mra32 Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 My setup now is a Pioneer DEH-5000 UB with Polk audio 4x6's in the front and 6x9's in the back. I think it sounds pretty great is even gets pretty low with the 6x9s. Car-shakingly low. I do want more impressive bass though. I'm not looking for a bigass sub box or anything, i just want a noticeable increase in the bass since i've been listening to electronic a la Justice, MSTRKRFT, & Crystal Castles and the like lately. (would help in the bass essplosions in metal too). So I have no idea what equipment is good and what will get me what I'm looking for. Somebody please help me figure out what I should get. What about: -Amps -Speakers -Crossovers -Wiring -Capacitors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 do you know how to mix up fiberglass resin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Yes I can work with // have acess to fiberglass and carbon fiber. I have the skillset well beyond making/installing car audio stuff. I just dont know jack shit about whats good and what kind of setup will give me what I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Seriously, you don't need to fiberglass box to have great sound.... If your just looking for something simple, just do a good job making an MDF enclosure. I've NEVER had a wood enclosure leak. However, I do like fiberglass enclosures, when I do get around to making them. They generally take up much less room, and are a bit more visual appealing. There are a few questions to be answered: 1) Do you use your trunk (this will determine how much space you have for your amp(s), enclosure, etc...) 2) How much money are you willing to spend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 I like having trunk space. I'm not so sure I use it, but I like it being there. I used to be able to fit my bmx bike fully assembled in there. I havent done that in a while. I also dont wanna have a whole shitton of extra weight for the stuff. I'm pretty anal about wasting space, so I couldnt see myself putting a cube of a box in the trunk since it just wouldn't fit. The box is not the issue, I assume I could figure that part out on my own. I have thought about both mdf and fiberglass. Whichever route I go with the box, I'll make it fit nicely in the trunk. Cost really isnt an issue. I'd spend the money for whatever equiment I need to get the job i want done. The thing is I'm also not gonna spend the money for top of the line components since in all honesty, I'm not looking for top of the line sound. I just want a little more bass. I hate buying junky stuff, so i'd spend the little extra to get a little longevity out of the equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Well... if your looking for space, I'd probably recommend fiberglass. However, if your are crafty with wood, you can do a pretty good job not taking up space with an mdf enclosure. But, the most effective way to not waste space would be with fiberglass. If your looking for something that is pretty good quality, but won't empty the wallet, check out RE Audio. Prices are pretty good, quality was right up there with the W6V2 that I had (and, IMO, JL is overrated, especially for the money), and the output is damn nice for the little power that they do require. Now, if your looking to save space, a single 10" may do. I've made a single 10" do upper 130's dB's, but obviously your not looking for that. I'd just make the fiberglass enclosure to what mfg specs are, and be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Ok sweet, I got a good recommendation on the speaker. I guess you alluded to the manufacturer having all kinds of specs for powering the speaker that I could go by. That would include what power amp to get I assume. Anyone have any suggestions for teh amp? I guess the next question is what to do about wiring and crossovers and all that jazz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 P.S.: Slick is now my audio mentor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Well... again, all depends on what you want to do. RE Audio has several models to choose from. I mean, you can pick up there most entry level sub for $60 + shipping on ebay. But, I would atleast go to the SR which will run you about $100 + shipping, or the SE, which will be in the $150 + shipping range. Now, depending on which subwoofer you choose, you can then choose your amplifier. Also, were you planning on amplifing the interior speakers, or just leaving them alone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Just looking around ebay for a few minutes, you can also pick up a JL W3 for around $130-$150, which would also be a pretty decent choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 What I have done, with the same HU, is set the HU to run only bass to the rears, and then set the highs all to the front. Through stockers, I get pretty decent bass, but this is to my untrained ears. I'm not huge on car audio, if it sounds good to me, it flies, lol. Slick is your dude though, he knows his shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 I messed around with the settings on th HU and from what I read in the manual, i thought those settings for the bass in the rear was only if you had an amp/sub. I'll re read that. I think I have it set on that anyway. FWIW this head unit sounds much better than my old head unit, the JVC KD-5050 or something like that...but only once i messed around with the settings for 20 minutes. I like how my speakers sound now, so i dont plan on amping those, unless getting another amp and sub will make the speakers i have now sound any different. But sometimes when I really turn it loud, it sounds like the front speakers are trying to do too much and i get that like flapping noise from them. Again, is there something i can do with the settings, are my speakers fuX0reD (they are like 8 years old) , or is there another solution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 I messed around with the settings on th HU and from what I read in the manual, i thought those settings for the bass in the rear was only if you had an amp/sub. I'll re read that. I think I have it set on that anyway. FWIW this head unit sounds much better than my old head unit, the JVC KD-5050 or something like that...but only once i messed around with the settings for 20 minutes. I like how