brake lines. Parts saved: Fender (I straightened the bent lip). Wheel well trim and lower cladding were slightly damaged but I reinstalled them. TBD: Passenger front tire and hub. The tire held air all winter, but I need to drive at higher speeds and go around corners to evaluate the hub and tire. Total cost: About $400 including tools. Time spent: I don't want to think about it, probably 50+ hours if you count watching videos and buying tools. It doesn't sound like much, but I found ways to make the project take forever. It was my first time doing any of these jobs on any car, so it was a slow learning curve to figure out what technique to use. I often would only have two or three hours a week to work on it, so it dragged on and on. I tried to save money by using the wrong tool for the job a few times, which just ended up with wasted time and frustration until I would give up and drive to the store and buy the right tool. Once I had the right tool and the right technique, each job wasn't bad. Moral of the story: Buy the right tool!
  4. 2 points
    Cutlass350

    Front suspension fail

    Fwiw, there's no such thing as an Oldsmobile vehicle. That's a BS myth - just like the $2 bill! Congrats on getting the car back on the road!
  5. 2 points
    Imp558

    I own a 90 TGP....again

    When you do the brake swap could you take a few pictures and do a little write-up of sorts? That would be a really interesting thread...
  6. 2 points
    They just get torqued down. There is no adjustment. Put both the rockers and the pushrods back in the exact same places they came out of (the 60 degrees use two different length pushrods). Do you need to replace the intake gaskets because they're leaking? 50k miles is pretty low to have those gaskets leak, especially on a Gen 2 motor, which don't really tend to have issues.
  7. 1 point
    Yes, actually its my wife's she bought it in 92' with 5,000 miles it now has 169,700
  8. 1 point
    Well, I promised a write up, this isn't exactly worthy due to it's lack of complexity but here goes... There are several Walbro 255 pumps with different alignments and such. the P/N that works for us is: F20000169 Mine came with an install kit from TRE Performance: 400-1016 I paid $87.00 for mine off Ebay, which was the best price I found. Everything I needed was in the kit when it came plus a few extras, the parts I used were the plug adapter harness, the rubber grommet thing for the bottom, filter sock, and high pressure hose and hose clamps. I'm not going to get into dropping the tank and re-installing, or even extracting the pump assembly from the tank aside from 2 things. 1) of the 3 lines in front of the tank, only remove the pressure and return, easily identified with quick connects at/by the filter. The line that is just coupled with rubber tube goes to the canister and passes right over the tank without connecting to it. 2) when re-installing the pump assembly watch tapping the lock ring, it's a bit smaller than it really could be and it has a tendency to unseat in one of the 3 places just before it's finally tight. Okay, now my pump was already replaced with a Bosch pump, and there was a wiring adapter there but I ran the new one with the kit anyway. These comparison pictures are of the Bosch, which was sold as a direct replacement. Here's the Bosch still on the pump assembly, also curious to see what you guys theorize that piece of machinery in the background is: Here's a couple shots of both pumps side by side: I said it was an easy swap, they're the same form factor. Here's the Walbro with the rubber grommet doodle they supplied, good fit on the bottom of our assembly: The rest is just as obvious, cut the supplied hose and couple it to where the pulse dampener is attached. It came with 2 clamps so I pulled some out of a drawer and put 2 more on just for luck. To look at everything the pulse dampener could be utilized, but it's not exactly the most secure connection on that thing so the hose seemed like a better bet. And here's a shot of the jumper plug thing that plugged right in to the car's existing fuel pump plug on one end and the Walbro on the other, the Bosch had the same thing: Not shown is my fuel pressure, the cheap Chinese adjustable regulator was incapable of lowering the pressure below 100 lbs, so I stuck a stock rail back on it for now, I may get a nice regulator for it in the near future. With the stock L67 regulator my idle pressure at full vacuum is 47, where factory was about 35 in my car before, and WOT no vacuum pressure is 52 where factory in my car was 47. Idle Pressure: Stock: 35 Walbro 255: 47 WOT Pressure: Stock: 47 Walbro 255: 52 Walbro P/N: F20000169 Install kit: 400-1016
  9. 1 point
    digitaloutsider

    06 Grand Prix

    Here's some info on those DTCs: https://www.w-body.com/shaun/p2125.htm https://www.w-body.com/shaun/p2138.htm I'll see if I can get the actual schematic when I'm off work. It's from eSI, so the links inside the document won't work.
  10. 1 point
    Amanita

    Another red 90 TGP

    Yeah if I were to get a turbo it would be a black one with grey cloth. CD and moonroof don't matter much to me.
  11. 1 point
    ManicMechanic

    New to the site!

    Welcome to FB, bud...It's like Hotel California. You can check out any time you like but you can never leave. Then again, I have no life.
  12. 1 point
    Imp558

    New to the site!

    If you know what the donors were I can give you the information to test those.
  13. 1 point
    Imp558

    New to the site!

