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Got the knuckles swapped over and the GXP brakes installed. Going to tackle the e-brake next. Going with a rip-it style handle from an 04-ish J-body and a center console from an 00+ Monte. I have new rear e-brake cables from a 2G, so I'm going to need to figure out how to mate them with the Cavalier one. I know there's a thread somewhere on going to this style e-brake, but I can't find it. Anyone know where it is?

It's difficult to get a picture that shows both calipers well.

rearviewmirrorstore.com is actually my site. I was just checking on visitors for the day, and I saw someone was directed there from w-body.com. I was like.....what?! Then I came here and found this. That's a pretty rare mirror you linked to. As far as I know, they were an exclusive option in the Dodge Stratus, and as you can imagine, there's not a lot of those in the junkyards anymore. It's what I call my "grand daddy of them all" mirror, as it has pretty much every feature other than a back up screen, thus the price. You're actually pretty limited on choices if you want auto-dimming with map lights. Donnelly made them, which were even found in 2nd gen Regals, but Donnelly mirrors are garbage. The auto-dimming gel is pretty much guaranteed to break/leak at some point, and I'm guessing the gel must be acidic or something, because eventually, they start deforming/eating through the plastic housing of the mirror. I have seen this time and time again in the junkyards and in the w-body community. Have helped several GTP owners switch from their Donnelly (no map lights) to that mirror in your last pic. Very easy swap. Another option is the optional 1st gen Sebring convertible mirror. Same mirror was available in the mid-'00s Lincoln Continental and Olds Intrigue GLS, except those had a compass as well. The problem with any of those, as me and Sean have talked about numerous times on this site, is that they require a BCM to kill power to the mirror after X amount of minutes. Otherwise, those mirrors will have a continuous draw on the battery. Enough so that they could kill the battery if you don't start the car after a few days. These are the mirrors I'm talking about: https://rearviewmirrorstore.com/products/gentex-auto-dimming-mirror-with-led-map-lights https://rearviewmirrorstore.com/products/gentex-auto-dimming-mirror-with-led-map-lights-compass There IS another older option that many don't know about for auto-dimming and map lights. They were an exclusive option for the '90s Chevy Caprice and Buick Roadmaster, so they'd be period correct for your Z34. Only downfall is I believe they use the tension spring mounting instead of a torx screw. I have a few that are still sitting around. This is what they look like:

Take a photo of what you have, generally the aftermarket upper mounts are all near as close to the original design. You mentioned that the holes in the strut tower have been maligned? any portable spring compressor will be a manual item, the safe method is to take the struts to a shop & let them do the replacement on a pneumatic spring compressor that has a cage to protect the techie from danger.

Thank You Needed a win, its been awhile.

All that work and I ended up dropping and breaking that vent awhile back. Thanks to an extremely generous member here I have a replacement vent. I keep the pair inside packed in a box so I can`t break them without effort. Had an idea and went with it in securing the drip pans and screens. Using some things I had on hand I came up with some brackets that can be removed easily for cleaning or paint. I don't know if it helped or not, but I also used a small wire brush to clean out the posts and put a few drops of silicone lube in them before barely snugging up the mounting screws. Everything holds tight and secure when the hood is open and closed and looks good from the top, underneath maybe different but each side is mirrored to the other to the 1/16" with the exact same parts. It could look better with fabbed up metal stock instead, but the idea works and can be covered with some insulation in the future. It really doesnt look half bad with just the screens and pans, and Ive not even painted those yet. Seems like it could match the front grilles...

Am I the only one who thinks this is way more trouble than it's worth? I know that the first-gen rear calipers have a bad reputation, but it's not deserved in my (admittedly limited) experience. I know that on my '92 and '93 Luminas, the rear calipers haven't given me excessive trouble--at least, not more than any other calipers, and less than typical aluminum-bodied calipers. I have had them apart for cleaning and inspection; and even replaced them with "rebuilt" calipers in desperation, trying to fix a "hard pedal, poor braking power" situation a long time ago. The poor braking was due to failing vacuum power boosters on both vehicles, not the calipers/rotors/pads in front or in back.

I’ll be tackling this in a week or so. I’ll probably run no parking brake for a while. GXP rotors/calipers on impala knuckles, mounted in a 94 z34. If I remember correctly, I think I was eyeballing using a N body center console e brake setup to make it work, out of a grand am or something. I forgot the specifics.

Mission complete!! I went to the junkyard today and found three cars with that mount. 1997 and 1999 Lumina, and a 1994 Grand Prix, All of them still had engines, I was hoping to find one that someone already pulled the engine from. Turned out to not be all that difficult to remove anyway, I just jacked up the engine with the scissor jack I found in the trunk (because they wouldn't let me bring in my own scissor jack!) and unbolted it. Comparison of the original mount on bottom and the new one: Notice the two holes for the subframe bolts are differently spaced. Fortunately my subframe had an additional hole there, so it fit with no trouble at all. Dogbones unhooked, engine mounted and off the hoist, everything just "at rest". Perfectly lined up!! Thank you, mfewtrail! Now on to the next mystery, exhaust. New thread coming soon...

IT RUNS!! Someone on another forum provided me with a newer program version for my PCM with VATS disabled in their software. I flashed it, and the car finally stays running!

Where in the 98 Lumina harness is the pin location to the PCM for that circuit? your schematic doesn't display it

Another option for people searching this thread in the future is the old otc ABS Reader #3758 or 3757. The 3757 number just denotes that the tool comes with a case. There's a 3757 on ebay now for $99. They cover a lot of other obd1 vehicles as well. i have one and have used it on my TGP's and my parents 94 Regal.

For the record, a 3.1/3.4 flexplate will bolt right up to a 3.8 torque converter

Id give anything to see what gm would have done to a w-body to make it rwd. It would be so interesting.

There was another thread that stockgp had detailing his swap. He had to fab up brackets to hold the dash to the firewall (it wasn't "plug-n-play.") I remember him saying the "saginaw" (round) column wouldn't bolt up to the dash support without major modification, either. FWIW, the slope of the windshield on the 95-01 Luminas was steeper than the earlier 1G W's. I remember that due to this, the dash in my old 96 Loomie was a tad bit longer than my Regal's dash. If it were me doing the swap, I'd go with a 94-96 GP dash. It's got the proper slope to the WS, and there are probably more of those in the boneyards anyway. Another bonus of the GP dash is you can easily add the HUD and trip computer (as everyone on this forum and their grandmother have done already ) You could get the GP door panels to work with the Lumina's doors due to the GP's and older Loomies having GM's wonderful "passive restraints" in the doors...