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Need new tie rods?


97loudcut
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I never put a bolt or nut back on ANY of my cars without putting antisieze on it first! Cheap insurance if you EVER have to take it back out.

 

Also each time I am working in an area I spray every nut and bolt I see with PB Blaster in case I ever have to take something else in that area out!!! I have lived in Upstate NY long enough to know what a headache rusted bolts/nuts can do to your "easy replacements"

 

Ive been saying for a while now, you're not a real backyard mechanic if you haven't played with a car from the northeast. I keep a little cheater bar in my toolbox because its a needed tool here. I should go buy a southern car and clearcoat the whole damn thing, save me headaches.

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Rust does put a damper on things mechanically wise. I mean, sometimes at work I cant even get a bolt off a damn airbox.

 

I would say, on my car, if we didn't have to deal with 10yr. old rusted parts, it would have saved us ATLEAST 30 minutes.

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It must be nice to live down south where theres no rusted cars!

 

I don't know..

 

Oxidized Paint, Warped/Peeling Dash, Hot enigne temps..

 

I really like those low 60* nights when your cruising and the car is running great!

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just to inform you guyes, the ball joints and tie rods for a local auto parts store are junk. I bought a set o trw ball joints and tie rods and the boots fall apart because they are not sealed. So the grease falls right out of them. I bought a set of gm ball joints and tie rods and it cost me 370 from gm parts direct but never have to worrie about replaceing them again. The ones from the factory are sealed meaning that they dont need to be grased. As far as rust goes, I have no paint oxidation, no peeling dash and it gets around 65-70 hear and my car runs awsome at night with no rust. have fun as you will probably hear a clunk in about a year or so.

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just to inform you guyes, the ball joints and tie rods for a local auto parts store are junk. I bought a set o trw ball joints and tie rods and the boots fall apart because they are not sealed. So the grease falls right out of them.

 

aftermarkets are designed differently

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Keep grease in the aftermarket parts(TRW & Moog) and they last a long time. I do agree that the stock parts last *much* longer though, it's not uncommon to make it well past 200,000 miles on the original parts. My friend's 92 GP for example has 249,000 miles on it and the ball joints barely have any play in them.

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just to inform you guyes, the ball joints and tie rods for a local auto parts store are junk. I bought a set o trw ball joints and tie rods and the boots fall apart because they are not sealed. So the grease falls right out of them. I bought a set of gm ball joints and tie rods and it cost me 370 from gm parts direct but never have to worrie about replaceing them again. The ones from the factory are sealed meaning that they dont need to be grased. As far as rust goes, I have no paint oxidation, no peeling dash and it gets around 65-70 hear and my car runs awsome at night with no rust. have fun as you will probably hear a clunk in about a year or so.

 

Wow, $370 for ball joints and tie rods.. you could go to a shop and get it done for you for cheaper.

 

BTW, greasable tie rods, IMHO, are better seeing as you dont have to worry about the dry rotting a cracking. I just grease them every oil chainge. I went with the NAPA Premium Brand and it costs me a whopping $50 (discount of course)

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Ok heres the thing, yes maybe they will be cheaper right now and maybe they will perform just as well, but if you have to constantly re grease the joints then they are junk. If i brought it to gm they would have charged me around 800 dollars. The grease that they use in the gm ones is a moly based grease if you have ever opened up one they are white grease not black. That type of grease never needs attention. So yes they will work and yes they are cheaper but will they last as long, will they give you more of a headache later on down the road, are they really worth it. You let me know, as I am going to be bringing my trw's back to discount for a full refund of about 140 for tie rods and ball joints

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Ok heres the thing, yes maybe they will be cheaper right now and maybe they will perform just as well, but if you have to constantly re grease the joints then they are junk.

 

you are wrong sir.

 

Different design, and for anyone who has owned a truck, muscle car, classic car or rod, greasing balljoints/tie rods/pitman arms are a part of any oil change. The aftermarkets are all greaseable because they outlast sealed boots in the long run if you dont neglect them IMO. Your stock balljoints have zerk fittings, GM was cheap with not doing it to the tie rod ends, again, imo.

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Ok heres the thing, yes maybe they will be cheaper right now and maybe they will perform just as well, but if you have to constantly re grease the joints then they are junk.

 

you are wrong sir.

 

Different design, and for anyone who has owned a truck, muscle car, classic car or rod, greasing balljoints/tie rods/pitman arms are a part of any oil change. The aftermarkets are all greaseable because they outlast sealed boots in the long run if you dont neglect them IMO. Your stock balljoints have zerk fittings, GM was cheap with not doing it to the tie rod ends, again, imo.

 

Thank you, exactly what I was thinking..

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Ok heres the thing, yes maybe they will be cheaper right now and maybe they will perform just as well, but if you have to constantly re grease the joints then they are junk. If i brought it to gm they would have charged me around 800 dollars. The grease that they use in the gm ones is a moly based grease if you have ever opened up one they are white grease not black. That type of grease never needs attention. So yes they will work and yes they are cheaper but will they last as long, will they give you more of a headache later on down the road, are they really worth it. You let me know, as I am going to be bringing my trw's back to discount for a full refund of about 140 for tie rods and ball joints

 

You can buy moly based grease anywhere. Try again.

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