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I've got an issue with my 2006 Buick LaCrosse where the RPM's surge anywhere between 1800 and 2200 RPMs. Sometimes the bounce will be +/- 100, while other times the engine will bounce a bit more aggressively, likely +/- 200 to 300 RPMs. As soon as I let off or put more pressure on the pedal, the issue disappears. This issue began almost immediately after I replaced my Air Filter, but I've checked it 1000 times to make sure it's the right size and that it's seated properly. I've even replaced it with another filter, but it didn't stop. Now, I'm aware similar posts have been made, but the solutions I've found haven't worked. I cleaned my MAF, cleaned my EGR, replaced my Throttle Body, bought new spark plugs and wires, and tried a vacuum leak test with a can of Carb Cleaner, and nothing has shown up to be a problem. Another thing that makes my problem unique is that this issue will stop sometimes, mostly after I disconnect the battery for a few hours. However, it'll start back up again after a few weeks of it driving completely normal. This is the part that has really stumped me. As for data on my scan tool, the only thing I've identified that may be an issue is that my Fuel Trim seems to always be negative. It seems to be -5 at idle, and between -10 to -15 when driving. I'm not sure what's causing this, but I have no check engine lights indicating that there's any type of fuel problem. I've also checked my mass airflow sensor data, and it seems to be reading as you'd expect, but the data does bounce up and down when the engine and RPMs do. Otherwise, the data seems completely normal. I'm no mechanic, so there could be valuable data I'm missing, and I'd happily upload my data if someone here is willing to look at it. I've been left completely stumped by this issue, and it seems to be becoming slowly more frequent as time does on. I'm not sure what my next step should be, and I'd greatly appreciate some help here

Any alignment shop will have the cars specs programmed into the racks electronic head unit. That shouldn't be an issue.

Ha! I knew there was something I was forgetting. Yes in fact there is indeed an update... Ive not seen any differences in the carpets other than the rear area I posted earlier about. Ive got the convertible carpet removed completely and have been deep cleaning. I dont see any structural differences in the floor pan layout between the coupe and convertible until you get to just behind the rear seats. Life events are holding me up ordering the carpets right now. But when I do I personally will be ordering two identical slate grey carpets from RockAuto for a 1994 Cutlass Supreme and trimming one to fit my 1995 convertible.

Thanks I really appreciate the update. Just keep me posted. Thanks again.

So...what should I do here guys come alignment time at a shop? Take all this info with me? Do you think they'll have specs saved in their system for our cars?

You noticed that was well.... in my 91 service manual the *service checking* angle is +.10 (or) 1/10 degree positive ...plus or minus .5 (or) 1/2 degree service setting is + .5 degree...plus or minus .5 degree

Kinda depends on the suspension geometry. If the suspension tends to go negative when the spring is compressed, a static positive setting MIGHT be appropriate. But I don't know if that's the case for an Olds Cutlass. I entirely do not understand how the "Service Checking" camber spec is -1.5 + or - .5 (Range -1 to -2) while the Service Setting is +.75. Doesn't make sense to me. ESPECIALLY since the Caster and Toe "Checking" spec and "Service" spec are essentially the same thing. I suspect an error in the service manual spec for camber "service" spec. Should be -1.5.

Any updates on carpet fitment?

Interesting. I suppose better handling and sportiness is the goal now.

I don't think there is an auto manufacturer who where their current models are concerned uses a + (positive) setting for either the front or rear camber. General handling purposes are now usually a - (negative) camber setting. Much better handling characteristics than any setting at a + (positive) camber angle

This will be some good information that I can arm myself with when it comes time to have the International's alignment checked. I will definitely be bringing this with me to hopefully help the tech out...and therefor myself.

Gibb's rule #6...never say you're sorry..lol

Sorry, wasn't really asking a question but thought I would just post it for guys not having the manual or needing this repair done.

LOL........what's the question?

Cutlass Supreme.

What vehicle?

It was the ecm. Codes would keep coming back and stalling on to other problems. Would love to find a chip if anyone knows of any available. Still need to fix the crossover and the brakes work but the light is on and the abs runs every pedal push. Found the place in Pittsburgh who can rebuild for 950. going to do the transmission fluid next. It shifts super firm. Only in the higher rpm’s but didn’t expect that. Works good though. can feel the turbo now. Another thing the ecm wouldn’t let work. I hope a chip would let it get a little more. I don’t know if the leaky crossover would mess with that or not? The psi in the manifold. I wouldn’t think so but I don’t know thanks for helping and hopefully this can help someone out someday.

I can see the box in the back of my garage. Still can not get to it at the moment... Getting there!

Update on the water temp lamp: it does turn on when grounding the sensor at it's connector. So the Instrument Cluster works just fine, exept during the lamp test when starting the car. According to the service manual, the temperature lamp test procedure just happens because the input of the sensor is connected to ground by turning the key in the start position, which is all happening outside of the instrument cluster. In my previous post I said the sensor effectively grounds when turning the key to start, but I actually measure an open loop between C4 (sensor) and D8 (supposed to be ground) of the connector that goes into the cluster, until the key goes to the start position: then I measure 54 Ohm. which is sufficient to make the gage go all the way up (60 ohm would correspond to 137°C or 279°F), but is maybe just not low enough for the lamp: the service manual states the indicator control unit switches the lamp on at ca. 60 ohm and below. I will investigate this a bit more, it seems something is wrong here, logically, I should measure the resistance of the sensor in any key position except start, and less then 1 ohm when the key is in start.

Can someone help me program a 2001 pcm off a Monte to work on a 2003 4t65e since the valve body and internal wiring was changed during this year. I've been looking for a alternative pcm by the way but I'm focusing on seeing if i can get help on programming the 03 sensors since i used credits on hp tuners already.

Thank you. Not in this case actually. This was my car's original motor with 153,000 miles. I couldn't figure out what was causing it to NOT start after years of working on it when I had the time and money. The culprit ended up being a faulty wiring harness due to the previous owners not correctly repairing it...totally not the cars fault. My NOS motor of course has a brand new O ring that you're referring too. I have since put an NOS motor in it and it runs beautifully. I just completed about 1,000 miles on it. Yeah, these motors get a bad rap I feel. I'm not one of those people. I actually prefer the LQ1 over any other motor that was available in these cars. I also own a 93 Grand Prix STE with the same drivetrain and wouldn't want it any other way! I am well versed mechanically now in these motors and have the patience, determination, and like anything mechanical, the correct tools. The specialty tools are very much needed when working on an LQ1. The same goes for any 4 cam 24 valve engine from this era from any manufacturer really.

@jiggity76 - that is impressive work. Have you replaced the oil plug gasket/o-ring? When bought my Cutlass in 2007, I told a mechanic that It had the 3.4 DOHC, he advised me to sell the vehicle. He had a Pontiac with the 3.4 and hated working on it due to the tight clearances and the added complexity the DOHC configuration added to the engine.

Do you have a write up on this? I need to do this so I can have a horn again. lol

I'm looking to do this swap on my 93 vert. What would i need to do this? or would it be plug and play??? I see that in the 94 it is a different pin out. I know the 93 is different then the 94's though. Has anyone here done it in a 93?