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'98 Lumina LTZ knock noise


LumiLTZ
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Wife today informs me her '98 LTZ started making a knocking noise while driving it this morning. Took a look at it today after work, and made a quick video. I didn't rev it up while taking the video but the sound doesn't really change (does speed up with engine RPM though). Took the belt off , fired it up, noise still there. My list of possibilities are cracked flex plate, rod knock, or spun bearing. Any thoughts?

 

[video=youtube_share;__BRCzV7OU0]

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make yourself a mechanic's stethoscope and start probing around. you'll find the source soon enough.

 

when i heard Fehl's(was BGA's) 3800 making its akward noise, it seemed to do it only at idle and disappeared at speeds above that. i'm not sure if that changed at any point in time, but it did end up being the flexplate IIRC.

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I do not think it is a cracked flexplate. For reference this is what my GTP sounded with a cracked flexplate:

 

[video=youtube;4dS7XAsL3Y4]

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Messed with it a bit more after supper. Probed around with a 'low-tech' stethoscope (broom handle). Pretty sure it's in the engine now. Probed the transmission in a few places and didn't hear it. Found a couple places to listen around the engine itself and the noise is loudest toward the rear bank. Seems the worst around cylinder 4 and 6. I gave it a little bit of revving and the noise started sounding more like a clattering. Guess I might be in the market for an engine...:(

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Took another quick listen today, almost sounds like maybe a dead lifter perhaps (really hear it up top but not quite as much when I stuck my head as far under the car as I could with it on the ground). Either that or there's enough slop that a piston's hitting the head or something. Gonna bring it over to my neighbor's garage sometime this week and fire it up where I can get under it in his underground pit and do some listening from beneath. At any rate, I'm preparing to go ahead and obtain another L36/26 to swap in. Car has 208k+ on it, but I've put a good bit of work into it the past year. Before this, the only real problem with the car is the A/C is inop (bad compressor seals). Given that, I've decided it's going to be wiser to go forward with the swap rather than look for another car with its own new set of problems.

Edited by LumiLTZ
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  • 7 months later...

Finally getting ready to get this thing back on the road.... Been either backed up with more pressing projects, not feeling like working in the cold-ass weather, and general lack of ambition. Got an engine hoist last weekend and have gotten the garage cleaned up so I can tear into it soon. First I have some work to do on the other 2 cars though.

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Yep I think it should be pretty straightforward. Just need to find a reasonably priced boneyard engine. I'm debating, do I pull the tranny and freshen it up too while I have everything apart. Still has OD but I do wonder about how much 4th gear hub splines are left, etc. Also I'm debating whether to get an engine stand to put the replacement engine on to work/freshen it up before dropping in... Might save me reaching/bending and killing my back.

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L67 would be an easy swap, bolt right in, add 2 wires to the harness for the boost solenoid, change the MAP sensor plug and run the L67 PCM. Since you haven't found an engine yet. That actually does sound like clatter from a collapsed lifter like you suggested

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Brought up the idea of an L67 but this being the wife's car, that got zero spouse approval factor. :lol: That and the car has some looming rust issues that are going to kill it in a couple or 3 years. My pewter LTZ is in much better shape body-wise, so it would make for a much better L67 candidate.

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Mebbe l67 swap ur car then use ur old l36 to fix her car :)

Brought up the idea of an L67 but this being the wife's car, that got zero spouse approval factor. :lol: That and the car has some looming rust issues that are going to kill it in a couple or 3 years. My pewter LTZ is in much better shape body-wise, so it would make for a much better L67 candidate.
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Yep I think it should be pretty straightforward. Just need to find a reasonably priced boneyard engine. I'm debating, do I pull the tranny and freshen it up too while I have everything apart. Still has OD but I do wonder about how much 4th gear hub splines are left, etc. Also I'm debating whether to get an engine stand to put the replacement engine on to work/freshen it up before dropping in... Might save me reaching/bending and killing my back.

 

If I was you, I'd rent the engine stand and I'd freshen everything up just to be on the safe side. Nothing would suck more than doing engine work only to have the LIM gaskets fail on you 3 months later. The transmission should be your call... if you think it's deserves to be freshened up, go ahead but as you said, the rust on the Lumina might get to it first. Truthfully, you should at least try to sand down the rust or patch up the rust spots.

 

As far as boneyards, how far are you willing to travel for one? I know Crazy Rays in Baltimore usually has cheap engines.

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If I was you, I'd rent the engine stand and I'd freshen everything up just to be on the safe side. Nothing would suck more than doing engine work only to have the LIM gaskets fail on you 3 months later. The transmission should be your call... if you think it's deserves to be freshened up, go ahead but as you said, the rust on the Lumina might get to it first. Truthfully, you should at least try to sand down the rust or patch up the rust spots.

