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    94 olds vert

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  3. jiggity76

    jiggity76

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2024 in all areas

  1. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again
    4 points
  2. BradCH

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!
    3 points
  3. White93z34

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    Schurkey is almost completely right but you need a small flatblade screwdriver to wind it back in is all. My main concern is once I need one next its going to be figuring out how to rebuild one or adapt something to fit as I've had more then a few fail in my time. Just a point of interest not that this anything to do with anything but I've done more LQ1 timing belts then most people and NOT ONCE have I actually gotten oil out of a tensioner. when I serviced the belt. I always put some back in... just thought it an interesting thing to point out.
    3 points
  4. Schurkey

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    The process is well-described in the service manual. I haven't done this in probably ten years. Going from memory... Remove tensioner from the engine. There's a rubber plug on the tensioner body. You remove the rubber plug, drain the old oil out of it, then refill with fresh synthetic oil of the proper viscosity--might be 5W-30, I don't remember for sure. The plug either has a tiny hole in it, or you PUT a tiny hole in it. The tensioner plunger is wound back into the main body with a wrench. You hold the plunger in place while cramming a wire into the main body through the rubber plug which locks the plunger--otherwise it just unwinds again under spring tension. When the belt is back on, tensioner reinstalled--you pull the wire out, which releases the plunger and tensions the belt. Confirm with the actual service manual. Point is, it's not hard at all to reset the oil-filled (but not "hydraulic") tensioner.
    3 points
  5. cutlassman

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.
    2 points
  6. White93z34

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.
    2 points
  7. carkhz316

    LS4 swap begins

    Dang, its a been a spell. I'm sorry I havn't checked back in for some time. Anyway, I got the the Monte out to a few car shows last summer. I live in a rural area, so not many eyes and ears for modern cars. I was largely ignored but I don't care. The few people genuinely interested were great to talk to and showed sincere interest, so thats nice. Anyway, some pics and videos from last year. Yes, the vette covers are a cheeky joke, mostly. I figured if anyone else can do it for their LS (Vortec) swapped classic or hot rod, why can't I?
    2 points
  8. Gp2006

    New member

    Hi all. Just signed up. I’m here from GPForum where I used to get lots of good technical info. Alas the site is no more. Hope to pick up and share info as I go along. Just put my 2006 Grand Prix back on the road after several years in storage. Nothing fancy but it runs great and still looks good.
    2 points
  9. jiggity76

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    That's very kind of you! I've learned a lot due to me basically having to get so deep into both my cars restoration. It's forced me to learn how these cars are put together and I've become very good at looking for parts, doing research, etc. I'm trying for perfection but still have lots to learn and work to do. I can't forget to mention the guys who came before me. I've learned so much from them that I can't...NO ONE can do it without their knowledge and guidance. I'm just trying to pay it forward.
    2 points
  10. jiggity76

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    I just put a brand new one of those on the International. Thankfully, the area on the truck floor is super solid with factory paint still there. Of course it being an Oklahoma car is probably helping tremendously.
    2 points
  11. rich_e777

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Nice ride, Ive got a white `95 Vert thats been a project for awhile now. They`re great cars but the Verts and the DOHC engine both have unique parts no longer in production so they have to be maintained. There's several places coolant can get to leaking from, few are easy to get to. They can even get to leaking coolant from a plug inside the bellhousing. One thing Ive encountered on mine and seen on several junkyard cars is the antenna mast seal on those can go bad, leak into the trunk and rust from the inside out just over the rear wheel wheel. You might check behind ya`lls trunk liner to check every now and then.
    2 points
  12. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.
    2 points
  13. Oldsman

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Welcome. I haven't been on here very long and have only a few posts. My wife has a very similar car except hers is a 95 with only 27,000 miles. I found the thread on here about replacing the rear window weatherstrips. They are no longer available and the thread shows how to use 4th generation Camaro door weatherstrips. Excellent article. It looks like somebody has painted your brake calipers red. I did the same thing to my wife's car last year when I replaced the pads. These are really fun cars. Enjoy yours.
    2 points
  14. j_train5344

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    Wonderful info guys! Truly...thank you! I just bought a 93 olds Cutlass with 108k mi. Confirmed for sure needs a timing belt. All of your info will come in handy guaranteed. Also doing plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, and whatever else comes up in the process. Again, thank you all so much! Pics to come
    2 points
  15. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat
    2 points
  16. White93z34

