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Quaraxkad

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About Quaraxkad

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  • Birthday 12/28/1983

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    Port Orange, FL

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  1. IT RUNS!! Someone on another forum provided me with a newer program version for my PCM with VATS disabled in their software. I flashed it, and the car finally stays running!
  2. I've read nothing but conflicting information on that. Some say the car won't even start, some say it will start and shut off after a second or two. That's why this whole time I've been thinking it was a VATS disable issue. I might be getting confused here... The 04 Impala diagrams shows ENGINE OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR SWITCH (ABOVE STARTER). It has a two-pin connector, pin A goes to PCM C2-19 OIL PRESS SW, and pin B is grounded. So that's either open or grounded, no voltage. This seems like the sensor for the gauge cluster warning light, and not an actual data sensor for the PCM. If there is an actual 0-5v oil pressure sensor for the PCM. I don't see it. The sensor I was looking at however is not above the starter like the diagram says, it's above the passenger side CV axle. In my wiring harness, that's got a 2 pin connector, one pin is grounded and the second pin leads to the firewall C100-F2. For the Lumina, this sensor is shown under the Instrument Cluster wiring diagrams, and the PCM diagrams don't show any other oil pressure sensor. Of course, these diagrams might just be wrong, even though I think Mitchell's data is supposed to be good for wiring. I really would rather look it up in a REAL 04 Impala service manual. I'm keeping an eye out for a set on eBay. 04 Impala SS 98 Lumina LTZ There are indeed way more 5v reference outputs on the Impala PCM. The Lumina harness splices those all together into two or three output pins. But as far as I can tell all sensors are getting their 5v, just from different pins. But now that you've mentioned it, what are the chances that Impala PCM is turning *off* one of the 5v outputs my Lumina harness is using...? Seeing that the sensor in the Impala diagram is either open or grounded, I tried both options. No change.
  3. In the Lumina it only goes to the firewall C100, into the cabin for the gauge cluster warning light.
  4. 98 Lumina LTZ In the Lumina, the oil pressure switch goes through the firewall to the gauge cluster, it's only there to show a warning light. I assumed the Impala was the same, though it went through the PCM first. But you're the second person to mention that specific difference in the diagrams. So, I pulled the F2 wire out of the C100 firewall connector, put a new pin in C2-19 and connected the two together. Started it up, it ran for a few seconds and shut off... Switched the VATS setting from 0 to 2 (default is 1), tried it again, same thing. I suppose I can go through another complete cycle of all three VATS settings, and then again with Injector Disable Time set to 0 instead of 4. There are codes, but all of them are EVAP related.
  5. My Cutlass build has been stalled for about a month, due to this PCM issue. To summarize: I have an L67, 4t65e-HD, and PCM from a 2004 Impala SS. The car will start and run for a second or two before the engine stops. This sounds like a VATS issue, although I have tried every possible setting to disable VATS in TunerCATS. I have tweaked VATS in TunerCATS over and over and over, and even bricked a few PCM's when the WinFlash software crashes during a write. I have tried every setting and combination of settings I can think of. No matter what I set for VATS, the result is the same. It cranks, starts up, then shuts off after a couple seconds. To complicate things, I also have a 2000 GTP PCM. With that installed, the car starts and runs just fine! So I am pretty confident my wiring is good. I have fuel, I have air, I have spark. I can't just use the GTP PCM or it won't shift properly due to differences in the transmissions between those two years. Same story with a 1998 Lumina LTZ PCM. It starts and runs, but it's programmed for N/A and also can't operate the transmission properly. I have compared the pinouts for my 1998 Lumina LTZ wiring harness and the 04 Impala PCM. There *are* some differences, but none of them appear to be important. For example, the Impala PCM has multiple pins that act as grounds for various sensors (C1-12, C1-13, etc), while the Lumina grounds all those sensors through one pin (C1-17). The Impala has a 5v reference output on C1-10 dedicated to the MAP sensor, on the Lumina that is shared with other sensors on C2-33. There are also two additional power wires on the Impala PCM. C2-24 needs power at ON and START. C2-23 needs power only at START, during cranking. I have tried hooking up both of these and confirmed that C2-24 is required to turn on the PCM, but C2-23 doesn't appear to do anything. (Before I learned about C2-24, the engine would crank and fire *one* cylinder but never start up.) Anybody have any ideas?
  6. The Bose system is ancient but never materialized. You can watch video demonstrations of it on Youtube though, and it was incredible.
  7. Standard length studs should not require removing the hub. As shown in the pictures above, the bottom of the hub has a cutout for exactly this purpose. It gives enough clearance for stock length studs to be installed and removed. Longer studs will require the hub to be removed.
  8. Let's take a look around and examine that hub...
