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How to lower a W-Body ( Gen 1, Gen 1.5 )


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I don't mind doing the tweaking and buying a different set of springs if need be.

To me the most important part is being able to adjust front caster, I think I can tune a lot of the W-Body understeer out with that.

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Welcome.  Is your Z34 white by chance?  Post up some pics in the new members section and tell us a little about it.   http://www.w-body.com/topic/47477-lowered-the-front-of-my-cutty/ is a good pl

My suspension is from space, custom a-arms to allow second gen spindles and stuff. A bunch of shit you probably don't want to deal with. The quality of Jarek's mounts is outstanding, just holding

Camber more than the caster. My cars also serving as DD's, I was running around -1.7 degrees in the front. On lots of non-street driven vehicles (not talking about w-bodies specifically. Nobody autocr

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6 hours ago, Amanita said:

Thanks for letting me know, Maybe I'd be better off then sticking to the leaf spring in the back.

You don't have to go coilovers all the way around. Front coilovers are a huge pain, the results are usually lacking, and the bearings and shocks tend to wear out very quickly under DD use. Rear coilovers are simpler, and work well. I've lowered and autocrossed a few 1st gens. My combination is cutting a coil off the front springs. Lowers the car. It rides better. It handles better. It uses all the factory components built to withstand the elements, so there's no hit on reliability. I slot the strut towers to get more caster and negative camber. This is the factory approved method for alignments, and it works well. The rear I run coilovers. Never run a lowering leaf. As I mentioned, coilovers work well in the rear. I've been running a 250 lb or 275 lb spring. 300 lb is a little stiff. GMPP trailing arms, fully adjustable set of 2G/3G lateral links.

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Camber more than the caster. My cars also serving as DD's, I was running around -1.7 degrees in the front. On lots of non-street driven vehicles (not talking about w-bodies specifically. Nobody autocrosses w-bodies) it's very common to see guys running negative 3 degrees. I sent the tail end around on my green GTP on more than one occasion. It definitely didn't understeer much and I'm a crappy driver.

More caster will help as well though, because it helps the car gain negative camber when the wheels are turned. It's why a lot of cars now have around 10 degrees of caster from the factory.

Edited by jman093
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When I was a kid we jacked the ass of a 1979 Lesabre way up and dropped an Olds 403 in. We also replaced a missing tooth in the grill with a gold one which was badass but not performance related of course.

We immediately noticed a substantial amount of oversteer, which is where I'm looking to caster on my GS, which I'm intending on autocrossing this year after L67/4T65E-HD, and all four coilovers incidentally.

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