unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Yes i do have the HUD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Thanks, i already printed that link out to take with me into the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Nice find on the International at the junkyard. I would take everything I could off of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Thanks, i already printed that link out to take with me into the garage. lol, that is exactly what I did. I have a more detailed breakdown of what needs to be done from another member, Crazy K. Maybe that would be helpful to you. I know it was to me. I'll send you a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Yes... i looked on ebay for a light switch. (On mine the clear coat seems to be peeling of) And they wanted $60 for it. Thats not going to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 I have already given instructions on page 2. I would salvage a set of plugs from a proper donor for the project. 89-91 CSs with ECC are known to have the plugs hidden behind the ecc. 92 should not, but if you find them, grab them. I would pull the cluster and radio, and then you can attach the wires to the cluster connector following my instructions and run them to the proper location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Yes, Crazy K. Already printed in front of my desk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Ok. I am stuck. The cables to power DIS (blue plug) are understood and taken care of. The 3 wires which go to the dash are a problem now. I cant get the speedometer cluster out. The metal lip where the HUD is mounted on stops me from removing the cluster. So i tried to access the cables 3 cables (orange Serial data, dark green Speedometer, and Pink purple Fuel) from under the dashboard. I just cant figure out which ones they are here. The big ones (from the ignition) are the wrong ones, i guess. BTW....the cables are a mess here...I installed a remote starter years ago. Can somebody tell me on the pic were I have to wire them in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 The wires you want go to the cluster. I have a HUD from a 92 International and that bar is not there on mine. It's a little different design. Weird. The serial data one is on the ALDL. It's right above your right knee. The speed is a dark green wire coming out of the connector for the cluster, D15. The pink one for fuel info is also on the cluster connector and is D13. I connect mine right by the connector. I had a hard time locating them on the underside of the dash and ended up just connecting them by the cluster. I see you have all the bolts out of your cluster. I am surprised you can't wiggle it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 you must remove the cluster. No one can give you the info you are requesting from the pic alone, and no, the column wiring is NOT appropriate to tap into. remember one VERY important thing: high quality work with ease of maintenance is essential in this task or you'll have a headache down the road. Keep the wires attached to the primary from the cluster to keep things organized. step back, relax, and try this: remove the HUD (if you have trouble reinstalling don;t panic, ask for help! I have had to use spring to hold the adjustment mirror in place during installation) and get the cluster out. if that is not enough: Dash removal: there are 6 bolts that hold the dash down, one at the far left of the instrument opening, one at the far right of the instument opening, two hidden under the insert in the glove box, and two hidden under the defrost grid, which are in alignment with a notches about 1/4 of the way from each end of the grid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Yes, this metal lid on top is causing me a lot of trouble.And I DONT want to mess around in the cable mess down below. What is the ALDL???? How can I recognize it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 (edited) I'll go get you a picture brb. EDIT: With pictures. ^ Bottom row all the way to the right is where you need to connect the orange wire. I changed mine to yellow. ^ That is the general area that ALDL is in. Just follow the yellow wire up and there it is. Edited April 24, 2011 by 94 olds vert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 AH...i think i see what you mean. Thats the place the shop connects the scanner to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Yes sir. That's the one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Ok...checked it out on my car. Thats clear now. So two more cables to go. And the cluster HAS to come out. I will see what i can do. Will be back later. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Good luck getting your cluster out. After its out it should go pretty quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Well....i got the cluster out. Dont see how i ever get it in again, I had to force it around the metal lid. Well, thats a problem for later. BTW, Crazy K I got the HUD off. The top part, that is. Here is the pic of the cable from the cluster. Only reason i show this, i see TWO dark green cables. So you might now of the location of the plug which is the right dark green for VSS speedometer? And the fuel sender cable is the PINK or the PURPLE??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 http://i.imgur.com/gXbOV.png There are two dark green wires. One for speed other for temp/gauage light. http://i.imgur.com/9HR8f.png Looks like the fuel sender wire is purple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Ok....i will be back in a few hours.Then I will go right at it again. Thanks, guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Ahh, yeah, im pretty sure it is the HUD control switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Quick update. DIS WORKS!!! Not all finished up yet since I didnt trust my work. But after a testdrive it shows range, avg speed,rpms, mpgs and water temps. Odd....I did NOT connect any wires for metric....but it shows all metric number correctly. ONE WEIRED THING.....it says: CHANGE OIL NOW! And I cant reset it.Any ideas??? And also....I want to thank EVERYBODY who helped me throught this. 94 olds vert and crazy K especially. BTW....Removing HUD didnt help and made me nuts to get the mirror back in place.(springloaded) Also I HAD to break top corners from cluster off because there was NO WAY i could get it behind the metal lip. As soon as i have it finished up i will upload a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 The oil gauge on the DIS is very accurate. It will only be accurate when you reset it after an oil change. For now reset it so it doesnt keep beebing and annoying you. Hit the oil button then hold the reset button until the oil %resets. The DIS has it's own E/M switch built in. I'm glad you were able to install your DIS. I like mine. Can't wait to see a picture of it all in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclehotte Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Thanks 94 olds vert. Yes, i love it. Its hanging in mid air since I didnt have the time to close it all up. But i am sure I will be very happy with it. How does it KNOW about the oil? I thought that would be a mileage based thing. Like typing in 0 till 3000 miles or so. It looks like my cutlass gets close to 17 mpg. As much as I calculated myself when I fueled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 It calculates oil life based on engine RPM and coolant temp. There is a hidden screen on the DIS you can open up by pressing DEST RESET 8192. 17 MPG is what they were rated at when new in the city. DEST RESET 8191 Just type that into your DIS and you'll get a new screen with a bunch of numbers. Watch this video I made. It shows you what each number is and what the screen is. Cutlass DIS with DEST RESET 8192 Here is a breakdown of what the numbers/letters mean when you enter in "8192" This is from W-body.com E = English Mode H0 = Engine Code (B6 = 3.1L, H0 = 2.8L... weird because LB6 is 2.8L and LH0 is 3.1L, but whatever). L = Park lamps Off 00 = Dimming Input (percent) 00 = Fuel level (percent) 4 = 4004 pulses per mile L = VSS signal input Low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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