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  1. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  2. Since putting the engine back in my '92 GTP my DIC is not getting any fuel data. Instant econ is 0 and it's constantly telling me to check fuel. It's done this before but usually it comes back after a day or two, but not this time. Suggestions? Thanks, DD
  3. Wanted: HUD and/or DIC for '93 Pontiac GTP (or any year that works). Must be complete with wiring and brackets and in nice condition.
  4. L36 heads for sale, $20/pair. If someone wants them I can run them to the Columbus meet, too heavy to bring if nobody says they want them. 130,000 miles off running engine. L67 blower, TMU, off an engine I stripped. Again too heavy unless someone claims it. $25. 2 brand new remote fobs for gen II, bought for the Bonneville and they're the wrong ones $8/ea. Left hand DIC, lightweight, it's coming regardless. $8. 3 Gauge dashtop pod $15, wanted to live where my HUD is going so I used alternate mounts. L36 fuel rail, lim, tb, make offer, not coming without some interest. Have a used uim to go as well but I wouldn't run a used one so I'm assuming nobody wants it. l26 Fuel rail, I don't know why I have an L26 fuel rail but it's pretty. L36 Valve Covers I'll probably have more odds and ends.
  5. My headlights were dimming with my sub (500W RMS) and the battery cables were hacked when I bought it because I think a battery had exploded previously. I changed my cables to 4 ga and added a wire from the alternator to the fuse panel. It charges well (usually around 15.1V), but it was still dimming. I changed the wires out to 1/0 gauge and added one from the alternator to the battery. The chassis ground, I ran a wire directly from the top post (I use the side posts for the other cables except the amp cable). The lights don't dim as much and it charges up to 15.3V (15.5V is the upper limit for this car from what I read), but I am now getting the Battery Save Active display on the DIC. From what I read, it's supposed to do that if the voltage is low, but that's certainly not the case. It does jump around a lot on the DIC, but reads steady 14.7V at the battery. Anyone know why this would be happening? Nothing seems to suffer.
  6. Antmann1992

    DIC question

    Ok so I put the left pod dic in my gp and everything works but the temp reading. So my question is did my car not come with that sensor since its not a gtp?
  7. Hi all, The short story is I pulled the motor on my '92 GTP for a clutch job and I noticed my DIC is showing "CK. FUEL" with no speed/range/econ data available. I ran DIC diagnostics on it, and the 1st two digits agreed with my fuel level, but the 7th digit is showing an X instead of S, meaning an ECM serial data failure. So I tried connecting my Snap-On MT-2500 scanner to the ALDL line. It gets power, but can't connect to the ECM in scanning mode. I pulled it off and tested shorting the A&B ALDL pins, and the dash flashed the 1-2 code series to say everything's OK. The manual says that I should check my wiring on the orange 461 wire for short or open, but I haven't messed with anything in there lately and as far as I can tell it looks OK under the dash, and also from the firewall harness connector back to the ECM. I doubt it would be a problem in the DIC itself, but haven't ruled that out. Anyone else ever had this happen before? Is there another point where I can do continuity tests on that wire to figure out what's going on?
  8. Hi. My brakes are since I got the Regal pretty sluggish. I don´t no if this is normal for the anti lock system but its annoying. Issue: When I am braking you can hear the anti lock pump (slow driving on my yard) and the the car isn´t braking as fast as it should. Not like other cars, it needs approximately 0,5 sec till you feel that the brakes grap and the car slows down. --------------------------------------------------------- Should I first bleed the brake system ? New discs with new brake discs are ordered. Hope anybody can help me ? greetings HEMI
  9. I recently sold a 96 GP DIC to a member here and everything lights up and scrolls through the menus except the screen doesnt light up. I'm hoping I just need to resolder the connections, so I'l like to know what pins or circuits i need to plug into to make the screen light up, Thanks.
  10. So ive been into cutlass convertibles since 1995 ive had 2 92s a 93 and 2 94s and ive been working on a 91 for the last year. Ive added hud, dic, redone the back set fronts are being done now replaced the back window.repainted the windshield moldings and cleaned It uped pretty is a rust free car from ca. Never repainted just has some minor dents in it. Still needs a new top, center caps and a motor it runs but has a knock. Im torn because I love these cars but I found something else that I want. So should I finish this and keep it or let it go now and let some one else finish it.? What would you do,?
  11. It's my '90 TGP, and I'm doing some "exploratory surgery" on the center piece, looking for ideas such as relocating the extra power seat controller, adding cupholders in one way or another, replacing DIC with carputer, etc. And I can't figure out what's holding the assembly down. I found two screws that held down the top plastic piece covered by the brown folding armrest, but it only loosened the section and didn't free it. I tried the four screws that attach the aesthetic plastic to the underside of the armrest (expecting them to be attaching the entire armrest to the hinge assembly), and that didnt make much progress either, other than allowing me to twist the plastic bit a lot. I'm at work now so I can't get any pictures or take a look in the next several hours.
  12. gambler87