  9. I have a couple of things to note... Some of you have mentioned that a CAI/FWI will not help because of the increased restriction. Even the most elaborately bent air intake tube will still flow 100 times more freely than once the air reaches the throttle body and everywhere after that into the combustion chamber. While it's true that a longer more "bendy" intake tube will be more restrictive than a shorter one, or a cone popped directly on the throttle body, either of these intakes will still flow SO much faster than what the engine is capable of due to its internal restrictions that this minor restriction makes absolutely no difference whatsoever. Second, a dyno is not a reliable test of various intake systems. A CAI will draw in significantly cooler air when the car is driving down the road than it will with a fan blowing air at it on a dyno. That said, anybody who thinks they felt a difference in power or responsiveness when switching from a stock box to any kind of intake: It's all in your head. If there's a difference, it's negligible, and you wouldn't be able to feel it.
  10. I don't think there's a guide on this site, but there are a couple of them around on other places. Most of them are versions of the second post of this thread: http://forums.motorswap.org/viewtopic.php?t=3172&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc. I don't know where it originally came from or who wrote it. Whether it's a "good" guide or not I have yet to determine. I can say that it's no where near as in-depth as guides I'm familiar with for swaps in my other car. It's very vague in a lot of areas, so we'll see how many snags I run into that aren't mentioned. Plenty of people around here have done it though, so any issues should be easy to get resolved.
  11. Alright, thanks guys. I'm going to order a short line from 98-99 Z34 then.
  12. Here's the RockAuto catalog for 98 Lumina 3.8: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1303760,parttype,7320 It lists two very different lines. Other cars I looked at with L36 had different ones as well. Just picking out two cars at random with L36s, 2004 Grand Prix: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1429703,parttype,7320 None of these are the same as either of the ones in the Lumina. And 2000 LeSabre: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1358018,parttype,7320 More completely different hoses. So it seems that it's surely not as simple as "L36 hose", as there are a ton of different versions. Again though, maybe any of them will fit, but I won't know until I install the engine and I'd rather be sure I got the right one before I drop it in and have to remove it again and buy another new hose until I find one that fits. EDIT: I just double-checked my stash of parts, and I do have the power steering lines both from my car (92 Cutlass) and the L67 donor (00 GTP). I couldn't remember if I removed the lines or cut them when I pulled the engine from the junkyard. For all I know, one of those could fit with maybe a little bending of the hard-line. I'm sure it'll all make sense once the engine is in, but I need to know before that.
  13. I'm slowly getting back to my Cutlass L67 swap, I've got one (million) thing(s) holding me up... All of the guides say to use an L36 high pressure power steering line, and that it should be installed before the engine because it's difficult to do it after. And that's as much detail as any of them go into about it and don't mention it ever again. I was originally going to make my own, or have one made from a place I know where I can get a good price on SS-braided lines, but not knowing the actual shape and routing I will need in the end makes that very difficult to do from the start. Then I decided I was just going to finish the swap cheaply, and maybe in the future I'll do a proper rebuild with custom parts and mods but for now I just want to get it running. So in looking for that hose, I found that nearly every L36-equipped car I've looked at has a slightly different hose shape and routing. So which one do I need? I did find one thread where it was said that they used a Z34 hose (I believe they specified 1998), but looking up that hose on RockAuto returned two different types, one 5 foot long hose and one 33 inch hose using different routings. I'm not sure which one I need, or maybe both of them will fit, or maybe any L36 hose will fit. I've got a new 2.25-turn rack installed and that hose is the next step that I'd like to get sorted out before dropping in the engine (or moving on to the next question). Anybody have more specifics on exactly which hose(s) will fit? Thanks!
  14. WD40 probably isn't going to do much of anything, PB will be far better. If the bolt is already rounded off from a 12-point, a 6-point may still not be able to get a decent grip on it. You may need a bolt extractor like this: Hopefully there's enough clearance in there for one... This is an Irwin, they are pretty cheap from Lowes or Home Depot. There are better brands too.
  15. The best wire harness use is from a 98-99 Monte Carlo or Lumina with a N/A 3800. If you get one of those it should only require swapping a few wires in the large C100 connector on the firewall, it's not worth paying someone to do it for you. Other wire harnesses will work but require a lot more modification. The ideal engine/trans donor car for you will be a 98-04 Regal GS or 98-03 Grand Prix GTP. These are the only two that will have all of the brackets and mounts you need. Tons of other cars have L67s but will not be a direct bolt in without first swapping parts from a w-body 3800. There are a number of threads on the swap on other forums, they are not specific to the Cutlass but all of the same stuff still applies.
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