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02 GP Performance Shift


Grandprix1
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Holy crap pull that tune now. You dont want to see more than 3-4 at WOT and even that is too high. Ideal is zero

Edited by jake91
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Holy crap pull that tune now. You dont want to see more than 3-4 at WOT and even that is too high. Ideal is zero

well damn! I'm running 89 octane fuel with it cause that's what they recommend. guess I got to go and talk to them and change this computer over. ill do that this weekend when its going to be 70 degrees. I really hope I didn't break anything...

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That's sc kr levels lol

Why am I not surprised. I sent ZZP an email so I will keep the thread updated on how that goes unless i should make a different thread about this issue 

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Guess I thought you were supercharged lol. Still 7kr is pretty ridiculous on a Gt lol, but you probably arnt hurting anything if anything your probably slower with that much kr than stock. Throw a tank of 93 in it (if your state has it. I bet that drops it down into the 3s or less and thats fine on a na car

Edited by jake91
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Guess I thought you were supercharged lol. Still 7kr is pretty ridiculous on a Gt lol, but you probably arnt hurting anything if anything your probably slower with that much kr than stock. Throw a tank of 93 in it (if your state has it. I bet that drops it down into the 3s or less and thats fine on a na car

That is the plan next time I fill up. Should I leave the tune in until I check it with 93? It's always sounded better with the tune in the higher RPMs. On the stock tune you can hear the engine change tones around 5k RPMs. You don't hear that on the ZZP tune.

 

 

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I'd get zzp to fix it.

I'm hoping that's what they do. It shouldn't be that hard to adjust some things to lower the KR. I understand them not having the car and there be maybe 1 or 2 degrees of it but certainly not almost 7

 

 

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KR on an an L36 is an entirely different ballgame vs. KR on an L67/L32.

 

You're not hurting anything, since I'm willing to bet you'd see ~5 KR on the stock PCM.  I think your ass dyno needs a little calibration, though. When you see KR, the PCM is pulling back that much timing, so it's really negating the money you spent on the PCM in the first place.  I'd be curious to know how much timing ZZP is throwing at the car, but I don't have only have 1 ZZP bin, and it's an L67 car.

 

We also need to know where the KR is.  I can't give you much advice without an actual scan.  Was the 6.5 degrees a blip or was it sustained?  If you go out and romp on it all the way through 1st and 2nd, how much sustained KR are you seeing?  There are lots of reasons for just blips, and you shouldn't see 0 degrees and then all of a sudden 6.5.  That would be more indicative of false knock.

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KR on an an L36 is an entirely different ballgame vs. KR on an L67/L32.

 

You're not hurting anything, since I'm willing to bet you'd see ~5 KR on the stock PCM. I think your ass dyno needs a little calibration, though. When you see KR, the PCM is pulling back that much timing, so it's really negating the money you spent on the PCM in the first place. I'd be curious to know how much timing ZZP is throwing at the car, but I don't have only have 1 ZZP bin, and it's an L67 car.

 

We also need to know where the KR is. I can't give you much advice without an actual scan. Was the 6.5 degrees a blip or was it sustained? If you go out and romp on it all the way through 1st and 2nd, how much sustained KR are you seeing? There are lots of reasons for just blips, and you shouldn't see 0 degrees and then all of a sudden 6.5. That would be more indicative of false knock.

So I'm not damaging anything or even coming close to damaging something? It's sustained in the 6-6.5 degrees. I'm not sure what the timing is im sure I could find out using my scanner. It has a live data record function.
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Also, you aren't throwing a code or have a pending code for P1336 do you?

That I'm not sure about. Not lights have come on but I haven't scanned for codes
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It really is staggering that ZZP can't get something as basic as an L36 tune right.  

 

No, you're not damaging anything, you're just getting a slower car.  How many miles have you driven on this tune?  Fuel trims take some time to learn, and some KR is possible during that time. You can try premium fuel and see if that helps, but it sounds like there's just too much timing for a stock car. 

 

Also, can you see LTFTs on that gauge?

 

You could probably throw a downpipe at it and it might eliminate the KR and pick up a few horses if you really wanted to.  Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it aside from maybe getting my money back for a crummy tune.

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When was the last time the car saw a tuneup?

The gauge will show long term fuel trims. It's been on the tune again when performance shift was installed. Probably a week. It has a down pipe with high flow cat and u bend delete on it from ZZP. Tune up as in plugs and wires? I feel like they are factory but I'd have to look at the service history. They haven't been done since I've had it (15k miles or so) so instead of thinking and feeling like I have a faster car. It's actually slower?

 

 

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There's really no reason for you to have KR. Get your money back.

 

Yes, it's making your car slower.

Ok. So I shouldn't be worried about that KR then. I'll see what ZZP responds back with. $175 store credit would be nice...

 

 

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Guy on Grand Prix forums said that ZZP usually sets the timing to 18 degrees which is to much with out freer flowing mods such as headers. I can't afford headers nor want headers...

 

 

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Test your fuel economy with 89 octane fuel, then with 93 and see what you get. If you figure miles/$$$ it usually ends up being a wash financially, at least it has on all my cars.

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Guy on Grand Prix forums said that ZZP usually sets the timing to 18 degrees which is to much with out freer flowing mods such as headers. I can't afford headers nor want headers...

 

 

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So get a front Powerlog.

 

Or get a refund and have someone else take a stock PCM and just put the Performance Shift tables into it since that really was your reason for getting the PCM in the first place.   

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So apparently the reason for the high knock is wrong gasoline... when I purchased it I could have sworn that I had chosen to have it tuned for 89. They sent me a thing back with the order form showing that I selected 93. So when I run this tank down a little bit more ill throw some 93 in it and see if that fixes anything.

 

 

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