jeremy Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 anyone have the proper key programming procedures for a 04-08 Grand Prix. I followed the two different sets of instructions that I found online and neither have worked. the first one was insert working key, turn to on, then turn off...insert new key, turn to on....key should have been programmed the second method said to try to start car with key, then let sit for up 15mins so the security message would go away repeats two more times...I tried this route and the security error never went away. any one ever tried either or both methods with success? is it possible I have a bad key? I just had it cut and the keyless works fine but I can't get the key to program Shitty pics, but here is what I have, but without the key working it is nothing more than an expensive paperweight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twenty Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Darn, if you'd asked a couple of weeks ago I could get an answer from some GM techs. Perhaps call your local dealership and see if they have some tips? Sorry I can't be of more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 That thing is huge!!!!! Those are the only two ways I've heard, check GPONA? I've never had to program one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 That thing is huge!!!!! Those are the only two ways I've heard, check GPONA? I've never had to program one the pics make it look bigger then it really is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 try this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 try this one... that's the one I tried....and I get the "starting is disable becasue of security" message on my Info Center.....I am starting to believe that the key is garbage.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Does it even have a chip in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 It's supposed to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 my guess is it is bad. That key is pretty cool, Our 98 Vw had a key Alot like that. press the button and it Flips out all cool, Like a switch blade LOL. But i remember the dealer charging us like 200 For that key. lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 http://programyourremote.com/classified/DisplayAd.asp?id=1349 that site has always been accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 We code up bypass modules for remote starts all the time with the method you are trying. Just turn the key on for a second, the stick the other key in and turn it on. You have to do it pretty quick and it may take a few trys. Ive never done it with a key like that though. Only the regular PK3+ keys. Cant see why it would be differant though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 it's pk3 system, no chip. If the new key is cut slightly different then the vats value stored in the bcm wil be different than what the new key is sending. However the new key should program but it needs to be lose to the original value. A scan tool would be helpful in seeing if the new key is close to the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Yes thats true. GM Passlock keys have no chip in them. They read a resistance by the way the key is cut. If its slightly off it probably wont code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 TMYK!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Is that the right key? I have never seen a GM key like that, let one a PK3 key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Is that the right key? I have never seen a GM key like that, let one a PK3 key. it appears to be the right key, it actually fits and turns properly, just the security issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 it appears to be the right key, it actually fits and turns properly, just the security issue For example. 04 Saturn Ion I had in a month ago with a froze ignition lock cylinder. Got itt apart and replaced it with a new lock cylinder (that has the VATS sensor in it) and a new key cut to code. Put it all in, new key wont start the car, but the old key would. Old key was a little more worn in 2 spots. Scantool reading the VATS voltage, old key 2.1v, new key 1.7. BCM has stored for around 2.1v, new key was too far out. So I had to reprogram the entire system around the new key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 (edited) For example. 04 Saturn Ion I had in a month ago with a froze ignition lock cylinder. Got itt apart and replaced it with a new lock cylinder (that has the VATS sensor in it) and a new key cut to code. Put it all in, new key wont start the car, but the old key would. Old key was a little more worn in 2 spots. Scantool reading the VATS voltage, old key 2.1v, new key 1.7. BCM has stored for around 2.1v, new key was too far out. So I had to reprogram the entire system around the new key. That's a Passlock PITA system. This is Passkey 3 which uses a transponder in the head of the key. Jeremy, is "PK3" engraved on the blade of the key near the head? All Passkey 3 keys should like this: Edited August 28, 2010 by jman093 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 All Passkey 3 keys should like this: It is a pk3. I am not sure why you keep thinking it is not one. And fwiw not all pk3 keys look like the one in your pic, hell my factory key doesn't even look like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatTheFehl Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 Jeremy, I guess your key looks more like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 (edited) It is a pk3. I am not sure why you keep thinking it is not one. And fwiw not all pk3 keys look like the one in your pic, hell my factory key doesn't even look like that. Chill dude, I'm trying to help you. I realize that's not your key. I was showing the "PK3" that your key has to have because turning a programmed key to on position followed by an unprogrammed key like you did is the proper way to program a key on your car. If it doesn't work, but you can start the car with your other key, then your new key is either not passkey 3 or its dud key with a bad pk3 transponder. Edited August 29, 2010 by jman093 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 Jeremy, I guess your key looks more like this: yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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