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BIG MAJOR HUGE PROBLEM!!!


kadoi
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  • Jeff M

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Yes, you are correct on there being a plastic/rubber-coated timing chain center piece for this engine, but it is used much less as a timing chain tensioner and more so as a timing chain damper. Since the chain is as wide as it is in this V6, and a pretty good piece for the 100K design life cycle, there is less concern from a manufacture’s standing point as to controlling chain slop/aged-stretch as much as chain wander. Good point also that if the flywheel bolts are loose, the flywheel holes could be elongated and no longer safe to use!

 

Jeff M

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thanks guys....From what i know my car has never had the timing chain changed and it has 180,000 miles so that could be the play....havent had time to try the hot screw thing been installing some stereos for my buddies. Ill let ya'll now how it works out.

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  • 4 weeks later...

well guys good news. After trying the j/b weld, the air compressor, the shop vac air compressor duo, punching it through, and praying to god, it finally came out with a tap. It made all the difference to. That crank sensor had to be the reason why my car was hesitating becuase now its an amazing car and its all i can do just to keep the tires from breaking loose :D . Wouldnt have been possible without everyones help Thanks guys.

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:fruity: :fruity: :fruity: :fruity: :fruity: :fruity: :fruity: :fruity: :fruity: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

 

 

Wow what an ordeal! Glad you got it fixed. Lots of dancing and beer and partying now!

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itll be about another week or two, becuase thats when my collar bone will be healed enough so that i can drive :evil:, we'll definately run em' tho. I think that youll win just on the fact that yours is a 5 speed :cry:, wish i had a five speed. But it'll be close becuase im running 14 lbs of boost :twisted:

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I can hit 16 before my fuel shutoff kicks in. Man you really need to read my posts. :lol: It should be a good race, I still don't think my car is running perfectly, but it should be running good enough to kick your ass. (Talking shit, setting myself up for a whoopin)

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I can hit 16 before my fuel shutoff kicks in. Man you really need to read my posts. :lol: It should be a good race, I still don't think my car is running perfectly, but it should be running good enough to kick your ass. (Talking shit, setting myself up for a whoopin)

 

please get this on video if you guys can :wink: ...we need some TGP footage, whenever I buy a vid camera, I'll get some GP/GTP/TGP footage to watch... :wink:

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Just yesterday I made a casual 0-60 sprint w/ a overboost SES light. I got it on camera, low quality, it's from the camera I bought off of Shawn. (Pentax Option 330 still digital) I was at my new house taking pics and on the way home I thought, "Hey It'll be cool to record a small run and see what this camera can make of it." No sounds, not great quality, but you get the idea. It's pretty shaky because I was holding the camera in the hand I had on the steering wheel. :lol: I don't know who hosts vids, so someone lemme know. I also have a camcorder and I just need to go buy a video capture card to start putting all the videos digital. Maybe I'll go buy that today. All I got's is time N money.

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  • 1 year later...

I know this thread is very old, but, KADOI, if you're still out there, what do you mean that it came out with a tap? Did it fall into the engine when you tapped on it with a hammer? Or do you mean it was so loose, that you tapped in it, inwards, and it actually came sliding OUT?

 

I am in the same predicament myself and the hot drywall screw idea sounds pretty good.

 

Thanks

brian

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I'm working on an 89 3.1 too. A Regal. A couple hours to drop the pan? I thought there was a bunch of stuff to disconnect, a motor to suspend from the top, mounts to disconnect, and then the subframe had to be dropped a few inches?

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When I did mine, I just dropped the pan, you can push it out from the inside. It only took a couple hours

 

First make sure to tell him what all was involved to drop the oil pan since it requires some real work, it was the last 2 times I tried it, and others here who have :shock: .

 

Second, the crank is right there in front of the crank sensor/hole and there is hardly any room to "push it out".

 

Please prove me wrong for his sake 8) , and for mine to recommend this as easy :lol:

 

Jeff M

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I'm working on an 89 3.1 too. A Regal. A couple hours to drop the pan? I thought there was a bunch of stuff to disconnect, a motor to suspend from the top, mounts to disconnect, and then the subframe had to be dropped a few inches?

 

That was the consensus so far/till today, hoping there is some new trick 8) 8)

 

Jeff M

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my automechanics instructor at school has a lumina euro 2dr with the 3.1, he said that on his, he had to replace the crank sensor, and he just broke off, and pounded it in, because he said all its gona do is sit in the oil pan collecting metal shavings as its a magnet anyways...

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I told someone to heat the hole up with a butane torch and try to back it out. I guess it worked!

I hope mine does not break off. I got 170 K on mine so I will be crossing my fingers when I back it out. I will probably heat it up for at least a minute or two first before I even start. I think you got to heat up the block and try not to heat up the sensor if possible.

 

Who said these things are cheap?!?!?

 

I just dropped 52 bucks on mine at the stealership. Is that right?

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