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I posted this on Reddit and was told to come over here Someone is giving me their 1995 Regal GS that's been sitting for a few years after her husband passed. She's older so hard to know if her memory of timing is right. The battery is dead and the tires look deflated. It's only got ~100,000 miles on it. I'm planning on getting it towed straight to the mechanic, but also wondering if I can just replace the battery, put some air in the tire, and drive it home first or would that just cause more problems? I don't have indoor marking so the car will have to stay outside and endure the winter

Update, I ended up finding a drivers window with the part attached. The only way to get my hands on it was to offer some serious coin to a gent that was trying to sell his 95 without any luck. He ended up pulling the drivers rear window for me also; if anyone is in need. If I plan to keep my Olds, I'll probably just take his whole car for parts as he only wanted 1k for it. At the time, I didn't bother as it was over 800km's away and I didn't want to invest in the tow. FYI, it's a heck of a little job to get the glass out without damaging anything. There are a few parts that (when disassembling) are very likely to be damaged if you don't know the exact process. Even following what little info is in the Service Manuals, the interior door panel is vulnerable to breaking the little molded housings that secure the plastic plugs in place...

My uncle recently passed away unexpectedly and the only search results I could find for the special Days of Thunder 1990 Lumina model he had was a post on this forum 20 years ago asking if they actually existed. It's my understanding that the Z34 package didn't come out until 1991, so this was basically the Z34 a year early. He was the original owner, but parked it in the driveway over a decade ago and it hasn't moved since, so it is rust free but very sun damaged, especially interior, and the tires are rotted. While I am curious about the value and rarity, I'm more concerned about getting it to someone that would actually appreciate it rather than a junkyard. I posted some pictures over on Reddit and found a Lumina group on Facebook. https://www.reddit.com/r/classiccars/s/rsBQlkuYGb

Welcome to the site! Depending on how long its been sitting you could air up the tires, put a new battery in it and see what happens when you hit the key. I'd check to make sure the fluids are at least present before you do that though. Once its up and running fresh fluids all around and a through inspection would be a good idea. You could check the date codes on the tires to try and get an idea of when it was last on the road. Guessing you're in Ontario by the tag and Drive Clean sticker. So If you're going to winter drive it get it oil spray undercoated every year to keep it from dissolving. If you're not familiar that really helps a car last in the salt and rust belt. Oh one other thing, don't have too much faith in the doors in the winter. YMMMV but I found myself just not locking the doors often as I valued getting back in the dang car. If its been sitting for an extended time I'd probably get the fuel drained if the tank has to come down a new fuel pump would probably be a smart idea as well.

In all honesty….they’re worth what someone is willing to pay to own it. Actual rarity doesn’t factor in as much as overall demand for these cars is relatively low overall. I recently bought a 92 Regal GS from the original owner. Had Just a hair over 70k KM ( just under 44k miles) when purchased. Garaged its entire life and hasn’t seen winter since 95. The interior is about as close to perfect and new as you’re going to find today. I paid $8600 CAD for it. Is it worth it? To me yes. To the overall market? Maybe… I did have an appraisal done on mine, primarily for insurance value purposes. He was unable to locate another comparable Regal…but he did locate a 92 cutlass SL coupe, along with a 92 GTP coupe for comparison that had sold recently. The cutlass sold for $8600 US, and the GTP sold for 10k US. There was also a 3rd GTP coupe actively listed for $18k US. All vehicles had 40k miles on them or less. The appraised value range he gave mine was between $16-18k CAD.

@Kelly I can’t believe I’ve found this car again! I’ve known about its existence in the Calgary area for years, but it was never up for sale. How did I miss it when it changed hands?? Growing up, my dad had the regular Cutlass Supreme and always dreamed of owning the International, but he was never able to make it happen. I have such nostalgic memories of that Aqua color gleaming in the bright summer sun. You’re incredibly lucky to have this rare gem in your possession. Thank you for sharing it with the world—more people need to appreciate her! Please take good care of it. Cheers!

My sister has a 95 Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has been sitting for 20 years, garaged in the desert. We'd like to get it running again. Wondering what would be the smart steps to take before turning it over. Oil in the cylinders, things like that.

