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Penglii's 1989 TGP


Penglii
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the ecm is grounded to the block because all the power comes from one place.... the alternator. the alternator is grounded to the block which is grounded to the battery tray (body). all things that run with 12V power get their ground signal from the alternator (with exception of the battery which has its own cord) through the 8 gauge or whatever the stock ground strap is. I always upgrade that wire so I could use the body to ground the LC1 without any issues BUT the instructions say specifically to use the SAME point but different spots for each wire. so how I interpreted it was use the block (same spot as the ecm) but different locations (gold distro block). verified this by research on innovate forums.

 

do not attempt to even drive around on the stock engine ground wire for even a temporary amount of time. ALWAYS... upgrade to a better ground strap while owning a TGP in my opinion. at least 4 gauge wire.

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Yeah... it is in my best interest to do that before I start doing any more datalogging. With the car remaining parked for at least a couple weeks longer I really have no excuse. For that matter I should replace my battery terminals for piece of mind.

 

How long is the ground strap do you reckon?

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this one I forgot to shorten a little so I ended up needing to redo one side.

 

shorter is always better. but you can make it a inch or two longer than the stock wire. like a foot long or so.

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Look at the before and after pics of it. looks like there was some arcing going on there from the discoloration of the metal after I wire wheeled off the rust. lol.

 

 

 

DSCN0024.jpg

 

DSCN0030.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Well... I got the LC-1 installed and calibrated and the Burn2 arrived in the mail and I scored an old PC laptop from my dad's house and loaded it up with Tunerpro and am all ready to get to the bottom of this whole tuning business... and then winter shows up in full force and puts the entire project on hold until Wisconsin thaws out a bit. FFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU to that I say!

 

Not like I'm pissed about not getting to drive the TGP in the winter... she may be buried in snow until further notice but she's in no danger of other cars hitting her and they don't salt the alley my driveway is on, and my doorhandles cannot break if I don't use them, and ice chunks cannot destroy the valance if the car never moves... so all things considered I guess things are on the up and up.

 

It sure would have been nice piece of mind to be able to park her for the season with a good running tune though... but at least I know what I'm doing the first available tolerably warm day!!! I have got TGP withdrawl and I've got it BAD!

 

And of course I gotta end this update with the obligatory depressing TGP covered in snow picture...

post-4571-143689057511_thumb.jpg

Edited by Penglii
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That TGP is doing better there than your vert is on the road in the salt.

 

Been to afraid to drive it in the snow. Its been sitting in the garage. Haven't driven it since last week thursday! :D

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ha, as much fun as it is to drive an already traction limited vehicle on slick pavement, it's smarter to leave it nice and safe.

 

WORD

... the already plenty abused blue OBD 1.5 GP sedan plucked from the ghetto of Milwaukee is more than happy to take the abuse of winter driving while the TGP rests safe and sound under the blanket of white. :)

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wow. guess Im lucky its not so bad here. just lots of rain so still daily driving mine. managed to out traction a SGT? mustang cobra up a hill and beat him in a couple times in a row during some stoplight scraps in the rain with the tires spinning. the tune I got is working really good with these injectors. I am glad it finally has something that I can consider a starting point and take a break for a while and just drive it and enjoy it with some decent power levels.

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Yeah... I'm looking forward to spring where I can get working towards a solid base tune.

Even just nailing the idle will make me super happy when I get that far.

 

It's tempting to just go ahead and contact Turbo-V and arrange to buy the same tune you are currently using... but I'll save that as a fallback plan if I cannot make any progress on my own.

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its cool that now all you have to do is have the BIN sent to you through an email, burn it-and drive down the road.

 

and I plan on taking my copy and fine tuning the new motor for the changes next spring. since my new motor is going to be flowing way more air through it. I hope to come up on some knowledge by the time its done as well. learning how to tune would be pretty sick.

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its cool that now all you have to do is have the BIN sent to you through an email, burn it-and drive down the road.

 

Yes, that is very cool... because I'm sure that once I get a few log/tune cyles into the process, it will be useful to be able to post my BIN and my datalogs here on the forum so that smarter people than I can point out anything that my newb self might overlook or misinterpret or flat out screw up. LOL

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Aha... the power of positive thinking strikes again!!

I'll be happier than a pig in shit if I can get idle and general drivability tuned properly... and here Robert comes in making plans for how I'm gonna screw up tuning WOT. :dance:

 

Up next... a lesson in how to shoot for the moon by aiming at the ground. The secret? A really big gun! :lol:

Edited by Penglii
forgot some words.
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well, think of this: what happens to temperatures in the combustion chamber when fuel is either added or taken away? when you add fuel, you will generally cool down the combustion chamber while raising temps in the exhaust manifolds, and the reverse is true when you take fuel away, it heats up the chamber, but cools down the exhaust manifolds and everything after it.

 

now, if the pistons or heads get too hot, you get total engine failure, due to either massive pre-ignition/detonation, the engine seizing, blowing headgaskets, holes in pistons, or a combination of all of them. now too much fuel and you'll get to a point of "too rich to burn" and not only drop power but the engine will generally run like ass due to all of the air/fuel charge basically combusting in the exhaust.

 

so, when we demand lots of power from the engine(higher amounts of throttle), we need to richen the AFR to keep everything in check. when there is less demand for power, you can run leaner... i've gotten good results around 16.2:1 with a LH0, but any leaner and misfires start to happen.

 

14.7:1 just happens to be a stoich ratio that generally delivers the least amount of emissions, provides sufficient power until PE mode is entered and also gives decent fuel economy.

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  • 3 months later...

Finally a nice really productive day with the TGP today...

 

- Went to Autozone and got the battery recharged after it sat all winter with me forgetting to unhook it from the car.

- Burned the latest tune from Robert, includes some tweaks from his nAst1 project. potentially will help make tuning idle easier.

- Soldered in the USB cable into the ALDL wiring. Got most of the wiring for the USB and the Wideband tucked away.

- Soldered in a new Air Charge Sensor pigtail to replace the ruined old one.

- Added a couple of washers to the A/C delete pulley. No longer binds rubbing the coolant line.

- Replaced the spark plugs.

- Replaced the spark plug wires after breaking one... Borg Warner's from O'reilly's just cause I did not want to wait for RockAuto to deliver me better ones. Seems like they should be decent for the time being.

 

Ran out of sunlight so I could not do everything I wanted.

Super close to being able to fire up the engine again and finally seeing what happens. Just got to throw the battery back in and put everything back together.

With the good weather we're expecting I assume I will have a datalog or two to post tomorrow. :)

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