GP1138 Posted April 15, 2004 Report Share Posted April 15, 2004 Ok, I have a new transmission axle seal to replace my leaking one. Does anybody know what I need to complete this job? I've done a balljoint replacement before, so I'm somewhat well versed in axle removal, etc. I've got the new seal sitting right next to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted April 15, 2004 Report Share Posted April 15, 2004 pulling the axle out is the hard part. it can be a little tough to pry the old axle seal out too. i have a seal puller but it doesn't help very much. when you pry the old seal out, don't worry about tearing the old seal up, just be careful not to damage the seal housing area on the transmission. after you get it out, lube the new seal's outer lip and housing area with tranny fluid and use something (like a big socket) to tap the seal back in flush. make sure you ONLY tap the seal in around the outer edge so you don't distort the seal or else it will just leak again. lube the inner lip of the seal before you reinstall the axle. it probably already has lube on it, but check to make sure. hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted April 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 I fixed it!! I basically half-assed it, just unbolted the balljoint, wedged it out, jacked up the rotor and pulled the axle out, had to buy a seal puller, (it helped more than anything I had tried in the 1/2 hour before I decided I needed it), hammered in the new seal, spent 2 hours wrestling with the aframe trying to get it low enough to reinstall the balljoint. I had to unbolt the sway bar from the aframe to get it to go low enough. After that, I jacked up the aframe, rebolted the sway bar, rebolted the balljoint, and put the wheel back on... IT DOESN'T LEAK!!! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted April 16, 2004 Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 I don't see why you had to unbolt the swaybar. I've removed my knuckle a couple of times and never unbolted the swaybar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 16, 2004 Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 I had to unbolt the sway bar on both the 88 and 89 to remove the knuckles. I tried without it, but didn't have any luck. I guess if you can bench press 300lbs, you might have enough strength to overcome the sway bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted April 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 Yeah, I definitely couldn't match the sway bar. I spent about an hour with a huge breaker bar lodged between the subframe and a-frame, standing on it and asking my sister if it was low enough for her to insert the balljoint. After hurting my fist on the side of the car out of anger, I finally grabbed a wrench and said fuck it. That grease they use on the joints sucks to get off though, and I just ran out of Orange Clean... :x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteOut Posted April 16, 2004 Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 The easiet way I've found to remove transmission/differential seals is to use a center punch around the perimeter of the seal. That should be sufficient enough to put a dent in the seal and make it possible to pry off with a pair of plyers fairly easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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