Leaderboard

Check how hot the auxillary battery terminal gets...mine would get hot and cause voltage drops until I replaced it...previous owners thought it was just going through alternators. I had one of the zinc ones (and one with the bottom threads stripped so it was had a couple of washers for spacers and what appeared to be a Delco radio post nut as well) and replaced it with brass...common issue on the B bodies too, and it's the same process and part number for replacement. Might not apply on a 2000, though... Replacing the Auxiliary Battery Post | Page 3 | Chevy Impala SS Forum

Please do. That slight voltage sag (dimming/fan speed drop) that took place above when the AC compressor kicked in is 100% normal operation for these cars in my view, and its just a byproduct of how the charging system is programmed to function. It can happen whenever a large electrical load comes on line at low RPM, and It is definitely visible in the headlights when they are on. My 2000 Regal did this all the time, and the factory alternator and the 6 year old battery were still fully functional when I got rid of that car in early 2015.

I'm going to be honest, I don't see an issue there. It cranked just fine, and the dip sounded like the AC compressor kicking on. The slight electrical dip is likely just a product of a slight lag between a large electrical load kicking in and the duty cycle of the alternator being increased adequately to compensate.

The Monte. This was a long time ago and it's putting out less now for sure.

3.5l LZ4 with an F23 in a FWD race car. Port work, WOT-Tech VVT Delete with Big Race Cam Kit. 75mm Throttle Body, Megasquirt MS3X. All credit to Dan @ R&R Motorsports for putting this together and sharing the results.

HERE'S MY CAR AFTER ALL THE VISUAL UPGRADES

1993 3.4 DOHC in an 88 Fiero with a Getrag 282 5-speed. The graph says "Flywheel horsepower" but we set the correction factor to "1.0" which means no correction, so this is at the wheels. The 10ft-lb torque dip corresponds to a bad AFR there; I still have to tune it. Engine details: 1993 3.4 DOHC, balanced and blueprinted... Ok, more details: 91 Beretta iron flywheel (16 lbs), Sealed Power hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts, balanced rotating assembly, .030" overbore, honed with a torque plate, exhaust valve guides tightened up a bit, opened the bottom ring gaps to prevent flutter, gasket matched the lower intake manifold, custom upper intake manifold (shorter runners, direct shot from the TB to the runners), stock throttle body, stock ECM, stock injectors, stock cam timing, 3" cold air intake with K&N cone filter, 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflow cat and Spintech muffler. Pic so you can see the intake setup:

That's the one. It looks like you took care of it with your wiring upgrade though.

And it worked as designed yesterday...