19Cutlass94 Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Its been a LONG time since Ive messed with any car audio. But basically this is my set-up. Im running a Pioneer head unit. The parts that will be running off the amp are a component set, with final impedance of 4ohms. Also one single sub with the same final impedance of 4ohms. Basically what I need is either a 2 channel or a 4 channel ( bridged.. right? ) with 4ohm's @ 150w x 2 of power. This set up is not suppose to break records so please dont suggest any 8 million dollar amp. Ive looked at some infinity's and some JL's, but like i said, its been a long time since ive looked into anything car audio related. So any help would be great. Also, i would like to keep it under the $300 mark. TIA! --Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Alpine 4/3/2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Not a big Alpine fan, way overpriced for what you get. If you're on a budget: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22700_Hifonics-HFi55.4.html If you want a little more power: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18800_PowerBass-ASA-400.4x.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 I used to have one back in the day I was thinking it was a cheapie, compared to my Boston 150x4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 matter o fact: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19572_Boston-Acoustics-GT-4100.html that's barely over $300. damn, stuff is coming down in price a LOT. unless mine is better quality previous generation of this amp. I don't even want to tell you how much mine cost me in 2007. it powered my 3 ways and 2 way components way good. compare the frequency response of all amps listed and notice how much better this boston is on the specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow96SE Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Craigslist is a good place to check too. A lot of oldschool amps put some of the pricier new ones to shame, and can be had pretty cheap sometimes. I have an old PPI PC2600 from the late 90s that is a beast, got it for $75 and puts out 1200w Max (600w RMS) bridged @4ohm with 0.02% THD .. way underrated, clean amp. And these aren't bloated numbers like some newer amps have. Even the older MTX thunder series is pretty nice, have a 4200x and a 225x I bought for under $100 that will be running the system in my Prix. Classic Punch amps are great little beasts as well. And I figure if they've lasted this long (15-20years) and still work perfectly, they'll last another decade easily if not stressed too badly. Ultimately, you want to find an amp that comes pretty close to the combined RMS rating on your speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guntotenmadman Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Do you just want to power the sub? The pioneer head unit if less than 10 years old will give you plenty of power for rear deck and door speakers. Leaving you with just the need for a mono or 2 channel sub amp. What Pioneer head unit do you have? I have the 4200UB in my gutlass with a 300 watt 2 channel powering my sub and it's very loud. Components in front and rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 I got the 3200 Pioneer. I was going to use the amp to power the sub(s)? and component set. But now Im not sure if I just want the amp to power the component set and get a diff amp for the subs. I guess it depends on how I need/want to wire everything up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Components sound better when they get a good bit of power IMO. The 3200, is it a 2 or 4 channel? If it's a 4 you could run the comps off the front and your subs off the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Components sound better when they get a good bit of power IMO. The 3200, is it a 2 or 4 channel? If it's a 4 you could run the comps off the front and your subs off the rear. Sorry the 3200 is the Pioneer headunit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 I would suggest getting a monoblock amp for the sub(s). You wont get much power out of a 4 Channel even when bridged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I would suggest getting a monoblock amp for the sub(s). You wont get much power out of a 4 Channel even when bridged. Agreed. I would VERY highly recommend going over to diyma.com and checking out their classifieds section. These are straight up guys and you often get very high end equipment at stupid good prices. Also, take a look at the Boston Acoustics outlet store. They have some really sick deals on their GT and GTA lineup of refurbished amps, and they are excellent amps. This amp should fit your bill perfectly: http://www.bostonacoustics.com/GT-24-Refurbished-P710.aspx You can find the specs for that amp here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3698_Boston-Acoustics-GT-24.html When I get the Bonneville sold, I'm going to be picking up 2-3 of those for the new Regal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I was just looking at Boston Acoustics amps. But After thinking about everything, Ive decided to do this. Ive got a 4 channel amp which will be bridged for the component set. ( recently picked up at! ) and Ill be getting a seperate amp for the 1 12" sub Ill be running. I was looking at this amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UyI2GmzZb5E/p_065GTA802/Boston-Acoustics-GTA-802.html?tp=35757 Which would be a great match to this sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PvTATtdXMMy/p_1081260W/Infinity-1260w.html?tp=111&nvpair=FFSize%7c%5brank9%5d12%22&nvpair=AG_Box_Type%7cFFSealed&nvpair=FFCustomer_Rating%7c%5brank1%5d5+stars%5bimg%5d&tab=features_and_specs Power is right on par, and its got all the adjustments I need. And one 12" should be more than enough for me, for the vehicle its going in. Any opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I would rather biamp the components (the mids off one pair of channels, the tweeters off the other) , or even run full active if your HU and amp will support it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Well the amp would run through a x-over before going to the component set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 But I don't see how you're going to bridge the amp and keep your stereo signal (because bridging just combines left and right channels) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 thats why ive decided to go with two amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 I think we're both confusing each other Now that I had some coffee and can think, you don't really need another amp. Run your components off the front 2 channel s of your amp, and bridge the back 2 to run your sub (with low tones like subs produce directionality really doesn't matter, hence the common use of monoblock amps.) That saves you the cost of a second amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Yes but if he does that hes going to be VERY limited on what sub(s) he can get. And if hes bridging the amp he can really only run one sub rather then two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Thats why I decided to bridge the one amp for the comp set, and get another for the sub. I dont want to under power anything. This is by no means suppose to be a huge system, but rather something that would sound good for the vehicle its going in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Are Rockford Fosgate subs still junk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Are Rockford Fosgate subs still junk? If you're asking if there are much better subs for the money available, then the answer is yes. Haven't heard anything good come out of RF in a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 yeah thats what I figured. Only asked cuz I could buy one get one free lol But as far as subs, I think Ill be going with the Kappa series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 I would very strongly recommend you look at the dayton 10" HO and HF subs on partsexpress.com. They rival Image Dynamics IDQ's for sound quality and are very hard to beat for the price. Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 I would very strongly recommend you look at the dayton 10" HO and HF subs on partsexpress.com. They rival Image Dynamics IDQ's for sound quality and are very hard to beat for the price. Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk Here, I'll make it easier. HF for high fidelity. This one has a lighter cone for faster responses http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-460 HO for high output. This one has a thicker and more rigid cone for more output http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-462 Yeah, they don't have a fancy label or logo on the cone, but that doesn't matter if you care more about the sound than the looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.