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Idk which one it is and I dont really want to run the engine any longer to risk damaging the crank or the rod.. It noticed it knocking at 2000rpms after I went full throttle to avoid an accident on the interstate on the way home from work... Motor has high mileage so i bet it just didnt have enough oil pressure to keep the bearing lubricated at 5200ish rpms. Time to roll in some new bearings if the crank isnt damaged but I doubt it is because you can only hear the knock over 2k rpms

My 1st thought is ....what has caused a bearing started to knocking? They don't do so because they like to....... The most obvious answer would be ......poor oil pressure. which bearing is the one that has the knock? Front of the engine or rear.......

It appears you can raise the engine enough to clear the oil pan with the subframe in place on a 3100.

Really? You cant just lower it at an angle and wiggle it out?

The subframe is in the way. In order to remove the oil pan, the subframe will have to be removed.

It just started knocking, It was only running for 20 minutes or so once it started. I have swapped bearings into motors that had worse knock than this and it turned out just fine, I'm just wondering if it is possible with these cars to drop the oil pan completely or does the subframe need to be removed.

If it is knocking, you likely need to replace or rebuild the engine.

has anyone else changed out the bearings with the motor in the car successfully? I cant find any other threads on this site, and I don't have the time or money to replace the engine.

Take a peek at this picture, what is part #9? Almost would make you think it's this part that is attached to the glass - no?

I will take a peek if I can see any print on the glass... I'd be curious if it was identical to the coupe as I'd probably have more luck finding a hardtop with a good glass than a convertible. Jiggity76, I'd be interested if your friend has anything - then I'd have to figure out the best way to retrieve it...Afterall, Iowa is a long way from Ontario Canada, lol. I may attempt a short term fix - perhaps colored epoxy injected into the crack...wonder if it's been tried.

Can you see any small white print anywhere on the glass? Mines covered and its raining otherwise I`d check. Carlite will print part numbers on their glass and thats usually the factory brand used. Hopefully thats what the convertibles conversions used too...

IMG_8182.mov

Very beautiful car that's for sure! Unfortunately, that part isn't a separate part from the door glass. In other words, that rubber seal or gasket came attached to the door glass and was installed on the assembly line from GM's glass supplier. Whoever supplied the glass for our cars, that was included at their manufacturing facility. GM just gives a part # for the entire door glass and not just for that seal. I'm guessing you'll have to find a door glass with a good seal already attached, or somehow figure out how it's attached to the glass, and swap it over to your vert. It might be better to talk with a glass supply/repair shop or just swap out the entire glass with another one that has a good seal. GM's part # for the entire door glass is 10188181. That number isn't showing that any are available NOS anymore. Again, your only options are glass shops or a good used glass with that seal from a junkyard or parts vehicle. If you're interested, I might know a guy who has a stash of parts convertibles and he will more than likely have a good door glass with that seal. By the way, for 1995, only 338 cars were made in Bright Red, White interior, and White top.

I have a 94 gp with what sounds like the beginning of a rod knock when the engine is warmed up, i know on a 3800 you can swap out the barings with the motor still in the car by pushing the top bearing around the crank journal and out. Is this possible with the 3100 and what do I need to do to take the oil pan.

So sorry, here I am asking for help and I go off the radar. Here is the pic...it looks like it's attached to the glass actually. I've attached also a pic of the car - such as shame as everything is perfect on it, 13,000 original miles. Love to get this fixed. Sorry the pic looks so huge.

Now that some of these cars (especially the 1st gens) are 30-35 years old, are these cars starting to go up in price? I bought my 95 prix at a buy here pay here lot for $1400 with 170k miles on it. I have seen multiple 97 and 98 GP's with 150kish going for 3 or 4 grand. One 97 GTP with low miles sold for $10K!! Meanwhile every once in a blue moon when a 1st gen comes up on marketplace, it is usually in between $1000 and $2000. Because the 97-03s seem to be going up in price one would assume that the 1st gens would also go up in price but it doesn't seem that way to me. The only "expensive" 1st gens I see are the McLaren turbo ones. The 2nd gen w bodies seem to be much better documented and well regarded than the 1st gens are. I believe it is because of how popular and well regarded the 3800 series II supercharged engine is, but I don't know.

can you use hardware (bold and nut) to hold the new stripping on rather then riveting it back into place?

can someone post a link(s) or part #'s or the exact type for SWC adapter for my 93 cutlass. I'm having no luck finding one. Thanks

Here's the before and after pics. The wiring harness adapter i have does not have the SWC on it. So I have to find one for it. Anyone have any leads on one? But everything else works great and sounds pretty good too.

I do have access to a couple wrecked impalas I just haven't ever gotten a good look at them to know if they'd be a direct bolt up or not. Another thing is I don't know how much work it would be. In my mind if im correct in assuming that they are the same bolt pattern from the subframe to car then it shouldn't be to much more work than a regular subframe swap, right? maybe a bit extra wiring and exhaust work but whatever.

I know that caster doesnt cause tire wear, I was just implying that if the control arm is bent then the camber angle might also be off and might wear the tires. The shock towers at the top look slightly ovaled out towards the center of the car so i bet they did that to "mask" the issue like you stated. I cant think of anything else that could cause a bad caster angle on these, and my control arm is pretty crusty after 29 years of Minnesota weather (only reason its not in the junkyard from the rust is because the previous owner fluid filmed it frequently LOL) It doesnt pull on a "flat" road, and the caliper is fine.

Thank you. With my car being an Oklahoma car, no salt issues but I'm still going to replace it.

Caster won't cause tire wear, if the caster is out of adjustment the vertical angle of the axis is just *off*. If indeed this IS your problem then it's possible that somewhere back up the road the issue has been *masked* by a previous shop. You didn't state whether the vehicle actually pulls to the right on a flat road, is the right front caliper dragging?

Yeah, that's it Greg, up here in the salt belt they are prone to rotting out if not coated to protect them.

Ah yes, I know what you're referring to now. I was wondering why that section was so long and why it went all around the cradle. Interesting about the rack. I'm assuming my car has it's original rack at 153,000 miles but who knows for sure. I do have an NOS ready to go into the car so might as well use it. Since I'm in there, I'll replace the lines, seals, and pump as well. What's the point of having all these parts if they don't go to use. Thank you as always. This metal hard line that goes to the front of the cradle...that's what you're referring too right as the extended length piping?