UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

carkhz316

Members
  • Content Count

    1,473
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

carkhz316 last won the day on September 19

carkhz316 had the most liked content!

About carkhz316

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/25/1986

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ya, no way on the 3.4 DOHC without pulling the intake plenum or coming in from the side near the strut tower while standing on your head (probably). I only owned one ('92 Z34), but it definitely took up more real estate in the engine bay.
  2. Thanks for the link to the socket. I don't know if you have the 3100 or 3800, but on either on the W-bodys, I always found that there was adequate room to remove from the top; dare I say easily. Good luck nonetheless.
  3. What I've done for exhaust stuff is to spray it with your flavor of rust penetrant the days/ weeks proceeding and drive it around. The time, combined with thermal cycles, seems to go a long ways towards potentially freeing up crusty balls of rust that use to be threaded components. I hope this helps. Good luck! Also, screw the O2 sensor sockets for removal. They always seem to strip on pretty much all the rusted in ones. If replacing the sensor, I just cut the harness off and use a standard socket. It seems to work much better.
  4. Uggggh, Those corroded ABS wires are crap. I've dealt with that before. Such a pain in the ass. Also, holy cripe to your air filter! I'm surprised the engine ran at all. That's great!
  5. Shurkey is tolerable and self-aware, so I don't mind, haha. The guy to give him chase is over on the SS forums, username "CB750". Thirded for the Transgo kits, though they have some turds here and there. For example, their Stage 2/3 kits for the 4L80 used a multi-layer separator plate, which frankly sucks. It's prone to cross leaks and is a bandaid.
  6. Dang. Too late to the party again. Glad you got it figured out though. I was certain it sounded like a typical Passlock issue, and not something else. The PCM doesn't care about the oil pressure, so that wasn't going to be it.
  7. carkhz316

    Z34 swag

    Whenever I get my basement and/or my garage finished, I'm going to hopefully stocking it with more car memorabilia like this.
  8. I drove it in and out of the garage once this year. And now it's back in storage for the winter. Sad, I know, haha.
  9. Back from the dead, haha. Glad to see this thing still going!
  10. I'm sure there's fellers on here that can be even more specific, but based on the two I've witnessed, the issue is that the oil pressure relief solenoid that purges oil pressure from the lifters sprays the oil at the bottom of one or more cylinders which gets pulled up into the combustion chamber and either burns it or cokes up the rings or cylinder walls. The fix from GM was a updated oil pan gasket with a splash shield of sorts to deflect the oil pressure spray, but from what I've read, it still doesn't stop the issue.
  11. That's good to know. I have a spare 284 mount for a rainy day, but glad that more parts can be interchanged.
  12. I'm not disagreeing with you, but back in the day I put new a Dayco on our G8 when we had it, and it still chirped. I know the problem was the harmonic balancer had a bit of run-out, but I didn't want to replace it yet. However, when I then switched to the Gatorback it pretty much eliminated the chirping.
  13. This is almost exclusively the reason for chirps and squeaks, barring a bearing issue. That said, I've cheated and had good results with the Gatorback (now produced by Continental) since the serration of the grooves seems to allow it to bend a little bit more to mitigate noise.
  14. Yes, for sure get that DOD turned off. I don't care what anyone says, the only way to eliminate the oil consumption is to do away with the DOD function. The oil pan gasket doesn't fix it. The different size wheels thing is kind of odd to me, in that the GP was the only LS4 car to do it like that. Why? The Chevy twins and the Buick ran a symmetrical setup. Also, not sure if it's still a thing, but supposedly there is/ was a special procedure or tool for changing serpentine belts, when in reality all you need to do is tighten an appropriately size hose clamp around the tensioner assembly to R&R the belt.
×
×
  • Create New...