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About Quaraxkad

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  • Birthday 12/28/1983


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    Port Orange, FL

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  1. Pictured are 0 and 4 gauge. It's probably not the final setup, I just had them in a spare parts box.
  2. In what way exactly was it modified?
  3. Mission complete!! I went to the junkyard today and found three cars with that mount. 1997 and 1999 Lumina, and a 1994 Grand Prix, All of them still had engines, I was hoping to find one that someone already pulled the engine from. Turned out to not be all that difficult to remove anyway, I just jacked up the engine with the scissor jack I found in the trunk (because they wouldn't let me bring in my own scissor jack!) and unbolted it. Comparison of the original mount on bottom and the new one: Notice the two holes for the subframe bolts are differently spaced. Fortunately my subframe had an additional hole there, so it fit with no trouble at all. Dogbones unhooked, engine mounted and off the hoist, everything just "at rest". Perfectly lined up!! Thank you, mfewtrail! Now on to the next mystery, exhaust. New thread coming soon...
  4. Whaat!? There are 4 holes in that bracket!! Wow, that certainly looks like my solution! Now the problem becomes removing that bracket from my car without having to pull the engine... I did try once already and was able to start loosening all but one bolt. That last one I was able to get a wrench on but didn't have any clearance to turn it. I'm thinking I shouldn't have much trouble getting a new one at the junkyard, there's bound to be one that someone's already pulled the engine from. Thank you so much for that picture. I've been stuck here for months now, unsure of what to do!
  5. To answer a few questions posed: As far as I know, neither car have been in accidents. The engine mount for the 98 Lumina is the same as what I have. The 98 Lumina transmission mount is not the same part number but looks the same as the 3800 mount. Judging from photos alone, I'm pretty sure it has the same bottom bolt pattern as the 3800 which wouldn't fit in my subrame without drilling new holes in the bracket. Yes, the Cutlass has the original subframe. The bracket on the transmission is from the 04 Impala. I *had* two other transmissions, both from 97 GTP's. They appeared to be the same bracket but I don't have them to compare anymore. EDIT: I just found one of the 97 GTP transmission brackets, and it is the same.
  6. I may have spoken too soon... A closer look at the Regal mount, the bolts are *not* offset. the top two are directly above the bottom two, so if this mount fit in my subframe it would not rotate the engine in either direction.
  7. I did mean 3T40. it was originally called Turbo-Hydramatic 125 but later renamed to 3T40. 440t4 is the 4T60 which I did not have in the Cutlass originally. Unfortunately I no longer have the engine and transmission that came out *years* ago, it was scrapped for garage space once I thought I had everything off of it that I would need. Now I wish I could go back and examine its mounts and mounting points. I looked up 92 Regal 3800 mounts, the transmission mount is the same as the solid rubber 77mm one pictured above so I already have that. The engine mount is definitely different and may or may not fit into my subframe. This is what the currently installed Impala 3800 and original 92 Cutlass LH0 mount looks like: And how it fits into the subframe: This is what the 92 Regal mount looks like: It looks like the bottom bolts should line up with the unused holes in my subframe. And the top bolts are offset from center, which if aligned properly, might rotate the engine counter-clockwise back to straight! It's definitely worth a shot, I'll see if I can pick one up today! If this doesn't work, what are the chances it's a different subframe and I'll have to swap it out with a junkyard pull? I will also look into the 92 Regal dogbones, but they may not be necessary if this engine mount straightens things up.
  8. The engine is from a 2004 Impala SS. It came with all mounts still attached, but the passenger side mount was no good. So I replaced it with a brand new one from Rock Auto for the same car. The drivers side mount as shown above in the comparison is the original 04 Impala SS vs a brand new 92 Cutlass. If I remember correctly, the dogbone brackets in the first picture are from the very same Impala. They are the kind that wrap around the bottom of the upper radiator support. After installing the Cutlass radiator I realized they would not work because the radiator blocks access to the under side of the upper radiator support, so I got a pair of brackets from a 98 Lumina as seen in the second two pictures.
  9. Starting a new thread for this issue, since I figure a lot of people probably don't read through the long build threads. I have an L67+4T65E-HD swapped in place of an LH0-3T40 in a '92 Cutlass. All bolted up, the engine is rotated a few degrees clockwise (standing in front looking from above). Note the dogbone mounts don't line up with the holes on the upper radiator support. Now with the brackets bolted to the radiator support, you can see how far off the engine mounts are when at rest. If i loosen up the mounts and wiggle things around, it IS close enough to force-fit it in place, but that's not really a solution, and doesn't solve all the problems anyway. For starters, all it does is apply a heavy preload to the dogbone mounts and doesn't fix the position of the engine. So the axles are never straight, and the exhaust downpipe doesn't fit through the exhaust channel in the firewall. This next image is even misleading, because for this pipe to even fit in that channel, the flexible joint at the top is almost fully stressed. I *thought* this might be due to the transmission mount issue I ran into. Short version: The 3800 transmission mount has different bolt spacing that didn't fit in my sub-frame, so I swapped it out with a brand new '92 3T40 mount, which fit both the 3800 transmission bracket and the Cutlass