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3.4L DOHC top speed


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  • BIGBULS

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And YOU should remember that we are talking about auto trannied cars

 

And YOU should remember that my 91 GP was an automatic. I was just making a point that my 3.4 cars don't have much trouble hitting the speed limiter in the top gear in each respective car.

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i'm not talking bolt on mods, u ever been in a 3.4 car with a new motor running 10.5:1 compression? how about ported heads and some cam timing? and when u used to go that fast i would take 3rd gear to about 7100 cause it would pull all the way, then i would start out in 4th right about 5700 if i remeber correctly. trust me a modded auto 3.4 can pull 4th no problem. wanna hear something cool. when my motor was first broke in me and 5SPEEDZ34 took it out for a ride. he was like it doesn't feel that fast, then we went in his 5 speed. my auto could wind out gears faster than his 5 speed. lol

 

It's a pity you never dynoed the car..................I would have liked to have seen exactly how much power it really made (and what the powercurve looked like). I would assume it made something on the order of 200whp (probably peaking around 6000rpm or so)..........but that's just a bit of conjecture (and having seen RAT's dyno charts back in the day).

 

BTW..............a 7100rpm 3-4 shift (a bit past 140mph with 3.73's) should put you to between 5000-5200rpm (depending on how much TC slip you get).

 

How far DID the car pull in 4th gear, and how did you measure your speed (GPS?, HUD? other car?)............

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didn't measure my speed, didn't care. i pulled forth till i got to about 6200-6300. i didn't want to go much faster, the car was still stable but if u were to touch the wheel it was scary, even the littlest bit. slick94prix has the car now, minus teh exhaust and ud pulley. we will see what he can do, if he gets it dynoed. personally i think the car still needs more topend. it has more down low then a stock l67 car.

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Yeah, whenever i get the extra cash, im gonna get a UDP. Hopefully by the end of the summer, i can afford headers and full exhaust. I know when im up past 100, i hate to touch the wheel, just too damn jerky. As for getting it dynoed, theres a few locals places that have dynos, i hope to make it down to one of them within the next few weeks.

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How do you go about slowing from 130 without frying the hell out of your brakes? My friends rotors turned yellow from the heat of gradually slowing.

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How do you go about slowing from 130 without frying the hell out of your brakes? My friends rotors turned yellow from the heat of gradually slowing.

I go gradually down. I go from say 120 to 100, 100-80, then 80 back down to say 70-75. Works for me.

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let off the gas and coast if noone is there hitting the brakes every now and then. if u have to stop faster downshift and hit the brakes a lil more aggressively

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How do you go about slowing from 130 without frying the hell out of your brakes? My friends rotors turned yellow from the heat of gradually slowing.

 

Well, some decent brake pads and a 96+ brake upgrade can do wonders.........

 

Personally, I REALLY like Performance Friction's street pad compound (I've never dealt with their "Z rated" pad)...........it has nice bite, and great fade resistance. The only real drawback is the BLACK brake dust.

 

EBC also has their "Green Stuff" pad compound.........it has very limited dust, and about the same performance. But. They cost more than PF pads, AND wear out faster under abuse (they are about the same under "normal" use though).

 

Throw in 96+ front brakes (11.25in vs 10.5in), and 94+ rears (10.9in vs 10.1in) with a good high temp flid (Motul RBF 600 is the best of these), and you should be a LOT better off than stock.

 

 

 

Oh.........and if you want to see hot rotors: Brake Fire Video

 

That's my friend's (BIGBULS) girlfriend's (then stock) 99 Neon R/T (with him driving) against my 3400 swapped 96 Beretta base (which runs low 15's).

 

The funny thing was, even on fire, her Hawk HP pads still had some pretty decent bite (I think the main problem was the age of the pads....they'd only been on the car about a month and probably weren't fully bedded in for this kind of thing). Also, this vid was taken back in December or January, and her brakes are still fine. Same rotors, same pads...........NO warping. It just goes to show, that even with brakes THAT hot, the best thing you can do is to keep driving (when possible).

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Oh............my (well not QUITE mine yet :P ) 1991 Grand Prix 3.4L DOHC 5 speed will see some top speed runs soon. BIGBULS already owns a GPS and a digital camcorder, so we'll do a run with the stock chip, and another with an FFP.

 

That will show EXACTLY how fast a 5 speed 3.4L DOHC (which this conversation isn't about :lol: ) can go.

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grand prix, of course, but I don't have the cash for one now...

unless someone wants to conviently hit my 95 GP and insurance could cover me :D

 

Hey, you and I could crash into each other. As I've been saying recently, "insurance fraud is the way to financial freedom".

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grand prix, of course, but I don't have the cash for one now...

unless someone wants to conviently hit my 95 GP and insurance could cover me :D

 

Hey, you and I could crash into each other. As I've been saying recently, "insurance fraud is the way to financial freedom".

 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: that was good

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I would like to debate the idea that 4th gear will not pull to top speed. I can pull just fine at 80 and running only 2500 RPMs. I would think that when I am running 4500 RPMs I would have much more power to overcome the drag of the car. I haven't had it to insane speeds, but I've had it to 110 and it pulled just fine in 4th with plenty more to go.

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