LumiLTZ Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Cool. Thanks man. I'll bet you see a big difference in handeling with all of that. And its a 2 door coupe. Also mine has coil packs. It doesn't have a distributor. Does indeed have coil packs, but GM in their infinite wisdom, instead of retooling the 60deg V6 block when it evolved to coilpacks, decided to simply amputate the distributor from the oil pump shaft, and keep the existing oil pump shaft design, simply capping it with the O-ring system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 which would have been perfectly fine if it were using an o-ring that handled being exposed to heated and frozen oil for long periods of time.... but that didn't happen. so now it costs ~$1 and a couple hours of time to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LumiLTZ Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 which would have been perfectly fine if it were using an o-ring that handled being exposed to heated and frozen oil for long periods of time.... but that didn't happen. so now it costs ~$1 and a couple hours of time to fix it. This. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 GM is bad for that sort of thing... Very half assed in alot of the things they created. Like cooling for example... I have never.. ever.. owned a 1990+ GM vehicle that didn't overheat sitting still for long periods of time.. And its like with the Quad 4 and Twin cam motor. Why the hell would you have the timing chain tensioner run off of oil pressure from the oil pump?? So that means when your oil pressure begins to drop from wear your chain slips and presto! Bent valves. Oh and might I add.. Why in the world would they put the water pump were they did on those motors? Its like a 5 hour job. And dont even get me started on the 350 diesel, 4.9V8, and the other numerous terrible motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 Finally got around to changing my thermostat and my oil. Got the coolant system bled out good too. Feels good to have the heat working good again. It wasn't even making it past 120 degrees before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 (edited) Well if you are willing to swap heads I can say myself that going to large port 3400 intakes is like night and day. Stock I was lucky to get a 8.5-9.0 0-60. With the mods I have in my sig i ran a 7.5 0-60 with a passanger, tool box full of hand tools, and about a half tank of gas. (Confirmed via HPtuners scan) I have stock 3100 heads, so with a decent tune I see no reason why it would not be a touch faster. 100% worth it IMO if you love the car and modding makes you happy. Quick edit: The car was not dyno tuned at the time of that run. I was running lean so knock about 1/10 off that 0-60 due to adding more fuel. Edited February 17, 2013 by MonteCarloDude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 I know it's a crappy cell phone picture, but my 3100 has almost 170k on it, and all it's ever had was Pennzoil conventional oil changed every 3k. When we took it apart, it looked like new inside. Changing the oil when it needs it is the best thing you can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 I know it's a crappy cell phone picture, but my 3100 has almost 170k on it, and all it's ever had was Pennzoil conventional oil changed every 3k. When we took it apart, it looked like new inside. Changing the oil when it needs it is the best thing you can do. My friend I completely agree. And I am an avid fan of pennzoil. As well as Castrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Well if you are willing to swap heads I can say myself that going to large port 3400 intakes is like night and day. Stock I was lucky to get a 8.5-9.0 0-60. With the mods I have in my sig i ran a 7.5 0-60 with a passanger, tool box full of hand tools, and about a half tank of gas. (Confirmed via HPtuners scan) I have stock 3100 heads, so with a decent tune I see no reason why it would not be a touch faster. 100% worth it IMO if you love the car and modding makes you happy. Quick edit: The car was not dyno tuned at the time of that run. I was running lean so knock about 1/10 off that 0-60 due to adding more fuel. How did you tune yours? I have looked around, but its seems like there is just no easy or cheap way to do it. And on a budget like mine it makes everything pretty hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 How did you tune yours? I have looked around, but its seems like there is just no easy or cheap way to do it. And on a budget like mine it makes everything pretty hard. I hear ya, I had to do mine bit by bit due to lack of funds. As far as the tune goes. My Monte is OBD II so the PCM can be retuned via a program like HP Tuners, if you have a 94 then you are running OBD 1.5. I don't know a ton about it, we have a member on here, RobertISaar, he knows quite a bit about tuning and I'm sure would have