sub-frame. This 3T40 mount however is 10mm taller than the 4T65e mount. So I experimented a little more today. I supported the engine with a hoist, put the dogbones in place, and tried to find a place where the engine could rest comfortably. I cut out a 67mm block of wood to put between the transmission mount and sub-frame bracket, and this is where the engine feels like it can rest and appears to be relatively straight. As you can see, both bolt holes on the transmission bracket are significantly farther back than the holes in the sub-frame bracket. So this appears to be more complicated than a mount that's just 10mm too tall. The LH0 that came out was perfectly straight and never had an issue like this. As far as I know there isn't any frame damage that could have shifted things out of alignment. I need to get this car back on the road, as I might be moving soon and will need a daily driver since my new home won't be within walking distance of my day job! I've tried loosening all the subframe bolts, all of the engine mount bolts, shifting things around, it just will *not* straighten up. I really have no idea how to proceed from here. Anybody have any ideas?
  10. IT RUNS!! Someone on another forum provided me with a newer program version for my PCM with VATS disabled in their software. I flashed it, and the car finally stays running!
  11. I've read nothing but conflicting information on that. Some say the car won't even start, some say it will start and shut off after a second or two. That's why this whole time I've been thinking it was a VATS disable issue. I might be getting confused here... The 04 Impala diagrams shows ENGINE OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR SWITCH (ABOVE STARTER). It has a two-pin connector, pin A goes to PCM C2-19 OIL PRESS SW, and pin B is grounded. So that's either open or grounded, no voltage. This seems like the sensor for the gauge cluster warning light, and not an actual data sensor for the PCM. If there is an actual 0-5v oil pressure sensor for the PCM. I don't see it. The sensor I was looking at however is not above the starter like the diagram says, it's above the passenger side CV axle. In my wiring harness, that's got a 2 pin connector, one pin is grounded and the second pin leads to the firewall C100-F2. For the Lumina, this sensor is shown under the Instrument Cluster wiring diagrams, and the PCM diagrams don't show any other oil pressure sensor. Of course, these diagrams might just be wrong, even though I think Mitchell's data is supposed to be good for wiring. I really would rather look it up in a REAL 04 Impala service manual. I'm keeping an eye out for a set on eBay. 04 Impala SS 98 Lumina LTZ There are indeed way more 5v reference outputs on the Impala PCM. The Lumina harness splices those all together into two or three output pins. But as far as I can tell all sensors are getting their 5v, just from different pins. But now that you've mentioned it, what are the chances that Impala PCM is turning *off* one of the 5v outputs my Lumina harness is using...? Seeing that the sensor in the Impala diagram is either open or grounded, I tried both options. No change.
  12. In the Lumina it only goes to the firewall C100, into the cabin for the gauge cluster warning light.
  13. 98 Lumina LTZ In the Lumina, the oil pressure switch goes through the firewall to the gauge cluster, it's only there to show a warning light. I assumed the Impala was the same, though it went through the PCM first. But you're the second person to mention that specific difference in the diagrams. So, I pulled the F2 wire out of the C100 firewall connector, put a new pin in C2-19 and connected the two together. Started it up, it ran for a few seconds and shut off... Switched the VATS setting from 0 to 2 (default is 1), tried it again, same thing. I suppose I can go through another complete cycle of all three VATS settings, and then again with Injector Disable Time set to 0 instead of 4. There are codes, but all of them are EVAP related.
  14. My Cutlass build has been stalled for about a month, due to this PCM issue. To summarize: I have an L67, 4t65e-HD, and PCM from a 2004 Impala SS. The car will start and run for a second or two before the engine stops. This sounds like a VATS issue, although I have tried every possible setting to disable VATS in TunerCATS. I have tweaked VATS in TunerCATS over and over and over, and even bricked a few PCM's when the WinFlash software crashes during a write. I have tried every setting and combination of settings I can think of. No matter what I set for VATS, the result is the same. It cranks, starts up, then shuts off after a couple seconds. To complicate things, I also have a 2000 GTP PCM. With that installed, the car starts and runs just fine! So I am pretty confident my wiring is good. I have fuel, I have air, I have spark. I can't just use the GTP PCM or it won't shift properly due to differences in the transmissions between those two years. Same story with a 1998 Lumina LTZ PCM. It starts and runs, but it's programmed for N/A and also can't operate the transmission properly. I have compared the pinouts for my 1998 Lumina LTZ wiring harness and the 04 Impala PCM. There *are* some differences, but none of them appear to be important. For example, the Impala PCM has multiple pins that act as grounds for various sensors (C1-12, C1-13, etc), while the Lumina grounds all those sensors through one pin (C1-17). The Impala has a 5v reference output on C1-10 dedicated to the MAP sensor, on the Lumina that is shared with other sensors on C2-33. There are also two additional power wires on the Impala PCM. C2-24 needs power at ON and START. C2-23 needs power only at START, during cranking. I have tried hooking up both of these and confirmed that C2-24 is required to turn on the PCM, but C2-23 doesn't appear to do anything. (Before I learned about C2-24, the engine would crank and fire *one* cylinder but never start up.) Anybody have any ideas?
  15. The Bose system is ancient but never materialized. You can watch video demonstrations of it on Youtube though, and it was incredible.
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