    HELP!! AARRGH

    You don't "need" a scantool, necessarily, Its a 93' its not that smart in the first place. Qucik and dirty oldschool should get you pointed in the direction. These methods served me well for years. I'm saying this as someone who owns all the diagnostic equipment at this point in my life. Are the plugs fuel fouled? if they are that's a problem, New or not if they are soaked in gasoline they won't do much, pull it out if its wet and smells like gas then yeah Do you have injector pulse? One bad injector can bring the other 5 down with it. Its not uncommon for them to fail as the cars get older and older. To check it, pull the cover off the fuel rail, unplug an injector any injector. get yourself a 194 lamp unfold the leads and stuff them in the injector harness, does it flash while cranking? if it does plug the injector back in and move to another of the front 3 and repeat, this will rule out the one you just disconnected as being bad Make sure the battery is up to the task, the ECM won't run under ~9v or so. is the tachometer needle moving when you're cranking if not its an indication that the crank sensor could be bad Check fuel pressure, put a small flat blade screwdriver to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, do you get a forceful ejection of gasoline with the depression while the key is on? its probably ok pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, does fuel come out of it? if so thats a problem. if you happen to have a small hand vacuum pump pull a vacuum on the regulator if it won't hold any vacuum, thats also a problem Next lets get into the weeds a bit more, the map sensor is located behind the upper intake, is everything connected properly, if its unplugged the car won't start Coolant temp sensor is it connected, if its unplugged it thinks the coolant temp is around -40 or -50 degrees and can often lead to flooding and not starting I mean you did a heap of work to the car do a general sanity check to make sure nothing you did could have caused it. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  17. Callahanj0b

    Post rebuild electrical nonsense

    Replaced relays, vroom vroom.
    1 point
  18. Amanita

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I need to fix the hood vents on my Grand Prix but one of the problems is a couple posts have broken and I'm not entirely sure how to fix that.
    1 point
  19. Gp2006

    New member

    Thanks jiggity76. There’s so many I wish I could have held on to!
    1 point
  20. Schurkey

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    My first timing belt replacement, I did not use any of the "special tools" from the Kent-Moore kit. With all the parts removed to access the timing belt but tensioner still installed, I used a "paint pen" to mark the belt and the toothed sprockets before the old belt came off. Then I counted the number of teeth between each painted mark on the old belt, and transferred paint marks to the new belt. The new belt then went onto the engine with the paint marks on the belt exactly lined-up with the paint marks on the toothed sprockets. Install tensioner, and allow it to take up the slack. Reinstall all the rest of the stuff removed for belt access. Done. Since then, I've used the various special tools, which does make the job go faster and allow for "perfect" OEM-spec cam timing, or adjusting the intake and exhaust cams differently if a person cared, and was exceedingly careful. I'm re-using the tensioner, and re-using the corregated bushing thingies that go between sprocket and cam on the earlier engines. (Later engines use a different system, but none of my belt jobs have been on the later-version engines.)
    1 point
  21. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Jiggity76...and that's what makes you the man! For real, you honor those before you and you pay it forward. Torch red, black top on leather black interior with a stock cd player...how many were made...1 of what??? Also, I have the lug covers in a ziplock in the trunk. The dealer said they're mine and belong to the car. Silver if I recall. In that quoted pic it seems a top rib is out of line, is that normal to your knowledge??
    1 point
  22. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Swear jiggity76, between your replies/posts here and YouTube, you seem to be the authority on everything Cutlass!!! I'd love to see your cars in person!!! I imagine perfection!!!!
    1 point
  23. White93z34

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    Great, For your first time set aside a LOT of time. have you tracked down the tools to service it?
    1 point
  24. Schurkey

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    I'll accept the flat-blade vs. wrench. Truth is, I don't remember how I did it all those years ago. I have drained oil out of, and refilled the tensioners on the few belt replacements I've done--four, perhaps.
    1 point
  25. 89-W-Body-Regal

    COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR DISCONTINUED FOR 2.8L V-6 & 3.1L W-body cars

