Crazy K Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 rotors for our cars are cheap enough that they are not worth turning. A warped rotor is not worth turning as it is very prone to warping again, especially if made thinner. My personal preference is to get newer looking rotors from the junkyard, scrub them clean with a wire brush on a grinder followed by emery cloth in a circular pattern to de-glaze the pad surface and put in service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Dear god, Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 rotors for our cars are cheap enough that they are not worth turning. A warped rotor is not worth turning as it is very prone to warping again, especially if made thinner. My personal preference is to get newer looking rotors from the junkyard, scrub them clean with a wire brush on a grinder followed by emery cloth in a circular pattern to de-glaze the pad surface and put in service. Wouldn't it cost nearly the same (gas, mileage) to go to a junkyard to pull and buy rusted brake rotors than it would be to just buy new ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 :lol::lol: I only grab them as an extra item if I happen upon them. most of my rear brake upgrade parts came from the junkyard, ya know... anyhow almost everytime I go to the yards I leave with a full trunk.... nothing wrong with the parts if they are in good shape. Also, they aren't really rusted, being rusted and crusty makes them junk.... I only grab ones that have no more than a light surface coating of rust cause the car is dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEN1Z34 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I did'nt see any mention of an issue prior to the brake pad install.. How did you, or what did you use to compress the calipar pistons? Did you let the calipar drop and hang from the flexible brake line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Any of the cars in the junk yard here are sitting on the rotors anyways so you couldn't get them. And personally if I'm going to pay for used ones, I might as well spend like $5 more and get new ones... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I did'nt see any mention of an issue prior to the brake pad install.. How did you, or what did you use to compress the calipar pistons? Did you let the calipar drop and hang from the flexible brake line? For the front calipers, the pistons just get pushed back in. You can use a c-clamp. I've even used a chan-nel-lock. For the rear calipers, they have to be twisted as they get pushed back in. There's a special tool for it, but I've always used a set of beefy needle nose pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 For the rear calipers, they have to be twisted as they get pushed back in. There's a special tool for it, but I've always used a set of beefy needle nose pliers. Depends. On the first-gen calipers, removing the nut, washer, and park brake lever on the rear of the caliper will allow the pistons to push STRAIGHT in. The screw spins instead of the piston. VERY easy, VERY quick. I would never in a million years screw-in a first-gen piston. I've never had the opportunity to try that trick on the newer-generation caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Depends. On the first-gen calipers, removing the nut, washer, and park brake lever on the rear of the caliper will allow the pistons to push STRAIGHT in. The screw spins instead of the piston. VERY easy, VERY quick. I would never in a million years screw-in a first-gen piston. I've never had the opportunity to try that trick on the newer-generation caliper. Strange. I've been doing it every brake pad change for 184k miles since I bought the car. Calipers are still original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Strange. I've been doing it every brake pad change for 184k miles since I bought the car. Calipers are still original. Sure, you CAN screw the pistons in...it's just more effort than un-doing one nut per side and squeezing them straight in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Sure, you CAN screw the pistons in...it's just more effort than un-doing one nut per side and squeezing them straight in. Ah, well you have that right. I think I'll try your method next time if its easier. I've just tried to avoid messing with that bracket. My biggest fear is bolts that rust and seize and break. One less bolt to remove is one less bolt that can break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 I had a funny guy at my sister-in-law's wedding reception that told me you should do brakes in the winter because they will last longer then. /threadjack I'm looking into trying these for my next rotors: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=ATE&model=PremiumOne+Slotted+Rotor&group=PremiumOne+Slotted+Rotor&autoMake=Pontiac&autoModel=Grand+Prix+Sedan&autoYear=1996&autoModClar= My friend has them on his Shadow and he loves them. He's running them with some Hawk pads and he says they bite like no other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 I had a funny guy at my sister-in-law's wedding reception that told me you should do brakes in the winter because they will last longer then. /threadjack I'm looking into trying these for my next