my speakers sound now, so i dont plan on amping those, unless getting another amp and sub will make the speakers i have now sound any different. But sometimes when I really turn it loud, it sounds like the front speakers are trying to do too much and i get that like flapping noise from them. Again, is there something i can do with the settings, are my speakers fuX0reD (they are like 8 years old) , or is there another solution? Use the HPF and set it to 125hz - that takes all low end out of the front speakers, that's probably what is happening, it's sending low end to the fronts and they're getting overloaded. I can turn my deck up as loud as I want with minimal distortion and noise. I also set the rear crossover to about 80hz, it's a pretty decent compromise. You can also set the rears to reverse so the bass plays out to the cabin or the trunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 x2 on RE audio as Chris said. I've got a 12" RE XXX DVC and it pounded hard. Need a new amp tho..... my old one died. Any recommendations Chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 x2 on RE audio as Chris said. I've got a 12" RE XXX DVC and it pounded hard. Need a new amp tho..... my old one died. Any recommendations Chris? Those XXX are badass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 x2 on RE audio as Chris said. I've got a 12" RE XXX DVC and it pounded hard. Need a new amp tho..... my old one died. Any recommendations Chris? How old is it? What I mean to ask is, are the power ratings still the same from yours to the new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 From what I've read I have the original version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 From what I've read I have the original version. Keeping the thread on topic, I'm going to pm you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 Bostons got more cone throw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 Bostons got more cone throw. I'm sure he's not too awful concerned about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted August 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 yeah dont confuse me with what to buy. I got a speaker recommendation and lets leave it at that. I will buy what you guys give good reviews. Not to say that I dont understand wave motion... OK so lets say I go with the RE SR 10" The specs are found here: http://www.reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_sr and ebay listing here: http://cgi.ebay.com/RE-AUDIO-SR10-10-CAR-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER-SR-10-D4-new_W0QQitemZ190246552282QQihZ009QQcategoryZ18805QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem For enclosure it says .5 optimal. I'm assuming thats square feet and that it doesnt already include the volume of the speaker itself, correct? Do I want to get myself involved with a ported box? Would someone want to summarize the pros//cons of a ported box? For the power its 300 watts rms and 600 peak. would i want a 300 or 600 watt amp? And would more powarz be better/worse/same if all other aspects of the amp were identical. I see the impedance of this amp is "dual 4 ohms" WTF is dual 4 ohms? Does it have dual coils. This should def match up to the amp's rated impedance, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 ...all it means is richer deeper sounding bass like the W-7. JL audio are way ahead of their time. they still hold worldwide patents that make them untouchable. I agree, with all the different types of technical data, if you dont know what your looking at its like mind boggling and tiresome. I get that way looking at turbo specs and engine data. I just want to get someone who knows what they are looking at and tell me what to get. but the more you look into it the better and it will become clear what you really want. it will pay off to look into things a little deeper. not everyone is worried about winning the spl competitions and guys who know about quality only use curved fiberglass sealed enclosures. You cant slam them out as fast as wood boxes but I always pick quality over quantity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted August 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 bleh thermodynamics. I did a group project on engine efficiency with a turbo. That was a nightmare, especially since I knew the most about the topic in the group, which was still not much. But not to totally disregard your statement, but the whole reason I started this thread was for people to give me suggestions for what I want. I was never too interested in audio and I doubt I will ever become interested. Frankly I'm a little surprised that I'm breaking down and getting a sub setup. I just want a little boom. I've got my learning time invested in other parts of my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 The .5 does not include subwoofer displacement. Really, if you run like a .6-.7 ft^3 box, that'd be good. The subwoofer itself displaces .14 ft^3. Myself, to make it simple, build your enclosure to have an internal volume of .75 ft^3. If your not to crazy about getting too involved, just do it sealed. It'll make it much less work and much less to worry about. Yes, the subwoofer has 2 voice coils. Each coils resistance reads out at 4 ohms. Now, you can either find an amplifier that has these specs: 150 RMS x2 @ 4 ohms- This would give each coil it's own power from the amplifier 300 RMS x1@ 2 ohm- I'm sure you know how to wire resistors to drop the load down. You would use a single output from the amplifier. Either way will work perfectly fine. However, and this is just a generally rule, the lower the resistance, the hotter the amplifier may run, and the more current draw it may have as well. I used to upsize amplifiers just to lower the current draw when I used to do this stuff for a living. No, I never made commition. But, I also didn't want the customer to have to deal with power issue's, since most people are not looking to upgrade an alternator, add a second battery, or upgrade any of the engine bay wiring. However, you do not want to undersize the amplifier. Underpowering a speaker may, and will, do more harm than overpowering the same speaker. I'll look for an amplifier tomorrow while I'm at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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