more info then myself. As far as I know, OBD 1.5 can be tuned, just a bit more of a pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Sorry to hijack the thread, but I read something in the earlier pages about swithcing to synthetic to a different weight. It was something about switching from 5w30conv to 0w30syn. If I were to switch my 94 Cutlass vert LQ1 to synthetic, then would I have to change the weight to avoid adding a quart every now and then? I have another car that I have to do that to, and I'm thinking it either burns oil or the oil is too thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) Sorry to hijack the thread, but I read something in the earlier pages about switching to synthetic to a different weight. It was something about switching from 5w30conv to 0w30syn. If I were to switch my 94 Cutlass vert LQ1 to synthetic, then would I have to change the weight to avoid adding a quart every now and then? I have another car that I have to do that to, and I'm thinking it either burns oil or the oil is too thin. Buddy if it were me I wouldn't run 0w30. Thats the stuff they are using in the 2012+ toyota's and imports. Our engines dont have nearly as tight of tolerances as those motors. Which is also the same reason our engines are notorious for piston slap. If I were you I would run a good 10w40 or 10w30 synthetic oil, unless your engine is still good and tight and doesn't have over 150,000 miles on it. Then in that case I would go with 5w30. Because 0w30 means that when the oil is cold its a 0 weight oil. Another words its as thin as water before it heats up. Then once the engine reaches operating temperature its becomes a 30 weight oil. Edited February 18, 2013 by 72cuttysupreme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 I didn't even know there was a OBD 1.5 I thought it was ether OBDI or OBDII. Maybe i'll make a thread on how to tune OBD1.5 computers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 I hear ya, I had to do mine bit by bit due to lack of funds. As far as the tune goes. My Monte is OBD II so the PCM can be retuned via a program like HP Tuners, if you have a 94 then you are running OBD 1.5. I don't know a ton about it, we have a member on here, RobertISaar, he knows quite a bit about tuning and I'm sure would have more info then myself. As far as I know, OBD 1.5 can be tuned, just a bit more of a pain. tuning the 93-95 3100 PCM is just like the previous PCMs.... right up until it gets to the point of putting the new calibration into the vehicle, in which case, it's almost identical to how the OBD2 PCMs are done. datalog with tunerpro, make changes with tunerpro, upload new calibration with the madtuner software, repeat as desired. Sorry to hijack the thread, but I read something in the earlier pages about swithcing to synthetic to a different weight. It was something about switching from 5w30conv to 0w30syn. If I were to switch my 94 Cutlass vert LQ1 to synthetic, then would I have to change the weight to avoid adding a quart every now and then? I have another car that I have to do that to, and I'm thinking it either burns oil or the oil is too thin. see below. a car that burns off oil, especially through the PCV system, is due to the oil being too volatile. thicker oils are ALMOST always less volatile than a thinner oil, but it really depends on the composition of the oil. the NOACK specification is a very good test for this. Buddy if it were me I wouldn't run 0w30. Thats the stuff they are using in the 2012+ toyota's and imports. Our engines dont have nearly as tight of tolerances as those motors. Which is also the same reason our engines are notorious for piston slap. If I were you I would run a good 10w40 or 10w30 synthetic oil, unless your engine is still good and tight and doesn't have over 150,000 miles on it. Then in that case I would go with 5w30. Because 0w30 means that when the oil is cold its a 0 weight oil. Another words its as thin as water before it heats up. Then once the engine reaches operating temperature its becomes a 30 weight oil. incredible misconception from years of nobody knowing any better. 0W-30 is a better oil than 5W-30, and a hell of a lot better than 10W-30. since they're all 30 weights, when they're all at ~100*C, they all have the same viscosity, but when they're colder than that, there is where the big difference lies. all oil gets thicker as it gets colder, no exceptions, ever. the advantages of 0 compared to 5 or 10 are that when it's colder, the 0 does a better job of flowing, with the 5 being in the middle and the 10 being the worst of the bunch. a lot of the times, if you have an oil pressure guage, you'll see this as the 0W showing lower oil pressure for a given oil temperature. this is due to pressure being a measure of resistance to flow. and oil flow is MUCH more important than pressure. the only time you should value pressure over flow is if there isn't