Jump to content

amp remote wire factory head unit?


Jcrow
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am installing an amp tonight in a 2000 buick century. I need a place to connect the amp remote wire. I dont want a toggle switch. I am thinking I can tap a fuse that is switched with the ignition? Does this sound good?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the Century's HU have the "Blue Plug" (32-pin connector that's, naturally, blue in color) ? Look for a dark blue wire in the harness (it's the remote for the power antenna) and tap into that for the amp's remote. It's possible that the car could be without that wire in the harness due to the newer GM's having their antennas "printed" on the back window. See if the wire's there first, and if not, post back. I have the pinouts for the Blue Plug harness somewhere, but it'll take me a while to dig for it :wink: .

 

If the car has an aftermarket HU, it should have a blue wire labeled "antenna" or "remote" that you're supposed to tie the amp's remote turn-on wire into.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd just tap into something hot in run. Problem with tapping into an remote antenna wire is that alot of newer CD players dont put the antenna up unless you are in radio mode ( my Aurora didn't )...which means the amp wont come on when you play a tape/CD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's a "Blue Plug" Buick radio, then it will raise the antenna regardless of what mode the radio is in (my Regal had a "Blue Plug" HU stock and it operated in that manner.)

 

The problem with running the remote wire to a "switched ignition" circuit is that the amp will remain on if you switch the stereo off. If you do go that route, it's best to run the remote wire through a switch...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah just think about what is on in your car only when it is running. Power Windows for example. All you need to do is go to the fuse box, find the fuse the windows run on, pull it, wrap the wire around one of the ends on the fuse and pop it back in. Try to use a thin gage wire so you don't actually prevent the fuse from going back into the holder. Doesn't get much more ghetto than that. well, except for using a speaker wire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha, my remote wire is ghetto. I just spliced it into one of the speaker wires and seems to work fine :dunno:

 

:shock: You still having that ground problem, with the humming or something? Could that possibly be the problem??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha, my remote wire is ghetto. I just spliced it into one of the speaker wires and seems to work fine :dunno:

 

:shock: You still having that ground problem, with the humming or something? Could that possibly be the problem??

 

Yes I'm still having that problem. I have no idea whether that could be the problem or not....could be??

 

I have almost eliminated the problem by turning down the gains on the amp though....it is still there, but "just" so until I feel more up to it I leave it at that lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jeff, I'd definataly redo that remote wire!!

 

As for doing the remote line on a factory deck, tap it into the switched line coming out of the back of the deck. It's not that hard to find, if you have the correct tools, or even accessability to a few certain websites through work :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...