 

As far as boneyards, how far are you willing to travel for one? I know Crazy Rays in Baltimore usually has cheap engines.

 

Yea I was figuring on going a ways out to get one.... The yards close by here want crack-pipe prices for even high-miles L36s. I'll have to look into crazy rays though finding a good l36 in a u pull might be a gamble... Would suck to pull one and it be just a boat anchor.

 

As for the rust, the worst is up in the rear wheel wells/shock towers. About 2 years ago I cleaned everything up in there and POR-15'd it inside and out. It's holding it at bay for now but who knows how long.

Edited by LumiLTZ
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Yea I was figuring on going a ways out to get one.... The yards close by here want crack-pipe prices for even high-miles L36s. I'll have to look into crazy rays though finding a good l36 in a u pull might be a gamble... Would suck to pull one and it be just a boat anchor.

 

As for the rust, the worst is up in the rear wheel wells/shock towers. About 2 years ago I cleaned everything up in there and POR-15'd it inside and out. It's holding it at bay for now but who knows how long.

 

What are the closest yards close to you, if I can ask?

 

The best way to pull an engine at a Pick/Pull is to look for one that was a total loss, but without front end damage. They're a bit hard to find, but they are existent. Those cars have the best chance of being a run and drive car. Usually, the car will have info like that on the windshield, and most yards have a week guarantee at the least when it comes to engines. Those insurance yard cars also have the most probability to be a low mileage car. Also, don't forget that the 3800 S2 was found in almost everything GM made, so you can get away with using an engine from a Buick LeSabre or a Pontiac Bonneville. The donor car doesn't matter as long as it's the L36 and not the L67. Also a quick note for you would be that the Camaro did have the 3800, it did have K in the VIN but that swap isn't worthwhile because it has RWD specific parts. You can however get away with swapping in an S3 3800 from the LaCrosse and all will be good. I say this because when you call the junkyard, they will usually ask you what car do you need the 3800 from, and I know some yards have nothing but the pure meaning of parts monkey, where all they know is match part to car, not part interchangeability... meaning if you tell them the 3800 is for a Lumina, they will give you a high mileage LTZ one, but if you say its for a Lacrosse, the mileage could be substantially lower.

 

If you don't want to go through the hassle of pulling the engine yourself, you can always give Brandywine a call. They are a Pick/Pull yard but they also offer the option to pull the part for you and selling it to you at a higher price. I believe they charge $800 for an engine in this form (they pull it for you) but you have to call.

 

Other than that, there's always LKQ but I don't like them.

 

EDIT: Crazy Ray's has a website... it's crazyrays.com . For some reason, the prices are not listed but they do list their locations. There's 5 of them IIRC. You can give em a call for pricing and warranties.

Edited by Nas Escobar
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I still say l67 swap ur car and use left over engine to fix hers :)

 

That's a good idea, or realistically since you're only expecting a few more years out of it and it's pretty high miles try to pick up a wreck that you can repair with elements of this high mileage car and then scrap it.

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I still say l67 swap ur car and use left over engine to fix hers :)

 

He would have to get the HD trans too though. I wonder if he would be up for that challenge!

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Yea that's my concern too doing an L67 swap is that I know being my luck I'd fry the trans. I also can't really take 2 cars down to play musical engines either.

 

As for pick a part yards I usually have gone to the one down in Fredericksburg. Though I do agree its kinda tough finding a low mileage rear end wreck.... Seems like whenever I'd seen one it's already been harvested of its engine. I definitely am aware I can get one from an H body...iirc I'd have to swap oil pans and such but that's ok with me.

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I'd be worried about any transmission with over 200K on it. You really should consider trying to pick up a wreck either as a drivetrain donor or a replacement.

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Yea that's my concern too doing an L67 swap is that I know being my luck I'd fry the trans. I also can't really take 2 cars down to play musical engines either.

 

As for pick a part yards I usually have gone to the one down in Fredericksburg. Though I do agree its kinda tough finding a low mileage rear end wreck.... Seems like whenever I'd seen one it's already been harvested of its engine. I definitely am aware I can get one from an H body...iirc I'd have to swap oil pans and such but that's ok with me.

 

Are you talking about Pick A Part right off of Jefferson Davis Highway? That's pretty far for a yard with a poor selection of GM vehicles. then again I'm in DC proper, it's so much easier to go to Baltimore than Fredericksburg.

 

Doesn't have to be a rear end. Can be side swipe/t bone too, but that's another discussion.

 

I didn't know the other 3800s had different oil pans, I knew the alternator bracket was different, but I thought only the oil pan difference was with the Camaro.

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