Torque specs, specif. 4T60

[goumba]

Hey guys,

 

I found it long go, can't find it again. I'm looking for the torque specs for the transmission oil pan bolts for a '95 3.1 paired with a 4T60 in my Grand Prix. If there's some comprehensive resource with all of the torque specs for this combo, even better as I will likely need it in the future.

 

The gasket has leaked since I got it a few years back and I'm finally tired of the driveway mess. I figured I'd replace the filter while I'm at it, it is as simple as drain pan, remove old filter, replace with new? Anything I need to look out for?

 

TIA

[pitzel]

Presume you mean the 4T60-E.

 

"Oil Pan to Case" = 151 lb inches. pound *inches*. Divide by 12 for pound-feet, although if you don't have a torque wrench that reads pound inches, then you probably shouldn't attempt the repair.

 

"If filter is tight, pry gently with a screwdriver. Do not score or damage case surface"

 

This is out of the 1992 maintenance manual for the 4T60-E.

 

If you're going to be working on these, buy yourself the proper factory manual.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Chevy-Monte-Carlo-Buick-Regal-Pontiac-Grand-Prix-service-shop-repair-manual-/361292217820?hash=item541eb1bddc&vxp=mtr

Edited May 23, 2015 by pitzel

[pitzel]

BTW as far as transmission oil leaking is concerned, they can leak from the side of the case as well, where the axle shaft for the drivers side comes out. If you un-do the transaxle mount (remove the cover, pop the two 15mm bolts on the bottom and/or the top), and use a jack with some wood to lift the transaxle off the subframe, you can put a socket and an extension to snug those bolts without removing the axle. Mine were pretty loose, but snugged up nice once I got in there and I'm pretty sure you can accomplish it all without doing a dreaded subframe drop. Might have to pull the air cleaner, I'm not sure how it works on the 3100 cars lifting the transaxle to access the mount. Those manuals that I'm imploring you to buy have remarkably detailed explanations on how to do practically every repair possible on the car. Fill in the gaps, and inevitable substitution of 'official' Kent-Moore tools by asking on forums like these -- lots of help here at times, that's for sure!

Edited May 23, 2015 by pitzel

[goumba]

Thank you pitzel for the info, and the link. Yes, it's a 4T60E (at least I had it right in my sig I had read the third party manuals weren't that great, so hadn't picked one up. I didn't even know how to find a factory manual (TBH not e-bay savvy). I have the factory service manual for my '90 TA and it's invaluable.

 

I'm sure it's not leaking from the side of the case. Soon after I got the car I discovered the leak, and it turned out that the bolts were not properly torqued. Properly torquing them wasn't possible as I just ended up tearing the gasket (in the middle of a transverse/long edge). As a friend put it, a leak meant I was adding fresh fluid every few weeks, couldn't be a bad thing. Until I decided that was a boneheaded effing thing to be doing. Not money wise, but it meant it was possible that if fluid got out, water can get in. Time to fix it properly.

 

I considered taking it to a trans shop, but meh, I enjoy doing my own work. The TA has never been touched by a mechanic in my 15 years of owning her, and I'm proud of that.

[goumba]

So, got the service manual did the job. Cork gasket (which I already knew as I had torn it when torqing), and I'm guessing the leak was a problem with the last owner, because I found clear silicon/RTV/whatever between the gasket and surfaces, and not to mention sloppily applied. Thanks again for your guidance.