    Few questions

    So I'm new to the forum and I have a few questions. #1 do only gtps come with the dic and HUD? I have a 96 Gtp that didn't come with either but I work at a junkyard and have access to many yards just want to know what cars I can look at. #2 what is the difference between a 4t60e and 4t65e? Thank u Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk
  13. Brain fart here, what mileage did you have to type into the DIC to get the hidden screen with the raw fuel data, etc, to come up? It was like 87something-something?
  14. So the gen 2 gp dic serial data wire wouldnt link with my monte carlo so im thinking gen 1 w dic. My question is, does it matter that my car is obd2? Recomendations on dic please. Thanks
  15. So i finally got my dic yesterday and found the wire codes today. What is the serial data wire used for? Thanks
  16. Did the hud on my 97 monte the other day and ever since i hav gotten a buttload of requests to do a thread so here it goes (gonna do it in multiple posts so bear wit me lol) First thing your windshield will work fine with the hud mine is clear as day if you dont wanna run a switch you can just run the dimmer wire to the hud power wire(what i did) Tools- wire cutters/strippers Tools to remove cluster Box cutter Short hacksaw Tape zipties Patience
  17. 89 international


    I took the DIC out of the 89 CS international, and put it in my 89 CS SL. (the wires were tucked in the dash) Everything seems to be working on it. Tach, temp, oil, fuel, etc. I keep hearing things like "you'll need to run wires here, there to make it work" . I also keep hearing the same thing about the UB3 dash. Could it be possible that the dash will plug right in and function properly? Also, what about the gear selector? UB3 is out of a floor shift. Want to install it in a column shift.
  18. Started out this past weekend with the GP starting, and dying as soon as I would put it in gear, then displaying "low fuel" in the DIC, now its a no crank, no start, with continued "low fuel" in DIC. It is NOT low on fuel, there is about 1/4 to 1/2 tank left, despite the gauge and DIC showing that its out. I have tried the "10 minuet" passlock relearn process thinking that maybe it forgot itself when I pulled the battery, but it has not helped, and its not showing any service theft system or security LED telltale to make me think that is the problem. I had a similar no crank, no start a while back on my Lumina, but that ended up just being loose wires on its passkey (despite also not having a security telltale ) This time I am not so lucky, I have unplugged and replugged the BCM to no avail. I also checked all fuses and relays, and all connections to the fuse box. What do you folks think, am I hosed? Should I tow to GM dealer to check out, and probably rake me over the coals for a new BCM and programming? Or does anyone have any ideas I could try myself first? Thanks in advance!
  19. I want to sell my TGP, but I had switched out the LCD DIC for a VFD one. They are both identical in function, but the VFD one is a little more modern in appearance because its text portion is dot-matrix instead of segmented. However, LCD DIC is more colorful. I've been debating whether I should switch the LCD one back in. I was thinking if I were going to buy a car, especially if it's an older, limited-run model, I might personally prefer an unmolested one that's all-original. So if you were wanting to buy a TGP, would you prefer the VFD DIC or one that has the factory original LCD DIC? The rest of the car is 100% unmodded and original (except the rearview mirror). LCD DIC VFD DIC
  20. Hello, I was sent here from our Tahoe board as they said that the guys on here are the experts on these DIC units. I want to get a DIC unit that will work on my 95 Chevy Tahoe. I know that I have that obd1 computer in the Tahoe, but I was told the 94-95 had a different baud rate (8192) computer. I don't want to get the wrong one, but I would love to find out more of what it's going to take to make it work. I know the fuel will be off because the Tahoe has a 30 gallon tank... Once I know which one I need, then I can hopefully do the hardest part of this task... finding one... Shawn
  21. Hey there everyone, I'm getting ready to install the DIS from a'90 CS in my '92 CS vert. I would like to test it to make sure it works. How would I do that? I've searched and couldn't find a procedure on how to do it.
  22. Hey there guys, I have figured out that there are some things wierd about my car, like, for example, I have discovered that my '94 CS has a memory wire running into an analog cluster. I discovered this by accident when I kind of connected the power wires for my DIC for the first attempt and got it to be stuck on from the dash wiring. Needless to say, it was just a small wiring change, however, it seems like my '94 either had the first inclinings of a future change or a bring back from the past. Either way, it'll make changing to a digital cluster easier. ;-) My car has other odd quirks around it as well that I'm slowly discovering that are actually from the factory. Anybody else have oddities about theirs?
  23. It's a 1995 Grand Prix. It was prewired for the DIC, that was an easy job. But I can't find any wires anywhere for the HUD. Why would it come prewired for the DIC but not the HUD? Unless I am missing something somewhere. I have absolutely no clue how to splice wires to make it work. I don't know anything about that sort of stuff and how that even works. I can't read and understand wiring diagrams for the life of me either. I tried search and the only thing that DID come up was for Cutlass Supremes. I thought I remember seeing pictures on this through about a Grand Prix, but I have searched over and over and find nothing.
  24. Look pretty clean for a 95? Fully loaded minus DIC and polished wheels. The only thing that concerns me is the oil seen in the pics. Seepage could be normal for its age just don't want it to leak like crazy. Supposedly it was stored most winters of its life. If everything goes well I'm picking it up this weekend.
  25. I think that I'm getting closer to determining my problem. Symptoms: 1.) Flickering DIC/Radio while driving at night - not noticable during the day. 2.) Continual resets of DIC/Clock/Radio Last weekend I pulled the keys from AJAM and went to lock the doors, they didn't lock, when I went to start the car it started a little lame. This went away briefly, but now happens lots. I noticed today because I had to park outdoors. I pulled the key and went to open the door, no lights. AJAM has zero power when the keys are out of the car, it's like the keys are out and the battery is also unplugged. I'd say battery/alt issue, but the turning signals click fast and look strong, the remainder of the dash does NOT flicker. Any thoughts?? I'm thinking of obtaining another wiring harness for my shifter that's what I've been messing around with most recently.
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