enough pressure to keep the lifters pumped up... even then, the only time that should ever happen is when the oil is sufficiently hot, so if it happens then, you'll need a xW-40 oil or some "high mileage" xW-30 oils that are close to being classified as a 40 weight. I didn't even know there was a OBD 1.5 I thought it was ether OBDI or OBDII. Maybe i'll make a thread on how to tune OBD1.5 computers? wouldn't bother, nobody cares, or at least no one has shown interest in the many times i've mentioned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) to bad that StarFlare chick wouldnt listen to that distributor O-ring explanation, would rather post 2 Broke Girls clips from youtube as if anyone here would get it here:lol: But i believe that Olds were either OBD 1 or OBD 2, only the monte luminas had the 1.5, from what i can remember seeing in the threads. IIRC(which i usually do not) OBD 1.5 had 2 O2 sensors. Unless the w`s with the 3100 back in `94 are OBD1.5 aahh confusion reigns yet again. Edited February 18, 2013 by rich_e777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Starflare was female? themoreyouknow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) from what he/she insinuated(is that a word?) on the other w-body site where he/she was complaining about us here. Never heard of a guy refer to themselve as "one broke bitch" but who knows, could be a homosexual, they do that sometimes. Didnt mean to come off as a big dick, or did I? in this thread http://www.gmwbody.com/forum/the-lounge/thinking-of-leaving-the-other-w-body-forum/ Edited February 18, 2013 by rich_e777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) The part i circled is the Distributor plug location for any kind of future reference. Freakin` clean engine by the way. Seems to be more space in between the cross over than on my 3100, also the exhaust manifold looks bigger. can i assume this is the `99 lumina? Edited February 18, 2013 by rich_e777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 from what he/she insinuated(is that a word?) on the other w-body site where he/she was complaining about us here. Never heard of a guy refer to themselve as "one broke bitch" but who knows, could be a homosexual, they do that sometimes.Didnt mean to come off as a big dick, or did I? in this thread http://www.gmwbody.com/forum/the-lounge/thinking-of-leaving-the-other-w-body-forum/ the W-body community does seem to have a rather large non-straight fanbase... not that there's anything wrong with that, but historically, i assume everyone is male until mentioned otherwise, and 99% of the time, i'm right. [ATTACH=CONFIG]11914[/ATTACH] The part i circled is the Distributor plug location for any kind of future reference. Freakin` clean engine by the way. Seems to be more space in between the cross over than on my 3100, also the exhaust manifold looks bigger. can i assume this is the `99 lumina? should be the exact same parts? i do remember seeing a reference to 97+ W-bodies getting a slightly different setup, but i thought it was limited to the 2nd gens, not the 1.5s? also, pennzoil yellow bottle (PYB) is well received on the BITOG forum as an excellent "cleaning" oil, so that's about what i would expect to see. slight "varnish", but no real buildup anywhere. bottom-end probably looks fantastic as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Not to derail, going off that picture I'm assuming that you have to remove the LIM to replace the distributor O-ring on a 3100/3400? No way to get around it with just the UIM off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Freakin` clean engine by the way. Seems to be more space in between the cross over than on my 3100, also the exhaust manifold looks bigger. can i assume this is the `99 lumina? Thanks! (Although I have no idea what I did to keep it that clean. But yeah, '99 Lumina. 167k miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 Were did you get your information on oil from? I would like to research this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cuttysupreme Posted February 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 [ATTACH=CONFIG]11914[/ATTACH] The part i circled is the Distributor plug location for any kind of future reference. Freakin` clean engine by the way. Seems to be more space in between the cross over than on my 3100, also the exhaust manifold looks bigger. can i assume this is the `99 lumina? My friend that is a beautiful engine! Very clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 My friend that is a beautiful engine! Very clean! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 Were did you get your information on oil from? I would like to research this. many places... but primarily from a document titled "the motor oil bible" and the "bob is the oil guy" forums, along with some of their tech articles posted over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.