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After seeing the code list, my thoughts are now that you're either going to be dealing with a bad sensor somewhere on the 5 volt reference B side possibly shorting out internally and taking down everything else, a chafed wire or corroded connector somewhere.....or even a failed PCM. I would ignore the harsh shifting and random no-start at this time, since those are likely just symptoms of the overall issue. 5 volt sensors generally work based on a voltage output to represent a particular value. Take your range sensor. It would receive a 5 volt signal, and would output a different voltage to represent PRND321. If the 5 volt signal going into the sensor is being pulled down slightly and randomly by something else, the output voltage will change, and the PCM can interpret those changes as different reported shifter positions. If the vehicle is off and its reporting something other than park or neutral....it won't start. It may also begin shifting funny as it no longer knows which position the shifter is in. If it were me...I'd be starting my troubleshooting on that 5 volt reference branch first.

My scanner is a WiFi iPhone scanner. It is mostly read only. I could dig deeper into its live reading but all I’ve ever monitored was misfires and temps and very simple PIDs. Unfortunately that level of scanner is the only one in my budget. I agree live data would be helpful. Last week after the first check engine light that included p0651 I cleared all codes and forgot about it and hoped it was a fluke (I can dream). And then when it started doing the shifting problem I had no CEL and only read codes for the sake of it. I cleared the second set of codes and hoped it was the heavy rain that day. (Seriously a big dreamer here) that was the P0742 the first time I believe the last set of codes was after checking the connections at the PCM and DIC and cleaning up the battery connections for good measure. There was still no CEL on the dash. We drove it up the frontage road and back as soon as it shifted hard between 1-2 thanks for the ongoing help. I’ll have much better info when I can get in there more. Currently not able to work on it due to work.

Let's start here..........what are you using as a scanner? Is it dedicated OBD2 scanner such as a Matco/Snap-on/OTC? Is it a laptop with a scanner program loaded onto the laptop? You want to clear all of those codes, start & run the car in *real time* (the laptop/scanner connected) & drive until those codes reappear. They're going to be either soft codes or hard codes. Hard codes will not clear until the problem(s) have been solved. Soft codes usually clear after a number of ignition key/engine run cycles & the PCM corrects.

That PO742 doesn't sound, if indeed the TCC is locked due to a fault in either the electronic circuitry, the solenoid passage is mechanically gummed up or the clutch is mechanically locked that'll have a severe effect on the engines ability to try to turn over. If in either Park or Neutral & one tries to start the engine if the torque converter isn't releasing the engine will stall near instantly. In effect the converter is locked up & the converter turbine & impeller will not spin freely of each other. Lock up should only occur in O/D,D & 3rd. Yes, one has to pull the trans side cover to get at the range selector. That may mean pulling the trans from the car.

These were the codes I got when the shifting became very harsh.

Yes it’s an 04. And oddly I am not finding the usual YouTube school of fixin’ videos. Is it a drop the pan kinda job? I’ll be under there next week with some scrutiny and a flashlight. I got some codes last week that were concerning too. That’s why I started with the PCM inspection.

Agreed. When it comes to 1st gen sedans, I think the Cutlass was the best looking one of the bunch. The 1st gens were ultimately designed as coupes, and that’s how they look their best. The Regal definitely is my favourite one of the bunch, with the cutlass coming in at a close 2nd.

You did say that your car is an '04? The range selector switch/neutral safety switch is internal on an '04 model. It's not mounted to the outside of the case.

Before you change the range sensor, double check that you don’t have any chafed wiring, corroded pins in the connector etc… first. Don’t want to replace it if there is something else at play. I can just about guarantee that your no starts and rough shifts are all related, so I wouldn’t worry about those until you get the range sensor issue worked out.

04 GP GTP. The DIC screen shows mileage and the shift position. However the position it reads is going all over between 1 2 3 P D crazy like while driving or sitting. Also the shift between 1-2 is like getting shoved from behind harsh. Checked the pcm and what wires I can get at, checked battery and cables, unplugged and replugged DIC. Going to look at the Neutral Safety Switch and the plug on the Transmission. never seen anything like this before. Also it doesn’t always want to start at all. Like no crank at all. This is why I’m hoping the Neutral Safety Switch. any expertise????

Yes, the wheels are very rare! It's my understanding that almost all of these wheels that went to the north all corroded and were destroyed by salt. I only see 2 other Regal coupe's by me but they are very rusted, and they are all the Custom trim. Buyer demand was on a shift towards sedans and more room for the family, but in my opinion the sedans were a much uglier design! The Regal coupe is a very sharp design.

