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Which tool is that because when I’ve tried to use the strut service tool kit from the dealership that was for these cartridges according to my Buick shop manual. Here are the steps I took: let me know if i am missing anything because it’s my first time doing this and i was not successful. - First I removed the strut mounting plate with the 3 nuts. - Next I removed the top nut for the cartridge with an impact socket. The special socket and Torx socket didn’t work. I am assuming because it’s corrosive. It still came off with the impact the nut. - Then I removed the rubber strut mount bumper prying it off with a screw driver. - Next the service manual says to remove the jounce bumper (the little foam bumper)I didn’t see that on mine. That must have never been reinstalled when we had a shop done the cartilage years ago. - Next I tightened the strut extension bar onto the top of the strut cartridge where the nut goes on top of the shaft. The extension bar let me push down on the spring to compress it with the wheel on the ground. -I then removed that tool as soon as I compressed the cartridge down and it was tough because the cartridge would move side to side with that tool when I was trying to loosen it. When it came time to use that other extension bar with the closure nut socket on it to loosen the cartridge closure nut I couldn’t fit that bar down into the strut tower from the top because I had no access to fit it down into the tower hole. I think it’s because the black seat that is fastened to the top of the knuckle is covering the hole so it won’t let me access the closure nut to loosen the cartridge tool. I don’t know why but there is another dealer tool by Kent Moore to actually service the whole knuckle too. It says you need to remove the whole knuckle to use the spring compressor. In this video the guy makes it look easy. He just fits the cartridge tool down in the tower and out comes the cartridge. It wasn’t like that on my regal. So I stopped at the point where I couldn’t get the bar to fit down into the tower to remove the cartridge. PS. Thank you for the kind information about removing the oil that it’s only by choice not required to do so.

These cars are different then most with how the front suspension works. The seat sits well below where the strut nut is it won't be in your way at all. I've had them get to the point where the strut and spring wants to kick to the side when the upper mount is removed, can get sketchy. There is another tool meant to fit inside to maintain order in the event of that situation. As for the oil, keep it, remove it. really makes no difference. Listen to your heart.

Ok well I found out from another post from 2019 this is what strut I have. The seat is fastened to the top of the knuckle assembly. That is why I can’t install the tool inside down into the strut tower to remove the strut closure nut that is supposed to remove the cartridge because the seat is covering any access to fit the cartridge tool down into the strut tower. Do I need to remove the whole strut assembly? *The manual says do not service the strut unless the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. But some shops have the wall mount spring compressors for that* Seat on top of the knuckle. actual knuckle that the cartridge fits into.

Brakes maintenance = experienced personnel

Are you absolutely positive that there is not a rusted out/broken, brake line, hose or caliper? I know it has low miles but what you describe sounds way more like a break in the system then a failed master Treat it like any other master cylinder, bench bleed it, install it it has a couple extra bleeders on the master, start there and then work from the back to front. a Vacuum bleeder would make it easier.

My parents have 95 Cutlass Supreme drop top with the 3.4 V6. They drove it today and the brakes went to the floor. Car has an honest 35,000 miles on it. It seems it needs a master cylinder. Car has ABS can anyone advise me how to bleed the system? I understand doing the bench bleed of the new master, my concern is bleeding the rest of the system. Any assist you are able to offer will be greatly thanked. I will be driving 700 miles to do this so they do not attempt to drive the car to a garage while using the parking brake. Thanks in advance for any advice Brock

Pretty much SOL for a 284. They never officially sold any rebuild kits.

I have the rubber right now but a critter got into my engine bay and chewed some of it off. So I am going back with the plastic tubing. I am going to use the nylon vacuum tubing. It’s flexible and it’s by Parker. Just trying to locate them. I am not sure is our lines 1/8 and the thicker line in the middle 1/4?

I suppose if I were to go the route of a new heart *exotic* transplant the LFX from the Cadillac ATS & the 6T75 trans would be my choice of powerplant. I won't sneeze at a 320 hp na V6.

If I were to guess... the 4T65E in the V8 cars was a pretty tragic weak point so maybe he's tired of cooking those?

The 3.6 is quite an engine. The 6T70E seems to be a pretty-fair transmission, although it pisses me off that there's no serviceable filter. But giving up a V8 in a fairly-rare car to go backwards into ordinary? Re-think this.

Hello I’m messaging you to find out if I have the complete impala vehicle how much fabrication will I need to do for the swap.Mine is a 2006 Monte Ss with a 5.3 but I wanna go 3.6

^ You referring to the tension actuator?

This is a 14 year long shot… But I’m in need of those dome light switches, are you still a member of this club and do you still have any left?

Does anybody have any idea where I can purchase this part

Where can I purchase this part?

Unfortunately I'm pretty sure things have not gotten any better in the last 5 or so years. Worse at best I suppose.

Hey! Had my beautiful GTP for bit now and I am just wondering on the available for transmission rebuild kits for the MT. I know I remember seeing they were like basically impossible to get a long time ago but does anyone know of any that have been manufactured again? For the record it is the 3.4L DOHC V6 with a 5 speed, coupe, the only option it came in I believe. I would also like to learn some more about it if anyone has some random facts haha.

awesome!

A 94+ 3.4 Harmonic balancer as per rock auto, which looks similar to your aftermarket pulley. Rockauto does not list a 91-93 harmonic balancer. Most likely explains the issue you're having

My nephew and took her out last night and he's working on making content for the interwebz. A few of the better pics he took at the same place I took the convertible years ago. Unfortunately the P side rear caliper seized up and cooked the nearby rubber parts. That and most of the rear suspension is crispy from being up in Jersey so shes parked for now while the parts roll in.

Not sure on the different balancer - thats a great point. I only have 91-93 engines to compare to. I'll try to get a look at a later engine to see if there is any difference. Yeah ASP is a pretty common pulley company, or at least they were. I definitely feel like I've known of them for a long time

Wow that car is awesome!

Does the 94-97 engine use a different harmonic balancer to account for the additional crank pulley? That could explain it. I assume you're installing on a 91-93 engine? Also even all these years later I never knew ASP was a company let alone made parts for these cars.

Why sabotage the A/C, water pump, and alternator output?