Like most people said, figure at minimum dropping the fuel tank out, inspect replace the tank if its bad. 99% chance it needs a fuel pump and fuel level sender. even if it does work not not sure I'd trust it longterm. I'd dump the coolant, replace that. Fuel injectors MIGHT be ok hard to say there. If you can I'd send those out to get tested/cleaned or just replace them or just send it and see what happens. I'd seriously consider a new waterpump as well. I'd put oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a bit, and try turning the engine over by hand first. is it a 3.1 car or 3.4 car? If its a 3.4 a timing belt would be a good idea in the short term.

You're going to need a fresh battery + a charger on hand to back up the battery, disable everything that will cause the engine to fire (fuel pump relay, ICM harness), I'd remove the serpentine belt just in case any one of the driven accessories are seized, remove the intake snorkel, pull all of the plugs (you want the engine to crank freely), dump the old crankcase oil, pour in fresh oil before cranking, remove the rad cap...anything in there? squirt some engine oil down into the cylinders, if nothng is out-of-order with the starting system now you can turn the key & crank the engine, do so continually so that you can see the oil pressure building on the oil pressure gauge. If you are satisfied you have pressure now start returning items to their proper state, make sure the air cleaner box IS clean, I'd manually spin all of the belt drive accessories to test each one to ensure they are not seized before putting the belt back on. You CAN fire the engine for a short time without the drive belt. You're going need fresh fuel as well.

HI hope I am in the right place. I am trying to help my sister get her 95 cutlass convertible up and running. It has sat in a garage in Palm Springs for about 20 years and I am looking for info on steps to take before trying to start it. I assume it turns over, but have not looked to see how I would check that. Been thinking to put some WD or Mike Marvel oil in the cylinders to soak a bit, but the rear plugs look intimidating. Any info & suggestions appreciated. I wrenched a few old SBC & 60/70 Buick V6 in jeeps, nothing as modern as this. thanks

Like the title says, I am a new member now, but I was a fairly regular member here around 15-20 years ago. My screen name at that time was Regal_GS_1989. I originally owned an 89 Regal GS coupe, a 92 Cutlass International Coupe, and finally a 2000 Regal Sedan. Life got busy, I stopped posting regularly, and the 2000 was sold off about 10 years ago for something newer and more family friendly. Time has marched on, and I am now in a position where I have the time and resources to be able to own a “weekend” vehicle. As luck, or possibly fate would have it, this beauty quite literally fell into my lap at the perfect moment… A 92 Regal GS Coupe. Black, Grey leather interior, low milage, One owner, garage kept its entire life, ordered new with every option box checked off…save for the sunroof. It’s truly worthy of the term survivor, and it’s exactly how I would have ordered one myself back in the day. Gotta say…it feels sort of strange to be back here posting again about a 1st gen coupe…but I can get used to that I am also surprised at how many screen names I still recognize as well!

Lowered the cutty and got her running on 15 psi of boost. Thinking of taking her up to brainard raceway in September and gettin some runs in

The 60 degree v6 and radwood classifieds group, rad for sale, might have people interested in it, particularly the latter.

Yeah, definitely not factory. For starters, the font on those stickers looks hideous and cheap and doesn't correlate with anything from Chevy, the Lumina OR Days of Thunder. Plus the phrase "Thunder Lumina" doesn't make sense and isn't something GM would have used, so the stickers definitely aren't "official". Secondly, as @White93z34 mentioned, that is an aftermarket body kit, not a factory Z34 kit. The front and rear bumper covers have a similar general look, but there are several differences. It looks like the fronts have little cut outs for fog lights maybe? Hard to tell from the angel you took the pics, but whatever they are, that's not something present on the Z34. On the back, there is only a single outlet for the exhaust rather than dual outlets, and the spot for the license plate is in the "normal" spot whereas it gets moved to in between the tail lights on the Z34s. The rocker panel pieces are just a side skirt on this kit whereas on the Z34s, the middle pieces would be full cladding that went up as high on the door/panels as the front and rear bumper cover pieces. As far as value, given there's nothing special about it and considering how much it would cost to restore it cosmetically and mechanically, I'd hate to say it but I don't think it's really worth anything. If it were mine, I would maybe remove the body kit and hood to see if I can scrape a few bucks out of selling those separately (the vents used to be popular for older Wranglers) and junk the rest for the most money I can get. Sorry. I know that's not what you were looking to hear.