Welcome. That car looks amazing! Definitely somewhat of a rare car, even when new. Seems like the Regal coupes were fairly out of style by that time. Having those wheels makes it even rarer. Can’t say that I’ve ever seen a 95-96 coupe in person, but I still see the odd sedan out and about. Definitely have not seen any Regal in person with those wheels on it either.

Hey, all! New to the W-Body forums and learning so much about these cars! I recently purchased a 1996 Buick Regal GS coupe from my grandma, who bought this brand new in December 1995 from Van Atta Buick in Vestal, NY. It was a daily driver for 2 years (has not seen salt since 1998), and became an exclusive summer driver after that. It did, of course not always see road time. They always had a couple other cars that they drove around, and sometimes the Regal would sit for an entire summer (or 2) without any new mileage on it! It was always kept in a enclosed, heated garage and waxed 2x a year (even if the car didnt physically go anywhere that year it was still cleaned up)! Fast forward to 2026, the Regal had been sitting for 6 years, not driven, merely tucked away, covered up, and forgotten about. Grandma decided she wants to sell the Regal, as sitting is doing nothing for its value (as it sat it had just over 29k miles on it, WITH THE ORIGINAL TIRES STILL ON IT). We came to an agreement on price and it became my car! Purchased just after July 4th, I simply gave it a really good bath, buff, polish, ceramic coating, and some little maintenance items before taking this absolute treasure of a survivor to local car shows, and simply enjoying the ride quality of a practically still new 96 Regal GS Coupe. Finished in the beautiful Dark Toreador Metallic with ruby red leather interior WITH the 3800 V6! I wonder how many of these are still out there, with this color and option combination and mileage! Check out the photos, admire it's beauty! Attached is also an odometer photo after I got the car home to me.

I just remove my rear heads. The exhaust we got with two open end wrenches from the top. I did spray some PB blaster but wasn’t 10 minutes after that. I can’t believe I didn’t hear about these hardly having heads blow. My Intake gasket is what it was I’m pretty sure but I guess I decided to go further. It’s a 2000 bonneville l36 series ii

I have been passed down a 1992 Cutlass Supreme from my father in law. The car has 80K miles and runs like a champ, however it has a bunch of small issues on the interior and window gaskets that are keeping it from standing out. He is nearing 90 and I am trying to clean it up for him before he passes to let him ride in it again. He bought it when he retired and it has sat in his garage for about 10 years. I need a few parts so I hope that this community might be able to point me in the right direction.

Yea, after 7 dead 65e’s in multiple different w bodies i was kinda sick of it. Not to mention the 6t70 had 2 extra gears to play with. If it wasn't for the horrible 2.44 fd in the impala transmission it really would've been pretty wicked. Unfortunately ended up getting rid of the car a while ago due to rot. Current owner still has it but it only gets driven for track events. Id like to build another someday with an 06/07 shell and 3.16/3.39 6t out of an suv. Would be much better acceleration/fun wise and the 6t’s OD is still long enough to be perfectly fine on the highway. why didn't i just slap an ls4 in? because everyone either just slaps an ls4 in or an l67. The 6t/ls4 wasn't figured out yet, the ls4 is an absolute pain to work on in that engine bay, and it also just wasn't my taste. I could've done an ls4, at the time we had 2 of them sitting around in donor cars at the yard. I didn't want to lol.

I have a boot for these cars, I think it's called charcoal. It has a bluish tint to it good condition. Anyone interested?

That’s a pretty sweet find, especially being the second owner with only 70k on it. The interior looks like it’s held up really well too. Funny how that kind of thing matters more than flashy extras sometimes, same with online stuff. On a casino like https://tropical-casino.com/ Tropical Casino, a clean slot layout, a decent bonus screen or a small win animation can make the whole thing feel better without doing too much. Welcome to the forum, curious to see what you end up doing with it and whether you keep it mostly stock or start changing things.

Nice to see another Z34 being kept alive. If you’re new to working on cars, I’d focus on getting a solid maintenance baseline before changing anything: fluids, belts, hoses, grounds, and any old or brittle wiring/connectors. Since you’re already into the brakes, I’d check the rubber hoses and hard lines closely too. And if you don’t know when the timing belt was last done on the 3.4 DOHC, that’s definitely something I’d put on the list. Take plenty of photos before unplugging things and tackle one issue at a time. Makes troubleshooting a lot less painful.

Quad 4 Getrag 282 for W-Body

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