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Got her running boys!! Not only that, she runs tip top again!! It was timing all along. Fabbed some tools in my father in laws shop to replicate those in the Kent moore kit and worked like a charm. A big thank you to those who offered help and guidance through my first real foray into the 3.4L dohc joys and frustrations. It's been better than 12 yrs since my z34 and I never tackled projects like gaskets or timing on it. This is really a great group!!

*It basically adjust the steering feel when going thru a parking lot and then tightens up when on the highway or Interstate*. almost......lol, not quite.... the sensor is there to 1. disengage the a/c .... 2. send a signal to the ecm to raise the engine rpm when the vehicle speed is so slow that the engine rpm is to low to adequately assist the needed power steering pressure. When the pressure in the system drops to a pre determined pressure that switch opens, the ecm *sees* that & raises the engine rpm to increase the pump rpm & power steering pressure. The sensor is referred to as Idle Speed Power Steering Pressure Switch

Hello, I’m new here but wanted to take the first step toward posting. As you can see in the title I have a 1991 Grand Prix. I just finished getting my DIY exhaust mocked up and ready to weld and I will try to post pictures of it soon as well as other things. I have all new KYB struts and just ordered the rest of the parts I need to build rear coil overs, with the intention of lowering the car a lot. Will start a thread on that soon. Glad to be here.

It had to be saved, it was going to the Jawas otherwise. All Jiggity57`s fault for posting it. I got into a bit of a race the other day when I probably shouldnt have. I made a right turn and immediately found a speeding BMW attempting to swerve around me from a sharp corner in the right lane. I laid into the pedal a bit, chirped the tires and heard an awesome turbo wastegate PAHHTISHHHHH and left the kraut cart far into the rearview mirror. Scared the hell out of me and blew the lower hose off the turbo in the process. I love this freakin` car! Decades after WW2 and we can still put the Messerschmitt`s in their place, just not in a P51 Mustangs.

Each of the intake manifolds design is unique to the upper plenum assembly. If one wants to swap the intake manifold to or from the earlier design then one must also swap the upper plenum assembly.

149,996mi I`m thinking about registering for a spot at the Good Guys show in Lebanon, TN next month. Its now open to all American cars `99 and earlier.

Pretty sure every one of these cars use this

yes indeed...

Little update, we got it tuned pretty good just having trouble making boost. Fixed a couple leaky intercooler pipes and it takes forever to build boost. Thinking maybe the 2 1/2 is too big for the turbo piping, probably will go to 2 inch. We have cam to put in which will help aswell. More vids coming soon

You're welcome.

I just picked up a 93 vert last fall. I owned a 90 coupe as my first car back in highschool over 20 years ago. I've always wanted a convertible version since I first saw one. Now I do. lol She has a little damage from the previous owner which I've almost got all fixed but she's rust free with only 89k on the clock. The only pic i have right now is from the day I got her.

Supposedly you can gain a bit of power on the top end due to the intake being better designed. The downside is its a major pain in the ass to pull off properly, and even then it doesn't really fit the earlier engines well. not worth the trouble in my opinion.

I tried to do this as well probably back in 2010 or so. I couldn't find the parts I needed. So I just replaced the gaskets and moved on. I'd imagine finding the parts today would be very difficult.

I remember hearing it was worth it and wanting to do it back in the day on my cutlass but it was a pain finding everything at the yards. To put it into perspective I sold the cutlass 15 years ago.

Ehh, I dont hate it but it sort of looks funny being the only "chrome" on the car. Might have looked better above the tail light instead. It has little lines going through it like retro things did back then that match the grids in the tail lights and ribs in the bumpers in a very OCD friendly way.

Yeah, that's it Greg, up here in the salt belt they are prone to rotting out if not coated to protect them.