    Ok, I checked the sensor a week ago and the wiring. The sensor I got was back in July, last year. I replaced it because I was putting a new radiator in and wanted to save time. I also got a new engine installed too so I wanted to replace some sensors to put on the new motor. I needed a new ECM as well because water got into it. The shop installed everything with the new engine. The low coolant light was on. They thought maybe it was the ecm. But the ecm had no codes and wasn’t causing any drivability concerns. So they said it could just be a bad wire like you said. The shop knows I know my car better than anyone inside out because I provided the parts and found the motor myself. I checked the connector and wiring along the sensor. All clean and connector was tight and clean. I thought for the hell of it, the shop gived me my old coolant level sensor back. I put that back on and what do you know the low coolant light went out. So it had to be that nos sensor the dealer sold me. No wonder they charged me so cheap for it. These sensors nos GM are expensive. It was probably a bad sensor they had sitting on the shelf and wanted to get rid of it. I am going to have to drive the Buick and monitor it to make sure the light don’t come back on. I will let you know if it comes back on or not. I am gonna take her for a long drive.
    1 point
  26. White93z34

    4t65e awd

    Anything is possible. Just how much work are you going to have to put in is the question? Shaun and I have tossed this idea back and fourth for years now, and yeah its basically a PTO off the differential housing. That said it will be far less aggravation on an aggravating project to just start with the AWD 4t65, I mean you need the rest of the system anyhow may as well just start with getting all of it. Honestly just buy an entire donor car. You'll need it, i'm sure. also the Versatrak fluid is $33 a quart. The other question to ask is "what is the goal here" if its performance that system from what we found was far less of a "performance" oriented system and more of a "bad weather" system. you also have all the running gear out back to deal with as well as making it actually fit in a car that never had the provisions
    1 point
  27. Megavolt-380

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    1991 model year
    1 point
  28. Dark Ride

    LS4 swap begins

    Wow! I've been gone for ages and I missed this! Looking good! That's a crazy amount of work you did but it turned out really well!
    1 point
  29. 90LuminaEuro

    Larger Rear Brake Rotors(?)

    Check the hoses. I've had several 1G W-bodies, including my current '88 CS. They all had issues with the rear passenger side going through pads and the calipers seizing. My CS regularly smoked brakes. I replaced the master cylinder, calipers in the rear and did a full bleed on the system. Still locked up. Metal lines were intact and in good shape. Turns out, the hose was bad! Collapsed when pressure was taken off and the caliper would only release pressure when I opened the bleed screw. Replace all of your hoses. You can even find steel-braided ones at hawkbrakesdirect.com. just have to look up the 94 Z34.
    1 point
  30. NCTyphoonKid

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    I picked up a parts car 4 door 93 euro this morning and plan on pulling it apart and swapping its goods to mine. Picked it up super cheap since the body was a little rough but not bad. Maybe I'll have a running and driving car soon
    1 point
  31. Galaxie500XL

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    Someone had asked for my old write-up on the TCC apply issue, with no overdrive when hot. http://www.w-body.com/topic/41994-95-dohc-cutlass-p0740-no-overdrive-no-tcc-when-hot/
    1 point
  32. NCTyphoonKid

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    Unfortunately 4th gear doesn't work at all, I found this in the trans pan. I got the cradle dropped enough to where I can access the transmission stuff and get it out hopefully
    1 point
  33. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    I will be pulling my 3100 from my 96 GP soon to put in a 3500, and I was wondering where the lower engine mount is? I know the engine has to come unbolted from the tranny, and then the 2 dogbone mounts on top come off, then all lines get disconnected.... but where is that lower mount and is there anything else that has to come apart for the engine to come out? Tranny is staying in the car. Thanks.
    1 point
  34. Michael Savage

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    Milzy Moto says he can do the swap for $5000 so it is possible to make it work and rite. Can't afford $5000 so IDE do it myself. He said for that swap you have to change over most every part controlled by the PCM over. He said virtually you have to make it think it's an 06. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  35. Night Fury

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    HVAC module, radio, DIC, airbag equipment, RKE, etc etc etc
    1 point
  36. Nas Escobar

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    They're not talking about the VATS key, they're talking about Passkey 3 or whatever number it was on when the 3900 came out. The newer cars required the BCM to communicate with the PCM/ECU in order to have all systems go. If you take out that link between the PCM and the BCM then the car will be disabled. The thing with the newer systems is that the VIN gets communicated between each system, and if there's no match or if there's an issue then the security is triggered. Everything nowadays is controlled by it. Speedo, odometer, fuel pump, etc. and one small hiccup, the whole car is stranded. You may have to have the BCM and the PCM and bridge that to make it work with your 95's electronics.
    1 point
  37. Night Fury

