Leaderboard

Got her running boys!! Not only that, she runs tip top again!! It was timing all along. Fabbed some tools in my father in laws shop to replicate those in the Kent moore kit and worked like a charm. A big thank you to those who offered help and guidance through my first real foray into the 3.4L dohc joys and frustrations. It's been better than 12 yrs since my z34 and I never tackled projects like gaskets or timing on it. This is really a great group!!

*It basically adjust the steering feel when going thru a parking lot and then tightens up when on the highway or Interstate*. almost......lol, not quite.... the sensor is there to 1. disengage the a/c .... 2. send a signal to the ecm to raise the engine rpm when the vehicle speed is so slow that the engine rpm is to low to adequately assist the needed power steering pressure. When the pressure in the system drops to a pre determined pressure that switch opens, the ecm *sees* that & raises the engine rpm to increase the pump rpm & power steering pressure. The sensor is referred to as Idle Speed Power Steering Pressure Switch

LMAO, I meant to post this on another forum discussing old lawnmowers! They dont know what I`m talking about over there either.

I know I have one NOS in my my Parts Stash, and theres another member wanting to buy some parts out of that box... I just gotta find it in my garage.. Kids... Dont hoard stuff.. When you want something, you will NEVER find it!

149,996mi I`m thinking about registering for a spot at the Good Guys show in Lebanon, TN next month. Its now open to all American cars `99 and earlier.

Hello, I’m new here but wanted to take the first step toward posting. As you can see in the title I have a 1991 Grand Prix. I just finished getting my DIY exhaust mocked up and ready to weld and I will try to post pictures of it soon as well as other things. I have all new KYB struts and just ordered the rest of the parts I need to build rear coil overs, with the intention of lowering the car a lot. Will start a thread on that soon. Glad to be here.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I don't get online as much these days. Anyway, that question is hard for me to answer because I can't comment to the expense and value aspect as I just wanted to always do the LS4 swap. I didn't have any real budget or horsepower goal in mind. I simply wanted to do it to prove to myself that I could. If someone is going for straight power vs cost, it would probably be cheapest to turbo a 3800, and blow the LS4 away. But for me, yes, it was 'worth' it to just do it and have it work.

Thanks for getting back to me. I found a bad injector. It wouldn’t start. Had a na 3.1 back in the day that died while driving and ended up being a shorted injector. Also got the knock sensor out. Broke the clip though. Squeezed to hard I guess. When I get it back together I’ll post if it runs better. I think the exhaust leak is all crossover! If it at least runs better I will work on pulling that out next to have an exhaust shop fix it hopefully. If anyone still has a step by step on the remove and install of the crossover please post it if you can. All links are dead looking for this stuff these days. Also does anyone have an old chip they would sell for the ecm? Those links and people who did them are gone also. Sure would like to get some more hp if I get her running good.

Running rich could be all kinds of things. The car is dumping fuel in to balance out something wrong. A good shop can still pull data from the ecm. That’s really the only way if you’re not going to wrench it yourself. Could be a bad O2 sensor., vac line leak, FPR is shot, even a bad temp sensor can make the ecm run the car rich.

Welcome to the forum! First things first, get that crossover replaced, that will cause all kinds of running issues with it. Exhaust leaks wreck how these cars run. A point of advise, probably not relevant at the moment but I seem to remember decreasing the spark plug gap from whatever the factory recommends to help with some other running issues. There is only one person i'm aware of who repairs those at this point. Forum member GOT2BGM aka Matt Shantz he's not on the forum much these days I'm sure he's active on the various facebook w body groups but regardless i'll shoot him a message to drop by the forum.

So sorry, here I am asking for help and I go off the radar. Here is the pic...it looks like it's attached to the glass actually. I've attached also a pic of the car - such as shame as everything is perfect on it, 13,000 original miles. Love to get this fixed. Sorry the pic looks so huge.

Pretty sure every one of these cars use this

yes indeed...

You're welcome.

