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After 2 years of neglect, I finally had an opportunity to get the W cars out.  I started with the '94 Cutlass Supreme and found a no start issue.  Cranks but doesn't start.  Put the fuel pressure guage on the rail and no pressure.  I don't hear the pump when turning on the key.  I moved onto the '95 and it cranked for a while and then finally started but ran rough with a miss.  Checked all the plugs and they looked good.  Verified spark from the all the coils.  I hooked up the fuel pressure guage and it only pumps up to 22#.  Started the car and it came up to 32#.  I shut the car off and the pressure slowly bled off over the next 30 minutes to 22# and held there.  I decided to walk away and start a '92 Custom Cruiser and guess what - cranks but won't fire.  The fuel pump is not working there, either. Questions are these: 1) Is it typical for these pumps to not want to work after setting for a couple of years?  If so, is there a way to resurrect or are they toast? 2) 22# of fuel pressure appears to be about half of what it should be.  I can see that it might cause a hard to start situation.  Running at 32#, is that low enough to cause a rough running situation? 3) If I bypass the pump relay, how high should I expect the pressure to go? I don't relish dropping a bunch of fuel tanks if I don't have to.

The problem could be with the switch if the contacts have gone bad. If you have a multimeter you should be able to test it for continuity. 

Mine's still working, which is a good thing since I can't find one.:( Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement as I'm sure I'll need one at some point. In the mean time I get to try and figure out why my top will go down but not up on it's own. lol

So this is what I found and did to get my lights off. I was already 99% sure the 3rd brake light would not cause the dash lights to be on, which was true it was not the problem. So knowing the parking brake was working correctly and not causing the red brake light to come on I then removed the ABS fuse in the glove box area. This caused the red brake light to turn off after the car was started but it still turns on as it should during the start up cycle. But the ABS light was still on. I then removed the fuse under the hood for it as well as the discovered bad relay. I then took it out to run some errands and enjoy the sunshine. After a few stops the ABS light went out and I got a much better brake pedal. I was tempted to get a new relay but why bother with it past the point that I'm at now. It stops better then it did and the lights are now off for the first time since I've owned it. I'm guessing it was prob just a bad relay to begin with. Just wanted to give everyone a update. oh my 3rd brake light took 3 891 bulbs. (i went with the leds replacements)

Now that I think about it some more I SWEAR I had this same issue many years ago.  As dumb as it sounds try bleeding the brakes, start with the couple bleeders on the ABS/Master and then go to all 4 wheels.