rotors: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=ATE&model=PremiumOne+Slotted+Rotor&group=PremiumOne+Slotted+Rotor&autoMake=Pontiac&autoModel=Grand+Prix+Sedan&autoYear=1996&autoModClar= My friend has them on his Shadow and he loves them. He's running them with some Hawk pads and he says they bite like no other. Been there, done that. Useless. After 120k miles with my last set of drilled rotors, I went back to blanks. Didn't notice a single difference except they were quieter. I had slotted and drilled rotors on the Bonneville, still didn't notice a difference. Currently using Napa's ultra premium line, powder coated with a different vane pattern that supposedly promotes better cooling. A much beefier rotor than most I've seen elsewhere. The quality of the metal used in the rotor is more important than the fancy slots or holes with regard to longevity, and the quality and performance of the brake pad used is 10x more important than slots or drilled holes in rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Drilling 'n' slotting (by itself) doesn't do squat except look fancy. If they've drilled and/or slotted a QUALITY rotor, the quality rotor might be worth paying extra for. A drilled/slotted cheap-junk Chinese rotor is no better than a plain cheap-junk Chinese rotor. I said it... Been there, done that. Useless. After 120k miles with my last set of drilled rotors, I went back to blanks. Didn't notice a single difference except they were quieter. I had slotted and drilled rotors on the Bonneville, still didn't notice a difference. Currently using Napa's ultra premium line, powder coated with a different vane pattern that supposedly promotes better cooling. A much beefier rotor than most I've seen elsewhere. The quality of the metal used in the rotor is more important than the fancy slots or holes with regard to longevity, and the quality and performance of the brake pad used is 10x more important than slots or drilled holes in rotors. You said it...better. Just be aware that NAPA's "Ultra Premium" line is still Chineseium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 I said it... You said it...better. Just be aware that NAPA's "Ultra Premium" line is still Chineseium. There are extremely few manufacturers of rotors these days that don't come out of China. So long as the metal used is good and the manufacturing is the same, it should be the same rotor. I've seen a visible difference between cheap rotors for our cars and the Ultra Premium line. I'd say they're more durable at the least. To my knowledge, all major rotor brands are manufactured overseas to stay competitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcfast2 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Been there, done that. Useless. After 120k miles with my last set of drilled rotors, I went back to blanks. Didn't notice a single difference except they were quieter. I had slotted and drilled rotors on the Bonneville, still didn't notice a difference. Currently using Napa's ultra premium line, powder coated with a different vane pattern that supposedly promotes better cooling. A much beefier rotor than most I've seen elsewhere. The quality of the metal used in the rotor is more important than the fancy slots or holes with regard to longevity, and the quality and performance of the brake pad used is 10x more important than slots or drilled holes in rotors. Which is why after numerous rotors over the years I ended up getting some coated roters from Centric paired with a nice set of Bendix pads and haven't looked back. I gave up on slotted rotors on these cars - not really worth the money in my opinion (on a W-Body anyways). http://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-120-62054-Premium-Coating/dp/B000C01TBW/ref=au_pf_ss_14?ie=UTF8&Model=Lumina|465&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Chevrolet|47&Year=1998|1998&carId=005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEN1Z34 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 For the front calipers, the pistons just get pushed back in. You can use a c-clamp. I've even used a chan-nel-lock. For the rear calipers, they have to be twisted as they get pushed back in. There's a special tool for it, but I've always used a set of beefy needle nose pliers. That's cool but I was'nt asking.. Many people just smash them in as you've described and in turn ruin the ABS module in the prosess.. Leading to spongy peddle or a pulsating feel to the brakes... Bleeders should always be opened when compressing the calipar.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 That's cool but I was'nt asking.. Many people just smash them in as you've described and in turn ruin the ABS module in the prosess.. Leading to spongy peddle or a pulsating feel to the brakes... Bleeders should always be opened when compressing the calipar.. Should be, but that makes a mess of things and its a pain in the ass. I've done it very slowly each time I've had to and was able to get 238k miles out of my original front calipers and my rears are still original now at just over 245k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 (edited) Bleeders should always be opened when compressing the calipar.. Good point. If the vehicle has rubber brake hoses, I use a clamping tool to positively block fluid flow back to the ABS and master cylinder. If the