TRW Keyless Entry module

[White93z34]

Basically the 2 big ICs are the biggest areas of concern.

For me over the long run reflowing the joints is a temporary fix, I've had more success in adding some good solder. Recently I've purchased a proper desoldering tool and I'll just clean out the solder and start over with fresh

[GnatGoSplat]

I originally did the 2 ICs, but then had to do it again not too long after (can't remember if months or years).  So I ended up just reflowing every single joint and that kept it working well over a decade.  I added flux to every joint and added a little new solder, but I didn't remove any old solder.  If you plan to desolder first, then I'd recommend finding vintage 60/40 solder (with lead).  If all you can get is RoHS solder, then it'd be a good idea to keep the old solder as it still has lead.  Leadless RoHS solder are famous for solder joints going bad over time.

Checking the caps is a good idea.  I didn't do that at the time, but I've had to change out enough electrolytic caps to know they have a finite life.

[mdpierce8]

It worked! Thanks for all the pointers. All I did was reflow the old solder so I left the rear deck cover off for now, the cover was very sun damaged anyway. But at least I have a working key fob now.

[Psych0matt]

I should get mine working, one more thing I haven’t bothered with in years, but now that I fixed my sunroof relay might as well figure this one out as well. 

[architect]

Reviving this thread! So would the receiver be at the back under upholstery or  passenger door for my 1995 Regal GS? Can't seem to figure out how to get under the upholstery as well unless I just gotta pry and yank, which makes me nervous for this old car... 

[jiggity76]

23 minutes ago, architect said:

Reviving this thread! So would the receiver be at the back under upholstery or  passenger door for my 1995 Regal GS? Can't seem to figure out how to get under the upholstery as well unless I just gotta pry and yank, which makes me nervous for this old car... 

The receivers are mounted up in the back glass shelf area.  The upper rear seatback needs to come out...which means the shelf also needs to come out.  Then, to get the shelf out, you have to pull the rear quarter glass interior plastics that go around the glass.  GM layered these pieces.  Here's my 93 Grand Prix STE sedan.  It won't be identical, but it will be the same process and in the same location.

That black box up against the rear glass...that's the receiver.

 

 

 

Edited Thursday at 01:20 AM by jiggity76

[GnatGoSplat]

1 hour ago, architect said:

Reviving this thread! So would the receiver be at the back under upholstery or  passenger door for my 1995 Regal GS? Can't seem to figure out how to get under the upholstery as well unless I just gotta pry and yank, which makes me nervous for this old car... 

 If it's a coupe, it's where @Black92GS showed a few posts up.  If a sedan, on the back deck as @jiggity76 shows.  Regal coupes had a much smaller rear deck due to the more vertical backglass.  Top is sedan, bottom is coupe.

Edited Thursday at 02:02 AM by GnatGoSplat

[jiggity76]

45 minutes ago, GnatGoSplat said:

 If it's a coupe, it's where @Black92GS showed a few posts up.  If a sedan, on the back deck as @jiggity76 shows.  Regal coupes had a much smaller rear deck due to the more vertical backglass.  Top is sedan, bottom is coupe.

That's interesting.  My bad...I thought they were all in the same location.  My Cutlass coupe is also in the back shelf area.  The rear glass is allowing more space for it I'm sure than a Regal coupe.

[GnatGoSplat]

I didn't know either until @Black92GS's reply earlier in the thread.

It's also elsewhere on the convertibles since there's no rear deck.

 

[architect]

How does the seat first get removed? Sorry not very car inclined here.  Mine is the 4 door sedan. 

Edited Thursday at 12:57 PM by architect

[94 olds vert]

15 minutes ago, architect said:

How does the seat first get removed? Sorry not very car inclined here.  Mine is the 4 door sedan. 

Should be 2 or 3 bolts on the seat bottom facing the rear of the front seats. Remove the bottom seat cushion and then you will see the bolts that hold the back seat cushion on. 

[architect]

Got the lower and upper seats off and see the plastic plugs holding down the upholdstery. Do I yank these out or is there a technique for 'em?  Don't wanna ruin these! They appear to be the "xmas tree" style that goes in once. Not centre pinion to loosen or any form of spring action.

Edited 22 hours ago by architect

[GnatGoSplat]

Unfortunately, they are indeed Xmas tree type.  I used a standard trim panel puller to remove them.  I was able to reuse mine after pulling, but it's possible they lost some strength after pulling.

[architect]

Thanks for the help. I got them off with a puller but couldn't do it without some damage. Hope they stay snug once I get 'em back in. 

I'm at the plastic trim around the glass now before I can lift the felt cover out. Any tricks with the trim? I don't see any fasenters so think I just need to pry off? 

 

 

 

[GnatGoSplat]

Yeah, I hate those one time use clips.

I don't have the factory service manual, only parts catalogs, but there appear to be no fasteners for that part other than one staple (#3) towards the bottom.  Not sure if that staple has to come out.  It looks like the same annoying clip setup my Cutlass Supreme has along the top edge.  If I recall the metal clip parts have sharp barbs and dig into the plastic, so some wear to the plastic happens every time you pull it.  If the plastic tabs don't break off, they usually go back on and fit well enough, but it's not something you want to have to pull often.  Looks like something near the top of the quarter glass and I'd guess that's an xmas tree type clip.

 

[architect]

Thanks that diagram helps. Got my neighbor to help. Putting these photos up for anyone else that finds this thread. 

Two red clips at the top of door, one white xmas tree clip, and a clip on the inside of the car that requires you pull the panel forward to release. 

 

Edited 5 hours ago by architect

[architect]

The board looks pretty clean...can't see any damage at all and starting to doubt its this issue...? 

[GnatGoSplat]

I've never been able to SEE the bad solder joints, and I think the glossy conformal coating would probably hide them if there were some.  I've always just cleaned off the coating and resoldered the joints anyway.  That's always worked.  I think most people who have done it had the same experience.