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TGP Driveability Issues


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I can't for the life of me figure out what is wrong with my TGP. When driving it around, it will not shift 2nd to 3rd gear at WOT, it just sits there (at 5,100 RPM on a scan gauge) and stutters like it is hitting fuel cut until you let off, then it will shift. It also feels weak on top end. On a stretch of road between 1/4-1/2 mile long, I tested it in that given distance when 100% bone stock and it reached 111 MPH in that distance. Now with all new parts and the chip, it is lucky to reach 100 in that distance.

It is also getting poor mileage.. I took it on a trip a couple days back, 130 miles, all 70 MPH on the highway and I'm only averaging 23 MPG. When this car was 100% stock and still had the original plugs and wires in it, it had no problem getting 31 MPG misfiring on the highway.

 

Little background on the car:

New transmission with 18k on it, every sensor on that engine has been replaced, new C302 Yellowtop injectors, new upper and lower intake gaskets, new turbo with 8k on it, Kenny's HotTune in it, new fuel pump and fuel filter 3 days ago. I don't understand why it is doing this, by all means it should run right.. I've always taken care of it and don't beat on my car, but this really has me baffled.

 

 

Anyone have any ideas? I've about had it with this car.

 

 

:willynilly:

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Regarding the shifting, is the TV cable adjusted correctly? Maybe you can pull the cable out a little further in order to have it shift slightly earlier. This might be better for you anyway since your motor makes all its power down low. If you've never done this before I can guide you.

 

 

For the rest, I'd be interested in seeing what the O2 is reading under WOT and how the fuel trims are. You may be out of tune. Do you still have the stock chip you could try in the meantime?

 

Let someone else with more TGP experience than me chime in too.

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Yes, adjusting the TV cable was the first thing I did, my gauges say I'm shifting at 6,500 RPM :lol: But really when I plugged in a scan gauge it always shifted at 5,100-5,200 RPM, and the TV cable is tight.

The 1-2 shift is great.

 

I tried plugging in the stock chip again last year and it runs the same, weak on top end and won't shift 2-3 on its own. I was getting quite a bit of KR on 92 octane and my Block Learn was moving around a bit.. I really don't know what that means though.

 

I checked compression on the engine last year when I put in new plugs and all were right at 160 PSI.

 

I'm running AC Delco R42LTS plugs gapped at .028".

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figure out the fuel first! then you can remove knock the correct way...

 

do you happen to have a datalog of this run?

Fuel pump, filter, and injectors are new.. it should be getting fuel.. if it isn't, I haven't the slightest clue why.

 

I don't have a datalog, I just borrowed my neighbor's scanner and drove around with it.

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figure out the fuel first! then you can remove knock the correct way...

 

do you happen to have a datalog of this run?

Fuel pump, filter, and injectors are new.. it should be getting fuel.. if it isn't, I haven't the slightest clue why.

 

I don't have a datalog, I just borrowed my neighbor's scanner and drove around with it.

 

you said block learn was moving around? thats your fuel trim, meaning if the BLMs go down, it will run rich in open loop, if its above 128 then it will run lean in open loop. when you go WOT, you go open loop, and the ECM adds the correct amount of fuel to richen the fuel mixture to whatever you have programmed. if the BLMs aren't close, it tries to compensate, but usually it doesn't do too good of a job.

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its good to see I am not the only one with demon possessed cars lately. :lol:

 

I laugh although I do not wish that nor think it's funny.

 

 

my red tgp has been studdering and losing some power in higher boost areas ever since last winter when I re-gapped the plugs to .028.

 

I also did some other stuff to it too. things I would consider preventitive maintenance, like I swapped out the x-over for a rebuilt one just because it still had a stock one on it. threw on a KS. new wires. lower mileage turbo that I had. dist gear O-ring, even though it didn't leak. things that should not change the way it runs, but ends up of course it does run different and worse.

 

all my cars have now christined out on me. the other ones are worse. at least I can drive the red one.

 

the widow is flat out scaring the shit out of me to where I don't even want to get near it right now. I think a poltergeist came out from my original TGP, which was always a lemon to me BTW. and went in the other black car when I took some parts off and swapped them over. just when I get some of the kinks worked out of it and start to get serious about fixing it up nice, it decides to smoke,leak,break parts, get scratches, etc.etc. like, it starts breaking itself all on its own! 4 or 5 things at a time! This all happened right as I got the new PMIII installed, tinted the windows, lowered it and was getting ready to put the 17s on it. oh, then to top it off colby caved in the oil pan. :willynilly:

 

the white gpse ate its VSS and blew a hole out the side of the tranny case.

 

but with the red one, the only thing that was altered before it ran like this was closing the gap all the way down from the stock .045 all the way past what Jeff M recommends at .040(where I had it and it ran fine), way past even .035, .030, down to .028?? I don't know if this could cause the issues I am having, and I know adam, kenny and everyone say it's ok. but unless I knocked something loose or did something wrong, which I am not stupid. I know I put everything back right.. and I know how TGPs are sensitive, and one little problem with a part, new parts that are already bad go on the car and throw you off for the longest time. getting bad wires from taylor and such CAN and HAVe happened. I got a shitty T-stat from autozone that threw me off recently. its like walking through a minefield lately.

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Nick, have you compared your normal driving shifts to a shift speed chart to make sure they're occuring correctly?

Yes, it seems to be perfectly fine, except for it not wanting to shift 2-3 at WOT. It did the same thing last year, and I have since done a pan drop, replaced the filter, cleaned the pan, replaced the gasket, and refilled with fresh fluid. The tranny shifts great otherwise.

 

Thanks for the help guys, any other ideas?

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I gassed it up today, used 14 gallons of fuel for 280 miles of driving, so it averaged 20 MPG for that tank.. :evil: ~130 of those miles were 70 MPH on the highway. The rest of the miles were city and the majority of my driving is just cruising at 55 MPH on local roads. That is some awful mileage. Although it did improve by 3 MPG with the new fuel pump.

Any other ideas?

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I replaced the fuel filter again last week. I also replaced the sock filter on the fuel pump when I replaced the pump last week.

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I have Kenny's Hot Tune chip. I tried swapping in the stock chip last year when it was doing the same thing and the car acts the same.

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ICM, plugs, and wires are all brand new with 1k miles on them. I didn't see any arcing when I had it running last night after I washed it. Coils should be okay, but I'm not really sure how to check them other than seeing if they arc while cranking with the wires off.

 

I would think it would throw a code for the map :dunno: There is no CEL and the vacuum lines are all connected. Everything vacuum controlled is working correctly.

 

Every sensor on this engine, other than the MAP, TPS, and IAC have been replaced.

 

O2, plugs, wires, ICM, CKP, Knock sensor, and MAT are all new, replaced 1k miles ago.

 

When standing behind the car at idle, you can hear a slight misfire every couple seconds as well.

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Ohm the coils. i don't know the correct numbers though.

 

Also, when replacing the icm, did you use dielectric grease on the icm to block mounting surface? i'm just throwing ideas out here

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Ohm the coils. i don't know the correct numbers though.

 

Also, when replacing the icm, did you use dielectric grease on the icm to block mounting surface? i'm just throwing ideas out here

Yes, I used dielelectric grease on them. I wonder what the spec is for the coils..

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mine just started doing that slight misfire thing on my red car. for no reason. the black one was too before the whole ordeal...

 

does it drive fine until you floor it, then it runs all crappy?

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