So, a few weeks ago, I was driving my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible over to a friend's house, and the car started running a little hot, not overheating, but hotter than I was comfortable with. When I got back home, I looked under the hood, the overflow jug was empty and things were quite wet down by the water pump. It was right at the end of the spring semester, so I just didn't have time to mess with it, beyond pouring in a gallon of antifreeze until today, when I sent it over to my mechanic's shop, and amazingly, he had a water pump for it sitting on the shelf, had the whole thing done in less than four hours. That just never happens. Even better, it was a comparatively inexpensive repair. He was a little afraid there might have been head gasket damage, but everything checked out okay in the end. The best part was the repair was a bit less expensive than I expected. He ballparked it at around $280-$400, and it came in at $281 and change. I'm stoked that I don't have to miss anymore prime convertible weather.

That's what the mechanic said. It was a very easy fix because everything was relatively easy to access. I have no idea about special tools; I just knew that repair was above my pay grade.

How many special tools have you had to aquire? I bought a Kent-Moore GM 3.4 DOHC tool kit off of EBay years ago, but haven't looked in a while to see what is available anymore.

I don't have experience with the older on board computers but a standard OBD2 scanner will not fit a pre-96 car. It's a different system.

Has anyone used one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/404754218886?epid=169594596&itmmeta=01HXN86SDHPDG0QC354JY4A2JH&hash=item5e3d3b3f86:g:hNcAAOSwLX9lx9Ja&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwB1bYArsSNNQTeXRP0konEpGR207mbIaDI8geL2Bbyet%2Fp16sFpjEYFKKUSMthFDxpvVSOoL2cL03Gpo2fAz5ukJfFaqnLMZH4YY6450FiMDkVSnE0jReCnJkhYvk8UBp8b%2Bw7lP6O14KDnrKwhIvt%2BK7qUTQqfdkSEceFgYt3aDMIF4KoBo3jA03sEMv%2BxnCLiZq076jyHBWct%2FD1ZeaAzgU%2BBWE1HmQ3OHD00iYIP5bZgT4H4Lb8SSCaI6x6MAYQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-yWm6jtYw

What is the fuel pressure? How old are the usual "tune-up" items--plug wires, spark plugs, O2 sensor, verify PCV, EGR, and EVAP systems. Check cranking compression pressure. How old is the timing belt? Connect a scan tool, verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Check fuel trims. O2 sensors get lazy with age. If the O2 sensor has more than 50,000 miles or 5 years on it, it's probably due for replacement. If there's a misfiring cylinder, it can drive the O2 sensor to report a false-lean condition. That will drive the computer into rich-command. Expect that the rich running has murdered the catalyst.

Which gasket are you referring too? The ones that match up to the exhaust manifolds or headers?

Possibly, the turbo is a Garrett T25/28 series... do a search for the turbo flange gasket for that model turbo, I'd imagine that they are still a common item. I've been out of Chrysler turbo cars for some time now.

As for impossible to find exhaust gaskets, could this Fel-Pro stuff be cut to fit? https://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/2499/10002/-1

Fortunately my crossover pipe still seems in good to ok shape for now but its something Ive looked into replacing for sure. Going by the supplement the crossover comes off without any specific instructions really aside from rotating the engine to get at the "rear" of the engine.

A repaired crossover will look like this..... I don't personally know where the turbo flange gasket is available from anymore. Where your *lack of boost* issue is concerned remove the actuator arm from the wastegate valve & try to move the valve lever. It should not be seized. Now test the pressure diaphragm inside the dashpot using a simple handheld vacuum pump to see if the diaphragm has not failed, you're looking for no loss in the reading on the vacuum gauge. The wastegate is normally *closed* due to a return spring inside the dashpot. You'll need to test the wastegate solenoid as well, the solenoid is also closed by default which causes the boost pressure from the turbo to open the wastegate to reduce boost pressure to the engine. Sort out your DTC's first, the turbo wastegate being open shouldn't upset the engine at idle as the wastegate is open at idle, as long as the engine is running the turbo is supplying various amounts of boost.

Thank you guys for chiming in. I do need those to diagnose better. The fuel injectors are coming and I did replace the alternator for the high voltage. I must have code 43 wrong 55 trucker. I came up with knock sensor error. I will look into it better. Nice to meet you Rich with the tgp. Not to look too far ahead but how did you go about fixing the crossover? I plan to remove it and take it to an exhaust shop and have them do their magic. Thinking I should buy a couple of these flex pipe things. Not sure the diameter of the pipe yet though.

Code 21 = TPS sensor circuit Code 43= ESC (electronic spark control) circuit Code 53 = system over voltage.........occurs when the ECM sees an ignition fuel reference of more than 17 volts.