Personally, get a decent set of tires on Before you get an alignment done. The PS return line is an extended length piping, there are two sections to it, the shorter section is at the ps pump, it feeds down the front of the engine, there is a flexible hose on the end that connects to the major return piping that then feeds around the subframe to the front portion in front of the oilpan, then back along the same route all the way back to the rack. It's the total length of the return line that acts as a cooler for the fluid. Without any more info on your steering components condition I'll say this........when these cars were new there were issues with the steering wheel having a shimmy when *on center*, our car wasn't free of this issue, when at 8,000kms the steering developed that shimmy. It went back to the dealer who on the 1st visit replaced the ps pump thinking that the relief valve was fluttering, on the 2nd visit replaced the rack thinking the pressure seals inside were defective, on the 3rd visit removed all of the extended return piping to shorten up the distance between the rack & the ps pump in an effort to settle down any fluctuations in pressure. Doing #3 solved the issue with the shimmy. But that doesn't necessarily mean that doing #3 first could've/would've solved the issue.

^ Greg, what fluid are you making use of in the steering system? trans fluid or power steering fluid? Trans fluid is NOT the proper fluid for the system. It generally has a lower viscosity than power steering fluid, due to the friction modifiers can cause a whining in the pump, over time can ruin the seals in the rack, ps fluid is thicker & the system will function smoother. Seeing as the car is equipped with the 3.4 LQ1 is the original return line with the cooler extension in there? are you getting any sort of shimmy in the steering wheel when on center ( car is going straight)?

I finally got around to replacing my dead power door lock receiver. This is a real stinker of a job, there is a myriad of parts you have to remove enroute to getting at the small black box receiver which (on the coupes) is located next to the rear passengers side speaker behind the rear seatback. And you risk breaking any of them along the way. The manual advised that either the upper passengers side or the upper drivers side plastic trim that goes along the rear windows up the C pillar needs to be removed. Well, no way was I going to do that. I managed to get the rear seat to rear window trim panel off without removing those pieces. That was a bit of good luck, I guess. IMHO this was a ridiculous place to put this receiver. I decided to relocate the box to rest on top of the inner fender well in the trunk, using some gorilla tape to hold it on. All covered up by the interior trunk carpet. There is plenty of wire to make this happen, no cutting/splicing needed. Now, if that receiver croaks, this will be a 10 minute fix instead of a 3 hour headache. The only thing I broke was one push pin clip, and I am having a heck of a time finding even that. I programmed the transmitters and all is working just fine, mission accomplished.

So the aftermarket radio my cutlass came with from the previous owner is awful and I hate it. Luckily they did use the wire adapter and didn't hack up the factory harness. I just purchased Joying Android 10.0 Head Unit Octa Core 4GB+64GB 7 Inch Single Din from Amazon and should be at my house on this sunday. I will post pre and post install pictures for everyone on here. I'm just going to be reusing the harness and install kit that was already there. I will give updates down the road of my likes and dislikes of the new head unit. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. (I hated my radio enough that I decided to replace it before I fixed my top lol)

Mine's still working, which is a good thing since I can't find one.:( Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement as I'm sure I'll need one at some point. In the mean time I get to try and figure out why my top will go down but not up on it's own. lol

Check the obvious things, is the brake fluid level full? is the switch used to measure it working? Same goes for the parking brake pedal, try lifting on that to see if that causes the BRAKE light to go out High mount won't cause any of that on these cars. As for the ABS, yeah you need an appropriate scantool to read those codes. I use both a Tech1 or Tech2 to pull those codes, if you're anywhere near Pittsburgh I could pull them for you. Likely you have a couple separate issues, but on a 93' the ABS light is a non critical light, you just won't have any anti-lock is all.

