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better gas mileage


MonteC
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i usually go with the windows down if i'm just going 55-60. over that i turn on the ac/dc. hard as hell to talk or listen to the radio going down the interstate with the windows down.

 

exhaust is always a good option though. i had a Y added right in front of the rear axle with some 2.5" stainless and it was only $250. better MPG and sounds better than a lot of cars i hear.

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Using the AC instead of having the windows rolled down.

 

Should be vice versa; the compressor puts drag on the engine reducing mileage.

 

anyone see the myth busters episode with that issue? i did. they had two ford explorers both with 5 gallons of gas in them. took them too a track. one windows down, other with AC on. started driving cruising at 40 the whole time. the ford explorer with windows down went an extra 30 laps than the one that had the AC on.

 

in my GTP, when i had it loaded down coming home from the military, i got 19 mpg with the AC on. AC off is more feel efficient in my eyes. atleast on the 3.4 it is.

 

That's the problem... they were doing it at 40mph... The real aero drag doesn't start to happen until 65-70mph... Do the same test at real highway speeds and the results will be different...

 

Mike

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In my saturn, I drive with windows/sunroof closed and A/C off and I drop it into neutral about half a mile before a stop sign and coast to it. And, when driving in a 55 zone, I get it into OD and keep it at like 45. It really pisses people behind me off but when I don't have any money for gas and won't for the next week it works for me... screw them. Keep in mind I only drive like that when I have absolutely NO gas money... I'm not always a grandpa driver :lol: I can squeeze about 37 - 38 mpg out of it.

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The whole idea of throwing it into neutral while decelerating might not be the greatest idea, to wit:

 

When the engine is 'motored' (ie: driven by the inertia transmitted through the transmission back into the engine), the fuel supply is cut off, and the revs are kept high just from rotational energy being fed back from the wheels into the transmission and into the engine itself.

 

When you put the engine into neutral and coast, the fuel supply must remain on, in order to keep the engine spinning.

 

So coasting to a stop actually uses more fuel than leaving it in gear and taking your foot off the pedal. Not to mention less brake wear if you manage it properly.

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The whole idea of throwing it into neutral while decelerating might not be the greatest idea, to wit:

 

When the engine is 'motored' (ie: driven by the inertia transmitted through the transmission back into the engine), the fuel supply is cut off, and the revs are kept high just from rotational energy being fed back from the wheels into the transmission and into the engine itself.

 

When you put the engine into neutral and coast, the fuel supply must remain on, in order to keep the engine spinning.

 

So coasting to a stop actually uses more fuel than leaving it in gear and taking your foot off the pedal. Not to mention less brake wear if you manage it properly.

 

+1

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+1

 

Hey....this ain't slashdot...we don't 'mod' parents around here...ha.

 

But wow...if you are really taht worried about gas milage, may I recommend a motorcycle for the summer months or even a moped?

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+1

 

Hey....this ain't slashdot...we don't 'mod' parents around here...ha.

 

But wow...if you are really taht worried about gas milage, may I recommend a motorcycle for the summer months or even a moped?

 

FWIW, I do my own work and gas still has to be $2.30/gallon to be cheaper to ride than drive... The difference between 25mpg and 45mpg isn't enough to offset the tires, chains, plugs, oil changes, etc that happen more frequently on a bike...

 

Bike tires: Cost $230/set + $60 to mount them, but I spoon them myself.

Bike tires: Last: 10,000 miles IF you have sport-touring rubber and aren't doing wheelies and drag racing and shit... 3000 miles if you're lucky on REAL sport rubber riding hard

 

Chain and sprockets: Cost: $200, and lasts 20,000 miles if you keep it lubed, but you don't always have to buy sprockets with the chain... chains are $130 by themselves... $150 labor

 

SPark Plugs, Iriduim: $45, replace every 12000 miles, $200 labor

 

Oil change: M-cycle oil is about double the cost of car oil, and decent cycle filters are $10-$15 each, $60 labor

 

Air filters: Stock, $30-$45 each, every 12k miles, or K&N drop-in that you have to clean every 8k miles is $50 and probably $75 labor to install

 

Valve adjustments: $300 labor every 16k miles, depending on the bike

 

 

You get the picture by now I guess... I would be FUKKED if I didn't do these things by myself... you can save a BUNCH on the labor though if you have them do several things at once, but I'm not going to pay somebody who knows less than me and doesn't own the bike he's working on to do things that I can do myself...

 

Mike

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I usually try to drive like an octogenarian to save gas, but then I get so fed up with going slow and taking it easy that once in a while I find a nice stretch of road and stand on the loud pedal. Totally negates the previous day's worth of mileage.

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I usually try to drive like an octogenarian to save gas, but then I get so fed up with going slow and taking it easy that once in a while I find a nice stretch of road and stand on the loud pedal. Totally negates the previous day's worth of mileage.

 

I do the same! :lol:

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I usually try to drive like an octogenarian to save gas, but then I get so fed up with going slow and taking it easy that once in a while I find a nice stretch of road and stand on the loud pedal. Totally negates the previous day's worth of mileage.

 

I do the same! :lol:

 

me three, but I don't drive like a snail enough...I'm trying to drive like my mother, but its VERY TOUGH!

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I acellerate quickly and then drive a constant speed...makes a huge difference. In my experience the 3100 gets best gas mileage between 60 and 65 mph where i have pulled down nearly 35 miles per gallon.

 

My car hits 4500 rpm every time i drive it and i rarely ever get below 25 miles per gallon, even when driving on back roads. As long as the 3100 doesn't get lugged (like it does at 45 in OD with teh converter locked) it gets good gas mileage...i can cruise at 80mph all day long and still get 30mpg

 

I run 5w30 pennzoil, clean fuel filter, fuel injector cleaner every 6 months, check my air filter often. My sister drives a litte differently than me but still gets bitchin' gas mileage.

 

Now our 3.4 DOHC Vert...well it doesn't do so well because i know when i drive it i like hitting the loud pedal...6500rpm is so addicting :lol:

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ok guys... whoever can figure this out can answer....I got 337 miles out of a full tank...I'm sure I could have sucked a few more out of her, but I don't like to put that much strain on my fuel pump. 2002 Grand Prix GT

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ok guys... whoever can figure this out can answer....I got 337 miles out of a full tank...I'm sure I could have sucked a few more out of her, but I don't like to put that much strain on my fuel pump. 2002 Grand Prix GT
Bout what I average. Around 27-28mpg.
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ok guys... whoever can figure this out can answer....I got 337 miles out of a full tank...I'm sure I could have sucked a few more out of her, but I don't like to put that much strain on my fuel pump. 2002 Grand Prix GT
Bout what I average. Around 27-28mpg.

 

that makes sense since 160 miles of the 337 were country driving...I guess everything checks out "OK" for the Prix :D

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I hate to resurrect an old thread, but this is a simple question that does not require its own thread:

 

How often should one be changing the fuel filter anyway, and how hard is it to change out?

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