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I just dropped the tank on my Lumina a few days ago. Don’t cut a hole in the floor, it’s really not that hard, just kind of sucks to reattach the vapor lines. In a nutshell… -there’s an exhaust heat shield that had to come off. -unplug 2 fuel lines, 3 vapor lines, the electrical connection, and two fuel fill pipes at the tank. -15mm bolts on the straps, and it comes down. It took me all of 10 mins to drop the tank. I’ve replaced the tank and fuel sending unit twice (from rust damage from sitting) and a third to reseal the sending/pump unit. Delphi pumps are good, but buy a GM fuel sending unit gasket. Don’t use aftermarket.

I've done it at least 4 times, maybe more. I'd recommend just dropping the tank. If the fuel pump still runs, I'd just use that to pump out the fuel to reduce the weight. Although if it were me, I'd invest in a fuel pressure gauge to make sure the pump needs replacing. Mine used to make loud howling sounds at half a tank and below, but it did that for over 12-years before I replaced it. No problem to do with just jack stands.

3100s were tougher. 94-95 3.4 DOHC still had socketed MEMCAL/PROM. 3100s on the other hand, I believe they were flash PCMs like the 96 OBD II PCMs. I don't know that anyone ever got into the flash PCMs.

Got ahead of the curve on this one. Last year I had my tired A/C Compressor swapped out for a new one. Bought an A/C Delco compressor new. Flipped the switch the first hot day around here a few weeks ago. Nothing. It was the "every year's plague" of re-filling the system with fresh R-134. Only this year this trick did not work. Nothing. Fortunately I have found a place that is willing to work on these 3.4 motors, a local Chevy Dealership with a mechanic that's got a 53 years experience track record who knows these motors. As usual I buck-shotted this repair, I sent the car in with a trunkload of NOS parts, even including another new Delco Compressor. Turned out the low pressure line and the valve was toast, major leaks. All is well (and cold) now, just in time for a long South Carolina summer. Which starts this week, going by the predicted temps. Looks like I get to put that New Compressor on the shelf for next time. And we all know that will be a next time down the road........

The softer the spring one uses the stiffer the dampening that's needed to keep ones ride from *floating*. Are these Rev9 shocks single or double acting?

TGPforums.com is now working again. It is still in archive status, meaning no new member registrations are allowed, but the forum is searchable without the need for a registered account.

Don't know how important this was to the corrosion resistance, but I forgot to mention I primed mine with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compound spray. It worked surprisingly well as a primer on bare metal. It never chipped, flaked, or peeled. I don't know if it's the same formula today as the one I used a couple decades ago. Photos looks like it's now a smooth gray primer appearance, but mine was a very sparkly shiny bright metallic silver color. Almost looked like fine very fine glitter. Still have the can and looks like it's the same can as the current product though, so who knows.

When I did brakes on my truck, I used black caliper paint, just to protect the calipers, center of rotors, and the rear drums. It's held up fine. Anything driven up here in the salt, the brakes usually start looking bad after just a year.

Here is info for the the swap based on my own experience of swapping my 88 cutlass w-body. 3800 swap w-body From 98/99 Monte Carlo z34/lumina LTZ with 3.8NA Needed - power steering lines (buy new) - Heater hoses (buy new) - Exhaust downpipe (or have one made) - AC system - all lines/parts from the engine bay (compressors can be from the gtp too) Best to have from the Monte Carlo/lumina but not mandatory - engine bay wiring harness - Cv shafts (buy new if you don’t have them) From gtp donor - motor - Trans - Trans cooler lines - rad hoses - Motor mounts - Cv shafts - PCM - Engine bay wiring harness Notes: cv shafts if using an HD trans you need to use the gtp passenger inner with the 1st Gen shaft and outer joint. If you get them from the Monte you can use the stock Monte drivers side. Wiring: if you can’t find the Monte Carlo harness you can use the gtp harnesss, and merge it into the 1st Gen c100 connector. With the Monte harness it comes with the c100 you just need to remove a few pins around and overall much easier but can be hard to find. You’ll need the GM service manuals for your donor harness and your original car to match the c100 connector. If using a Monte harness you will probably want to add the BBV wiring. This will also convert the car to obd2 PCM: you will need to get the vats/security removed(it’s possible it won’t be an issue but be aware it probably will be) and probably want to remove a few other codes. Rad: you could use your original, but the donor gtp rad will be bigger and fits into the chassis. I’d say it’s recommended but not 100% necessary.

Like the title says, I am a new member now, but I was a fairly regular member here around 15-20 years ago. My screen name at that time was Regal_GS_1989. I originally owned an 89 Regal GS coupe, a 92 Cutlass International Coupe, and finally a 2000 Regal Sedan. Life got busy, I stopped posting regularly, and the 2000 was sold off about 10 years ago for something newer and more family friendly. Time has marched on, and I am now in a position where I have the time and resources to be able to own a “weekend” vehicle. As luck, or possibly fate would have it, this beauty quite literally fell into my lap at the perfect moment… A 92 Regal GS Coupe. Black, Grey leather interior, low milage, One owner, garage kept its entire life, ordered new with every option box checked off…save for the sunroof. It’s truly worthy of the term survivor, and it’s exactly how I would have ordered one myself back in the day. Gotta say…it feels sort of strange to be back here posting again about a 1st gen coupe…but I can get used to that I am also surprised at how many screen names I still recognize as well!

final thought, if you use a 4t65 from an l36 or any 3x00 you can use the tq converter that come with it. if from an l67 youll need to swap tq converters as l67sone wont bolt to a 3x00

4T60e(HD)? I didn't think the 4t60 came HD? That would've been in Riveria's? (Still learning) (Disclaimer): this is mostly just by observation of Regals/Olds 88's that i noticed.... In the 95 and older 3800, there are two motor mounts, one in the front of the engine and one in the back that attaches to the transmission which is a two piece. The 96 & newer have one engine mount under the center of the engine and this bracket that is one piece that attaches the trans end to the back of the block. I had GM dealer run a 'where used', this part number and they said this bracket is only used in 96 Buick regal. Not saying their book is correct. Now i'm looking through my pics from junkyard. Looks like where the bracket attaches is different, but would've worked? 96 Regal Bracket Pre 96 4t60e Looks like they attach to different holes on the trans, one is between trans and block the other is above the trans (96). The 96 really made it difficult to get the the last bolt on the trans/block. Dont know if the others would be easier? I went with the 96 because I knew it would work from SeriesII and I was able to buy it.