If you have a set of the ST springs you'll find the drop at the front is approx 1.5 inches using the original rubber hardware, I had a set of those sitting on the shelf for more than 10 years. I couldn't find any Intrax at the time I was looking for drop springs, last year I finally did the cars suspension, the ST are a linear rate spring like the OEM springs. In my case that is better for the car where clearance is concerned seeing as the tires outer corners are directly under the wheelwell lip, spring compression can't allow contact between the tire & the fender lip, the other 3 bodylines don't display this issue as the fenders cover the wheels entirely. They do rider firmer, but to me that's not a negative seeing as (in my mind) the oem ride is far too soft. The new rear spring is as the chart shows 330lbs. per inch spring rate, this firms up the rear, along with the custom alignment the car corners more exactly, flatter, considerably less understeer. The car doesn't *float* anymore.

Does anyone know if the 91-93 Z34's uses a speed sensor mounted on the steering racks? I know the GP and Cutlass did. It's part # 10096157/10204102 if they used them. Thank you.

It's a misconception that one or all need to *go to* Birchmount Spring here near to me in Toronto to get a replacement steel leaf spring for their car. Any spring shop can fab up a replacement multi leaf arrangement, the shop just needs to know what spring rate you want, how many leaves you require (the fewer the better ..more than 1 leaf), the total length of the leaves, the ride height you're looking for. What you see below is what is under my car...the shop I approached arched the 2 leaves to the right height I wanted, seeing as this is a transverse spring each leaf on each side has to be tweeked to ensure that each side of the car's ride height is identical.

Gotcha. Thank you for the accurate description. I was just making a guess. So...the Z34's do use this sensor as well then?

Great news!

Pics? Though Ive got a feeling I know the part being referred too. IIRC its called run channel if its the slotted piece the glass makes contact with on the sides of the "window regulator". It could "possibly" be some universal stuff that solidified over time that just looks like plastic. Hey is this at the front A pillar side of the glass near the mirrors or against the rear part of the door glass closer to the handle? I`m thinking of 2 different parts now.

I've broken a rod end on the driver's side hydraulic ram for the convertible top. It broke off cleanly at the end of the shaft, saving the threads, but the "collar" still remains on the rod end. Any good tricks on how to screw this off without really messing stuff up? There's not much room to work...and I'd rather avoid tearing the interior panels off if I can avoid it. Thanks!

Working on this very car and searched up this thread for that SR P/N. Same thing happened on the passenger side and Ive about convinced myself I can replace the top and parts instead of a shop. Before that I want to disassemble and repaint/coat the frame pieces and go the extra mile a shop wouldnt. Can`t wait to get her back on the road and towards Pensacola, a convertible`s natural habitat!

not sure how i missed this before, but nice grab!

I believe the 04's were more subject to cracking, so I would go with a newer year.

This one has your name al over it! Being California car it should be reall clean https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/290176733382939/?mibextid=6ojiHh

Glad you got this TGP! It is really clean looking. I'll take a look for a grill. I used to have one.

Yep

did you all still want a picture of it installed?

I finally did this repair myself last night. I thought it was funny that we were talking about this 10 years ago! Summit still sells the same part with the same part number. Thank you so much for figuring this out and sharing how you did it, it saved me a bunch of time and money. I left my cylinder attached to the car to do the repair. I struggled with getting the broken end off the cylinder rod for a little while before I realized that I could move the rod end up and down into a better position by latching the convertible top in the up position, and just pushing the "up" and "down" buttons. I know this seems obvious, but I never push the up and down buttons with the top latched and didn't think of it until I watched a youtube video. The good cylinder on the other side is held in place and the hydraulic pressure change just moves the cylinder with the broken end up and down. I put a pair of vice grips wrapped with cardboard on the shaft and the broken end spun off easily with another pair of pliers. I used locktite on the new heim joint, because you can't tighten it very well and have it still lined with with the bracket. I also was careful to not drop the nut down into the body, as I'd read about a guy on w-body doing that in another thread. I just want to say I love this forum so much, my car broke and I fixed it for $5. A body shop would have probably charged me a bazillion dollars for a whole new cylinder assembly and labor.

OK kiddies, like the title says, is it possible to use the entire front sub frame and suspension in to a 1.5 lumina? I measured the front upper strut mounting bolts and it looks like the pattern is the same.

