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LS4 swap begins


carkhz316
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Sorry I haven't been back for awhile. I'm still making progress, slowly but surely. I was waiting on all my engine parts, and still waiting on the clutch kit, though I was informed as of 7-19, it was "shipped". We'll see. Anyway, The engine is mostly assembled. I completely tore down the engine harness to rebuild from scratch. I can't go much further as I'll be integrating it with the existing Z34 chassis/ engine bay harness. I wanted to get as far along as I could before filling my garage with another car.

 

Edited by carkhz316
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On 6/27/2021 at 7:37 PM, Bake82 said:

Hey!  
 

Thought I’d pass along this info

 

 

TJ Hurrell on LS4 Nation Facebook group is in process of installing ls4/4t65e-HD in a 95 Grand Prix.  He has been posting some pics and small details.  
 

 

he has used the gxp subframe with spacers to make the subframe the right height.   
 

He had to bang the strut tower a little to fit the alternator.  
 

GM moved the ls4 to the drivers side 1-2 inches.   
 

I am thinking you will run into some major clearance issues if you try to keep the trans in the stock location.   
 

wonder if it would be easier to use aluminum subframe and have a mount welded on for the trans and then have custom length axles made?    Not ideal but might be the only option ?  
 

Just wanted to pass this along and point out TJ build on the Facebook group!  

 

 

 

Thanks for the heads up. I lurk the LS4 page and have seen his progress on that GP. It looks like a pretty cool rig. I have been hoping to be able to use the stock steel subframe as everything is in place besides the holes for the front motor mount. I haven't seen much success with custom axles either; though I suppose I've not really pursued that route before. I will be fabbing up a rear engine mount out of steel to replace the factory LS4 aluminum engine/ trans mount. I am a little concerned about the clearance front/ belt drive of the motor. I knew it would be tight, but I was hoping that massaging the strut tower would be the extent of the fitment issues. I guess I'll find out how bad it will be.

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On 7/20/2021 at 10:10 AM, carkhz316 said:

Thanks for the heads up. I lurk the LS4 page and have seen his progress on that GP. It looks like a pretty cool rig. I have been hoping to be able to use the stock steel subframe as everything is in place besides the holes for the front motor mount. I haven't seen much success with custom axles either; though I suppose I've not really pursued that route before. I will be fabbing up a rear engine mount out of steel to replace the factory LS4 aluminum engine/ trans mount. I am a little concerned about the clearance front/ belt drive of the motor. I knew it would be tight, but I was hoping that massaging the strut tower would be the extent of the fitment issues. I guess I'll find out how bad it will be.

For sure!   test fit first and then see how big of a hammer you need! 

 

If you need help with custom axles, I have a local shop who built me mine for my 3.8/282 swap (reatta OFA didn't work).  I paid $100cdn for it.  I supplied the 2 ends, they did the center shaft.   It has worked perfect for 3 years, 5-10,000miles.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

The short answer is quite a lot longer then the OE 4t65e that they came with.

the 284 is a very stout gear box. Keep the oil full and make sure the intermediate shaft is properly supported.

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13 hours ago, mechanic58 said:

So…are we going to have a “How long will the 284 last behind the LS4?” pool? $5 a spot?

It'll have no issues.   the 284 has been proven behind a 700whp 3800 turbo car and has been beat on and enough miles.  they're super stout transmissions.  

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  • 3 months later...

A little late, but better than never I suppose. I brought the car home from storage at my brothers so I could continue working on it. But, before I retire the current engine, I wanted to make a couple long overdue video clips to show that it actually runs and drives. After emptying the old gas and adding a splash of fresh 91, I took the back roads from my brothers house back home. I had my son with me to help with the cell phone recording, so excuse the shakey cam (he's only 9), And the dash cam clip is merely an old dash cam stuck to my sunroof glass. 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just bought an '08 GXP LS4 and have been getting familiar with it.  It's a glorious engine, and it happened because I was thinking randomly what it would take to put an LS4 in my '92.

My suggestions:

  1. Don't go crazy with the cam, you'll regret it with a 284.  Cammed engines on manual transmissions are not merely challenging, they are next to impossible to tune for smooth drivability, and you'll feel every little quirk in the tune that'll make you forever try to fix it and hate the swap in the end.  Nobody else will tell you this, but trust me I've learned the hard way on multiple cars.  Stay as close to the factory tune and specification as you possibly can on a manual-trans swap.  The engine already makes over 300HP stock, and you're putting it through the same wheels you use to steer.  And now you're doing it through a trans that's short-geared for a high-revving V6.  It's already more than enough.
  2. Get the output-shaft support bearings that replace the oil seals for the 284.  It's Fitzall/TeckPak 75125LRB.
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On 11/15/2021 at 8:02 PM, crazyd said:

Just bought an '08 GXP LS4 and have been getting familiar with it.  It's a glorious engine, and it happened because I was thinking randomly what it would take to put an LS4 in my '92.

My suggestions:

  1. Don't go crazy with the cam, you'll regret it with a 284.  Cammed engines on manual transmissions are not merely challenging, they are next to impossible to tune for smooth drivability, and you'll feel every little quirk in the tune that'll make you forever try to fix it and hate the swap in the end.  Nobody else will tell you this, but trust me I've learned the hard way on multiple cars.  Stay as close to the factory tune and specification as you possibly can on a manual-trans swap.  The engine already makes over 300HP stock, and you're putting it through the same wheels you use to steer.  And now you're doing it through a trans that's short-geared for a high-revving V6.  It's already more than enough.
  2. Get the output-shaft support bearings that replace the oil seals for the 284.  It's Fitzall/TeckPak 75125LRB.

This is interesting because so far everything has made it seem like cam selection is a free for all if you're not bound to the confines of an auto transmission and it's inherent stall speed. Fortunately, my cam isn't very agressive, as it was implied to me that it was equivelant to a typical "Stage 1-2" cam offered by many vendors. I guess we'll see how much I hate it, lol. 

In an effort to mitigate the short gearing of the transmission, I plan on running a larger overall diameter wheel/ tire combo. I've been told this is a reasonable approach to the lack of traction and short gearing.

I wasn't aware of the those output shaft seal/ bearing combos. I'll definitely be springing for those. Thanks for the heads up.

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