I’ve never seen anything like that. Z34s are rare enough so this one is very very rare. It’s only worth what someone is willing to pay though. Certainly not ready for the crusher so please don’t. Roof panel is easy to renew. New dash pad, lower dash front. Rear deck probably and maybe a RESP ray on the trunk and hood. Doable. If youre not up to the challenge and want to see your uncles ride road worthy then finding a few facebook groups would be a good way to find a new owner to take care of it. Sorry about your uncle. He had a good taste in cars.

I’m gonna be installing a viper 5303v soon, and I’m just wondering what everyone’s solution is for the pk3 system, I’ve seen some different type of immobilizers, but I’m not sure which are actually good and which are just junk. Also does anyone have the wiring diagrams for some of the interior connectors that I may need to tap into for this. Along with any tips anyone may have from doing the before on the second gen stuff

I'm not aware of any online *free* source that could supply you with the schematics to be downloaded. Alldata would be the most recognized online source but one has to buy a subscription to the service. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314081709204?_skw=grand+prix+service+manuals&itmmeta=01J80R0NQYEA2W7F0QPRY834E9&hash=item4920ba8c94:g:~D4AAOSwna9iuiRv $110 US...money well spent....and you'll have them forever.

Personally I'd rather look for as many needed bottles of AC DELCO ATF Type III (H) which one can still purchase today, it IS GM's designated fluid for all older transmissions that used Dexron II or Dexron III (H).

Also, just a bit of a warning. If a trans fluid/filter change is in the books, it might be a good idea to insist that they use dexron /mercon fluid, instead of DexVI or something like Valvoline MaxLife. You can't get licensed Dexron III these days, so the Dex/Merc fluids that state they are for older GM and Ford vehicles are going to be the closest you can get. I have a 1992 Regal that is fairly low milage (currently under 72k KMs) that still had its original trans fluid in it. It was due for a change, but otherwise everything was functioning as it should. I did a pan drop, changed the filter, and re-filled with Valvoline MaxLife. Got the levels set, and everything seemed great. In short order though, I was dealing with a downshift issue into 1st. Essentially, when the vehicle went into lockup before the trans was fully warmed up, slowing down to the point where 1st would engage resulted in the trans acing as if it were in neutral. Even the increased line pressure in manual 1st. wasn't enough to engage it. You could shift to Neutral and back into Drive though, and it would act exactly as expected, so I simply worked around it and shifted into Neutral while slowing down, then back into Drive just before coming to a stop. The more I dug into the issue, the more I realized that the MaxLife was likely the cause, as older transmissions don't necessarily play nice with the much lower viscosity of MaxLife. I just recently pumped out 4.5 quarts of trans fluid and replaced it with Dex/Merc, and on the first test drive the issue was nearly eliminated. My plan now is to drive it a little bit more, then pump it out and refill again to get as much out as possible. I will be sticking with Dex/Merc from now on for this one.

Unfortunately it looks like the felpro permadry/severe duty gaskets that have been my go to are no longer made so I can't give a good opinion there. as for lower intake gaskets my preference is always the GM metal ones, though i'm sure the felpro permadry plus ones would be perfectly fine as well. exhaust manifold/header gaskets. just reuse the original steel gaskets that came on the car, those are pretty well superior to every aftermarket gasket out there.

Stock injectors will be fine. IMO go Gen v northstar and lq4 MAF when you buy the intercooler. You’ll want a tune anyways with the intercooler to make the most of it so id do it all at once!

I was watching legitstreetcars (a YouTube channel) he just bought this exact model for $3000.00 I believe. Only 18 or 20 made in that color. I think he said his has 94,000 miles

Im making popcorn as we speak!!

Plan on a fuel pump and a gas tank. New battery. Oil change. Tires. Probably won’t need much more than that. My Z sat for 10 years.

Am I the only one who thinks this is way more trouble than it's worth? I know that the first-gen rear calipers have a bad reputation, but it's not deserved in my (admittedly limited) experience. I know that on my '92 and '93 Luminas, the rear calipers haven't given me excessive trouble--at least, not more than any other calipers, and less than typical aluminum-bodied calipers. I have had them apart for cleaning and inspection; and even replaced them with "rebuilt" calipers in desperation, trying to fix a "hard pedal, poor braking power" situation a long time ago. The poor braking was due to failing vacuum power boosters on both vehicles, not the calipers/rotors/pads in front or in back.