Incase anyone searches and wants the answer to this.... Yes it possible to bolt a 2nd gen subframe to the 1st gen. However there is some Modification needed to the front mounting bolts and some spacers needed to lower the subframe height. Miko k did the swap into his old 96 cutlass. He detailed it in his thread in the members ride section.

Yes can be done. -3800 motor and trans from a w-body(mounts are different between the different chassis. Just makes it easier). -Inner tulip cv joint from Same trans out axle from 1g w -Wiring harness 98-99 Monte Carlo/lumina ltz, need to mod c100 conector but easy enough -downpipe from same monte/lumina -power steering lines from monte/lumina -heater core lines from Monte/lumina -rad and hoses from 3800 car Motor will drop right into the subframe and into the car no issues. You can use the 2g wiring but you're into more wiring of the c100 connector as they're completely different.

Gen1 control arms are bolted to the K frame, and our struts are martian. Swapping the Gen2 frame, doesn't that mean that the whole suspension has to be reworked? I remember Miko's car... that thing was all modded up.

You can bolt the 2nd gen subframe in a 1st gen w-body, I've done it... Suspension becomes a headache though...

If anyone is wondering, these are still holding up great. Just like the day I put them in.

I wonder if Jason still has that car. I loved it. I loved Josh's too though - I still have a ton of old emails from him back when I was thinking of doing the 5-speed swap. Such a good guy.

Aluminum subframe was 06+ only...

so will the Aluminum cradle fit gen 1 and 1.5 cars?

Finally got this fixed. On my way down through Georgia, just south of Atlanta is a Summit Racing Equipment store. They had the rod ends. Mild steel, rated at over 9,000 pounds. They're a bit meatier than the originals, but fit just fine. You'll have to discard the plastic bushings used on the original rod end, these have metal spherical inserts, rather than a large hole for a plastic bushing. Be sure to use Locktite on the threads, as the cylinder rod can rotate, and over time loosen the rod ends. 3/8-24 female thread for the cylinder rod, 3/8 hole for the top bolt. Summit Racing Equipment Part # SUM-MSF6 Cost $4.88 each

Actually, I have all the part #'s! Cutlass Supreme 88-94 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88-89 FE1 = 26044830 (same as above) 89.5-91 FE1 = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 92-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X FE3 = 26042018 95-96 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26047206 (AC #36-9042) 96 3.4X FE3 = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 97 3.4X, 3.1M = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 97 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26055475 (AC #36-9163) Lumina (didn't get as detailed on Lumina) 90-94 Z34, F41 = AC #36-9021 90-94 FE1 14" tires = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 95-96 F41 = AC# 36-9023 95-96 FE1 = AC #36-9024 97 L82, LQ1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98-99 FE1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) 99 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) Grand Prix 88 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88 FE1 = 26024892 89 FE3 1st design = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP, and others 89 FE3 2nd design = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 89 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26021781 1st design 90 FE3 = 26044830 2nd design (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP??? 91 FE3 = 26044830, FE3 STE (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 coupe = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 91 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.1T = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92 3.1T FE3 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 92-93 3.4X 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92-93 FE1, FE3, 3.1T = AC #36-9023 94-96 3.1M, FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 94-95 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 94 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3 = 26042018 95-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3, NV7 (variable assist) = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 96 3.4X FE3 26047207 (AC #36-9043) I didn't get any rack part #'s for Regal, but I assume it wouldn't be likely to have a quick ratio rack. It looks like the better rack available for Cutlass Supreme FE3 is the same as the base model FE1 rack used in Grand Prix. It's pretty simple until 94+ when GM used many different racks for different engines and different years. I focused more detail on GP racks, because they obviously have the more performance-oriented rack selection. I know the TGP has a very quick ratio rack (36-9020) but I wonder how it compares to 36-9021. Also I wonder if any of the newer variable assist racks are quick ratio or not.