    Jihgety, if you want to sell a HUD assembly I'd be interested, I need a bezel.
  14. 1 point
    MemphisMan

    New to the site!

    You should put all those HUD units on top of your dash and take a picture. Post it on FB and try to convince people you actually have them hooked up!
  15. 1 point
    negativeMatt

    I own a 90 TGP....again

    Will do, gents
  16. 1 point
    negativeMatt

    I own a 90 TGP....again

    Still here, mainly on the fb page however...I now have 3 TGPs, lol. Been driving the original car daily now for the last 7 months and the brakes work great! I picked up another 90 just a few days ago with only 48k on it. I'm gonna swap the brakes on it and put it back on the road as well.
  17. 1 point
    Mach 5

    W-body Nationals June 2019

    what we doing!!!???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
  18. 1 point
    lets see them pix
  19. 1 point
    MemphisMan

    Junk Yard Thread, Never ending

    Probably left-over LQ1s that were brought to the line to be put in '96 cars and were never meant to go in the '97s.
  20. 1 point
    jiggity76

    New to the site!

    So let me just say, MemphisMan is the man for countless reasons but he found this part on Ebay and texted me bringing my attention to it and I couldn't believe my eyes! A 91-94 CS HUD unit! After inspecting it, I can confirm that it is an NOS piece and has never been installed. The screw tabs have never been tampered with and the maroon cover is perfect along with the rubber seal that goes around the perimeter of it. Also, you can see the outside and inside lens/mirror is perfect, no scratches or fogging. The inside has no dirt, dust, or any debris at all! Incredible! It came in a very nicely packed box and was enclosed in a sealed bag. I would have never known about it unless MemphisMan said something and I'm forever grateful to him. The best part, I only paid $36.15 for it including shipping! There was and I'm sure still is a NOS HUD unit still out there that I posted somewhere here. The guy wants $1000 for it! Thank you Memphis! Your the best!
  21. 1 point
    oldmangrimes

    Front suspension fail

    I've got the passenger side done, but the control arm bolts were seized to the bushing sleeves on the driver's side. Penetrating oil and many swings of a sledgehammer worked on the passenger side bolts, but that wasn't enough for the drivers side so I gave up and had to cut the bolts. One problem I ran into was that was my Ryobi battery-powered sawzall has a long body and I couldn't get a very good angle for one of the cuts that's closest to the axle, I kept bending the saw blades. So I had to use my angle grinder and cut off chunks of the control arm until I had enough clearance to get all the way through the bolt. I had to make multiple cuts before it finally cut through (and I get a little nervous with showers of sparks from the angle grinder landing on an oil-covered engine) but I finally got it out of there. Now all I have left to do is the drivers side tie rod, install new brake lines, torque all the new bolts, refill the transmission, clean off the leaked transmission oil from the exhaust (because I don't want to smell that or start a fire) and hope it starts and runs. I'm guessing I'll get it done by early March.
  22. 1 point
    Dark Ride

    Big brake upgrade differences

    Any 96-99 Lumina will have what you need and they are at least somewhat common in the yards here in central mn. Definitely upgrade the other side to match. Don't downgrade.
  23. 1 point
    55trucker

    Big brake upgrade differences

    Any one of the 1st gen W's 94-96 & also the 95 thru 99 Monte Carlo will have the strut you're in need of. I'm inclined to think the later cars would be easier to find than the older cars. I too am looking for the later struts for a brake upgrade to my 91, but it means a trip south of the border to where they still can be had, there are none at all up here.
  24. 1 point
    55trucker

    Big brake upgrade differences

    More information is needed, what year is your car? '92? is the replacement front strut taken from a 94 -96 vehicle? if so the mounting for the calipers are different, the later strut allows an 11" front rotor, the earlier cars (88-93) are fitted with 10.5" rotors. The caliper bracket & the calipers are the same, the only difference is where the later struts stamped welded bracket flange locates the caliper bracket to move it further away from the centerline of the rotor/spindle to accommodate the larger rotor dia. If the shop that did this tried to use the 10.5: rotor mounted to the hub where an 11" rotor should be the pads will not be in the proper location on the rotor contact surface. To correct this you will need to install a proper 11" rotor to that repaired side. This is also going to upset the braking force to the front wheels as well. The smaller 10.5" rotor will not deliver the same amount of braking torque that the 11" rotor will. The larger the diameter of the rotor the greater the braking torque will be. You will need to do the same mod to the other side to equalize the braking torque to both wheels. The shop that did this should've seen that something was visually incorrect when they re-installed the pads & could see that they were out of place.
  25. 1 point
    You can also pick up a steering wheel control kit from most car audio places which will allow you to keep your steering wheel controls. I forget where I've seen them though other than Best Buy but I don't think Best Buy carries car audio stuff anymore. Not around here, at least. Also, Crutchfields carries them... http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Ax34aXESnkl/g_118900/Steering-Wheel-Audio-Control-Adapters.html
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