Agreeing here with what everyone else is saying. Here in the States, it seems the Z34/5 speed cars are the most common. If I were you, and if you're really wanting a 5 speed car, I buy a 5 speed GTP, PLUS...a Z34/5 speed car for just parts. You could then scavenge what you needed from it to get the GTP reliable, (if it's not already), or have a back up parts car for when the time is needed. I post any rare cars that come up for sale here so please keep an eye out for that information. I also post junkyard cars that people can scavenge from in order to keep our cars alive and road worthy. I also do it for historical reference as well.

Hey Brad. I saw both of those GTPs on Facebook marketplace. I live in Kelowna so check often (looking for parts always). I’d pull the trigger on the blue GTP just because I love that colour on a GTP. I checked just now though and can’t find it so maybe it is sold. The white GTP is back up for 4500 I’ve never seen it around Kelowna so not sure if it’s like mine and just sits most of the time. It has the B4U lower valance intact so that’s a huge plus. You could probably get the seller to move on the price. GTPs of this era hardly ever come up in BC so you should pounce. You might not ever see another in that shape again around here. As for 5speeds. I’ve only ever come across 3 of them in my life. And 2 of those 3 transmissions are on my bench and took 15 years to score way back. I have all the parts for a swap and slowly working towards an engine rebuild and install. Forget the 5 speed it’s a true unicorn now, was 20 years ago. Even if you found a complete junk parts car all your efforts are best placed to just get an auto to restore over time and enjoy. I would look carefully at the trailing arm mounts for rust, if it’s solid there go for either car. If you get the white one painting the hood louvers white should be your first order of business. just heat the screws up before you take ‘em out.

It's always in Carlisle , the last time I was there was 9 years ago.

GM Nationals?

Thanks again, we`re going to have to get all these cars together at some point so you can check it out. Its been years since a meet up happened. Shes going to the show, May 17-19. I`m going to try to find some seat covers that fit good and might give that dash cover a shot on RA to hide the crack. The paint might not be in the best of shape with the orange peel and fading wheel arches and I`m not the best at talking with strangers but it should be a good time.

Cam is in, got engine bay cleaned up and wires wrapped a little better, exhaust painted aswell

Doing that "in the chassis" would never happen in MY driveway. That engine would come OUT, so I didn't have to work on my back like a prostitute for the whole job. Flip the engine over on an engine stand, rather than flipping the worker over on the concrete. Likely get a better job done with the main seal, pan gaskets, etc. High mileage? Timing set, rings, head gaskets and valve job. MAYBE bore + pistons, crank grind, block decking...

It appears you can raise the engine enough to clear the oil pan with the subframe in place on a 3100.

So the aftermarket radio my cutlass came with from the previous owner is awful and I hate it. Luckily they did use the wire adapter and didn't hack up the factory harness. I just purchased Joying Android 10.0 Head Unit Octa Core 4GB+64GB 7 Inch Single Din from Amazon and should be at my house on this sunday. I will post pre and post install pictures for everyone on here. I'm just going to be reusing the harness and install kit that was already there. I will give updates down the road of my likes and dislikes of the new head unit. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. (I hated my radio enough that I decided to replace it before I fixed my top lol)

Yeah, that's it Greg, up here in the salt belt they are prone to rotting out if not coated to protect them.

^ Greg, what fluid are you making use of in the steering system? trans fluid or power steering fluid? Trans fluid is NOT the proper fluid for the system. It generally has a lower viscosity than power steering fluid, due to the friction modifiers can cause a whining in the pump, over time can ruin the seals in the rack, ps fluid is thicker & the system will function smoother. Seeing as the car is equipped with the 3.4 LQ1 is the original return line with the cooler extension in there? are you getting any sort of shimmy in the steering wheel when on center ( car is going straight)?

Not a swap for the faint-of-heart.