12.2 volts means the battery is half-dead. CHARGE THE BATTERY and see what happens. A slow-charge overnight would probably be best. A "12-volt" battery when fully-charged should show 12.6--12.8 volts AFTER the battery has been off the charger for an hour or two. This somewhat depends on the battery temperature--higher temperature leads to higher voltage; freezing-cold will produce low voltage. The battery might show 13+ volts directly off the charger, but the excess is "surface charge" that will self-dissipate if left alone for awhile, or it can be removed with a 50 amp load for five or ten seconds.

I tested the battery at 12.2 when off and 14.4 when on same with the alternator.

I have not done it yet. I was going to do the center console e brake setup. Can't remember if it was A or N body, but I have the thread bookmarked.

Welp, I lubed it up, but it's not the actuator. New one does the same thing. I was hoping that's all it was and I wouldn't have to troubleshoot. Sometimes it gets the signal to lock and sometimes it doesn't. The switch is sending out the signal, but only the passenger side receives it every time. I guess it has to be in the wiring somewhere, but where? edit: put the old one back in, messed with it a little and now it works all the time. I guess it might be the BCM, then

Hello there friend! Yes, I posted pics of this car and your others awhile back when you acquired the International 5 speed sedan. Glad you made your way here. I feel bad in that I didn't guide you here myself, my bad, very sorry about that.

As we discussed in the last thread regarding how much wattage you can run on a factory system, we noticed that our factory 105 amp alternators are not capable of producing enough power to feed a JL Audio 1000.1 amplifier, with wiring and the alternator being the two key issues. To resolve the alternator issue, there are, fortunately, factory replacement options that we can embrace. Fortunately for us, GM used the same mounting points for multiple alternators . The common CS130 and CS130D used in many of our cars can be replaced with the GM CS144 (or CS-144). The CS144 amplifier comes in varieties that produce from 140 amps to 200 amps, with supposedly a 250 amp model also available. These can typically be found in larger cars and SUVs. The following link will outline the available models: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130...uv_upgrade.htm If anyone is considering running over 500W of amplifier power, you will certainly need to consider upgrading your alternator. I will be doing more research in the next few days on which cars you can pull these alternators from at a junkyard for cheap. If anyone has any particular range of models off the top of your head, please list them.

well folks my 3500 Lx9 swap into a 2000 buick century is done n runs great n very fast

So my friend of mine bought a '95 Regal with a Series 1 (TPI) with only 93 000km's wich runs like new. Is it safe to put a Series 1 Supercharger on this engine? Or does a Series II supercharger fits also? What would he need to make everything work and safe?? Thanks!

has anybody done the 3500 swap into their 3100 wbody (1st gen). I was looking at the mms website and they have a kit for everything you need to swap a 3500 in, has anybody used this and how difficult was it?

I've used a 97 lumina pcm in my 96 GP before. 2nd gear start wont work. Later it ran my LG8. Swapping a 3500 requires some custom work. Things that come to mind: * Throttle body: Downgrade to a 3400 56mm is easiest * External 7x trigger * EGR adapter/block plate * Install 3x00 timing cover for 24x * Install 3100 lower mount on oil pan * Install 3100 driver side dogbone mount * Forgo or customize passenger side mount * Use 3100 exhaust for correct downpipe or custom * Use 3100 alternator/bracket * Install 3100 power steering pump * Use 3100 harness and cut/wire the injectors and coolant temp sensor * Remove oil filter neck and screw oil filter to block * I don't recall if a 3x00 fuel rail fits under a 3500 UIM, if not use 2000+ 3x00 fuel rail with 3400 upper intake, or modify fuel system to be returnless * Install 3100 knock sensors (there's a spot for them) * Don't think the AC is interchangeable so ensure window motors are good

3400 is the easiest swap. You can run it on your 3100PCM. ?

crank trigger makes only the 7X signal that the ICM needs to make the 3X signal sent to the PCM in almost every 87ish-05ish 60V6 application. the 24X reluctors would normally be on the damper, which IIRC, is where the 7X crank trigger goes. the most foolproof option that i can think of would be to disassemble the engine, pull the crank and have the internal reluctor wheel of the 3500 removed, have a 2.8/3.1/3.4/3100/3400 one pressed on, and then run a 3100/3400 damper with the 24X reluctor in it, to give the PCM both signals it wants to see.

