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95 Gp no keys.


95GPsedan
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Hey everyone. I just bought a 95 sedan grand prix from a tow yard. Well the dont have the chiped key for it. How can I bypass Vats with out the old keys?

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Yes you can. A member on here called DiscoStudd (I think) has a write-up on the bypass procedure, it included tearing into the steering coloumn a bit if I recall correctly and installing a resistor of sorts...but that is from my glance at it several months ago.

 

Send him a Private Message and he'll give you the link if he doesn't chime in in this thread

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Thanks for the plug, 90!

 

Well the way around that is to go to the dealership and have them cut you a key from the VIN number (you'll have to show proof of ownership) and hopefully the locks were never changed out.

 

If that's not financially feasible (the key costs $25 alone just to duplicate, and the d-ship charges you another fee just to pull up the VIN/key code info) you could replicate all 15 of the VATS "chips" like I describe in my write-up and try out each value individually. Then again you'd still have to replace the ignition lock cylinder, so unless you're willing to tear your steering column apart, taking the VIN to the dealer and having a key made that way seems to be the cheapest/easiest route from where you stand.

 

If you have the key(s) made off the VIN at the dealer and they don't work, then post back and I'll help you through tearing your column apart (if you're willing to do so...)

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just a thought, again I love 2 rig things up, if the key you have will turn on the ignition, then could you theorticlly hit the starter solinoid with a screw driver (positive to start posts) and have the car start? if so, you can run a switched 12 volt to inside the cab to start the car.

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I have a key to turn the ignition but it does not have the chip. If I buy all 15 resistors how long between each do i have to wait.
IIRC, it's somewhere between 3 to 10 minutes...
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A friend of mine has a 91 drop camaro, when he lost his keys his step dad got it started with a un chiped spare key without any resistors anyone have an idea what he may have done?

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I don't believe the F-Bodies got the VATS system until 93, but I could be wrong. If I had to guess, I'd say that he had a custom programmed PROM chip installed in the ECM that eliminated the VATS altogether...

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Or you could try something like this:

 

(link removed at website's request)

 

It's made for remote starters, but should work for what you are doing. It just bypasses the VATs system.

Edited by LukeZ34
removed website link at their request.
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The VATS system module just puts out a 30hz square wave (VATS II is 50hz or visa-versa) ground pulsed signal to a dark blue or dk green wire at the ECM while cranking....

for less than 20$ at radioshack you can buy the 555 chip and some other parts and wire it up this module only makes this signal during cranking the ECM looks for it and will enable inj pulse when detected if it does not see the pulses it will shut off inj pulse after you stop cranking

 

This setup is exactly what i made to get rid of the VATS for the rear 3800 in the twin engine 442 (I even used the orig vats box/connector so AL can unplug it and take it with him and no one can start the rear engine :evil: ) I wired the power to the starter sol wire and the ground to the chassis and the signal wire went to the DK blue wire that the orig VATS module sent the signal to the ECM...

 

Here let me check the diagrams for a 95 GP sedan (I will check both engine's-in the future...details....details, details! lol j/k)

will post back fer ya...

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OK the Theft deturent module is behind the right side of the instrument panel it has a 16 terminal conector (or two 8 pin) but has only 8 wires are going into it

3 pink (the two on the B connector go to the key resister on a car W/SEO on a car without SEO those two wires will be ppl/white and white/blk) the other is a power (bulb test, run, start A connector/terminal) and an orange is the constant hot

grey controls the security light in the cluster/dash

black is module ground

 

yellow with a black tracer controls the starter interupt relay on the right side of the Int panel (near the module) (two yellow wires-one from the ign switch), the yellow with black tracer and a purpl wire (to starter solenoid)

to bypass this relay jumper the yellow wire at A2 (terminal) to the purple wire at C1

 

the drk Blue wire leaving the module is the bastard you want this is the wire that feeds the 30/50hz ground pulsed signal to the ECM enabling fuel inj pulse! :mrgreen:

now this wire goes to different pins of the ECM dep on eng VIN code

VIN L = B19 M=C 23 X=A14 but this is irelevant as you can just connect to this wire at the module...

 

Now fer the DIY bit to make the VATS/Passkey signal generator...

http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/passkey.html

 

THis is the exact same site i used for the generator and they have it down pat!

only i out a potentiometer where the R2 resister is (so I can hotwire both types of VATS vehicles with the module) hhmmm still need to find a 95-97 Regal for our front engine..... :wink:

 

Radioshack had everything there in stock!

so go fer it!

Hope this helps ya!

 

Regards, James

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That's an interesting "discovery" you found there, TC400SBC!!! Would you mind if I added your tutorial to my write-up? I've had people ask me how to defeat the system when the "resistor trick" doesn't work, and this would be the answer they're looking for instead of taking the car to the dealer!

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No problem.... but the diagram info is for a 95 SE w and w/o SEO....

the info worked great to fire up the rear engine on the 442...fired right up the first time (set the potentiometer to the specs for 30hz (have a disconect so it's easy to ohm) ran perfect since...and also if you get that small breadboard found at radioshack you can sodder the OEM plug (desolder it off the orig board) directly to the breadboard so you can use the OEM pigtail/wires...

 

sux tha Mitchell wont let me cut and paste otherwise it'd be SOooo easy to give ya all the diagrams...all in one place...

as it is i would have to print out each diagram and scan it in then post it even though the printer is also a scanner also it's really anoying.... :evil:

 

why replace a Prom when it's less than 20$ at radioshack and a little soldering....it's also basically the same design as the ones you can buy on ebay...they charge ya 20-30$ anyway....

 

i found that site by Googling VATS PassKey I and II

more than a couple versions of this circuit out there... :wink:

this is the one i found that worked best for Al and I (Al not being PC/electonics compatible-he's colorblind) :lol:

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Hmm you have a 95 Regal 3800? got full coverage insurance?

might disapear one morning :lol:

Are you looking for the engine only, or do you want the whole powertrain? I'm planning on swapping in an L67 powertrain (can't say exactly when though) and will have no use for my old L27/4T60-E combo afterward. It's just a thought right now, as I've gotta sort some other stuff out before I go headfirst into the swap - like convincing the wife that we have nothing better to do with $3k than dumping it into my almost 11 year old car :lol: . Looks like I need to find a second job pretty soon :lol: ...
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from the subframe to the struts... everything... :lol:

kidnap the harness and ECM too :shock:

need a 3800 Wbody setup so we can just bolt it into the front of the 94 Cutlass (442) Al like's his 6.9L car but i think 7.6L is cooler :twisted:

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So you havent added it yet? just checked...

hopefully it will help out those who wish to bypass the VATS entirely....

Naah, knowing me it'll be at least another week before I get it together :lol: .

 

How would you like to be credited, and is it cool if I just copy and paste what you wrote in your "how-to" post above?

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just cut and paste...let me know and someday i could prob scan/Fax all the relevant diagrams too ya for a library of VATS diagrams....

 

oh and credit...just say Turbocharged400sbc (James) that guy who put two engine's into a 94 Olds cutlass 442 wrote this.... :wink: :mrgreen:

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