Mine's still working, which is a good thing since I can't find one.:( Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement as I'm sure I'll need one at some point. In the mean time I get to try and figure out why my top will go down but not up on it's own. lol

If you have a set of the ST springs you'll find the drop at the front is approx 1.5 inches using the original rubber hardware, I had a set of those sitting on the shelf for more than 10 years. I couldn't find any Intrax at the time I was looking for drop springs, last year I finally did the cars suspension, the ST are a linear rate spring like the OEM springs. In my case that is better for the car where clearance is concerned seeing as the tires outer corners are directly under the wheelwell lip, spring compression can't allow contact between the tire & the fender lip, the other 3 bodylines don't display this issue as the fenders cover the wheels entirely. They do rider firmer, but to me that's not a negative seeing as (in my mind) the oem ride is far too soft. The new rear spring is as the chart shows 330lbs. per inch spring rate, this firms up the rear, along with the custom alignment the car corners more exactly, flatter, considerably less understeer. The car doesn't *float* anymore.

Does anyone know if the 91-93 Z34's uses a speed sensor mounted on the steering racks? I know the GP and Cutlass did. It's part # 10096157/10204102 if they used them. Thank you.

It's a misconception that one or all need to *go to* Birchmount Spring here near to me in Toronto to get a replacement steel leaf spring for their car. Any spring shop can fab up a replacement multi leaf arrangement, the shop just needs to know what spring rate you want, how many leaves you require (the fewer the better ..more than 1 leaf), the total length of the leaves, the ride height you're looking for. What you see below is what is under my car...the shop I approached arched the 2 leaves to the right height I wanted, seeing as this is a transverse spring each leaf on each side has to be tweeked to ensure that each side of the car's ride height is identical.

Gotcha. Thank you for the accurate description. I was just making a guess. So...the Z34's do use this sensor as well then?

It had to be saved, it was going to the Jawas otherwise. All Jiggity57`s fault for posting it. I got into a bit of a race the other day when I probably shouldnt have. I made a right turn and immediately found a speeding BMW attempting to swerve around me from a sharp corner in the right lane. I laid into the pedal a bit, chirped the tires and heard an awesome turbo wastegate PAHHTISHHHHH and left the kraut cart far into the rearview mirror. Scared the hell out of me and blew the lower hose off the turbo in the process. I love this freakin` car! Decades after WW2 and we can still put the Messerschmitt`s in their place, just not in a P51 Mustangs.

Here are some 5 speed stats for you. I think finding the cleanest car body wise you can auto or 5 speed would be your best bet. even if it needs mechanical work, that can be done overtime.

Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.

This one has your name al over it! Being California car it should be reall clean https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/290176733382939/?mibextid=6ojiHh

I've done it both ways. Doing a factory vacuum swap is a gigantic pain, but possible if you want to pull the dashboard apart and most of the engine bay. It also comes with issues of its own. the factory non ABS master is at a different angle to PMIII and comes VERY close to the turbo. I've thought about this and in my junkyard trips it looks like J and N cars of the era used the same master but angled up slightly, that may help the issue of it being close to the Turbo but it may also bring its own set of issues. never done it but its been on the back of my mind. Also you'll need to run 2 new rear brake lines. making absolutely sure to not get them backwards since you'll no longer be running a Front-Rear Split setup but a Cross- diagonal so the Front left needs to be on the same side of the master as right rear and front right needs to be on the same side as left rear. You can't get away with just one as the factory rear brake line is 1/4" or something like that and standard are much smaller. What I did on my Red Turbo GP was remove everything PMIII off the firewall and use a 4th gen F body booster and master. It has the advantage of also being Front rear split so you don't have to mess with the brake lines to the rear of the car and it can be done in a day or 2, not weeks. What I did, and I know others have done it differently I made an adapter plate of aluminum to bolt to the factory bolts then put my own holes in for the F body booster. You DO have to cut holes in your factory firewall plate for this. and in the future i'd do it a bit different and cut most of it away so I could access the booster bolts easily from the inside of the car I did have to cut and extend the pushrod from the booster so it was the same length as PMIII Was. Just cut and welded that. I considered threading the rod and putting a turnbuckle on it to get it proper. Now the fun part is the brake lines. Since we live in america getting metric fittings is a bigger pain then it should be. I changed everything to 1/4 fittings, took the front brake lines and put them into a t fitting, and then made a brake line to go from that to the master. For the rear I also changed the fittings to SAE but then put it into a reducer to get the size of the line down to fit into the master, again just made and extension tube to get it how it needed to be. Not the cleanest part of the install but it does work quite well. If I ever get around to working on TGPs again i'll be doing this same modification to my Black TGP as I fully believe PMIII is not fit for purpose at this point. I'll revisit the modification at that time and fine tune it then.