Hell yes. You guys are one step ahead of me. Making it all the easier to get high output alternators without having to spend $150+ will bring us all closer to better sound systems and other means of insanity. Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

So, if someone were wanting to swap an LX9 into a first gen, OBDI w-body, what all is needed to do the swap? Does it matter if it was pulled from say, an '06 G6? What would I do about motor mounts, dog bones and the lower mount? Is there an ECM/chip combination that this would run best on, without going through the trouble of swapping the whole car to OBDII?

I was hoping to find something that drops in without a ton of work, and is similar in power output to the LQ1, that's why I'm considering the LA1 and the LX9.

The 3500 had better flow from the heads up. Also a crank scraper and some oil jets on the pistons. A 3400/3500 hybrid is a popular swap too. Using a 3400 bottom and a 3500 top is will keep you from buying an external trigger and installing the 3400 crank pulley with it's 50something x sensor. Or you could do a megasquirt:thumbsup:

Well I am finally getting around to posing this!(I know its not too pertty looking yet ) I did the swap from the 3.1 back in October, I just needed some more power! its a 1998 montana van 3400 bone stock with 250,000+kms on it. The swap went well, probly a little easyer than the 3400 j-body swap due to needing less parts to get the job done! The car is a 1992 lumina with a 3spd auto, I made a temp/hack job kick down bracket to get me by for now. I welded a tab to the 3400 TB for the cable for now untill the 65mm TB gets installed! Right now the 3400 is working good, it feels like a slightly faster than stock 3.1 off the line untill it hits 3000rpm then it pulls hard till it shifts at 4700! When I first got it running I found out the the stock 3400 injectors are to big when running on the stock 3.1 ECM/tune, it was running like crap and throwing rich codes. I swapped in some small port 3100 injectors and that fixed the problem and runs great now! The other problem I am having is that I have a bad tps causing a hesitation on tip in, but that will be fixed with the larger TB! I am hoping to get it to the track at the start of next month to see what it will run before the headers, TB, ported topend! It feels like a high 15 to me I have only had one person try me from a light in a v6 accord and we where dead even till I let up around 80km and they did not want to try for round 2! any questions on the swap feel free to ask I will try to help. you can find mor pics here: http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc307/1quickhatch/3400swap_lumina/

I will try to get some more pics of the engine bay and a list of stuff that needs to be done for the swap in the next week or two!

1QUICKHATCH: Besides the 3400 engine itself, can you tell me (or send a link) a list of what is needed for the swap. I have a '90 Lumina Euro with 3.1/4T60 and considering if it's worth it to swap a 3400 in (from a '01 Alero with ~40k miles on it). Nothing is wrong with my 3.1, but the 3400 should have much better performance and maybe even slightly better fuel economy. Thanks.

the only problems i have hat with the 60* v6's is spun rod bearings, and I am more worried about the 300,000km+ trans. If I spin one now it will get a 3500! as for the tune I may just do an OBD II swap because I am looking at hp tuners for my Alero any ways! going to do an alignment, service the brakes, change the tps, change the plugs and maybe port a newer plenum to try out. Then I will head back to the track in two or three weeks!

don't be surprised when those stock pistons grenade at 6 grand!!!!! not downing your shit or anything, it is just that i have had the honor of blowing up many 3xxx motors which is why i went to the L67. and with that many miles on the engine the rod bearings won't let you torture them for to long until they give up. but the swap looks great and i hope the 3400 gives you another 250,000+kms providing you treat it like a high milage engine. how about a pic of your 76 cutty, cutlass's are bad ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and take Rob's offer for the tune and get those 3400 inj's back in that motor. the tune and inj's will deffinately improve the low end and launch times. is you lumina still obd I, or did you swap in the obd II set up. obd II will allow you to tune and use a 3400 pcm from the get go without it obd I will truly limit your options.

how do you adjust the TV cable???

I have cars with both LQ1s and L36s in them and IMHO the Lq1 is much easier to work on then the L36, if you want something that will never break just put a LH0 in it and call it golden while you cruise down the highway listening to "girls just wanna have fun"