GTPrix Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 I have a 600 watt amp for my interior speakers. I recently hooked the amp back up again after mesing with my sending unit (acess through the trunk) and now I am getting a whine from the speakers that increases as engine RPM does. What is the fix??? Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 Sounds like a ground loop problem. The sound you hear is the alternators output. I fixed mine by buying a cheap ground loop isolator from Wal Mart's car audio department. If you want to fix it right, check all of your connections, and make sure the amp is well grounded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 The RCAs have to be ran on the opposite side of the car from the power cables. The current is not in the positive cable, it is a field around the cable and will bleed into and distort the signal even if the rca is sheilded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTPrix Posted July 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 The RCA's and power wire are ran on opposite sides of the vehicle. What is this ground loop isolator, and is this a good fix? Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 a ground loop isolator plugs in line with the RCAs and gets rid of that whinning sound. It worked on my Beretta, so you should see similar results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 I used those on my van. Didn't work. Getting better RCAs did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 Make sure you have a good ground for your amp. I always ground mine to the closest strut tower in the trunk. Sand off the paint around your ground point so you have a clean connection. Also, make sure your ground lines aren't longer than 18". Checking out your grounds and redoing them is free, check those before you buy a GLI (Ground loop isolator). It also may not hurt to check your grounds under the hood also, making sure they are clean, rust-free and making a good connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 RCA filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 1, 2005 Report Share Posted August 1, 2005 You cant use cheap RCAs for anything over 3 ft. Plan on spending about $30 or so. Walmart has good ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTPrix Posted August 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2005 I have good RCA's, they are the Zero Noise series of whatever brand I forget, purple insulation, they are pretty thick. I think I need to check out the grounds. Thanks all. Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 1, 2005 Report Share Posted August 1, 2005 If you already have decent RCAs on oppposite sides, I would reground the amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 1, 2005 Report Share Posted August 1, 2005 Iced Purple, those are the ones at Walmart. Yea those are all right. I used them in the van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trenton Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 Haha, I bought my rca off ebay they are a little better than home rcas I ran them with my power wire and speaker wire. np here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalsleeper Posted October 15, 2005 Report Share Posted October 15, 2005 buddy just move ur RCA's away from your power wire, that'll fix your problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 15, 2005 Report Share Posted October 15, 2005 I think having a bad ground will make them whine even if they are on the other side of the car though. Having them together only makes it worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 I know you said your RCAs are ran on the opposite side of the car as your power wire, but what about your speaker wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBuiltMine-o1oo Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 ground ground ground! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GranSport Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 There are a lot of reasons for getting a whine through your speakers but, the most common culprit is a bad ground. I always recommend using a good grounding point under the hood and then running a distribution block to the rear. That way you know that all your equipment is grounded the same. Some places sand the paint and ground to the body but you will still pick up some ambient noise. If you run your power cable on the same side as your RCA and speaker wires, it will only increase the problem. Your power line puts out a magnetic field that will be picked up by either your RCA or speaker wires unless you have shielded power lines. You'll hear it through your speakers, especially when your head unit is at lower levels. If your power and speaker wires are on opposite sides of the vehicle...RECHECK YOUR GROUND!! With a proper ground, I've never had to use any sort of filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 I always recommend using a good grounding point under the hood and then running a distribution block to the rear. That way you know that all your equipment is grounded the same. . Only problem with that is your amp ground wire can only be 18 inches long. And it has to go directly to the frame. Not under the hood, too long Sanding down the paint is a good idea, who told you that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GranSport Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 I always recommend using a good grounding point under the hood and then running a distribution block to the rear. That way you know that all your equipment is grounded the same. . Only problem with that is your amp ground wire can only be 18 inches long. And it has to go directly to the frame. Not under the hood, too long Sanding down the paint is a good idea, who told you that? Hmmm...18 inches long? That's only a foot and a half of wire. If I went by that, I'd barely have enough wire to ground most of my equipment. I do understand that the shorter the wire the better but I've never had a problem running a longer ground wire. As for sanding down the paint, I guess I should say sanding down the paint on the body. I agree that the ground should be to the frame and bare contact so...sanding is a given. I've never liked using the body for a ground personally. Have always found the frame to be a much better choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 A w-body is a Uni body car there is no frame on these cars except for the sub frame which isn't a very good ground..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 You gotta go thru the trunk floor, and unbolt an exhaust bracket and pinch a gold ring terminal in between the bracket and the main FRAME, not the sub frame or the BODY. Sorry bout the caps lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GranSport Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 You gotta go thru the trunk floor, and unbolt an exhaust bracket and pinch a gold ring terminal in between the bracket and the main FRAME, not the sub frame or the BODY. Sorry bout the caps lock. Ya know...I've never really thought about that. Do you usually go through any place in particular to do that? I'm sure that's a silly question but I can't, for the life of me think an existing hole in my trunk that leads downward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 A w-body is a Uni body car there is no frame on these cars except for the sub frame which isn't a very good ground..... You called it a sub- WHAT? It can't be called a sub-frame without it being UNDER a frame. You gotta take off the back tire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 You gotta go thru the trunk floor, and unbolt an exhaust bracket and pinch a gold ring terminal in between the bracket and the main FRAME, not the sub frame or the BODY. Sorry bout the caps lock. Ya know...I've never really thought about that. Do you usually go through any place in particular to do that? I'm sure that's a silly question but I can't, for the life of me think an existing hole in my trunk that leads downward. Drill down on the right side of the trunk floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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