vehicle has Teflon/steel braid brake hoses, clamping them will ruin 'em; so I either have a helper--or a stick--to hold the brake pedal down an inch or so; then the compensating ports in the master are blocked and no fluid can return to the master cylinder. Either way, the most contaminated brake fluid is typically found IN the calipers/wheel cylinders, and it's bad news to force it back through the rest of the brake system when it can be removed easily at the wheel cylinder bleeder screw. Pretty much ANYTIME I bleed brakes...I bleed them until the fluid flows clear (well, clear-ish blue/purple, the color of the new brake fluid I'm using)and clean. Essentially a brake fluid flush. Just to be clear...there's folks selling "reverse bleeding tools" that are intended to push fluid from the wheel cylinders back to the master cylinder; and the advantage is that the air bubbles are pretty happy to travel "uphill". But reverse bleeding has it's own problems they WON'T talk about, and the number two problem is that the system has to be empty--or--flushed in the normal direction with clean fluid to remove all the contaminated fluid that you DON'T want to go back through the ABS and master cylinder. If you've flushed the fluid in the normal direction...there's no reason to reverse-bleed. You're already bled the brakes! The number three problem is...why buy an expensive tool when you can just use the caliper piston(s) and a c-clamp to do the same job? The number one problem with reverse bleeding is that the final step HAS to be to bleed in the normal direction, because the injection point for the reverse bleeding is higher than the caliper outlet; and therefore traps air in the caliper--exactly what you're trying to avoid. Edited November 3, 2011 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEN1Z34 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Should be, but that makes a mess of things and its a pain in the ass. I've done it very slowly each time I've had to and was able to get 238k miles out of my original front calipers and my rears are still original now at just over 245k. I guess that was a bit abrasive sounding... My bad no offense intended.. Good point. If the vehicle has rubber brake hoses, I use a clamping tool to positively block fluid flow back to the ABS and master cylinder. If the vehicle has Teflon/steel braid brake hoses, clamping them will ruin 'em; so I either have a helper--or a stick--to hold the brake pedal down an inch or so; then the compensating ports in the master are blocked and no fluid can return to the master cylinder. Either way, the most contaminated brake fluid is typically found IN the calipers/wheel cylinders, and it's bad news to force it back through the rest of the brake system when it can be removed easily at the wheel cylinder bleeder screw. Pretty much ANYTIME I bleed brakes...I bleed them until the fluid flows clear (well, clear-ish blue/purple, the color of the new brake fluid I'm using)and clean. Essentially a brake fluid flush. Just to be clear...there's folks selling "reverse bleeding tools" that are intended to push fluid from the wheel cylinders back to the master cylinder; and the advantage is that the air bubbles are pretty happy to travel "uphill". But reverse bleeding has it's own problems they WON'T talk about, and the number two problem is that the system has to be empty--or--flushed in the normal direction with clean fluid to remove all the contaminated fluid that you DON'T want to go back through the ABS and master cylinder. If you've flushed the fluid in the normal direction...there's no reason to reverse-bleed. You're already bled the brakes! The number three problem is...why buy an expensive tool when you can just use the caliper piston(s) and a c-clamp to do the same job? The number one problem with reverse bleeding is that the final step HAS to be to bleed in the normal direction, because the injection point for the reverse bleeding is higher than the caliper outlet; and therefore traps air in the caliper--exactly what you're trying to avoid. Good read.. I've used the Mighty Vac on my 01 Camaro when I've done brake fluid change/flush as part of a couple year service reutine.. Worked very well.. I'm restoring my entire 92 Z34 from the ground up so I'll likely use it to bleed the new system.. Time consuming? Sure can be... One thing folks may not realize, is brake fluid expires.. Over time, condensation, dirt/debris, can/will build up possibly causing braking issues later as well.. It can sometimes mean the difference between stopping quickly/normally/safely, or possibly having to use both feet on the brake peddle and still not stopping well or worse, not @ all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel87 Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Okay so this noise is bothering the hell out of me now. Keep in mind this didn't happen until I changed the brake pads. I am going to try and tape one of my video cameras to the fender well and record the sound to see if anyone can diagnose it. I have had people tell me it might be the indicator bent and rubbing... I really don't know but its pissing me off now. One of those not a big deal sound, but a big deal because it is annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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