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    3900 has exactly nothing to do with the 3800. Literally zero things in common besides the fact that they are both engines.
    1 point
  38. Michael Savage

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    Yup I know lol that's what did when I changed to the cutlass block and Transmission Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  39. Michael Savage

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    Wiring seems easy tuning isn't a big deal since it's OBD2 and I have rebuilt axles at the shop before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  40. Michael Savage

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    3900 should be an easy drop in I know it's the 3800 combined with the 3400. With a little different internal setup with the heads. I wanna go with the Gas model not the flex fuel(waaaayyyyy to much work in that) but if I build it I'm gonna make it better than factory specs like my 3100, and this time max out the valve sizes. Then after it's ready gonna do a full XADO treatment on the Engine and Tranny. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  41. Ugh, I tried searching on CPS in the search forum tool and it comes up with zero results. I can't find any old posts related to this topic. Is the search function not functioning when searching for stuff like "CPS"?
    1 point
  42. Addicted To Boost

    any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful

    You don't need the whole engine, just the upper intake and turbo specific parts.
    1 point
  43. 1QUICKHATCH

    any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful

    start by getting the maintence done on it first like, plugs/wires (delco's), fuel filter, clean the throttle body out, service the brakes so the calipers are not draging (fresh lube on the slider pins). then once that is done move on to getting more air in and out of the engine. how much are you looking to spend and are you doing the work your self?
    1 point
  44. jeremy

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    x3
    1 point
  45. Dark Ride

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    a 3800 out of a lumina LTZ would seem like an easy swap in your case, plus there is alot more aftermarket for the 3800. Plus the potential for a Turbo kit.
    1 point
  46. Crazy K

    W-body engine pull

    WHO??? LOL yeah. I have three frame swaps scheduled right now, actually!!!!!!!!
    1 point
  47. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    I have been told that everyone swaps their covers because accessories don't fit correctly on the 3500's (including the PS pump). When everything is out and in front of me, if it looks like it will work then I will use it. The cover had to come off anyways for the cam so no biggie.
    1 point
  48. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    Yeah, just unbolt the pump from the engine (3 bolts accessible thru the pulley holes) lift it up and set it aside. Don't disconnect any lines. What's different about the 3500 timing cover? I remember seeing a 3500 in a car with electric power steering, yet the mount for the hydraulic pump was still on the timing cover.
    1 point
  49. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    You'll still have an oil pressure switch there for the dummy light on the gage cluster. Once in there you won't necessarily see the bolts. With the starter out, you'll see the back face of the flexplate. You need to manually turn the engine and stop when the bolts come into view. There's 3 of them, 120 degrees apart. I rotate the engine using a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley/dampener bolt. Turn clockwise of course. I don't have a pic of this but I'll look around. Yeah I was thinking of trying one of those cams too! I saw your thread on there, I'm on that forum as "Rhedalert". I did a basic tuning method like you suggested, except I went from 3100 settings to 3400 settings. This got me closer. (I have since gone to a 3400 file anyway) I'm hoping we get a 3500 file to view (though I'm just about done with tuning, just curious how the 3500 settings are), but things tend to take a LONG time over there to get anything. I waited over 4 months from the time I purchased the PT to the time I was able to TUNE my Olds. It's tough to get the ball rolling quickly over there if you don't have a 3800, but patience is the key and it will happen.
    1 point
  50. Robby1870

    440-T4/4t60 upgrades and/or swaps with 4t60e/4t65e parts

    well, about the only thing you can do to a 4T60 from a N/A car is rebuild it with parts from a 4T60 out of a turbo grand prix. The 4T60 in the turbo grand prix is the same as in 2.8 and 3.1L N/A cars, just a lot beefier, like better valve body and torque converter for example. There is a shift kit on top of that, I think, but it can only be installed during a rebuild, from what I have heard. While you got the motor apart, get a crank from a 3.1L, cuz a 3.1L is simply a stroked 2.8L. I would get the 3.1L crank because of the torque gain you will see. The 4th gear on the 4T60 is very weak, but I dont think you'll be doin high speed runs in a dune buggy. If you rebuild the 4T60 with parts from a 4T60 out of a turbo grand prix it will hold 210-220HP. The stock trubo grand prixs had like 205HP and 225lb/ft which was limited. Just rebiuld with those parts and you should be good. Good Luck!!! Welcome to the board Robby
    1 point
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